MIKE RICCETTI
  • The best of Houston dining
    • Best Values
    • Breakfast
    • Chinese
    • Cocktails
    • Fajitas
    • Hamburgers
    • The Heights
    • Italian
    • Indian / Pakistani
    • Mexican
    • Middle Eastern
    • Pizzerias
    • Sandwiches
    • Splurge-Worthy
    • Steakhouses
    • Sushi
    • Tacos
    • Tex-Mex
    • To Take Visitors
  • Musings on Houston Dining
    • The best new restaurants to open in 2023
    • Houston's Italian restaurant history
    • Restaurants open for lunch (or brunch) on Saturday
    • Restaurants open for Sunday dinner
    • Restaurants open for lunch on Monday
    • Restaurants open for dinner on Monday
    • The top 10 new restaurants of 2022
    • The top 10 new restaurants of 2021
  • The margherita pizza project
  • The martini project
  • Italian restaurant history
  • Italian & Italian-American
  • Entertaining tips
    • Booze basics
    • Styles of Cheeses
    • Handling Those Disruptive Guests
  • Wine
  • Beer
  • Cocktails and Spirits
  • Miscellaneous
  • Blog
  • The best of Houston dining
    • Best Values
    • Breakfast
    • Chinese
    • Cocktails
    • Fajitas
    • Hamburgers
    • The Heights
    • Italian
    • Indian / Pakistani
    • Mexican
    • Middle Eastern
    • Pizzerias
    • Sandwiches
    • Splurge-Worthy
    • Steakhouses
    • Sushi
    • Tacos
    • Tex-Mex
    • To Take Visitors
  • Musings on Houston Dining
    • The best new restaurants to open in 2023
    • Houston's Italian restaurant history
    • Restaurants open for lunch (or brunch) on Saturday
    • Restaurants open for Sunday dinner
    • Restaurants open for lunch on Monday
    • Restaurants open for dinner on Monday
    • The top 10 new restaurants of 2022
    • The top 10 new restaurants of 2021
  • The margherita pizza project
  • The martini project
  • Italian restaurant history
  • Italian & Italian-American
  • Entertaining tips
    • Booze basics
    • Styles of Cheeses
    • Handling Those Disruptive Guests
  • Wine
  • Beer
  • Cocktails and Spirits
  • Miscellaneous
  • Blog
MIKE RICCETTI

Mostly food and drink...

...and mostly set in Houston

When you think of red, also think of rosso

1/16/2017

0 Comments

 
When I saw Stefano Campatelli again in Houston in late January four years ago, the last time the Brunello consortium was in town, I commented to him once more that “Baby Brunello” is a terrible moniker for Rosso di Montalcino, a diminutive that immediately describes it as no more than second-best. He nodded, and replied diplomatically that there was not much that could be done about it, at least for now, as the reference has some traction among its producers. The agreeable Campatelli was the Director of the Brunello consortium, properly, the Consorzio del Brunello di Montalcino, who was in Houston for a tasting of wines from a few dozen wineries from the appellation.  The consortium has an event this Thursday, which I am looking forward to.
 
I had met Campanelli a couple of months earlier, in late November 2012. I was a guest of the consortium for a tour of several of the wineries, and a chance to taste many more of their wines on their home turf in southern Tuscany, and with the local cuisine. The namesake of the consortium and the prime reason for the visit, the estimable Brunello di Montalcino, is its star. This makes perfect sense, of course. Brunello di Montalcino is regarded along with Barolo in Piedmont as the most prestigious of Italy’s wine regions. Brunellos from Biondi-Santi, the winery that originated the style in the late 19th century, are among the most famous wines from Italy; the recent release of their 2007 Riserva at around $700 per bottle makes it about the most expensive, too. Other Brunello producers like Soldera (until a few years ago) and Valdicava draw nearly similar and continued critical acclaim from the international wine press.
 
But, it was the secondary wines, those bearing the Rosso di Montalcino designation, that were the ones that I enjoyed more frequently during that trip. I tasted many Brunellos that were going to be fantastic, but not yet. The sturdy Brunellos are often not nearly ready upon release – replete with significant tannins that carry them to a long life – and often take between five and ten years afterwards to hit their stride. The youngest of the Brunellos I really loved was from the 2004 vintage. I did enjoy several others immensely, but I liked many more of the Rossos, all of them, in fact, in large part because most of the Rossos are released ready to be consumed, or nearly so.
 
Rosso di Montalcinco was created in 1984 so that the wineries were able to earn money while their Brunellos aged the minimum of four-plus years after harvest, the longest aging requirement in all of Italy. Rossos can be released after just the following September. Similarly, 100% Sangiovese like the Brunellos, usually made with younger vines, the Rossos present another side of the grape that reaches its peak in the picturesque landscape of that part of Tuscany. Though the range of expressions varies, most Rossos are vibrant wines, showing buoyant cherry and sometimes strawberry notes typical of Sangiovese, a mild earthiness, usually gentle tannins, and a wonderful acidity. They display an easy drinkability that often belies their strength, typically between 13.5% and 14.5% alcohol these days. And, these are recognizing Italian; recognizably Tuscan. Rossos are different wines than their more structured, longer-lasting siblings. Not better, but different.
 
Rossos are much more like the top wines from the nearby Chianti appellations. Not surprising, given the similar geography, weather, aging, and makeup of the best Chiantis, which are entirely or nearly entirely Sangiovese. The famed Chiantis, too, typically garner more press than the Rossos.
 
The Rossos exhibit some of the diversity found in the Brunellos from their shared fifteen-kilometer-by-fifteen-kilometer appellation, reflective of the differences in terrain, elevation, microclimates and soils, not mention winemaking techniques. Barriques, tonneaux and large Slavonian oak botti might be employed for aging before spending a minimum six months in bottles before release. Though a single style does not exist, what each of the Rossos has in common is that it is an excellent food wine, as one might expect from Italy. Robust fare is especially well complemented with a Rosso like ragù Bolognese, or even game, according to one winemaker.
 
Though wines labeled Rosso di Montalcino can be absolutely terrific, they will, naturally, always be regarded as second-best in their own region. This means these Rossos might be easy to overlook, but it also makes many terrific values, even priced at $25 or $35. Kevin Zraly, the noted wine educator, led a couple of tastings at the Brunello event in Houston in January, 2013. He was as instructive and insightful – and infectiously energetic – as when he was a guest lecturer at the introductory undergraduate wine class I took at Cornell a couple of decades earlier. He remarked after the first one that “Rosso is one of the top ten values…a great, great wine.” Some further confirmation of what was readily apparent to me after my enjoyably heavy, nearly weeklong, consumption at the source.


Wines at dinner at Castello Romitorio near Montalcino a few years ago.
Picture
0 Comments



Leave a Reply.

    RSS Feed

    Author

    Mike Riccetti is a longtime Houston-based food writer and former editor for Zagat, and not incidentally the author of three editions of Houston Dining on the Cheap.

    Picture

    Archives

    November 2024
    October 2024
    September 2024
    August 2024
    July 2024
    June 2024
    April 2024
    March 2024
    February 2024
    January 2024
    December 2023
    November 2023
    October 2023
    September 2023
    August 2023
    July 2023
    May 2023
    April 2023
    March 2023
    February 2023
    January 2023
    December 2022
    November 2022
    October 2022
    September 2022
    August 2022
    July 2022
    June 2022
    May 2022
    April 2022
    February 2022
    January 2022
    December 2021
    November 2021
    October 2021
    September 2021
    August 2021
    July 2021
    June 2021
    May 2021
    April 2021
    March 2021
    February 2021
    January 2021
    December 2020
    November 2020
    October 2020
    September 2020
    August 2020
    July 2020
    June 2020
    May 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    January 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019
    January 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    August 2016

    Categories

    All
    Beer
    Cocktails
    Italian
    Margherita Pizzas
    Recipes
    Restaurants
    Wine

Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.