That might seem to be an odd question. If you are dining at an Italian restaurant, you’ll be eating Italian food, right? Not necessarily and not often, actually. What you’ll have will usually be much more accurately described as Italian-American or an American take on Italian food.
 
Restaurants advertising Italian fare in some fashion can be placed under one of the three broad headers, I believe: Italian-American; Americanized Italian; and simply Italian, which is much closer to what is served in Italy.
 
Italian-American easily claims the largest number of restaurants and also dishes. This is what most people think of when they think of Italian food. These restaurants serve items that come largely from the Italian-American tradition. The colors on the plate are largely red and whitish with some green: fried mozzarella, linguine in clam sauce, ravioli in a tomato sauce, cannelloni, fettuccine Alfredo, lasagna with ricotta, ground meat and tomato sauce, eggplant Parmesan, Chicken Parmesan, veal Marsala and, almost always, spaghetti and meatballs. And there is usually a lot on the plate.
 
Italian-American dishes are rooted in the big wave of Italian immigration from the 1880s until 1924. The vast majority of these people came from the Italian south where the tomato has a prominent place, and about half the dishes in the Italian-American canon originate in the Naples area like long-simmered tomato sauce, pasta and clams, and that familiar-looking lasagna. These items might have antecedents in Italy but were adapted and grew with American tastes, abundance, industrialization and pace of life. The people who were eating these dishes were Americans, as the immigrants’ offspring and descendants were, plus the generations of restaurant patrons. The preparations at these restaurants, regardless of the provenance of the recipes, are generally more robustly flavored, much heartier, and cheesier than is found in Italy. Restaurants need to serve what people want, and the menus are never static. Italian-American restaurants usually have fettuccine Alfredo and maybe penne alla vodka, dishes born after the great migration and in restaurants in Italy – to serve for tourists, actually – but have become very American in practice.
 
Here in Houston, the two original Carrabba’s and Damian’s are perfect and enjoyable examples. About a dozen years ago, I took a food writer from Italy and top Sicilian chef to Carrabba’s on Kirby to experience food from a prominent Sicilian-American restaurateur. They did not recognize the food, and frequently muttered the word “barocco,” baroque. For them, it meant extravagant and somewhat strange compared to the significantly smaller more streamlined dishes in Italy they were used to.
 
Similar to the Italian-American restaurant is the newest type, what I call Americanized Italian. These do not hew to the Italian-American traditions for the most part, and use more contemporary ideas and products from Italy, but the food is, generally, noticeably different than it is in Italy. These places are often from an experienced chef who puts their spin on Italian dishes, or a notion of Italian dishes, and might use the Italian cooking philosophy as an inspiration. There is always pasta made in house; showing off kitchen skills and providing a canvas for creativity. The quality of ingredients is usually high, and sometimes expensive. Italian descriptions are often used to portray a greater sense of authenticity or understanding, at least, even if the Italian on the menu is might be mangled. The best local instances are Potente and Ostia.
 
For me, restaurants that might be called Italian try to mimic how food is prepared in Italy, or in very capable and knowing hands express the ethos of Italy, and made with Italian products when necessary. The chef is almost always from Italy or has cooked there. They know Italy.
 
Italian food varies tremendously by locale and region, maybe more so than other cuisines. Trattoria offerings in Siena will look entirely different than one in Palermo or Verona. Here, Italian restaurants rarely try to have a regional or local focus, but will usually have a menu of appealing and somewhat familiar items from around the country. Tony May of the Gruppo Ristoranti Italiani and the landmark San Domenico in New York, one of the progenitors of alta cucina – expensive, fancy Italian food – in the U.S. told me that in Italy “the products are regional, but the cuisine is Italian.” Those Italian products were tough to get here until somewhat recently. May said in 2008 that "twenty years ago it was very difficult to reproduce regional Italian cuisine…..A chef couldn't get imported Parmigiano-Reggiano or buffalo milk mozzarella, virgin olive oil, prosciutto di Parma, or balsamic vinegar. Now, everybody can buy the finest of such ingredients, and it's made a tremendous difference in the taste of the food."
 
Even with excellent and Italian products and an informed kitchen, the way we eat in this country is different than in Italy – no primo then secondo – what customers expect is not the same, and, most importantly, restaurants need to make money. "There's no point in being strictly authentic with an empty dining room," as Lidia Bastianich quipped a few decades ago. Italian restaurants here will almost always be at least a little different than any in Italy.
 
Restaurants that can truly be called Italian include Alba, Amalfi, Da Marco and the new Bari. This Italian-ness usually comes at a cost. To taste that Italian, Italian products are necessary. Chef Renato De Pirro at Bari said about 70% of his are imported from Italy, for example. But there is also Davanti that is more casual and wallet-friendly.
 
I think that it’s fun to mention, that for any of these three broad types of restaurants, including the most Italian ones, there will nearly always be a steak on the menu. We Americans love steak.

A beautiful pasta presentation at Amalfi

I had lunch again recently, another very satisfying one, at Maderas, the vibrant, fairly stylish Mexican restaurant that opened late last year in a strip center on lowest Westheimer. The dish I ordered that day, Enchiladas Rojas, were gorgeous, not a word that’s usually used for a plate of enchiladas and accompaniments. Zigzagging stripes of white crema fresca artistically and attractively punctuated the deep garnet-colored sauce, mildly spicy from the puree featuring guajillo chiles, that covered much of the plate over and surrounding the trio of plump stuffed thin corn tortillas also topped browned bits of queso fresco that highlighted the plate. Bits of red and green from the tomatoes of pico de gallo and lettuce leaves and greens inserted in the middle of the enchilada row provided a fresh-looking contrast at one edge of the plate and separate servings of Spanish rice and charro beans in a couple of metal bowls completed the order.
 
Using many more words than I ever have describing the look of an order of enchiladas – it was about the most arresting presentation that I had seen in a while, and easily the most visually appealing plate of enchiladas I’ve ever seen.  OK, maybe that’s not too much, but it was something.
 
Most importantly, I really enjoyed the dish, which arrived quickly after ordering  Very nice, shredded chicken provided the filling and that and the house-made corn tortillas were well-complemented by the sauce and some of the spice from the adjacent pico de gallo. The two sides were tasty, too: moist, perfectly cooked Spanish rice and the soupy charro beans with garlic, onion, bacon and chorizo, not long-cooked like at many places, but nearly as delicious. The only misstep was that the big lettuce leaves under the pico de gallo were unnecessary, both taste-wide and visually> Easy to avoid, though.
 
Its philosophy, “Fresh Modern Mexican Fare”, corrected from the misspelling on its site, is accurate. The food and service are not quite as refined as at Hugo Ortega’s Mexican outposts nor nearby Cuchara and Cucharita, but the plating and flavors have been nearly spot-on in each of my several visits from enchiladas, to tacos, egg dishes during brunch time and cocktails. The place – an L-shaped space that includes a patio, necessarily underused for a while this summer –  might be easily overlooked even with the small banner, “Now Open” atop many months after opening. But if you enjoy Mexican food, you might want to give this a try.

Maderas
120 Westheimer (just west of Bagby), 77006, (713) 485-4441
maderascantina.com

Updated again on September 8, 2023 – ​A passeggiata is the traditional evening promenade in Italian towns and villages. Though Italian food and restaurants in our area might have a rather undistinguished history in national terms – especially compared to New York, Los Angeles and Chicago – a meandering, somewhat selective, chronological stroll – or passeggiata – of 100-plus of its significant or interesting particulars can be entertaining, and even informative, mainly since Houston is now a top restaurant city. This is due, in part, to substantial contributions from Italian-Americans and Italians.
 
With far fewer Italians than in other cities, it took a while for Italian restaurants to shine here. Even as late as 1982 Texas Monthly, if not the most knowledgeable or critical source concerning Italian-themed restaurants over the years, opined: “Houston was slighted when the restaurant gods passed out Italian eateries.” It’s gotten much better since then, thankfully.
 
I penned the original, much shorter, version of this for My Table magazine back in 2011 and have updated several times since then. It’s an enjoyable topic that has resonated, as Italian food in most of its guises is fun and well-loved, more so than most cuisines it seems. According to a once much-quoted truism from playwright Neil Simon, “there are two laws in the universe: the law of gravity and everyone likes Italian food.”
 
1884 – The Houston Directory published for 1884-1885 lists grocers with names like Fenno, Manno, Maretti and Roco. Alexander Bergamini – the owner of the Casino saloon at 72 Congress – is, appropriately, a New Orleans native. There is also a restaurant named Delmonico; it’s not Italian, but rather named after the famous New York establishment.
 
1890s – Veal, popular with Italians of some prosperity and also central Europeans, is a fairly common item in Houston’s many German-owned meat markets in the late 19th century, but eventually became scarce. Decades later, restaurateurs Johnny Carrabba and Frankie Mandola don’t recall ever having it at home while growing up here.
 
1905 – Carrabba’s Chicken “Bryan Texas” is the most popular dish across the entire chain, and named after Bryan, 100 miles north of Houston. An Italian emigration official, Adolfo Rossi, reported that 2,500 Sicilian immigrants were working the land there in 1905. Along with two in New Jersey, it is “perhaps the largest Italian agricultural community in the United States” according to a later government report. Initially, Sicilians from different villages settled on either sides of the Brazos River, an example of campanilismo – the extreme provincialism – of most Italians at the time.
 
1906 – There seems to be a IWW French and Italian Restaurant that opened downtown at 702 Preston, possibly the city’s first restaurant serving Italian food. The IWW had formed just a year earlier in Chicago.
 
1911 – Galveston’s oldest restaurant, Gaido’s, opens in 1911. It is named after the founding Sicilian family that still owns and operates it. It is a seafood rather than an Italian restaurant, though. Eventually replicating in Houston where a New York Times reports seventy years later in an overview of Houston for visitors that “you go to dinner at Gaido's, a seafood restaurant on South Main Street eat six different kinds of oyster dishes…and then drive virtually across the street to see the rodeo at the Astrodome.”
 
1913 – Houston has two pasta factories: Houston Macaroni Manufacturing Co. and Magnolia Macaroni Manufacturing & Co.
 
1915 – An immigrant from Sicily, Joe Grasso, pioneers the Galveston shrimping industry. Through the 1920s he sold most of it as bait as not many locals ate shrimp then.
 
1920 – Houston is home to Chinese and Japanese restaurants, but seemingly no Italian restaurant. This is when the city’s population was around 140,000.
 
1930 – Houston’s first spaghetti house – and seemingly the first full-service, fully Italian restaurant – opens, Del Monico’s.
 
1944 – Massa’s opens in downtown Houston, and is in business for over seventy years. Like Gaido’s in Galveston, it carries the name of Sicilian-American owners and is also a seafood restaurant rather than an Italian one.

1947 – Joe Matranga opens up a an intimate restaurant called the "Ding-a-Ling" on Irvington north of downtown that later changes its name to Matranga’s. The garrulous, oft-crooning owner “was a character,” remembered Johnny Carrabba. It quickly becomes the favorite Italian for most Houstonians, and carries on until 1990 known for dishes like spaghetti and meatballs and veal Parmesan served with plenty of “simmering tomato sauce and garlic – lots of garlic” that resonated with customers. Matranga once admitted to a reporter that his famous sauce contained “onion and garlic and olive oil and salt, pepper and basil” along with tomato paste and was on the stove for eight hours.
 
1948 – An inexpensive Italian restaurant called Big Humphrey’s opens on Park Place in southeast Houston. It is named after owner Joe Vitale’s professional wrestling persona. It later moves to Pearland and operated until January 2020.
 
1948 – Along with her husband Mama Ninfa – later the instigator of the nationwide fajita craze – opens a tortilla and pizza dough factory on Navigation east of downtown. Pizza dough to be used at home. The Italian dough part might not have been a surprise since her husband was an Italian-American with family roots in the Naples area and from the northeast. Much later her offspring open Laurenzo's Italian Bar and Grille that lasts just three months and Bambolino's, a drive-through slice place, one of which still remains on Westheimer.
 
1950 – The Bureau of the Census publication for 1950 lists 4,195 Italians in Houston, those who were born in Italy or who have had at least one parent born there, out of a population of almost 600,000. Forty-three cities have more Italians than Houston, led by New York (684,865), Chicago (116,595), Philadelphia (115,205), Boston (53,335), Newark (49,275), Detroit (43,580), Buffalo (36,615), Rochester, NY (34,555), Providence, RI (34,370), San Francisco (32,960), and Cleveland (32,340); the reason why there was a paucity of Italian restaurants here compared to other large cities for quite a while.

1950 – Frank Sinatra’s scandalous (i.e. adulterous) affair with Ava Gardner is confirmed for the nation in late January at Italian restaurant in Houston, Vincent’s Sorrento. Sinatra is in town for a several week gig at the grand, new Shamrock Hotel. A guest of Mayor Oscar Holcombe at the restaurant – whose proprietor is a Vallone – Sinatra accosts a photographer from the Houston Post who is about to capture the couple on film.
  
1953 – In November of that year, the Sacred Heart Society of West Little York, Roman Catholic men’s group founded by Sicilian immigrants from in and around Palermo, begins its tradition of a Thursday spaghetti lunch that is inexpensive and open to the public at its home in Whitney Hall on Airline just north of Crosstimbers. With the lunches remaining popular well into the new millennium, the meat balls and long-simmered tomato sauce follow the same recipes as when the lunches began. The fresh Italian sausage is made by Society members.

1955 – Pizza finally comes to Houston with opening of Valian’s in July. The reason it took so long is that Houston lacked a critical mass of Neapolitan immigrants that were found in New York, New Haven, Boston, Philadelphia, Trenton and Chicago, each of which had pizza for decades. There are a couple of other contenders for the first pizza place in Houston, but it was certainly Valian’s that made it popular and is remembered as the local pizza pioneer. Near the Shamrock Hotel, the owner of Valian’s – like most new owners capitalizing on the exploding taste for pizza across the country – is not Italian. Armenian-American. The restaurant also serves barbecue and fried chicken.
 
1950s – The most popular place for imported Italian specialties – and about the only one – is Trapolino Import Co. Started by Frank Trapolino, a native of Bisaquino near Corleone in western Sicily. He had previously worked at the Houston Macaroni Co.
 
1960 – Pino’s opens at 3000 Cullen near the University of Houston. It is owned by Pino Farinola from coastal Brindisi in southwestern Italy and his wife. The restaurant is an old house and seats about fifty.
 
1965 – Tony’s from Tony Vallone opens as a casual Italian restaurant, known at the time as a spaghetti house, on Sage Road near where the Galleria would be constructed in a few years. It is later described as, “a place that was fun to visit, with good food and drink, dancing….”  Within a few years it would attract the well-to-do and become much more ambitious culinarily and much more French.
 
1969 – Near the eastern edge of Westheimer in January, Michelangelo opens. Maybe somewhat exotic at first, it continued in business for over four decades later, known for its comfortable Italian-American fare and vaguely romantic setting.
 
1969 – The April 19 issue of Billboard reports, “Tony Bennett Spaghetti House…the first of the restaurants is scheduled to open in Houston in early August. Five additional units will open in the same city before the end of the year, with dozens more planned in other cities for early 1970.” At least one did open, briefly, in Town & Country where, “the food was…was very bland,” recalled a rare patron. Lasting longer is, “Benedetto’s, Texas State Hotel, 720 Fannin…a supper club that features an Italian feast, cheek-to-cheek dance music and name Vegas acts,”  run by the singer’s brother, John.
 
The songs of the popular Italian-American singers interpreting the Great American Songbook after the Second World War are a requisite part of the ambiance of Italian-themed restaurants in this country. From that group, oddly, more than Tony Bennett had ties to the city. Vic Damone lived here for years after marrying an oil heiress, and two of three of Frank Sinatra’s kids were married to Houstonians (at least for short times). Nancy Sinatra married singer Tommy Sands – who attended Lanier Junior High and then Lamar High School – in 1960. Frank Sinatra, Jr. married a Houston-area lawyer in 1998. Plus, one of Dean Martin’s very best songs is his 1965 recording of “Houston.” It might be hard to envision Dino going back to Houston, though.
 
1970 – As the city moves westward, Pino’s follows. It moves to Hilcroft and Westheimer. Its success allows it to eventually grow to four times the capacity of the original.
 
1971 – Antonio’s Flying Pizza opens in 1971 by Sicilian immigrants serving pizza and assertive Italian-American red sauce classics, and proving that this formula with competent hands in the kitchen still works well after fifty-plus years.
 
1974 – With the catchphrase, “a great Italian restaurant…with a heck of an Irish bar,” Birraporetti’s opens on West Gray near River Oaks. Though hardly the former, and more accurately the latter, it’s a fun and useful place, dishing functional, familiar Italian-American items that expands to the downtown theater district, the Galleria area, and even sunny Orange County, California – that location closes in 1998 not long after losing a $2.3 million sexual harassment lawsuit brought by two former waitresses. Birraporetti’s is still around, adjacent to the Alley Theatre and with a branch down in Friendswood. The marriage of concepts is the product of a very common marriage in Roman Catholic parishes in much of the country, of the founders, Michael Horan and Shirley Gaudino, Irish- and Italian-Americans.
 
1974 – In their November issue, Texas Monthly reports that "Tony's [is]our nomination for the city's best restaurant… [with] trout Veronique… Chauteaubriand…. Souffle" as it advertises itself as serving the "Poetry of French Food."  Vallone's heart seems to remain with the vibrant culinary verse of Naples and environs, though.

1975 – Cajoled by Houston socialite Maxine Van Dusen, Sergio Ballatori, whose family had run a restaurant in Rome between the main train station and the Trevi Fountain for four decades, moves to the Bayou City to open Ballatori’s at 4215 Leeland in November in a recently occupied bank building east of downtown. Aptly aided by his wife, five children and parents, Ballatori features Roman and Italian dishes like saltimbocca alla Romana, the fresh pasta tonnarelli alla carbonara, and risotto alla Milanese along with sought-after tables set inside a spacious steel bank vault.
 
1976 – In January Star Pizza fires up its pizza oven for the first time. Its thick-crust pizzas – not really the Chicago-style deep dish as advertised – are arguably the best in the city at the time, and quickly become a favorite with the college-age customers.
 
1976 – The February issue of Texas Monthly decries that “it is disappointing that there is such a dearth of authentic offerings in the restaurants of Texas.” No kidding, though there was a dearth in most of the country then, too. The author goes on the write that “Dallasites have the best selection of good Italian restaurants in Texas,” and that “good food doesn’t seem to be a requisite for success in Houston.” The wine lists throughout also draw scorn, offering just Chianti and maybe Valpolicella, Bardolino and Soave. He does praise Renata’s at 2006 Lexington, which opened in 1974, and Matranga’s. The former is lauded for the “Chicken Renata stuffed with ham and cheese,” a dish found nowhere in Italy. He also mentions that Tony’s, which “can’t be called an Italian restaurant, does serve specialties like osso buco and the best veal piccata I’ve eaten.”
 
1976 – Jason’s Deli – founded in Beaumont, Texas in 1976 by a Sicilian-American, Joe Tortorice – eventually includes over fifteen Houston area locations. A noticeable part of its success is due to its version of the muffaletta, the sandwich invented in the French Quarter in New Orleans in 1906. The muffaletta takes its name from a somewhat unusual, dense type of loaf that originated in Piano degli Albanesi, a town home to a large ethnic Albanian community, which is about a dozen miles from the Sicilian capital of Palermo, where the bread also became quite popular.
 
1977 – Nash D’Amico – who had recently run an Italian restaurant in Huntsville, and helped significantly by his cousin Damian Mandola – opens “something new and exciting for Houston,” D’Amico’s at 2407 Westheimer east of Kirby. It is known for dishes like frutti di mare salad, fried calamari, and tortellini in a cream sauce. Several years later, still “one of the busiest restaurants in Houston,” Texas Monthly describes it as “the first sumptuous Italian restaurant in Texas.”
 
1977 – In a small house on W. Dallas – a few blocks west of an area once rife with Italian grocers – Vincent Mandola opens Nino’s, which will grow into a two-block compound over the years. Greatly inspired by the cooking of their mother, Grace, the three Mandola brothers, Vincent, Tony and Damian, will go on to open many of Houston’s most popular restaurants: Nino’s (Vincent), Tony Mandola’s Gulf Coast Kitchen (Tony), Damian’s (Damian), Carrabba’s (Damian), Vincent’s (Vincent), Pesce (Damian) and Pronto (Vincent).
 
1978 – Quaint Arno’s at 5212 Cedar in Bellaire is awarded a star by Texas Monthly in its roundup of restaurants, one of only four so accoladed in the Houston section. Praised in the magazine in the past for the “good taste to explore facets of Italian cuisines heretofore unknown in Houston,” with many Northern Italian-inspired offerings including house-made pastas, veal kidneys and pesto, one of the first here to serve it. Its known for its seafood from beyond the Gulf, including mussels, and for an appetizer of mushrooms caps stuffed with the minced stems, onion, cream cheese and dill, from a recipe in Gourmet. Whatever inconsistencies existed in the kitchen and service seemed to grow after a move to 4002 Montrose in the early 1980s and restaurant loses luster.  

1978 – Destined to become a favorite of astronauts and other NASA personnel, Frenchie’s in a dumpy strip center in Clear Lake opens by the Camera brothers from the island of Capri. Though misleading, the owners decide to keep the name of the previous establishment. Its counter service at lunch – and usually packed – while full service in the evening.
 
1978 – The faccia di vecchia dish served at Mandola’s Deli that opens near the University of Houston takes its name from its likeness to the gnarled face of an old woman. It is a version of the sfincione, a focaccia-esque dish from the Palermo area, the progenitor of the square Sicilian pizza.
 
1981 – Carmelo’s opens on Memorial near Dairy Ashford in west Houston. Carmelo Mauro, a native of the beautiful resort town of Taormina in Sicily, brings Continental-inflected and well-executed Italian-American dishes that quickly become a hit and expands to Austin in a few years, a city with a complete absence in decent Italian cooking, which I was to learn moving there a few years later.
 
1982 – In the March issue of Texas Monthly is an article about Italian dining in Texas. It lists D’Amico’s and Villani at 2907 West Alabama as two of the three best Italian restaurants in the state. The reviewer thought important to add that “it seems that Dallas doesn’t need any more Italian restaurants, it just needs a few good Italian cooks.”
 
1982 – Sonny Bono – an Italian-American singer like Tony Bennett, if without the talent – opens an Italian restaurant called Bono’s on Woodway between Post Oak and Sage. A branch of his West Hollywood original, it lasts for several years.
 
1982 – In the fall of this year Carlo Molinaro, a native of Verona, starts a quaint restaurant called La Trattoria on Westheimer just east of Voss. Serving broadly northern Italian trattoria classics along with American-friendly items like garlic bread, fettuccine Alfredo and cream-laden veal scaloppine, the restaurant is maddeningly inconsistent until its close at the end of 2010. Delighting regular patrons – including many ex-pats from Italy – it is too often indifferent in terms of both cooking and service.
 
1982 – Achille Epifani, originally from Taranto in the heel of Italy’s boot, opens Achille’s on Memorial between Wilcrest and Kirkwood. Having once cooked at the famed Giambelli’s on 50th in Manhattan – the first to have broken the $10 mark for a pasta dish in the country – he brings a customer-pleasing sense to his usually full-flavored preparations. It remains a neighborhood favorite for over fifteen years before Epifani decides to down-scale to a fast-casual operation and move west (to Eldgridge).
 
1983 – In the fall, John Flowers, originally from the Chicago area, opens Kenneally’s Irish Pub, a neighborhood Irish bar, on Shepherd north of Westheimer. It, surprisingly, serves pizza, excellent pizza – a cracker-thin-crust that’s cut into squares and vaguely Neapolitan in heritage. This was the original type of pizza served in Chicago, well before the advent of the deep-dish. Its pizza-maker trained at the acclaimed Vito & Nick’s in southwestern Chicago, a remaining bastion of this style. Though still open in 2023, the pizzas at Kenneally’s haven’t been that great in years.
 
1982 – Tony Mandola opens the self-named Gulf Coast Kitchen, his second restaurant at 1602 Shepherd. In early 1988 it moves to much nicer digs the River Oaks Shopping Center on West Gray. Best described as a regional seafood restaurant, it does serve some unique and popular items that combine Italian-American cooking with regional ingredients and flavors.
 
1982 – Antonio Mingalone, a native of Basilicata in southern Italy, opens Montesano at 6009 Beverly Hill, aptly near Richmond and Fountain View, as the restaurant features a fountain inside. Texas Monthly quickly took note and Montesano will improve and become one of the city’s top Italian restaurants with influences from around that country geared toward the local clientele.
 
1985 – Following up the popularity of D’Amico’s, Nash D’Amico’s Pasta & Clam Bar opens at 2421 in the heart of the Rice Village. Nicely tiled and adorned with glass bricks 80s-popular neons, the Italian-American offerings skew toward pastas and Gulf seafood and Texas Monthly commented that it “still draws the trendy crowd” a few years after opening. It lasts for a decade there expanding to the Galleria area, Galveston and Clear Lake.

1985 – In their April issue, Texas Monthly notes that, “Joe Matranga, Owner of Texas’ Best Spaghetti Joint, gives out free postcards of himself as a valiant Greek warrior impaled on a bloody spear,” something he has done for years – odd but eye-catching – in awarding it the Best Restaurant Postcard, a time when postcards printed by restaurants were a thing.
 
1985 – On Smith Street in what would be called Midtown, Damian, Frankie and Vincent Mandola along with Ciro Lampasas and Johnny Carrabba, Sr. open Damian’s in the fall serving more refined and better executed Italian-American cooking with a Gulf Coast touch. It is soon to become one of Houston’s best-loved restaurants.
 
1986 – Ciro Lampasas opens his eponymous restaurant, Ciro’s, on the north side of I-10 at Campbell that becomes a Spring Branch favorite.
 
1986 – Aldo Cantania opens La Strada on a dicey stretch of Westheimer in Montrose. The California-style Italian food never draws raves, but its wild Sunday brunch becomes an institution. A second location opens in 1996 in the Galleria area. A fire shutters the original in 2002. It reopens in 2004, but never regained its former popularity. Both are closed by spring 2009.
 
1986 – With proprietors Damian Mandola and his nephew Johnny Carrabba, Carrabba’s opens in the site of a former adult bookstore on Kirby north of Richmond in December and not far south from River Oaks. More casual than Damian’s, the most expensive item on the menu is $9 and the wine offerings number in the single digits. The robust, familiar southern Italian-American fare some nods to their Sicilian roots, attentive service and lively atmosphere quickly resonates with Houstonians and becoming a local favorite.
 
1987 – Backstreet Café’s Tracy Vaught invests in Prego, a failing restaurant in the Rice Village. It was one of the scores of restaurants nationwide that had used Wolfgang Puck’s Spago as its inspiration. The next year it becomes Italian-themed, more competent, and a favorite of the nearby soon-to-be-booming West University and Southampton neighborhoods.
 
1988 – In January, due to the phenomenal success of its Kirby original in the past year, Carrabba’s opens a second location near Briargrove on Voss near San Felipe.
 
1988 – Augie Vasquez, a native of Argentina who had worked with Nash D’Amico, opens Augie’s at 5901 Westheimer at Fountain View. Drawing on his Italian heritage and restaurant experience, he serves dishes found infrequently in Houston, including some of the over thirty pastas and an excellent version of mozzarella in carozza dished from an open kitchen. Though the Houston Chronicle’s review noted that “this is one of those rare Italian restaurants where the meat and fish dishes rival the pastas,” the restaurant does not last but a couple of years.
 
1988 – The November issue of Texas Monthly raves about Damian’s grilled quail on polenta and its “fettuccine in Alfredo sauce adorned with dandelions… [with] moist grilled boned chicken breast.”  It garners two stars (out of three) making it one of the top seven restaurants in the state according to the magazine.
 
1989 – Tony Vallone opens Neapolitan-spiced Grotto in January. The food is excellent; not really authentically Italian, but the execution and ingredients are top-notch. The flavors are properly distinct and vibrant, more so Italian, southern Italian, rather than typically Italian-American. The exuberant scene rivals the food. The restaurant is notable also for introducing to locals the Sardinian flatbread pane carasau as part of its copious complimentary bread basket and bellinis, that classic first concocted in the famed Harry’s Bar in Venice. Grotto is named one of the top new restaurants in the country by Esquire magazine in 1990.
 
1991 – On Lovett just off Montrose, Lynette Hawkins opens La Mora, occupying the spot of another Italian restaurant, Villa Borghese. Hawkins had lived in Florence and La Mora is the first of the area’s first Tuscan-themed restaurants that proves to strike a welcome cord among Houston diners.
 
1991 – Pino Luongo, the New York restaurateur that helped introduce and popularize Tuscan food in this country beginning in New York the 1980s, opens a restaurant in the Galleria near the pricey Barney’s spot in August. Texas Monthly wrote a few months later that, “the most sophisticated Houston Tuscan restaurant is the largely undiscovered Piccola Cucina.” Unfortunately, it remained that way and shuttered after a not-too-long tenure. It was probably the most truly Italian restaurant in Houston to that point.
 
1991 – Tony Vallone opens La Griglia on West Gray just east of River Oaks in the fall. Esquire names it a best new restaurant in the country soon after opening. Less Neapolitan and maybe less Italian than his Grotto, it is similarly boisterous and stylishly casual, and quickly becomes a place for socialites and politicians. The restaurant scene remarkably remains so, two decades, and a change of ownership later.
 
1992 – In January an unpretentious spot dedicated to well-prepared Neapolitan style pasta dishes and somewhat odd, but popular, baked casserole creations opens a corner of the Pennzoil Building downtown. Called Buca di Bacco until the chain Buca di Beppe paid owner Vittorio Preteroti, a native of the isle of Capri and related to the family that runs Frenchie’s, to change. So, it has been known as Perbacco for years.
 
1992 – The first area Romano’s Macaroni Grill from Brinker International opens at 5802 Westheimer and is a hit. The very quaffable jug wines sold on the honor is a big reason, helping it last for a couple of decades. The chain began in Leon Springs, outside of San Antonio, in 1988.
 
1992 – In December two chefs from the famous Cipriani Hotel in Venice open Torcello at 2300 Westheimer, east of Kirby. Taking the name of the island where the hotel is located, its Venetian-inspired cuisine – including Harry’s Bar classics – is some of the very best Italian food that has ever been served in Houston, and its interior wins a local design award. The restaurant lasts for about a year-and-a-half, closing in 1994. It could be the address as Armando's, Dish, Two Chefs Bistro, Beso, and most recently a’Bouzy – to name most of the ones which followed, most having abbreviated tenures.
 
1993 – In April Outback Steakhouse purchased a 50% stake in the cash flows of the two Carrabba's restaurants and entered into a 50-50 joint venture with the founders, Johnny Carrabba and Damian Mandola, to develop new locations. Houston’s version of Italian-American food and hospitality is poised to spread nationally. From soon after this, as most Houston restaurant-goers know, but it bears mentioning, the first two Carrabba’s locations – now just owned by Johnny Carrabba and family – are much better than the nationwide Carrabba’s Grill outposts.
 
1993 – The Leading Italian Restaurants of the United States by Gruppo Ristoranti Italiani, which promotes “the highest traditions of Italian cuisine” in this country, includes Tony’s, the only entry for a restaurant in Texas.
 
1993 – Del Vecchio Foods is founded in Houston and produces a line of fresh Italian sausages that can be found at Spec’s and not enough other local outlets. Its best product in 2023 might be its Spanish-style chorizo, actually.
 
1994 – Anthony’s reopens at 4007 Westheimer in Highland Village, though it is not as Italian as it once was. The oft-decadent Italian-scented veal dishes remain excellent, though.
 
1994 – Using a far cheaper and less competent designer than Anthony’s – the odd Il Dio di Vin’ opens on the 7600 block of the Katy Freeway. The stuccoed interior is meant to resemble a grotto setting, but harkens more to the caves described in the depressing Christ Stopped at Eboli. The menu is entirely in some southern Italian dialect – Neapolitan, I believe – and the food is a mix of Italian-American and Neapolitan dishes done a little differently. The wine is inexpensive; the food is moderately priced, robustly flavored and usually terrific, especially the pasta dishes.
 
1994 – Nearby, also on the Katy Freeway, Tony Mandola's Family Table. It served giant Italian-American dishes meant for several, and meant to be like “going to grandma's house for Sunday dinner,” provided she was first- or second-generation southern Italian or Sicilian. The concept did not work for Houston, and it changed into another Blue Oyster Bar, which remained until the freeway expansion chased it north.
 
1994 – If not quite new, at least renewed, Anthony’s is named a top new restaurant in the country by Esquire magazine in October.
 
1995 – In January, Johnny Carrabba and Damian Mandola purchased Outback’s shares in the original two Carrabba’s and modified the terms of the expansion agreement. The numerous Carrabba-named outlets grow to over 230 during the next fifteen years while the two initial locations remain amazingly popular.
 
1996 – Thai-born Somchai Rapesak who had cooked for La Strada for nearly a decade opens Crostini in a small house on Shepherd north of Westheimer early in the year. It grows to incorporate the then-trendy Southwestern ingredients and Thai flavors into American Italian cooking that works quite well. The restaurant has a successful dozen year run.
 
1996 – In March, two local Italian restaurant stars, Damian Mandola (Damian’s, Carrabba’s) and Lynette Hawkins (La Mora, Giacomo’s), marry, though the union doesn’t last.
 
1996 – Deep in the heat and humidity of August, Arcodoro opens in the Galleria area. The elegant spot quickly becomes regarded as one of the best Sardinian-focused restaurant in the country (not that there are too many). Its Seadas Al Miele dessert – puff pastry filled with sweetened cheese, fried and drizzled with bitter honey – is “perhaps the oldest dessert in the world” according to an Italian food authority.
 
1996 – Nash D’Amico opens D'Amico's Italian Market Café on Morningside in the Rice Village that is both a market and café, or restaurant more properly. The casual place, with red checkered tablecloths adorning tables near shelves filled with grocery items and featuring Italian-American favorites and popular restaurant items along with regional favorite, crawfish ravioli, quickly resonate with the neighborhood that misses his long-running place around the corner. It expands in 2011 to the Heights and 2013 to Katy, each for just a few years.

1996 – Villa Capri in Clear Lake – run by the family that owns nearby Frenchie’s – hosts the Italian head of state, President Oscar Luigi Scalfaro, who was visiting NASA.
 
1997 – In an April 11 review in the Houston Chronicle, Alex Truex writes, “Houston is blessed, but also cursed, by its plethora of upscale Italian restaurants,” proving definitively that he is no Robb Walsh or Alison Cook.
 
1997 – The restaurant with a bank vault run by a family from Rome, Ballatori’s, closes after a two decade run.
 
1998 – In April the Jay Leno on “The Tonight Show” pokes fun at the name of the Houston restaurant Crapitto’s located on Mid Lane near Highland Village. It is the last name of the owner, by the way.
 
1998 – In the summer of 1998 Aldo El Sharif of the extravagant Aldo's – along with Marco Wiles – opens a wine bar called Osteria D'Aldo at 301 Main downtown.
 
1998 – Husband and wife Bernand and Kathy Petronella open Paulie’s, named after their son, on Westheimer across from Lanier Middle School that serves a crowd-pleasing menu long on sandwiches, hot and cold, leafy salads, Italian-American dishes and cookies in a comfortable space done via counter-service. A second location on Holcombe opens and closes in the next decade and then Camerata, one of Houston’s most serious wine bars, in the space adjacent in 2013.
 
1998 – From two cousins born in Calabria and veterans of New York City pizzerias, Romano’s Pizza opens in a retail center on West Gray near Waugh. Serving Italian-American standards like manicotti, eggplant Parmesan and chicken Francese along with the pies all via gruff counter service, this becomes a favorite of transplants from the New York area looking for a taste of pizza they grew up with.
 
1998 – With skilled Alberto Baffoni a native of the Marche in central Italy manning the kitchen, Simposio opens on Richmond and Chimney Rock. It is named as one of the top new restaurants in the country by Esquire that fall, being praised by bringing to Houston “authentic Italian cooking.”  Simposio takes its name from the Michelin-starred Symposium restaurant in Carteceto, Marche where Baffoni had worked.
 
1999 – In July of 1999 the Houston Chronicle lauds La Griglia in a review, as “Marco Wiles brings glory back to the kitchen.” It is planned as a short time gig.
 
1999 – Arcodoro is awarded three stars out of four by famed Italian journalist Luigi Veronelli and his team in the The Best Italian Restaurants in America. Barely more than twenty other Italian restaurants in the country were rated as high.
 
1999 – Also that year, another Italian publication, the magazine La Cucina Italiana has a feature article about Tony Vallone citing him as one of the Southwest's best-known Italian-food gurus.
 
2000 –In January divino on West Alabama near Dunlavy opens. Though as much a wine bar at first – and a place with intelligently chosen and well-priced wines – it can probably lay claim to being Houston’s first trattoria. It serves basic, proficient cooking that aims for true Italian sensibilities, inspired from Emilia-Romagna.
 
2000 – In March Marco Wiles – who had worked locally for Tony Vallone, Antonio Mingalone and Aldo El Sharif – opens Da Marco, which sports an unusually all-Italian wine list, and is to become the most lauded Italian restaurant in Houston’s dining history.
 
2000 – Both Tony Vallone for Tony’s, and Alberto Baffoni of Simposio have recipes featured in John Mariani’s The Italian-American Cookbook published in 2000 that highlighted Italian-American standards and broadly Italian dishes from well-known chefs like Eric Ripert, Daniel Boulud and Ming Tsai. Vallone’s recipe is Capellini with Calamari and Shrimp (page 146); Baffoni’s is Potato Gnocchi with Wild Mushroom Ragù (page 196), “one of his masterful dishes” according to the author. Future Houston restaurateur Piero Selvaggio also has a recipe, Risotto with Corn (page 217).
  
2001 – Damian Mandola and Johnny Carrabba were asked to host the fourth season of the nationally syndicated PBS series “Cucina Amore.”   It spawns the cookbook, Ciao Y’All, possibly the closest tome that describes the Italian-themed cooking here. The hosts’ ebullient and irreverent style are such a hit they film two additional series featuring the cooking of Sicily and Tuscany – and companion cookbooks – in 2003 and 2004.
 
2001 – Just a year after it opens, talented sommelier Antonio Gianola joins Da Marco. He expands and greatly improves the all-Italian wine list to include a diverse, complementary and intriguing array of finds that help make the restaurant even more commendable. Gianola later goes on to Catalan as one of the opening partners helping to turn that into one of the city’s most exciting restaurants.
 
2001 – Nino’s (and Vincent’s, Grappino di Nino and later Pronto) Vincent Mandola is featured preparing his Veal Vincent on “Food Finds” on the Food Network.

2002 – In January the restaurant in the Four Seasons hotel downtown with talented Tim Keating heading the kitchen is rechristened from the well-regarded but stale French-themed DeVille into Quattro following a reported $3 million remodel, a contemporary Italian restaurant. Keating’s recent turn at the landmark Four Seasons property in Milan makes this one of the most authentic Italian kitchens in the city. Alison Cook writes a review in the Houston Chronicle a few months after opening that “it's the best place downtown by a long shot.”

2002 – Arcodoro’s Ravioli Arcodoro wins an international ravioli competition. Remaining on the menu throughout the restaurant’s tenure, these are good-sized ravioli filled with minced shrimps and scallops and wine must and finished with a flavorful seafood reduction.
 
2003 – Formerly just a wholesaler and a gelato maker to area restaurants, Nundini’s on N. Shepherd become known also as a retail import shop, sandwich purveyor and Houston’s first notable outlet for gelato and sorbetto.
 
2003 – In November Tilman Fertitta’s Landry Group purchases La Griglia and the two Grotto restaurants from Tony Vallone. That deal seems to stipulate that Vallone divest himself all but one restaurant. The Landry organization subsequently preserves these once interesting spots into amber, but these remain popular, if with a likely less discriminating group of patrons.
 
2004 – Amici Olive Oil, produced in Tuscany and owned by a Houstonian – begins distribution and is found at outlets like Spec’s and Leibman’s plus on-line.
 
2004 – Damian’s caters the All Star game held in Houston providing Italian food for Joe Torre and others while serving Caribbean-style food to the numerous Latin ballplayers on the American League roster.
 
2005 – Appropriately relocated to the former site of Maxim’s (once “the secure haven of the River Oaks plutocracy”) and featuring contemporary artwork from likes of the acclaimed Texas-bred artists Robert Rauschenberg and Jesus Moroles, Tony’s is named among the top new restaurants in the country by Esquire magazine. The French executive chef with the tough-to-pronounce Polish last name, Olivier Ciesielski, directs a kitchen staff that is capable of creating excellent Italian food.
 
2006 – In January Marco Wiles’ Dolce Vita opens on lower Westheimer. Seemingly using Mario Batali’s Otto in Manhattan as a template, Wiles goes far beyond that with his Italian-style pizzas fired in a wood-burning oven using a range of toppings inspired throughout the peninsula. It is easily the best pizzeria in Houston and encounters no serious contenders for years, if ever, before closing.
 
2006 – In Damian Mandola founds Mandola Family Winery south of Austin focusing on Italian varietals like Vermentino, Dolcetto and Montepulciano. TABC issues arising because of his ownership in dining or retail establishments – or a fallout with his partners according to another source – cause him to sell out to his partners. He still owns the attractive Trattoria Lisina dishing out pleasing Italian-American fare next door.
 
2006 – Gourmet Sardinia, an outlet for high quality Sardinian food products, is launched by Arcodoro’s owners Efisio and Lori Farris. The online shop offers artisanal products from Farris’ homeland that are quite different than those found in the typical Italian-American pantry. Bottarga, bitter honey and saba are a few of the high-end items that also include wine and olive oils.
 
2006 – The October edition of Gourmet listed Da Marco at number 29 among their list of top 50 restaurants in the country. Only three other Italians are placed higher – Babbo in New York, Vetri in Philadelphia, and Bartolotta di Mare in Las Vegas – not bad company, at all.
 
2007 – Sweet Myrtle & Bitter Honey: The Mediterranean Flavors of Sardinia from Efisio Farris of Arcodoro is published. It is likely the first Sardinian cookbook published in English. The New York Times listed it among “25 noteworthy cookbooks published in 2007.’’
 
2007 – Late in the year Ristorante Cavour opens in developer Giorgio Borlenghi’s posh Hotel Granduca. The executive chef is a Frenchman, David Denis, of the well-regarded Le Mistral on the west side. He infuses the flavors similar to his native Provence and Liguria to create a broadly northern Italian array of very well-crafted dishes. He proves that the French culinary tradition of stock-making marries well with Milanese-style risotto. For those that don’t know much about Italian history, the restaurant takes its moniker from Baron Cavour, one of the principal architects of Italian unification in 1861; the conquest of the Kingdom of Two Sicilies and its incorporation into the Turin-based Kingdom of Sardinia.
 
2008 – In an article entitled “The Best U.S. Italian Restaurants” in the April issue of Forbes Traveler, John Mariani names Tony’s among the top dozen or so Italian eateries in the country. He writes, “in its new location, Tony's plays to a younger crowd that comes for rigorously authentic Italian regional cuisine and great wines.”
 
2008 – Also in April, Andrea Pintus, the longtime chef at lower Heights-area Patrenalla’s, and a native of Sardinia, opens his own restaurant with business partner, Luigi Campioni, on Westheimer and Dairy Ashford. Called Andrea’s is serves approachable Italian and Italian-American dishes that are a very good value. Unfortunately, Pintus dies as the result of an accident in early 2011 at the age of 55.
 
2008 – In the heat of the summer, Russo’s Coal-Fired Pizzeria from the folks at the local New York Pizzeria chain opens in northwest Houston. Houstonians can get a taste of more pizzas cooked in the more traditional early New York and New Haven fashion. These are better than regular Russo's pies, but don't resonate that much with local pizza-lovers and eventually contract to one area location in Missouri City.
 
2009 – Sicilian Village located in Friendswood begins distributing packaged olives from Sicily. These are available initially at Spec’s, Amazon.com and now HEB and elsewhere along with at SicilianVillage.com.
 
2009 – Marco Wiles opens his third truly Italian restaurant along a short stretch of Westheimer, Poscol, in March. It takes its name from the term in dialect used for a main thoroughfare (Via Poscolle) in the northeastern Italian city of Udine, the hometown of Wiles’ family. Featuring small plates and inspiration largely from Veneto and Friuli, it sports another well-chosen all-Italian wine list.
 
2009 – In September Houston hosts its first Italian Expo produced to highlight products from Italy. It is a boon to wine lovers, maybe too much so. Chicago is the only other city to host a similar event.
 
2009 – Lynette Hawkins, who ran the beloved La Mora, gets back into the game in September with her Tuscan- and  Venetian-inspired small plate spot Giacomo’s on Westheimer west of Kirby. From the start, it features a very well-chosen and well-priced all-Italian wine list that seems to cover every corner of that country. It evolves to become one of the city's most reliable and best-value dining destinations, regardless of cuisine.
 
2009 – Legendary restaurateur Piero Selvaggio – whose Santa Monica eatery Valentino was long regarded as the best Italian restaurant in the country – opens his third branch in Houston’s modern Hotel Derek near the Galleria. The restaurant is a new concept for Houston, an Italian ambition and credibility previously found elsewhere in this country just in New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, Las Vegas and one spot in Philadelphia. A veteran of Valentino’s Las Vegas operation, the talented Cunninghame West heads the kitchen here, doing an excellent job with an approachable version of Selvaggio’s inspired takes on pan-Italian alta cucina. James Beard Award-winning chef Luciano Pellegrini occasionally comes to town from Sin City to aid with special dinners for some added culinary power. Texas Monthly names it and Poscol on its list of best restaurants to open in the state that year.
 
2009 – Stella Sola by one of the city’s top toques, Bryan Caswell, along with partner Bill Floyd opens in the Heights in November 2009. Influenced by the meaty robustness of some northern Italian cooking, its name translates to “Lone Star” (or “Lonely Star”) in English. One of Caswell’s early cooking stints was at Damian’s. He later cooked with the talented Rocco DiSpirito well before DiSpirito’s televised Italian-American restaurant nightmare, “The Restaurant” in 2003.
 
2010 – In January, Sardinian Nico Chessa, the former chef at Arcodoro, is named executive chef of Valentino’s flagship Santa Monica location after heading one of its Las Vegas restaurants for several years. This provides some confirmation about the quality of the kitchen at Arcodoro over the years.
 
2010 – In April, Tuscan Renato De Pirro, an alumnus of Pierro Selvaggio’s Las Vegas restaurants and previously the executive chef at Osteria del Circo, the Maccioni’s family refined and well-regarded trattoria in the Bellagio Hotel and Casino, takes over the kitchen at Ristorante Cavour, bringing a more properly Italian taste to the menu at this upscale establishment.
 
2010 – Ciao Bello, another Vallone enterprise that had opened a year earlier in a space once occupied by La Strada on San Felipe, is named among “11 More Restaurants You Don't Want to Miss” by Esquire in 2010. It will become known for its zesty flavors among Roman-style thin-crust pizzas, pastas, Gulf-oriented seafood and meaty Italian-American-inflected preparations in an attractively casual and comfortable but very stylish setting that has long been a Vallone signature. Also in 2010, Vallone’s Caffe Bello takes over the original address of La Strada in Montrose, but struggles for traction in an evolving neighborhood.
 
2010 – Maurizio Ferrarese moves from a Four Seasons property in Florence to head the kitchen at Quattro, which had become less interesting after Tim Keating’s departure in 2005. The restaurant will reach new heights under Ferrarese.
 
2010 – In December Amici in Sugar Land closes. It seems competition from a recently opened Olive Garden nearby might have played a factor. This does not reflect well on Fort Bend residents.

2011 – Pizaro's opens in a strip center on Memorial in west Houston serving Neapolitan style pizza, the most truly Neapolitan that Houston has thus seen. Proprietor Bill Hutchinson puts his “Verace Pizza Napoletana” certification as a pizzaiolo to good use, and the bare-bones spots draws customers from around the area including a number of Italian ex-pats.
 
2011 – In an area deficient in quality fresh Italian sausage, you can purchase it at the two Carrabba's owned by the family, though you will likely have to call ahead. The piquant, flavorful sausage is made by Johnny Carrabba, Sr., and unusual for Italian sausage elsewhere, but consistent with Texas, it contains a fair portion of beef.
 
2012 – Valentino, likely the best Italian restaurant that ever was in Houston, cannot overcome the very difficult location in the Hotel Derek that is a curse on restaurants and shutters. A shame, as proprietor Piero Selvaggio never got to do all he wanted to with the restaurant including becoming more adventurous with the offerings and expanding its wine list to at least a substantial of his Santa Monica original that has one of top handful of wine lists in the country
 
2014 – Inspired by the Italian heritage of executive chef Ryan Pera, Coltivare opens in January on White Oak in the Heights offering seasonal American-Italian fare including distinctively bready pizzas along with pastas and larger preparations in a casual, no reservations setting that seduces most local food critics.
 
2014 – Giancarlo Ferrara, the executive chef at Arcodoro for over a decade, opens Amalfi on Westheimer west of the Galleria in the same strip center as The Palm. Highlighting the dishes and flavors of his native Salerno, down the coast from Naples, that should be familiar to most American diners along with some items and techniques from his stops in the Veneto and at a French restaurant bearing two Michelin stars, the restaurant quickly becomes one of the top Italians in the city.
 
2015 – Now sporting the descriptive phrase, “Naples Influenced. Milan Inspired. Houston Cherished,” Tony’s celebrates its fiftieth year in business.
 
2015 – Pizaro's opens a second location on Montrose and West Gray. It later expands its menu to include New York style and Detroit style pizzas. The latter, a version of the Sicilian pan pizza created in Detroit soon after the Second World War, has been trendy addition to pizza joint menus across the country.

2016 – Lira Rossa, a dairy in Moulton, about two hours due west of Houston, is founded, producing excellent Italian-style cow's milk cheeses in the style of those from Friuli where principal Andrea Cudin is from and elsewhere like mozzarella. Sold at the big Urban Farmers Market on Saturdays, the cheeses find a home at many of the city's best restaurants.

2017 – Across the street from the ballpark, Astros owner opens Potente, an upscale, expensive Italian-themed restaurant that eventually gets the skilled Danny Trace who was the executive chef at Brennan’s, and at the estimable Commander's Palace in New Orleans before that. The 'Stros also win their first World Series title in the fall, coincidentally.
 
2017 – Chef Mark Cox of Mark's fame begins consulting at Fratelli's, an Italian-American restaurant in Spring Branch that began as a franchised offshoot of the original Fratelli's on 290. His work improves the food and the restaurant's profile, which becomes a favorite of an older set of west Houston customers.

2017 – After 36 years in business, Carmelo’s closes after Christmas brunch. Owner Carmelo Mauro, a steadfast member of the Houston restaurant community was both the former president of both the Texas Restaurant Association and the Greater Houston Restaurant Association.
 
2018 – Arcodoro, the upscale Sardinian restaurant in the Galleria that drew loyal patronage from ex-pat Italians and other Europeans closes in February after nearly two decades in business.
 
2018 – In a strip center along lowest Westheimer, La Sicilia opens in March from a pastry chef originally from Sciacca on Sicily’s southwestern coast serving beautiful pastries including cannoli, of course, and also afternoon savories like sandwiches on cornettos and focaccias.
 
2018 – In April, after a very brief visit here, the Italian wine and food publication Gambero Rosso names Amalfi as the best fine dining Italian restaurant in Houston, Sud Italia, with Maurizio Ferrarese in the kitchen, as tops for traditional cuisine, the Dallas-based chain Cane Rosso for pizza (quite surprisingly, and maybe a bit grudgingly according to the person I spoke with at Gambero Rosso), and Poscol for having the best wine program among local Italian restaurants.
 
2018 – In July, J.J. Watt asked his 5 million-plus followers on Twitter for the best Italian restaurant in Houston. The clear favorite of the 2,000 or so respondents was, very oddly and depressingly, Olive Garden, of which there are over twenty locations in the Houston area, which is also depressing to learn.
 
2018 – Tanglewood’s neighborhood Italian restaurant from Tony Vallone, Ciao Bello, closes rather suddenly in August, a couple of weeks after sibling steakhouse Vallone’s does so in Spring Branch.
 
2018 – In November, chef Maurizio Ferrarese, a native of Vercelli, the rice-growing area in Piedmont, veteran of kitchens throughout Italy, and who won deserved plaudits at Quattro and Sud Italia, is hired to take over the kitchen at Ristorante Cavour.

2019 – Rosie Cannonball, the second of five planned concepts, four serving food, to open in a very smart and neat complex in the heart of Westheimer’s restaurant row directly across the street from the estimable UB Preserv, it is essentially an Italian restaurant with a more than a few nods to the Iberian peninsula on the initially short menu, which includes probably the smallest plates of pasta ever seen locally outside of a child’s menu. The crowd-pleasing dishes done well and stylish space made it an attractive stop for the ladies who lunch and a busy spot at night. In November 2022, it is the seen of a reportedly raucous early morning party celebrating the Astros victory in the World Series after the clinching Game 6 for Justin Verlander and his wife Kate Upton, who are regular diners and friends of the owners.

2020 – Patrenella's near Waugh north of Memorial, closed after nearly three decades in business. Set partially in the house where owner Sammy Patrenella grew up, this was a favorite of many, including those who get there quickly from downtown for lunch, for its approachable, comforting Italian-American dishes, even after the departure of Chef Andrea Pintus.

2020 – In the first summer of the pandemic, Fiori opens on Montrose near Richmond in the two-floor space once occupied by Brasserie Max & Julie, Artisans and several others. Meaning “flowers” in Italian, this is also, oddly, a floral boutique. With owners from Rome, the menu features the trio of classic Roman pastas plus a number of other popular dishes throughout from local chef Marcos Salazar. The saucing of pastas, significant, plays to the American expectations, though annoying patrons from Italy.

2020 – Vincent Mandola of Nino’s, Vincent’s and Pronto, and the Mandola clan of local restaurateurs, passes away at age 77. His restaurants remain open and family-run.
 
2020 – In an effort to negotiate the adverse business dynamics of the pandemic, Roma, the former Sud Italia at the edge of the Rice Village, began to host virtual wine dinners over Zoom on a weekly basis with a three-course dinner cooked by its chef from the Marche region in central Italy and paired with three wines, typically from a single Italian winery, all picked up at the restaurant just before the event. Featuring representatives from the wineries who are located in Italy but speaking English and moderated by Jeremy Parzen, a local who is also one of the region’s leading Italian wine experts, these became quite popular, with attendance regularly exceeding seventy participants.
 
2020 – Tony Vallone dies in September at the age of 75. The city’s most famous restaurateur and proprietor of Tony’s, along with Anthony’s, Caffé Bello, Ciao Bello, Grotto, La Griglia, Vallone’s, and Los Tonyos over the years, Vallone’s restaurants, especially Tony’s, garnered national acclaim and continued attention across the decades, and greatly raised the quality of dining in Houston and Italian-themed fare, in particular. His restaurants exhibited a well-known cosseting of customers and terrific sense of design style in addition to its culinary highlights. Tony’s, opened since 1965 in three locations, carries on with his widow Donna Vallone.
 
2020 – In the fall, Marco Wiles finally closed his acclaimed pizzeria Dolce Vita on lower Westheimer. Not due to the pandemic, Wiles announced he wanted to focus on his other two restaurants down the street, Poscol and Da Marco as he passed his sixtieth birthday.
 
2020 – Chef Travis McShane returned home to Houston after about a decade working for acclaimed New York chef and restaurateur – and an originator of California cuisine in the early 1980s – Jonathon Waxman that included stints at the Italian-esque Barbuto and then as the corporate chef, with Ostia in a long-empty space on Dunlavy in Montrose, opening finally in October. Featuring recognizably Mediterranean ingredients and preparations, most of the menu is Italian-inspired with bold notes, including very well-done pizzas from a wood-burning oven, seemingly well-suited for the city from a very experienced hand.
 
2020 – The folks behind the terrific contemporary bistro Nancy’s Hustle opened Tiny Champions after Thanksgiving, also in EaDo and also with an odd name. Focusing on Italian-inspired but distinctive pizzas and house-made fresh pastas, the team of Sean Jensen and baking-loving chef Jason Vaughan have introduced a much-needed top-notch new pizzeria to a pizza-deficient city.

2021 – With an emphasis on the cooking of the beautiful region of the Marche, from where the owners and chefs hail, Concura in Highland Village joins the handful of truly Italian restaurants in Houston. Small inside with a décor that blends contemporary and rustic notes in plenty of black and dark gray and a distinct Eurotrash feel, but with an attractive open kitchen that feels like a newer restaurant in Italy, as does its outdoor seating along a sidewalk. It repurposes to Dante’s in 2023 with new ownership and a new chef becoming somewhat less Italian and much less interesting but with a brighter, more inviting setting.

2021 – In September, Fresco! in a strip center on the Southwest Freeway near Kirby and its chef Roberto Crescini, originally from near Lake Garda, are featured on an episode of Guy Fieri's Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives where he makes fresh pasta, guanciale, and spaghetti alla carbona and taglietelle with lamb. Another good choice from Fieri for Houston, where he has rarely made a misstep in selections for his show. Fresco!, however, closes early the next year.

2021 – Alba, the new concept at the Hotel Granduca replacing Ristorante Cavour features an updated rich, plush, green-hued setting, but thankfully has the old chef, Maurizio Ferrarese, who might be the top Italian toque in Texas and some ways beyond. Terrific with fresh pastas and gnocchi, there is certainly no area chef that does a better job with risotto that’s on the menu a couple of times, befitting one from Vercelli that's not terribly far from the town of Alba and is the European capital of rice production.

2021 – Before the close of the year, husband and wife, Christina and Alfredo Mojica, veterans of Da Marco, open up Amore in the sliver of a space on Shepherd Drive that housed Maine-ly Sandwiches. Even with the never-ending roadway construction in front, the restaurant quickly draws patrons of nearby Da Marco for cooking that is very familiar. Well-done pizzas from a golden-tiled oven complement the usually hearty Italian preparations that ignore the seasons, except for those of truffles.

2022 - An outlet of the acclaimed Brooklyn pizza joint, Roberta's, opens in the food court that is the dining section of the Post Market in the northwest corner of downtown, finally in the spring. Joining several other cities in this now mini-chain, the Neapolitan-influenced, minimalist thin-crust pies live up to the hype and are what quality pizzeria-deficient Houston needs. Unfortunately, it closes suddenly in July 2023.

2022 - Chef Roberto Crescini is nicely not away very long as his essentially reprises Fresco! in a better location and a much nicer setting as Davanti near Greenway Plaza, if now costing a few more lire. Still counter-service, the menu is about the same as are the pastas made also with hard durum wheat for a more toothsome texture and the ability to be extruded. It also continues the American consumer-friendly mix and match of pasta shapes and sauces, and its tasty take on the Roman pizza al taglio. House-made sausages and occasional salumi reflect his training, too, as a norcino.

2022 – At the end of July, the family of Vincent Mandola close the rest of the restaurants in the compound on W. Dallas street where service began forty-five years earlier following the family's sale of the two-and-a-half acres of property where the restaurants sat. Nino's, Vincent's, Grappino di Nino and the little kiosk for gelato shutter. All of the casual, counter-service Pronto locations had closed earlier. Long-popular bastions for familiar Italian-American fare studded with Italy-inspired items like osso buco and fettuccine Alfredo along the way plus the not-so-Italian rotisserie chicken at Vincent's.
 
2022 – A couple Italian restaurants created with considerable expensive open in the Galleria area and on West Gray near River Oaks, Il Bracco and Zanti, from out of town restaurant concerns. From the Dallas area and Mexico, respectively, these are pricy, pretty and dull, and don’t enthrall too many discerning diners. Both are part of a trend of non-chef-driven multi-unit Italian concepts – margins are amazing on cacio e pepe, after all. Il Bracco is what you would expect from an Italian-themed restaurant birthed in the Park Cities of Dallas.
 
2023 – VinSanto, a smart wine bar and bottle shop with a strong Italian accent and sensibility, opens in west Houston on Memorial west of Gessner in January from Riccardo Guerrieri and Giorgio Caflisch, two local wine pros. Guerrieri, from Umbria, ran the similar Vinology on Bissonnet and Caflisch teaches Italian wine at the Texas Wine School. The casual menu, necessarily well-suited for the wines, includes oval-shaped pinsas, a Roman flatbread.
 
2023 – In May in the upscale River Oaks District center, Bari opens with the experienced Renato De Pirro heading the kitchen. The beautiful, brass-hued interior features tall ceilings and a long space for 150 that is large but surprisingly intimate plus seating for an additional hundred on the patio. Quickly popular with a noticeably expensively-attired and -coiffed crowd, the serious kitchen highlights popular, attractively plated pan-Italian trattoria fare, along with pizza, made very well and mostly with excellent foodstuffs imported from Italy. This is the best Italian restaurant to open in Houston since Alba and quickly one of the city's top Italians.
 
2023 – Elro, a slightly odd but terrific “pizzeria and crudo bar,” from Terrance Gallivan, who was one of the principals at the acclaimed Pass & Provisions, opens in June. In a big city with a deficit of quality pizzerias, the admirable individually sized pizzas are a start and a draw for many. Before arriving in Houston a decade earlier, Gallivan worked kitchens at acclaimed Italian restaurants in Manhattan that had three stars (out of four) from The New York Times, Fiamma and Alto, the last where he was executive chef. There’s noticeable Italian subtext throughout, Italian done well. The succinct, nicely chosen wine list is nearly entirely Italian, too.
 
2023 – In the summer, Nonno’s from Martin and Sara Stayer of well-regarded Nobie’s nearby is a new pizzeria offering its take on Chicago’s tavern-style pizza, Chicago’s original style, one that Houstonians might be familiar with from long-standing Kenneally’s. Thin-crust and cut into squares, its even easier to raise a drink while eating than the typical slice of pizza. Though the pizzas soon after opening aren’t at the level of Kenneally’s its heyday, Nonno’s enticing, Italian-laden wine list is much better as are its fun cocktails.



I’ve got to add that through a coincidence of fate, I was born in the Italian North Beach neighborhood of San Francisco and afterwards belonged to the same parish in Bergen County, New Jersey as the mother of Frank Sinatra, whom I was told reliably purchased kegs for church functions. A very long-time Houstonian, I was the local editor for the Zagat Survey for several years until Google did away with those positions and, possibly more pertinently, is the author of the ebook From the Antipasto to the Zabaglione: The Story of Italian Restaurants in America that is available on Amazon.

An enticing pasta preparation at the new Bari

I arrived uncharacteristically fifteen minutes early for dinner yesterday with my family at Palinuro, an Italian restaurant my brother and sister-in-law like near their house in Cinco Ranch, and so had ample time to peruse the short, simple wine list. Looking for a glass then I thought a bottle of white wine to start, as it was hot outside and we were six adults, I did a double-take when I saw Pieropan La Rocca for just $65 in the two-page booklet that was filled with mostly uninteresting choices. This Soave is a terrific wine and consistently one of Italy’s most acclaimed whites.
 
Made with entirely with Garganega grown in a single vineyard with clay and limestone soils, fermented in wood and aged for around fifteen months in 500-liter tonneaux, La Rocca offers a different, more deeply flavored expression of Soave. These are serious wines.
 
Though not indicated on the list, it turned out to be the 2021 vintage, which James Suckling gave 95 points. It was delicious. A bit of fruit on the nose and a taste that was easy and savory and very long-lasting, with a mouth-filling body. The wine worked well before dinner and throughout, especially with my very enjoyable, sturdy house-made ravioli filled with lobster and served in a light tomato, cream and crab sauce. We went through three bottles of La Rocca by the end of the meal.
 
Certainly a surprise to find it on Palinuro’s list – I keep my eye out for Pieropan having visited its dramatic new winery last summer – what was also unexpected was its price. You can find La Rocca at Total Wine for $38 now, which is almost ten dollars cheaper than elsewhere. Using the rule of thumb of a 200% to 300% markup over retail, most restaurants would price this from between $90 to $150, and it would certainly be fair.
 
I’ll wager that you won’t find a wine as good at any Houston restaurant as Pieropan La Rocca at Palinuro.

“Elro is a neighborhood pizzeria and crudo bar located in a bungalow house at the confluence of the Montrose and Midtown neighborhoods” proclaims its website, quite accurately. One might think at the outset that a “pizzeria and crudo bar” is an odd thing, but unpretentious Elro makes terrific sense, and it’s been a wonderful addition to the local dining scene since opening in June and that’s even before the fairly prominent patio can be of a full use during this even-more-brutal-than-usual summer.
 
This is largely because its headed Terrance Gallivan, who was one of the principals at the acclaimed Pass & Provisions once nearby – in the space now housing Bludorn – that turned out some good pizzas among its many adept preparations. The pizzas here are different than what I remember from Provisions, but superb. Better, in fact. It begins with the crust, of course, the platform for each of the individually sized pizzas. These are puffy, with a slightly raised crown at its edges and a bottom that is nicely charred even though cooked in a gas oven. The crusts are light and flavorful throughout, with a welcome fresh taste that is delicious to the last bite, something that’s not true for most pizzas. These have had the nimbleness and similar quality to a number of top-notch pizzas I had in Italy last summer, if in a different style from those.
 
The pizzas come in a choice among a half-dozen intelligent and enticing topping combinations. The minimalist Mozzarella, also with tomato sauce and basil leaves, is its version of the classic margherita that’s an easy order. The Guanciale featuring thin slices of that cured pork jowl complemented by plenty of caramelized red onions and black pepper is another star. Another one is the seemingly popular Chorizo that’s a bit of a taste of Spain, with the Spanish sausage, Mahon cheese and piquillo peppers all under a bed of bitter arugula. There’s one centered around smoked mushrooms, and another with tomatoes both sliced and sauced with Calabrian chiles. It’s tough to go wrong with any of the six options, though the Mortadella, with vinegared onions and a pistachio pesto, mozzarella and tomato sauce was wetter than it should have been on a recent visit, though still very enjoyable.
 
In a big city with a deficit of quality pizzerias, the terrific pizzas are a start and a draw for many, but this, a smart, comfy place will appeal to frequent diners even when not in the mood for pizza. The cooling crudos are mostly seafood including East Coast oysters on the half-shell and four appealing and unique combinations: tuna with pistachio and ‘nduja spice; smoked kampachi with pumpkin seeds and a Japanese flavors; snapper with pickled mangos, olives and chile peppers; and the Italian mint nepitella-cured salmon with apples and hazelnut. And also a take on steak tartare, a dish that has become more commonly seen here again.
 
The third section of the succinct main menu, Starters, have proven to be useful complements to the pizzas on many tables, a gorgeous Caesar salad, spicy cucumbers, arancini, and sausage done saltimbocca-style with prosciutto and sage. It also has the one sandwich, The Hoagie, a New York-inspired sub with the Philly name, charmingly arrives wrapped in paper, cut in half and served on a small plate. It’s mortadella, spicy hot coppa, slices of provolone and pickled vegetables, with the liquid seeping into the fresh and terrific house-made bun that’s densely topped with sesame seeds. It’s the best sandwich I’ve had in the while, and making for a near-perfect lunch the other weekday. There’s also a trio of desserts, if you’ve got room, takes on tiramisu and panna cotta along with a very fun, chocolate-shelled soft serve.
 
Near where Montrose blends into Midtown and just a block or so from Cuchara and where Fairview’s lane widen and then double in number and turn into Tuam – be careful when crossing the street from its parking lot – the small L-shaped interior with banquettes, small tables and a bar area is filled with tight spaces, but the vibe is definitely comfortable, but more. There’s a greenish hue to the place and amusing wallpaper festooned with silhouettes of jumping rabbits, swallows, turtles and butterflies amidst dangling vines. Quaint and attractive.
 
You can enjoy yourself here without even partaking in the output of its serious kitchen. There’s a full bar and an earnest cocktail program led by a slew of house creations all bearing the name of a Springsteen song. The wine program is Italian-heavy and very food friendly. Of the almost thirty wines, two dozen are Italian including a half-dozen from Piedmont, four Nebbiolos and a Sauvignon from the Collio There is even the current vintage of the usually good, Ampeleia Unlitro, a tart, Grenache-heavy blend from the Tuscan coast that pleasingly comes with a third more wine than the typical bottling. Most bottles are priced in the $50 to $60 range with nothing reaching three digits, something welcome these days. There’s also some choices of amaro if you’ve happened to eat too many slices of pizza.
 
There’s noticeable Italian subtext throughout, Italian done well. In addition to the pizzas and pastas Gallivan once created at Pass & Provisions, he worked kitchens at acclaimed Italian restaurants in Manhattan that had three stars (out of four) from The New York Times, Fiamma and Alto, following in the shoes of top chefs Scott Conant and then Michael White in heading the kitchen of the latter. The New York roots are evident, too. If you look hard, you can spot a small figurine of Don Mattingly that’s mounted in a place of honor in a case at the end of the bar.
 
Elro is an easy place to like, especially if you like good pizza, that’s bound to be even more likeable once food and drink can comfortably be consumed in its outside.
 
Elro
2405 Genesee (at Fairview), 77006
elrohtx.com

The Guanciale pizza at Elro

As someone who dines out very frequently, maybe too frequently, and having a desire to try new places or revisit ones that I haven’t been in a while, I often have to check if a particular restaurant is open during those times when many might be closed: Saturday for lunch; Sunday for dinner; Monday lunch and Monday dinner.  So, I put together a list of Houston restaurants – notable and not – about 750 different locations in all, highlighting whether or not each is open during those times.
 
It might be useful.
 
The restaurants are listed alphabetical within each letter.
 
# – 100% Taquito,  51Fifteen
 
A – a'Bouzy,  Acme Oyster House,  Aga's,  Aiko,  Al Aseel,  Aladdin (both locations),  Alice Blue,  Al's Quick Stop (both locations),  Ambrosia,  Amore,  Andes Café (Post Market),  Andiron,  Armandos,  Artisans,  Avesta Persian Grill,  Azuma
 
B – B&B Butchers,  B.B. Lemon,  B.B. Italia,  Baguette and Tea (Montrose),  Banana Leaf,  Bari,  Barnaby's (Fountainview),  Barnaby's (Heights),  Barnaby's (Midtown),  Barnaby's (Montrose),  Barnaby's (Museum District),  Barnaby's (River Oaks),  Barnaby's (Spring Branch),  Bayou City Seafood & Pasta,  BB's (all locations),  BCN,  Becks Prime (all locations but Downtown),  Benny Chows,  Better Luck Tomorrow,  Bijan,  Birraporetti's (both locations),  Bistro Le Cep,  Black Walnut Café (all locations),  Blind Goat,   Bloom & Bee,  Bludorn,  Blue Nile,  Blue Onyx,   Boheme,  Bori,  Bosscat,  Brasil,  Brasserie 19,  Brasserie du Parc,  Brenner's (both locations),
 
C –  Cadillac Bar,  Café Express (all locations),  Café Lili,  Café Piquet,  Cali,  Candente,  Cantina Barba,  Capital Grille (both locations),  Carrabba's (Kirby),  Carrabba's (Voss),  Chama Gaucha,  Chavez,  ChopnBlok (Post Market),  Christian's Tailgate (all locations),  Churrascos (all locations),  Chuy's (all locations)  Ciro's,  Coltivare,  Common Bond (19th Street),  Common Bond (Dunlavy),  Cooking Girl (all locations),  Coppa,  Craft Pita (both locations),  Crawfish & Noodles (Chinatown),  Crisp,  Cultivated
 
D – Da Gama,  Dak & Bop,   D'Amico's,  Darband Shihkabob,  Davanti,  Del Frisco's,  Diana Grill,   Dimassi's Mediterranean Buffet,  Dish Society (Heights),  Dish Society (Katy),  Dish Society (Memorial),  Doris Metropolitan,  Duck N Bao (both locations)
 
E – East Side King (Post Market),  Eddie V's (both locations),  Eight Row Flint (both locations),  El Big Bad,  El Charro Bar & Grill,  El Meson,  El Patio,  El Rey (all locations),  El Tiempo (all locations),  Eloise Nichols,  Ember & Greens,  Empire Café,  Empire Turkish Grill,  Escalante's (all locations),  Etoile,  Eugene's,  Eunice
 
F – Fadi's (all locations),  Fat Bao,  Federal Grill (all locations),  Fields & Tides,  Figo Sugo (Bravery Chef Hall),  Fiore,  Fleming's (all locations),  Flora,  FM Kitchen,  Fogo de Chau,  Fratelli's,  Fuad's,  Fufu Café
 
G – Gen Korean BBQ (both locations),  Georgia James,  Golfstrømmen (Post Market),  Good Dog,  Goode Co. BBQ (all locations),  Goode Co. Cantina (all locations),  Goode Co. Seafood (both locations),  Goode Co. Taqueria,  Gorditas Aguascalientes (both locations),  Govinda's,  Grace's,  Graffiti Raw,  Grimaldi's (all locations),  Grotto (both locations),  Guadalajara (all locations),  Gus's Famous Fried Chicken (both locations)
 
H – Hai Cang Harbor,  Handie's Douzo (both locations),  Hando,  Harold's in the Heights,  Hawker Street Food (Post Market),  Hearsay (all locations),  Hem,  Henderson & Kane,  Hillstone,  Hobbit Café,  Home Slice Pizza,  Hughie's (both locations),  Hu's Cooking,  Huynh
 
I – India's,  Irma's Southwest
 
J – Jasmine,  Joey Uptown,  Jonathan's The Rub (both locations,  Josephine's,  Jun
 
K – Karbach Brewing and Restaurant,  Karne,  Kasra,  Kata Robata,  Katz's (all locations),  Kenny & Ziggy's,  Killen's STQ,  Kim Son (all locations),  Kokoro (Bravery Chef Hall),  Kuu
 
L – La Calle (both locations),  La Fisheria,  La Griglia,  La Hacienda (both locations),  La Lucha,  La Mexicana,  Lao Sze Chuan (both locations),  Laurenzo's,  Le Colonial,  Le Jardinier,  Lea Jane's Hot Chicken (Post Market),  Lee's Sandwiches,  Liberty Kitchen (both locations),  Local Foods (all locations),  Loch Bar,  Lopez (both locations),  Loro,  Lost & Found,  Low Tide,  Lulu's,  Luna Pizza (all locations),  Lupe Tortilla (all locations),  Lynn's Steakhouse
 
M – MAD,  Maderas,  Maine-ly Sandwiches,  Mai's,  Mala Sichuan (all locations),  Mama's Kitchen,  argaux's Oyster Bar (Bravery Chef Hall),  Marmo,  Mary'z (both locations),  Masraff's,  Mastro's,  McCormick & Schmick's (all locations),  McGonigel's Mucky Duck,  Melange Creperie,  Mia's Table (all locations),  Molina's (all locations),  Money Cat,  Morton's (both locations),  Mucho Mexico,  Musafeer
 
N – Navy Blue,  Niko Niko's (all locations),  Ninfa's (both locations),  Nirvana,  Nobu,  North Italia
 
O – Oceanaire,  Oheya,  Oishii,  On the Kirb (all locations),  Oporto,  Osso & Kristalla,  Ouisie's Table
 
P – Palazzo's (both locations),  Pappa Geno's (all locations),  Pappadeaux (all locations),  Pappas Bros. Steakhouse (both locations),  Pappas Burgers,  Pappasito's (all locations),  Pastore,  Peaky Grinders,  Peking Cuisine,  Peking Impression,  Pepper Twins (all locations),  Perry's (all locations),  Phat Eatery,  Pho Binh (Galleria),  Pho Binh (Heights),  Pho Diem,  Piola (both locations),  Pizzitola's,  Ploughman's Deli & Café,  Pondicheri,  Porta'Vino (Washington),  Post Oak Grill (Galleria),  Potente,  Prego
 
R – RA Sushi (both locations),  Ragin' Cajun (both locations),  Ramen Tatsu-ya,  Red Lion,  Relish,  Reza Persian Grill,  Riel,  Rim Tanon,  Roma,  Romano's Pizza,  Roost,  Roostar (all locations),  Rosalie, Rudyard's,  Ruggles Black,  Ruth's Chris
 
S – Saint Arnold Beer Garden & Restaurant, Sal y Pimienta, Saldivia's, Saltillo, Sao Lao Thai Café, Seco's Latin Cuisine,  Segari's,  Seoul Garden,  Shake Shack (all locations),  Shandy's,  Shawarma King,  Sinh Sinh,  Soma,  Songkran,  Soto,  Soto's Cantina (both locations),  Southern Yankee Crafthouse,  Southwell's (all locations),  Spanish Flowers (all locations),  State Fare,  State of Grace,  Steak 48,  Street to Kitchen Thai,  Superica,  Sushi by Hidden,  Sylvia's Enchilada Kitchen (both locations)
 
T – Taco Fuego (all locations),  Tacodeli,  Tacos A Go Go (all locations but Downtown),  Tacos del Julio (both locations),  Tan Tan,  Taqueria Arandas (all locations),  Taqueria Cancun,  Taste of Nigeria,  Taste of Texas,  Thai Kun (Post Market),  The Annie,  The Burger Joint (all locations),  The Grove,  The Halal Guys (all locations),  The Lemon Tree,  The Nash,  The Palm,  The Pit Room,  The Rice Box (all but Greenway Plaza),  The Taco Stand,  The Union Kitchen (all but Garden Oaks),  The Warwick,  Theodore Rex,  Thirteen,  Tim Ho Wan,  Tonight & Tomorrow,  Torchy's Tacos (all locations),  Toro Toro,  Toulouse,  Trattoria Sofia,  Traveler's Table,  Tres Tacos,  Trill Burgers,  Truluck's
 
U – Uberrito (all locations),  Uchi,  Uchiko,  Urbe
 
V – Velvet Taco (all locations),   Verde Garden,  Vic & Anthony's,  Vieng Thai,  Vietopia
 
W – Wanna Bao,  Willie G's,  Winnie's
 
Y – Yi Peng
 
Z – Zanti,  Zutro

A dramatic dish at BCN

This is the third of four.  As someone who dines out very frequently, maybe too frequently, and having a desire to try new places or revisit ones that I haven’t been in a while, I often have to check if a particular restaurant is open during those times when many might be closed: Saturday for lunch; Sunday for dinner; or Monday for either lunch and dinner.  So, I put together a list of Houston restaurants, about 750 different locations in all, highlighting whether or not each is open during those times. 
 
I thought that this might be of interest to others and posted this – the spreadsheet I created didn’t work with my simple website – with the last one coming soon.
 
The restaurants are listed alphabetical within each letter.
 
# – 100% Taquito,  51Fifteen,  7Taco
 
A – a'Bouzy,  Acme Oyster House, Aga's,  Al Aseel,  Aladdin (both locations),  Alice Blue,  Al's Quick Stop (both locations),  Amore,  Andes Café (Post Market),  Angelo'z,  Anonymous Café,  Artisans,  Avalon Diner (Memorial),  Avalon Diner (River Oaks),  Avalon Diner (Stafford),  Avesta Persian Grill,  Azuma
 
B – B&B Butchers,  B.B. Lemon,  B.B. Italia,  Baguette and Tea (both locations), Banana Leaf,  Bari,  Barnaby's (all locations),  Bayou City Seafood & Pasta,  BB's (all locations),  Becks Prime  (all locations),  Benny Chows,  Better Luck Tomorrow,  Bijan,  Birraporetti's (both locations),  Bistro Le Cep,  Black Walnut Café (all locations),  Bloom & Bee,  Blue Nile,  Blue Onyx,  Bori,  Bosscat,  Brasil,  Brasserie 19,  Brasserie du Parc,  Brown Bag Deli (all locations)
 
C – Cadillac Bar,  Café Express (all locations),  Café Leonelli (Glassell School),  Café Lili,  Café Piquet,  Cali,  Candente,  Cantina Barba,  Capital Grille (CityCentre),  Carrabba's (Kirby),  Carrabba's (Voss),  Chama Gaucha,  Champ Burger,  Chavez,  ChopnBlok (Post Market),  Christian's Tailgate (all locations),  Churrascos (all locations),  Chuy's (all locations),  Ciro's,  Common Bond (all locations),  Cooking Girl (all locations),  Coppa,  Craft Pita (both locations),  Crisp,  Cultivated
 
D – Da Gama,  Dak & Bop,  D'Amico's,  Dandelion Café,  Darband Shihkabob,  Davanti,  Del Frisco's,  Dimassi's Mediterranean Buffet,  Dish Society (all locations),  Don Café (both locations),  Duck N Bao (both locations)
 
E – East Side King (Post Market),  Eight Row Flint (Heights),  El Charro Bar & Grill,  El Meson,  El Patio,  El Rey (all locations),  El Tiempo (all locations),  Eloise Nichols,  Ember & Greens,  Empire Café,  Empire Turkish Grill,  Escalante's (all locations),  Etoile,  Eugene's,  Eunice
 
F – Fadi's (all locations),  Fat Bao,  Federal Grill (all locations),  Feges BBQ (Greenway Plaza),  Fields & Tides,  Figo Sugo (Bravery Chef Hall),  Flora,  FM Kitchen,  Fogo de Chau,  Fratelli's,  Fuad's,  Fufu Café
 
G – Gatlin's BBQ,  Gen Korean BBQ (both locations),  Golfstrømmen (Post Market),  Good Dog,  Goode Co. BBQ (all locations),  Goode Co. Cantina (all locations),  Goode Co. Seafood (both locations),  Goode Co. Taqueria,  Gorditas Aguascalientes (both locations),  Govinda's,  Grace's,  Graffiti Raw,  Grimaldi's (all locations),  Grotto (both locations),  Guadalajara (all locations),  Guard and Grace,  Gus's Famous Fried Chicken (both locations)
 
H – Hai Cang Harbor,  Handie's Douzo (both locations),  Hando,  Harold's in the Heights,  Hawker Street Food (Post Market),  Hearsay (all locations),  Hem,  Henderson & Kane,  Hillstone,  Hobbit Café,  Home Slice Pizza,  Hughie's (both locations),  Hull & Oak,  Hu's Cooking,  Huynh
 
I – India's,  Irma's,  Irma's Southwest
 
J – Jasmine,  Joey Uptown,  Jonathan's The Rub (both locationsm),  Josephine's
 
K – Karbach Brewing and Restaurant,  Kasra,  Kata Robata,  Katz's (all locations),  Kenny & Ziggy's,  Killen's,  Kim Son (all locations),  Kokoro (Bravery Chef Hall),  Kuu
 
L – La Calle (both locations),  La Carreta,  La Chingada,  La Fisheria,  La Griglia,  La Hacienda (both locations),  La Mexicana,  La Plaza,  Lao Sze Chuan (both locations),  Latin Bites,  Laurenzo's,  Le Colonial,  Lea Jane's Hot Chicken (Post Market),  Lee's Sandwiches,  Liberty Kitchen (both locations),  Local Foods (all locations),  Loch Bar,  Lopez (both locations),  Loro,  Lost & Found,  Low Tide,  Lulu's,  Luna Pizza (all locations),  Lupe Tortilla (all locations),  Lynn's Steakhouse
 
M – Maderas,  Maine-ly Sandwiches,  Mai's,  Maison Pucha Bistro,  Mala Sichuan (all locations),  Mama's Kitchen,  Margaux's Oyster Bar (Bravery Chef Hall),  Marmo,  Mary'z (both locations),  Masraff's, McCormick & Schmick's (all locations),  McGonigel's Mucky Duck,  Melange Creperie,  Mia's Table (all locations),  Molina's (all locations),  Money Cat,  Monkey's Tail,  Morton's (Downtown),  Mucho Mexico
 
N – Nielsen's Delicatessen,  Niko Niko's (all locations),  Ninfa's (both locations),  Nippon,  Nirvana,  North Italia
 
O – Ocean Palace,  Oceanaire,  Oishii,  On the Kirb (all locations),  Oporto,  Osso & Kristalla,  Ouisie's Table
 
P – Palazzo's (both locations),  Pappa Geno's (all locations),  Pappadeaux (all locations),  Pappas Burgers,  Pappasito's (all locations),  Paulie's Poboys (both locations),  Peking Cuisine,  Peking Impression,  Pepper Twins (all locations),  Perbacco,  Perry's (Memorial City),  Phat Eatery,  Pho Binh (Galleria),  Pho Binh (Heights),  Pho Binh (Southwest Freeway),  Pho Diem, Piatto,  Piola (both locations),  Pizzitola's,  Ploughman's Deli & Café,  Pondicheri,  Post Oak Grill (both locations),  Prego
 
R – RA Sushi (both locations),  Ragin' Cajun (both locations),  Ramen Tatsu-ya,  Rays Real Pit BBQ Shack,  Relish,  Reza Persian Grill,  Rim Tanon,  Roegel's,  Romano's Pizza,  Roostar (all locations),  Rosalie,  Rudyard's,  Ruggles Black,  Rustika Café
 
S – Saint Arnold Beer Garden & Restaurant,  Sal y Pimienta,  Saldivia's,  Saltillo,  Sao Lao Thai Café,  Segari's,  Seoul Garden,  Shake Shack (all locations),  Shandy's,  Shawarma King,  Sinh Sinh,  Solecita,  Soma,  Songkran,  Soto,  Soto's Cantina (both locations),  Southern Yankee Crafthouse,  Southwell's (all locations),  Spanish Flowers (all locations),  State Fare,  Street to Kitchen Thai,  Superica,  Sylvia's Enchilada Kitchen (both locations)
 
T – Taco Fuego (all locations),  Tacodeli,  Tacos A Go Go (all locations,  Tacos del Julio (both locations),  Tan Tan,  Taqueria Arandas (all locations),  Taqueria Cancun,  Taste of Mulan,  Taste of Nigeria,  Taste of Texas,  Thai Kun (Post Market),  The Annie,  The Breakfast Klub,  The Burger Joint (all locations),  The Grove,  The Halal Guys (all locations),  The Lemon Tree,  The Nash,  The Nickel Sandwich Grill,  The Palm,  The Pit Room,  The Rice Box (all locations),  The Taco Stand,  The Union Kitchen (all but Garden Oaks),  The Warwick,  Thien An,  Tim Ho Wan,  Tonight & Tomorrow,  Torchy's Tacos (all locations),  Toro Toro,  Toulouse,  Trattoria Sofia,  Tres Tacos,  Trill Burgers,  Truluck's
 
U – Uberrito (all locations),  Urban Eats,  Urbe
 
V – Velvet Taco (all locations),   Verde Garden,  Vieng Thai,  Vietopia
 
W – Wanna Bao,  Willie G's,  Winnie's
 
Y – Yi Peng
 
Z – Zen Izakaya,  Zutro,  Zydeco

Why not start the work week off with some delicious fried chicken at Gus's

This is the second of four.  As someone who dines out very frequently, maybe too frequently, and having a desire to try new places or revisit ones that I haven’t been in a while, I often have to check if a particular restaurant is open during those times when many might be closed: Saturday for lunch; Sunday for dinner; or Monday for either lunch and dinner.  So, I put together a list of Houston restaurants, about 750 different locations in all, highlighting whether or not each is open during those times. 
 
I thought that this might be of interest to others and wrote this post – the spreadsheet I created didn’t work with my simple website – with the other two coming.
 
The restaurants are listed alphabetical within each letter. 
 
# – 100% Taquito,  5Kinokawa,  93 Till
 
A – a'Bouzy,  Acme Oyster House,  Aga's,  Aiko,  Al Aseel,  Aladdin (both locations),  Al's Quick Stop (both locations),  Ambrosia,  Amore,  Andes Café (Post Market),  Andiron,  Armandos,  Arturo Boada Cuisine,  Avesta Persian Grill,  Aya Sushi,  Azuma
 
B – B&B Butchers,  B.B. Lemon,  B.B. Italia,  Baguette and Tea (Montrose),  Banana Leaf,  Bari,  Barnaby's (Fountainview),  Barnaby's (Heights),  Barnaby's (Midtown),  Barnaby's (Montrose),  Barnaby's (Museum District),  Barnaby's (River Oaks),  Barnaby's (Spring Branch),  Bayou City Seafood & Pasta,  BB's (all locations),  Be More Pacific,  Becks Prime (all locations but Downtown ),  Benny Chows,  Better Luck Tomorrow,  Bijan,  Birraporetti's (both locations),  Bisou,  Bistro Menil,  Black Walnut Café (all locations),  Blind Goat,  Bloom & Bee,  Bludorn,  Blue Nile,  Blue Onyx,  Boheme,  Bori,  Bosscat,  Brasil,  Brasserie 19,  Brennan's,  Brenner's (both locations),  Brett's BBQ Shop,  Buffalo Bayou Brewing Restaurant,  Burger Bodega
 
C – Cadillac Bar,  Café Express (all locations),  Café Lili,  Cali,  Candente,  Cantina Barba  Capital Grille (both locations),  Carrabba's (Kirby),  Carrabba's (Voss),  Chama Gaucha,  Chavez, ChopnBlok (Post Market),  Christian's Tailgate (all locations),  Churrascos (all locations),  Chuy's (all locations),  Ciel,  Ciro's,  Coltivare,  Common Bond (19th Street),  Common Bond (Dunlavy),  Cooking Girl (all locations),  Coppa,  Craft Pita (both locations),  Crawfish & Noodles (both locations),  Crisp,  Cuchara,  Cultivated
 
D – Dak & Bop,  D'Amico's,  Darband Shihkabob,  Davanti,  Davis Street,  Del Frisco's,  Diana Grill,  Dimassi's Mediterranean Buffet,  Dinette,  Dish Society (Heights),  Dish Society (Katy),  Dish Society (Memorial),  Duck N Bao (both locations)
 
E – East Side King (Post Market),  Eddie V's (both locations),  Eight Row Flint (both locations),  El Big Bad,  El Charro Bar & Grill,  El Meson,  El Patio,  El Polanquito,  El Rey (all locations),  El Tiempo (all locations),  El Venado,  Eloise Nichols,  Elro,  Ember & Greens,  Empire Café,  Empire Turkish Grill,  Escalante's (all locations),  Etoile,  Eunice
 
F – Fadi's (all locations),  Fat Bao,  Federal Grill (all locations),  Fields & Tides,  Figo Sugo (Bravery Chef Hall),  Fiore,  Fleming's (all locations),  Flora,  FM Kitchen,  Fogo de Chau,  Fuad's,  Fufu Café,  Fung's Kitchen,  Fusion Taco
 
G – Gatsby's Seafood,  Gatsby's Steakhouse,  Gen Korean BBQ (both locations),  Georgia James,  Golfstrømmen (Post Market),  Good Dog,  Goode Co. BBQ (all locations),  Goode Co. Cantina (all locations),  Goode Co. Seafood (both locations),  Goode Co. Taqueria,  Gorditas Aguascalientes (both locations),  Govinda's,  Grace's,  Graffiti Raw,  Gratify,  Grimaldi's (all locations),  Grotto (both locations),  Guadalajara (all locations but Downtown),  Gus's Famous Fried Chicken (both locations)
 
H – Hai Cang Harbor,  Hamsa,  Handie's Douzo (both locations),  Hando,  Harold's in the Heights,  Hawker Street Food (Post Market),  Hearsay (all locations),  Helen Greek,  Hem,  Henderson & Kane,  Hidden Omakase,  Hillstone,  Himalaya,  Hobbit Café,  Home Slice Pizza,  Hugo's,  Hu's Cooking
 
I – Impero Italiano,  India's,  Istanbul Grill,  Izakaya Wa (both locations)
 
J – Jasmine,  Jay's Burgers,  Joey Uptown,  Jonathan's The Rub (I-10),  Josephine's,  Jun
 
K – Karbach Brewing and Restaurant,  Karne,  Kasra,  Kata Robata,  Katz's (all locations),  Kau Ba,  Kenny & Ziggy's,  Khyber,  Killen's,  Kim Son (all locations),  Kiran's,  Kokoro (Bravery Chef Hall),  KP's Kitchen,  Kuu
 
L – La Calle (both locations),  La Chingada,  La Fisheria,  La Griglia,  La Hacienda (both locations),  La Lucha,  La Mexicana, Lao Sze Chuan (both locations),  Laurenzo's,  Le Colonial,  Le Jardinier,  Lea Jane's Hot Chicken (Post Market),  Lee's Sandwiches,  Liberty Kitchen (both locations),  Little's Oyster Bar,  Local Foods (all locations),  Loch Bar,  London Sizzler,  Loro,  Lost & Found,  Low Tide,  Lucy,  Lulu's,  Luna Pizza (all locations),  Lupe Tortilla (all locations)
 
M – MAD,  Maderas, Maine-ly Sandwiches, Maison Pucha Bistro,  Mala Sichuan (all locations),  Mama's Kitchen,  Mapojeong,  Margaux's Oyster Bar (Bravery Chef Hall),  Marmo,  Mary'z (both locations),  Mastrantos,  Mastro's,  McCormick & Schmick's (both locations),  Mein,  Melange Creperie,  Mexico's Deli,  MF Sushi,  Mia's Table (all locations),  Molina's (all locations),  Money Cat,  Monkey's Tail,  Moon Rabbit,  Morton's (Downtown),  Morton's (Galleria),  Mucho Mexico,  Musafeer,  Muse,  Mutiny Wine Room
 
N – Nancy's Hustle,  Navy Blue,  Niko Niko's (all locations),  Ninfa's (both locations),  Nippon,  Nirvana,  Nobie's,  Nobu,  Nonno's,  North Italia
 
O – Oceanaire,  Oheya,  On the Kirb (all locations),  One Dragon,  Oporto,  Osso & Kristalla,  Ostia,  Ouisie's Table
 
P – Palinuro,  Pappadeaux (all locations),  Pappas Burgers,  Pappasito's (all locations),  Pasha,  Pastore,  Peaky Grinders,  Peking Cuisine,  Peking Impression,  Pepper Twins (all locations),  Perry's (all locations),  Phat Eatery,  Pho Binh (Galleria),  Pho Binh (Heights),  Pho Binh (Katy),  Pho Binh by Night,  Piola (both locations),  Pondicheri,  Porta'Vino (Washington),  Poscol,  Prego,  PS-21
 
R – RA Sushi (both locations),  Ragin' Cajun (both locations),  Rainbow Lodge,  Ramen Tatsu-ya,  Red Lion,  Reza Persian Grill,  Roka Akor,  Romano's Pizza,  Roostar (all locations),  Rosalie,  Rosie Cannonball,  Ruth's Chris
 
S – Saigon Pagaloc,  Saint Arnold Beer Garden & Restaurant,  Sal y Pimienta,  San Dong,  Sao Lao Thai Café,  Savoir,  Seco's Latin Cuisine,  Seoul Garden,  Shake Shack (all locations),  Shawarma King,  Sinh Sinh,  Solecita,  Soma,  Songkran,  Soto,  Soto's Cantina (Cypress),  Southern Yankee Crafthouse,  Southwell's (all locations),  Spanish Flowers (all locations),  Squable,  State Fare,  State of Grace,  Steak 48,  Superica,  Sushi by Hidden,  Sylvia's Enchilada Kitchen (both locations)
 
T – Taco Fuego (all locations),  Tacodeli,  Tacos A Go Go (all locations but Downtown),  Tacos del Julio (both locations),  Tan Tan,  Taqueria Arandas (all locations),  Taqueria Cancun,  Taste of Mulan,  Taste of Nigeria,  Taste of Texas,  Thai Kun (Post Market),  The Annie,  The Boot,  The Burger Joint (all locations),  The Gypsy Poet (both locations),  The Halal Guys (all locations),  The Lemon Tree,  The Palm,  The Pit Room,  The Raven Grill,  The Rice Box (all but Greenway Plaza),  The Taco Stand,  The Union Kitchen (all locations),  The Warwick,  Theodore Rex,  Thirteen,  Tim Ho Wan,  Tiny Champions,  Toasted Coconut,  Tonight & Tomorrow,  Torchy's Tacos (all locations),  Toro Toro,  Toulouse,  Trattoria Sofia,  Traveler's Table,  Tres Tacos,  Trill Burgers,  Truluck's,  Turkey Leg Hut
 
U – Uberrito (all locations),  Uchi,  Uchiko,  Ume
 
V – Velvet Taco (all locations),  Verandah,  Verde Garden,  Vic & Anthony's,  Vieng Thai,  Vietopia
 
W – Wanna Bao,  Warehouse 72,  Willie G's,  Winnie's
 
X – Xin Chao
 
Y – Yi Peng
 
Z – Zanti,  Zen Izakaya,  Zutro

The osso buco at Carrabba's

As someone who dines out very frequently, maybe too frequently, and having a desire to try new places or revisit ones that I haven’t been in a while, I often have to check if a particular restaurant is open during those times when many might be closed: Saturday for lunch; Sunday for dinner; or Monday for either lunch and dinner.  So, I put together a list of Houston restaurants, about 750 different locations in all, highlighting whether or not each is open during those times. 
 
I thought that this might be of interest to others and wrote this post – the spreadsheet I created didn’t work with my simple website – with ones about the other three coming.
 
The restaurants are listed alphabetical within each letter.  The nicer restaurants are likely serving brunch.
 
# – 100% Taquito,  51Fifteen,  7 Taco, 93 Till
 
A –  a'Bouzy,  Acme Oyster House,  Aga's,  Al Aseel,  Aladdin (both locations),  Alice Blue,  Al's Quick Stop (both locations),  Amalfi,  Ambrosia,  Amore,  Andes Café (Post Market),  Angelo'z,  Anonymous Café,  Armadillo Palace,  Avalon Diner (all locations),  Avesta Persian Grill,  Aya Sushi,  Azuma
 
B – B&B Butchers,  B.B. Lemon,  B.B. Italia,  Backstreet Café (Montrose),  Badolina Bakery & Café,  Baguette and Tea (both locations),  Banana Leaf,  Bari,  Barnaby's (all locations),  Bayou City Seafood & Pasta,  BB's (all locations),  Be More Pacific,  Becks Prime  (all locations but Downtown ),  Benny Chows,  Better Luck Tomorrow,  Bijan,  Birraporetti’s (both locations),  Bisou,  Bistro Menil,  Black Walnut Café (all locations),  Blood Bros. BBQ,  Bloom & Bee,  Blue Nile,  Blue Onyx,  Boheme,  Bori,  Bosscat,  Brasil,  Brasserie 19,  Brasserie du Parc,  Brennan's,  Brett's BBQ Shop,  Brisket & Rice,  Brown Bag Deli (Heights),  Brown Bag Deli (Medical Center),  Brown Bag Deli (Rice Village),  Buffalo Bayou Brewing Restaurant,  Burger Bodega,  Burger-Chan,  Burn's Burger Shack,  Burn's Original BBQ
 
C – Cadillac Bar,  Café Brussels,  Café Express (all locations),  Café Leonelli (Kinder Building),  Café Lili,  Café Piquet,  Café Rabelais,  Cali,  Candente,  Cantina Barba,  Caracol,  Carrabba's (Kirby),  Carrabba's (Voss),  Chama Gaucha,  Chavez,  ChopnBlok (Post Market),  Christian's Tailgate (all locations),  Churrascos (all locations),  Chuy's (all locations),  Ciel,  Ciro's,  Common Bond (19th Street),  Common Bond (Dunlavy),  Common Bond (Garden Oaks),  Common Bond (White Oak),  Cooking Girl (all locations),  Coppa,  Craft Pita (both locations),  Crawfish & Noodles (both locations),  Crisp,  Cuchara,  Cucharita,  Cultivated
 
D – Da Gama,  Dak & Bop,  D'Amico's,  Dandelion Café,   Darband Shihkabob,  Davanti,  Dimassi's Mediterranean Buffet,  Dinette,  Dish Society (all locations),  Don Café (both locations),  Duck N Bao (both locations),  Dumpling Haus,
 
E – East Side King (Post Market),  Eight Row Flint (both locations),  El Charro Bar & Grill,  El Meson,  El Patio,   El Polanquito,  El Rey (all locations),  El Tiempo (all locations),  El Topo,  El Venado,  Eloise Nichols,  Elro,  Ember & Greens,  Empire Café,  Empire Turkish Grill,  Escalante's (all locations),  Etoile,  Eugene's,  Eunice
 
F – Fadi's (all locations),  Fat Bao,  Federal Grill (all locations),  Feges BBQ (Spring Branch),  Fields & Tides,  Figo Sugo (Bravery Chef Hall),  Fiore,  Flora,  FM Kitchen,  Fogo de Chau,  French Riviera Bakery Café,  Fufu Café,  Fung's Kitchen,  Fusion Taco
 
G – Gatlin's BBQ,  Gen Korean BBQ (both locations),  Golfstrømmen (Post Market),  Good Dog,  Goode Co. BBQ (all locations),  Goode Co. Cantina (all locations),  Goode Co. Seafood (both locations),  Goode Co. Taqueria,  Gorditas Aguascalientes (both locations),  Govinda's,  Grace's,  Graffiti Raw,  Gratify,  Grimaldi's (all locations),  Grotto (both locations),  Guadalajara (all locations),  Gus's Famous Fried Chicken (both locations)
 
 H – Hai Cang Harbor,  Hamsa,  Handie's Douzo (both locations),  Hando,  Harold's in the Heights,  Hawker Street Food (Post Market),  Hearsay (all locations),  Helen Greek,   Hem,  Henderson & Kane,  Hillstone,  Himalaya,  Hobbit Café,   Home Slice Pizza,  Hughie's (both locations),  Hugo's,  Hull & Oak,  Hu's Cooking,  Huynh
 
I – Impero Italiano,  India's,  Irma's Southwest,  Istanbul Grill,  Izakaya Wa (both locations)
 
J – Jasmine,  Jay's Burgers,  J-Bar-M Barbecue,  Joey Uptown,  Jonathan's The Rub (Memorial),  Josephine's
 
K – Karbach Brewing and Restaurant,  Kasra,  Kata Robata,  Katz's (all locations),  Kau Ba,  Kenny & Ziggy's,  Killen's,  Kim Son (all locations),  Kiran's,  Kokoro (Bravery Chef Hall),  Kolache Shoppe (both locations),  KP's Kitchen,  Kriti Kitchen
 
L – La Calle (both locations),  La Carreta,  La Chingada,  La Fisheria,  La Guadalupana,  La Hacienda (both locations),  La Lucha,  La Mexicana,  La Plaza,  La Sicilia,  Lao Sze Chuan (both locations),  Latin Bites,  Le Colonial,  Le Jardinier,  Lea Jane's Hot Chicken (Post Market),  Lee's Sandwiches,  Liberty Kitchen (both locations),  Local Foods (all locations),  Loch Bar,  London Sizzler,  Lopez (both locations),  Loro,  Lost & Found,  Low Tide,  Lucille's,  Lucy,  Lulu's,  Luna Pizza (all locations),  Lupe Tortilla (all locations)
 
M – MAD,  Maderas,  Maine-ly Sandwiches,  Mai's,  Maison Pucha Bistro,  Mala Sichuan (all locations),  Mama's Kitchen,  Mapojeong,  Margaux's Oyster Bar (Bravery Chef Hall),  Marmo,  Mary'z (both locations),  McCormick & Schmick's (CityCentre),  McCormick & Schmick's (Uptown),  McGonigel's Mucky Duck,  Mein,  Melange Creperie,  Mexico's Deli,  Mia's Table (all locations),  Mimo,  Molina's (all locations),  Money Cat,  Monkey's Tail,  Moon Rabbit,  Mucho Mexico,  Musafeer
 
N – Navy Blue,  Nielsen's Delicatessen,  Niko Niko's (all locations),  Ninfa's (both locations),  Nippon,  Nirvana,  North Italia,  Nundini
 
O – Ocean Palace,  Oishii,  On the Kirb (all locations),  One Dragon,  Oporto,  Osso & Kristalla,  Ostia,  Ouisie's Table
 
P – Pacha Nikkei,  Palazzo's (Westchase),  Pappa Geno's (Fort Bend),  Pappa Geno's (Garden Oaks),  Pappa Geno's (Katy),  Pappa Geno's (Montrose),  Pappadeaux (all locations),  Pappas Burgers,  Pappasito's (all locations),  Pasha,  Paulie's Poboys (both locations),  Peaky Grinders,  Peking Cuisine,  Peking Impression,  Pepper Twins (all locations),  Phat Eatery,  Pho Binh (Chinatown),  Pho Binh (Galleria),  Pho Binh (Heights),  Pho Binh (Katy),  Pho Binh (Southwest Freeway),  Pho Binh Trailer,  Pho Diem,  Piola (both locations),  Pizzitola's,  Ploughman's Deli & Café,  Polanquito,  Pondicheri,  Prego,  PS-21
 
R – RA Sushi (both locations),  Ragin' Cajun (both locations),  Ramen Tatsu-ya,  Rays Real Pit BBQ Shack,  Red Lion,  Relish,  Reza Persian Grill,  Rim Tanon,  Roegel's,   Romano's Pizza,  Roostar (all locations),  Rosalie,  Rosie Cannonball,  Rudyard's,  Ruggles Black,  Rustika Café
 
S – Saigon Pagaloc,  Saint Arnold Beer Garden & Restaurant,  Sal y Pimienta,  Saltillo,  San Dong,  Sao Lao Thai Café,  Savoir,  Seco's Latin Cuisine,  Seoul Garden,  Shake Shack (all locations),  Shandy's,  Shawarma King,  Sinh Sinh,  Solecita,  Soma,  Songkran,  Soto,  Soto's Cantina (both locations),  Southern Yankee Crafthouse,  Southwell's (all locations),  Spanish Flowers (all locations),  State Fare,  Superica,  Sylvia's Enchilada Kitchen (both locations)
 
T – Taco Fuego (all locations),   Tacodeli,  Tacos A Go Go (all locations but Downtown),  Tacos del Julio (both locations),  Tan Tan,  Taqueria Arandas (all locations),  Taqueria Cancun,  Taste of Mulan,  Taste of Nigeria,  Thai Kun (Post Market),  The Annie,  The Boot,  The Breakfast Klub,  The Burger Joint (all locations),  The Halal Guys (all locations),  The Lemon Tree,  The Original Marini's Empanada House,  The Pit Room,  The Rice Box (all but Greenway Plaza),  The Taco Stand,  The Union Kitchen (all locations),  The Warwick,  Thien An,  Thirteen,  Tim Ho Wan,  Tiny Boxwoods,  Tiny's No. 5,  Tio Trompo,  Toasted Coconut,  Tonight & Tomorrow,  Torchy's Tacos (all locations),  Toro Toro,  Toulouse,  Trattoria Sofia,  Traveler's Table,  Tres Tacos,  Trill Burgers,  Truluck's,  Truth BBQ,  Turkey Leg Hut
 
U – Uberrito (all locations),   Underbelly Burger,  Urban Eats,   Urbe
 
V – Velvet Taco (all locations),  Verde Garden,  Vieng Thai,  Vietopia
 
W – Wanna Bao,  Warehouse 72,  Weights and Measures,  Wild Oats,  Winnie's
 
X – Xochi
 
Y – Yi Peng
 
Z – Zanti,   Zen Izakaya,  Zutro

A tempting dish at Mein

Houston Restaurant Weeks (HRW) is nearly upon us. It all begins on Tuesday, August 1 and runs through Monday, September 4, Labor Day. The annual event has raised nearly $19 million since its inception in 2003 and benefits the Houston Food Bank, the country’s largest food bank, which provides assistance to thousands every week. During HRW this year, restaurants will donate $3 per lunch and brunch meal ordered from an HRW menu, and $5 for a $39 dinner and $7 for a $55 one. Dining out for HRW is a fun and easy way to help the disadvantaged in our community. Dining out also helps the restaurants and their staff in what was, before the advent of HRW, one of the slowest times of the year for area restaurants.
 
Below are my top picks for this year listed alphabetically. I’ll probably stray to others, too, as there are many appealing HRW menus.
 
Bistro Menil – New American – Lunch, $25, Dinner, $55 – Two courses are offered lunch beginning with its excellent crab cake that’s paired with a caper and cornichon mayonnaise or the duck confit-topped salad also with pear and spiced pecans, and then one of three three desserts: a lemon tart, a Basque cheesecake, and the favorite crème brûlée. Dinner has three courses that might commence on a blistering evening with the Watermelon and Cucumber Salad then a choice from trio of entrées like Grilled Shrimp Skewer with pineapple and salsa verde or Crispy Duck Confit and after, those desserts. I’ve had good luck during HRW here in the past.
 
Brennan’s – Creole – Lunch, $25, Dinner, $55 – Lunch is the most interesting, with three course for $25 that can include the turtle soup, a sandwich, salad or a pulled pork Benedict and dessert that might be Creole Bread Pudding. And during lunchtime, martinis are just a quarter. These are about two-thirds the size of what’s typical and the supposed limit is just three, but it’s really not a bad deal and something to keep in mind when there’s not much to do in the afternoon. Dinner is nearly as enticing.
 
Carrabba’s (Kirby and Voss locations) – Italian-American – Lunch, $25, Dinner, $39 – Houston’s favorite and best Italian-American outposts – the two original ones owned and run by the Johnny Carrabba and mom – are an especially fine value for HRW lunch for its robustly flavored, familiar fare. The three courses should start with fried calamari spiced with pepperoncini then on to its terrific House Salad and a choice between a couple rich pasta preparations or the Salmon Arugula Salad that’s tossed in a honey balsamic vinaigrette with Mandarin oranges wedges.
 
Da Gama – Indian – Lunch, $25, Dinner, $39 – There are three courses at night for just $39 that can be centered on Peanut Chicken Tikka, Gulf shrimp in a tangy Goan-style tamarind sauce, or a Portuguese coconut Kashmiri chili curry, any of which might make this breezily modern and always-adept Indian even more tempting. Lunch is just two courses, a savory or salad and sweets, and maybe even more of a no-brainer if you can make to the Heights earlier in the day.
 
Etoile – French – Lunch, $25, Dinner, $55 – There are three courses for both lunch and dinner at this tenured French favorite enjoyed for its traditional fare in Uptown, with Maine lobster bisque and beef tartare for both meals. At lunch, the mains are a small filet of sole with capers in brown butter, Coq au Vin with chicken thighs, and French-styled ravioli and risotto preparations. Dinner has more and richer choices, starting with a salad centered by warmed goat cheese en croute, escargot de bourgogne, then on to roasted duck breast or braised beef short ribs. Clafoutis aux nectarines and a couple of other Gallic desserts with almonds provide a sweet finish for each menu.
 
Georgia James – Steak – Dinner, $55 – Three courses at this stylish and somewhat different steakhouse set in a sterile plaza near Buffalo Bayou can begin with its signature Slab Salad highlighted with the deep yellow English Shropshire blue cheese then onto the Hanger Steak that might still be a true onglet steak and finally from a choice from a trio of desserts including a weather-appropriate Pineapple Vacherin.
 
Hamsa – Middle Eastern – Lunch, $25, Dinner, $55 – There’s several cooling dips to start for either meal in this bright stylish space in the Village. The terrific baba ganoush should be one from the salatim, an Israeli array of dips and salads, and there are also a choice of larger portions of hummus including one with ground lamb. Dinner is four courses with vegetarian-centered second a skewer for the third – chicken thighs, tenderloin, shrimp or King Oyster mushrooms – and then one from a trio of desserts. Lunch is a lighter, but with three courses and that’s one of the desserts, too.
 
Hugo’s – Mexican – Dinner, $55 – Dessert should always be on mind at Hugo’s and its siblings, with also-acclaimed sibling Ruben Ortega in charge of the postres. Tarta De Fruta, Tres Leches de Horchata, and Pastel de Chocolate are the HRW dessert choices this year. And you’ve got three appealing courses before that highlighted by a tuna tostada with chipotle mayonnaise, the Filete Oaxaqueño, an eight-ounce petite filet served with mole pasilla, and Pescado a la Veracruzana featuring a seared catch of the day.
 
Indianola – New American – Dinner, $39, Brunch, $25 – Led by executive chef Paul Lewis, likely one of the city’s most underrated toques, the HRW menu this at attractive EaDo spot is an appealing array of locally and seasonally attuned preparations: Mexican-style corn tempered with Tajin, Cotija and lime crema; roasted cherry tomatoes with a miso- and lemon-accented ricotta; Veracruz Grilled Shrimp; Summer Squash Tagliatelle with smoked eggplant in a lemon-butter sauce; then a take on tres leches or Jiffy Pop Baked Alaska for a fun finish.
 
Lucille’s – Southern – Lunch, $25, Dinner, $39 – Three courses for under forty bucks for a dinner at this comfy Museum District stalwart is a certainly an enticement. Gumbo Z'Herbs or Fried Green Tomatoes served with a spicy aioli and goat cheese can start before main plate pleasers like its fried chicken, Shrimp and Grits, or Catfish and Grits, with the fish blackened or fried; and Lemon Icebox Pie, Croissant Bread Pudding or tiramisu to finish. Lunch is two courses: one of the starters and then those Shrimp and Grits or a couple hearty sandwiches.
 
MAD – Spanish – Dinner, $39, Brunch, $25 – The four courses at dinner highlight gastronomic Spain, at least the dishes of the capital, Catalonia and the Basque region with refined versions of traditional items along with some modernist twists. There are four choices for the savory stages and three for dessert. These can be a croqueta or steak tartare at first; tuna tartare or duck salad with fruit and Manchego next; rack of lamb or sauteed shrimp with olive oil and garlic for the entrée; and then on to churros or a brownie version of Basque cheesecake. Always an added attraction here is the city’s most entrancing restaurant bathroom, if a bathroom can be that.
 
Maison Pucha – French – Lunch, $25, Dinner, $55 – Its French bistro theme strays during lunch but the HRW menu is tempting: gazpacho, watermelon salad with goat cheese and mint, Thai chicken salad, and a hefty sixteen-ounce pork shank done osso buco-style and with a Dijon mustard sauce and Cheddar grits. Rainbow trout does receive the Almondine treatment at both lunch and dinner. In the evening there’s also coq au vin with drumsticks and desserts: crepes a l'orange, crème brûlée á la cardamom, or possibly the fruit salad after the pork dish.
 
Musaafer – Indian – Lunch, $25, Dinner, $55 – I had a memorable meal here for HRW last year in what might be the top Indian establishment in the area, certainly the grandest and most beautiful. There’s no dramatic, molecular gastronomy-tricked dessert this year, not even at dinner, and the offerings are a little less generous – a $4 upcharge even for naan or accompanying rice, for example – but the food should be delicious and with a number of crowd-pleasers: chicken seekh kabobs, butter chicken, palak paneer, and Goan fish curry then also a lychee ceviche, char-grilled chicken tikka and laal maas with smoked goat in the evening.
 
Ostia – California Italian – Lunch, $25, Dinner, $55 – A couple of courses are served for the HRW lunch; maybe Caesar Salad or a summery bruschetta then Bucatini Carbonara or a well-turned out white pizza. At dinner, there’s also desserts and heartier main dishes including a version of the famed Barbuto roast chicken. It’s all in a nicely contemporary, breezy setting in the heart of Montrose on Dunlavy.
 
Pappas Bros. Steakhouse (Downtown) – Steak – Dinner, $55 – Arguably the city’s best steakhouse has long done a terrific job for Houston Restaurant Weeks: the offerings, the quality, the value for that quality, service, and setting. The key attraction on the HRW menu is a dry-aged 10-ounce New York strip steak that can be prefaced with a well-crafted Caesar or gumbo featuring turtle and splashed with sherry and then all finished with an excellent key lime pie or New York cheesecake. Though not included in the HRW deal, the remarkably expansive wine list can provide any number of great options to pair with the steak.
 
Picos – Mexican – Lunch, $25, Dinner, $39 – The menus are fine values and with more choices before an upcharge than about any other HRW participant. For dinner, the entrée highlights are chicken breast stewed in a Oaxacan black mole, Carne asada a la tampiqueña, and Pork Shank Carnitas-style. That’s prefaced with a salad, tostada with ceviche or beetroot carpaccio, and finished with one from a quartet of rich desserts. There are two courses for lunch, which can be hearty. You can start with Nachos Jorge that’s topped with cochinita pibil – listed in 500 Things to Eat Before It’s Too Late by the Roadfood couple about a dozen years ago – or a refreshing tostada with ceviche and finish with its excellent spinach enchiladas, tacos al carbon or four other options.
 
PS-21 – French – Lunch, $25, Dinner, $55 – For lunch at Philippe Schmit’s comforting contemporary French bistro, you can get steak frites with a grilled New York strip in a whiskey-peppercorn sauce along with their excellent fries – you’ve got to request accompanying mayonnaise, though – or the Bouchon plate that is a mushroom risotto, a vegetarian croque monsieur bite, and a petite Caesar salad. It’s not-so-weather-appropriate, but the onion soup tempered with sherry might be tough to pass on as a first course. In a similar vein, at dinner, there’s a take on the hefty old school hachis parmentier, braised beef layered with truffle oil whipped potato. Also, a bouillabaisse then a trio of desserts including a classic crêpe suzette.
 
The Lymbar – Pan-Latin – Lunch, $25, Dinner, $39 – A surprising four courses are served for lunch at this playful pan-Latin with strong Middle Eastern notes that’s set in the mixed-use Ion in Midtown. It starts with a choice among empanadas – go with the spinach and cheese or beef kofta – then a salad then an entrée that can be hummus, pasta with chicken, tacos or fried chicken bits and finally a sweet finish that can be the Cordúa-famous tres leches. I imagine the portions will be on the smaller side for all this, but it’s a way to sample a range of the kitchen, at the very least. Dinner is just three courses, but also has a ceviche as a starter and a version of the renowned churrasco over bearnaise sauce and pickled onions.
 
Wild Oats – Texan – Lunch, $25, Dinner, $39 – Three courses for both lunch and dinner with latter just $39 and that can include what is the city’s chicken fried steak – featuring a Wagyu sirloin – shrimp and grits with summertime grilled cork or flank steak fajitas.
 
Xochi – Mexican – Lunch, $25, Dinner, $55 – Hugo Ortega and team’s excellent Oaxacan-themed outpost downtown across from Discovery Green has a welcome eight savory options at lunch like roasted duck tacos and shrimp sautéed with chile de ajo and then choice among desserts, a sorbet with fresh fruit, a coconut chocolate tres leches and a horchata mousse cake. For dinner, there are four courses, a starter to share, another appetizer and a little heftier mains, plus an array of more elaborate desserts.

The chicken fried steak at Wild Oats

Legendary singer and acclaimed interpreter of the Great American Songbook just passed away at age 96.  Here is a little food-related item about Bennett and Houston:
 
In the April 19, 1969 issue of Billboard reported that “Tony Bennett Spaghetti House…the first of the restaurants is scheduled to open in Houston in early August. Five additional units will open in the same city before the end of the year, with dozens more planned in other cities for early 1970.” At least one did open, if briefly, in Town & Country where, “the food was…was very bland,” recalled a rare patron. Lasting longer is, “Benedetto’s, Texas State Hotel, 720 Fannin…a supper club that features an Italian feast, cheek-to-cheek dance music and name Vegas acts,”  run by the singer’s brother, John.
 
The songs of the popular Italian-American singers interpreting the Great American Songbook after the Second World War are a requisite part of the ambiance of Italian-themed restaurants in this country. From that group, oddly, more than Tony Bennett had ties to the city. Vic Damone lived here for years after marrying an oil heiress, and two of three of Frank Sinatra’s kids were married to Houstonians (at least briefly). Nancy Sinatra married singer Tommy Sands – who attended Lanier Junior High and then Lamar High School – in 1960. Frank Sinatra, Jr. married a Houston-area lawyer in 1998. Plus, one of Dean Martin’s very best songs is his 1965 recording of “Houston.”
 
This has been recycled and adapted from my article “A passegiata through Houston’s Italian restaurant history.”

Pete Souza, official White House photographer

Entering the bustling, packed dining room on a recent Tuesday night, even though darkened, I sensed a palpable buzz. A very good sign for a new restaurant, especially midweek, and something I had hoped for when finally visiting Jun, which I thought to give at least a couple months for it to get settled in.
 
On 20th Street east of Heights Boulevard, Jun opened in February as one of this year’s most anticipated new restaurants. It’s led by chefs Evelyn Garcia and Henry Lu, who turned out some tasty and interesting southeast Asian-inspired fare at Kin in the Politan Row food hall in the Rice Village before the pandemic. Then Garcia had a star turn last year on the Top Chef season filmed in Houston, drawing a great deal more attention.
 
There’s quite a lot more here than at Kin, in all regards. The prime draw, the menu, has about fifteen savory items ranging from snacks to starters to larger entrée-sized preparations. There are identifiable notes and inspirations from Thailand, India, Spain, France, the Middle East and, maybe more so, Mexico, a mash-up that works very well in a testament to the insight and experience of the principals and skills in the kitchen. It’s a menu that should resonate with dedicated local diners, of which there are many now in the neighborhood. As with many fairly ambitious restaurants in recent years, items are described mostly by the significant ingredients. These can necessitate explanation from a server. “Lamb curry, pickled daikon, pistachio” is one. This is a lamb shank on the bone in a light curry sauce with some thin slices of daikon radish and a scatter of pistachios, served without accompaniments. Sharing is encouraged for that and all dishes, and a good way to go here. It worked well for my friend Robbin and I.
 
We started with aguachile with Gulf shrimp, a refined take on the piquant Mexican ceviche preparation, also with avocado, taro and shrimp oil. Though a light on the shrimp, the dish was delicious – if not quite like the fiery version once served nearby at Tampico on Airline – and I found myself trying to spoon up the last of the broth in the bowl. Our other starter, a quaint tartlet of small pieces of the beef tartare with toasted rice and egg yolk, was also enjoyable. Roasted heirloom carrots coated in a nutty salsa macha dotted with pieces of a fresh Salvadoran cheese and a couple halves of a tiny, fully cooked quail egg was one of the larger preparations, and the most enticing carrots I’ve had in a while. The lamb shank was the other. Moist and flavorful meat came easily from the bone without need of a knife. The sauce was more-than-pleasant if without the oomph of the Rogan Josh I had at Surya on Durham later in the week; to be expected, actually. Bread would have been welcome with that and the other dishes, but since it didn’t make an appearance, not available, we ordered a side of coconut rice that helped some. We quite enjoyed all four of the dishes, each exhibiting excellent technique with high-quality ingredients and appealing, sensible compositions. Though the portions are on the smaller size, the four items between the two of us left us satiated. And prices are fair.
 
Robbin’s mocktail with a cheeky name, Ginger She Hot, made with ginger, Thai basil, lime, agave spirit and sparkling water was terrific. Surprisingly so. Two were in order and probably a better match for the food than the wines I ordered. Just mocktails and wine- and sake-based cocktails as Jun has only a beer and wine license.
 
On the downside, I found the selection and service of wines to be disappointing. It’s a small list without many wines that I thought were that food-friendly. It was tough to pair any of the dishes with any of the wines, and not because of the diversity of dishes. Odd choices, too. There are a handful of offerings from Mexico including one from Guanajuato for $20 for a glass. I didn’t even know there was wine production there. That was unknown when visiting when my brother lived in the city a couple of decades or so ago and working in the beverage industry. Definitely not worth a flyer for me at the price. My Provencal Peyrassol rosé was expectedly inoffensive to start but not aiding the aguachile or tartare mch. And the second glass, a Spanish garnacha-heavy blend, was little too rough and simple to complement the lamb very much nor the carrots. Then, the wine pours are easily the least generous I’ve encountered in a restaurant in memory. Each seemed like three ounces, maybe, and certainly appeared smaller than the half-pours I had at Camerata later in the week. Full-sized prices at Jun, though.
 
The wine service was a far cry from a recent visit to the also new PS21 where we had a few excellent pairing suggestions from a waiter from a similarly concise, but conversely, nicely chosen list. Its Frenchness is probably part of the wide difference with wines, but a very noticeable one.
 
Most importantly, the food is well-done here and compelling, and served in an attractive and inviting setting. Service is earnest, attentive and proficient enough. Though the preparations are mostly suited for sharing, the bar near the entrance provides a number of seats for the single diner.  I’m looking forward to a second visit to sample some more of the menu, and maybe with a mocktail.
 
Jun
20 E 20th Street (between N. Main and Heights), 77008, (832) 469-7664
junbykin.com

The lamb and carrots the other night at Jun

I enjoyed my first visit to Home Slice, the intentionally kitschy, Austin-bred, New York-style pizza joint that opened a few months ago in Midtown amid a cluster of bars and restaurants in the former space of Monica Pope’s t’afia and Sparrow. It was busy Saturday evening at the restaurant, and tough to find even a stool near the cashier. But the freshly baked pizza was well worth the slight hassle, and service was friendly and efficient and the vibe was fun. There was also a short of list of enticing wines, which pleasantly surprised me, to say the least. All Italian, too.
 
I like wine with pizza, even if wine is not a classic pairing with New York-style pizza. You think a cold beer or a sugary soda water. You don’t think Italian wine. I like it, though, as Italian wines generally go well with food, even if the provenance is actually the city of New York. Here is its list:
 
Whites:

• Luchi Pinot Grigio – $8 per glass / $28 for a bottle
• Calasole Vermentino – $10 / $36
• Botromagno Gravina Bianco – $11.50 / $42
• Giuliana Prosecco – $12.50 / $46
• Saracco Moscato d’Asti (375mL) – $11.50 / $24

 
Reds :

• Pala Silenzi Rosso – $8 / $28 – A Carignano, Monica blend from Sardinia, and value performer
• Nevio Montepulciano d’Abruzzo – $10 / $36
• Coppo L’Avvocata Barbera d’Asti – $11.50 / $42
• Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico – $12.50 / $46
• Allegrini Valpolicella Classico – $13.50 / $48

 
Lambrusco and Rosé:

• Cleto Chiarli Brut de Noir Rosé – $12 / $44
• Vigneto Cialdini Lambrusco – $12 / $44
• Ca’Maiol Chiaretto Rosé – $13 / $47

 
Wanting to give Lambrusco another chance with pizza, I went with the Cleto Chiarli. Not a success for me, but it’s certainly a good wine. My buddy’s Nevio Montepulciano d’Abruzzo was a much better choice with pizza. And I was especially happy to see the Coppo L’Avvocata, as Coppo was my favorite producer among the many I sampled in the Asti area on a trip sponsored by the Barbera d’Asti consortium a few years ago. The Moscato d’Asti consortium was another sponsor of that junket, so I’m more aware of those wines. The balanced Saracco Moscato d’Asti on the menu can be very enjoyable, too, but much more so with a dessert on the menu or just by itself.
 
The quality, food-friendly Italian wines at Home Slice are good to see. Cannisters of oregano joining the ones with red pepper flakes and Parmesan were, too, reminding me of my time in the northeast. Never had a good Italian wine with a New York-style pizza up there, though.
 
Home Slice Pizza
3701 Travis (between Holman and Alabama), (832) 810-7437
homeslicepizza.com/location/houston-midtown/

A little more than a slice from Home Slice on a subsequent visit

Everyone seems to love tacos in some form – there’s even a day of the week for it, the alliterative Tuesday. And there are plenty of places get tacos in Houston, from trucks that have long plied job sites or have found a place to park long term off busy street, at air conditioned taquerias serving broad menus, in out-of-town chains targeting teenagers with funky fillings, at restaurants where tacos are one of the only few Mexican or Tex-Mex items, and in bars which even might have destination-worthy creations.
 
Tacos have become more Mexican, and also less, in recent years. The crispy shelled tacos filled with ground beef, shredded lettuce and shredded cheddar cheese of my youth – the only ones we knew – are anomaly in the city these days. Nearly all tacos today have soft tortillas, more often corn than flour, with chopped onions and cilantro along with wedges of lime to accompany most of the meat-filled versions, as is done in Mexico. There are also restaurants, some with a number of locations, serving creative takes, using the tortilla as a multi-cuisine canvas – not unlike a pizza crust – for tacos with tofu, Korean fried rice, lamb keema, Buffalo chicken, etc.
 
Whatever the style, the best feature items that are cooked to order rather than scooped from a steam tray and with recently made tortillas accompanied by flavorful salsas. One thing I’ve found over the years is that pastor can be a test of a taco purveyor. The pork meat in an al pastor taco is a often a little dry and not very flavorful. It helps to have a trompo, a vertical roasting spit, though I’ve had versions made without that are quite tasty.
 
Listed in order of preference below, and just for the afternoon- , nighttime-type tacos. Breakfast tacos are something different, of course, and have a separate list.

The Best
 
Urbe – Opened in the summer of 2021, this street food outpost from Hugo Ortega and team in Uptown Park is necessarily more ambitious, wide-ranging and accomplished than just about any taco purveyor around. Though this does not have the culinary fireworks you may encounter at one of Hugo Ortega’s other three local Mexican restaurants – Hugo’s, Caracol and Xochi – Urbe serves tacos with the greatest depth of flavor around, some of the prettiest ones, too. These are three to an order, almost all with corn tortillas, and it’s tough to go wrong among pastor from the trompo, beef barbacoa, carnitas and chicharron, brisket with mushroom and chilaca pepper, birria with consommé, and certainly the charred octopus. Uptown Park
100% Taquito – The fare here is the street food of Mexico City: tacos, quesadillas, tortas, sopes, molletes, banderillas, etc., though done in a slightly more upscale and air-conditioned fashion. And the tacos here are taquitos; an order consists of three small tacos filled with a choice of excellent ingredients: chicken; barbacoa de brisket, or regular brisket, tinga, spicy brisket cooked with chipotle peppers, and pastor. There’s a choice between fresh corn or flour tortillas. These seem to taste a tad better with the more authentically Mexican corn tortillas. All taquitos are garnished with just cilantro and onions, as you might expect. The complimentary salsas, red and green, are excellent. The pico de gallo, suitably vibrant and zesty, is also a very nice complement to the dishes. The best bets have been the spicy brisket and the pork served with pineapple cubes. Quesadillas here are prepared in the Mexican fashion, very similar to tacos, might even be a better bet. Greenway Plaza
Master Taco – Parked at Richmond and Woodhead since the spring of 2020, this noticeably friendly taco truck staffed by a family from the state of Guerrero serves up terrific small tacos on flavorful house-made corn or flour tortillas Monday through Friday for lunch and early dinner, where, for good reason, you will usually find at least someone waiting near the intersection for their food. Those taquitos are what to order here, $2 on double corn tortillas, $2.50 for flour, though a little more for lengua and tripa – and the tender and flavorful lengua might be worth it. Beef, pastor, chicken, chicharron en salsa verde, chorizo with nopales, and carnitas round out the fillings, all worth ordering. Sopes, gorditas, quesadillas, chicharones, and the daily plates are also worth a try. Montrose
Tacos A Go Go – What began as a small storefront next to the Continental Club on Main Street in Midtown in 2006, Tacos A Go Go is the best of the Tacos 2.0 spots, a fun, very user-friendly mini-chain that hews closely to Mexico and Texas for its tacos, and doing nearly everything quite well – the salsas might need some more flavor and heat, though. Most tacos are assembled in the Mexican fashion with diced onions, chopped cilantro but it depends on the filling. And these offer the largest array of those of any local taco joint, and without a steam table. For beef, there’s grilled, brisket, carne guisada, picadillo, and the now necessary birria with consommé. For the other proteins: chicken a few ways, fish, shrimp and even lamb barbacoa, which won statewide acclaim from Texas Monthly, as did the pollo guisado. Vegetarian, a couple vegan versions and one with the quite odd tater tots round out the options. Also, you can get one of its breakfast tacos at any time, very nicely. Midtown, Heights, Garden Oaks, Greenway Plaza, Downtown
Eight Row Flint – Primarily a bar, or bars now, these are also great stops for tacos even with no drinks in the plans. A fun and enticing small complement of choices is led by the richly flavorful beef cheek barbacoa with the beef sourced from the well-regarded 44 Farms. The East End location has a different lineup including an odd roasted pork belly with crispy octopus combination. The similarly odd but also still trendy Brussel sprouts are in the middle of tacos at both locations, which proudly make their own corn tortillas. Unfortunately, only one tortilla is provisioned per taco, making for a mess as it’s impossible to finish taco, at least a barbacoa taco, before it falls apart. A second and nearly necessary tortilla per taco is, annoyingly, an extra buck. Heights, East End
Papalo Taqueria – The star of Finn Hall on Main Street is a small stall dishing artisanal tacos at a measured clip. There’s just five choices, each interesting, suitably accompanied and wrapped in tortillas made in-house from stone-mill ground heirloom corn: pork shoulder in a roasted tomatillo salsa, an actually flavorful chicken taco – with marinated chicken thighs – brisket, pork belly, and even one with a confit carrot centerpiece. About $5 a taco. You might need three. Downtown
Tio Trompo – As its name suggests, the key attraction at this quaint taqueria just past Saint Thomas High School on nearly finished Shepherd is the output from the trompo that’s tough to miss behind the counter. That slowly roasted pork, which retains its moistness unlike at far too many taquerias in Houston, makes its way into tacos, tortas and something called the Taco Arabe. That large taco is a version of the shawarma that originated with Lebanese immigrants who brought the trompo to Mexico a century or so ago and a specialty of the city of Puebla southeast of Mexico City. Stick with the tacos featuring pork, which are much tastier than any of the beef and chicken ones. Washington Corridor
Fusion Taco – What began as a taco truck several years ago is a friendly and inviting counter-service spot outside the Heights and the other, a newly opened spot in a food court in Greenway Plaza. Fusion Taco does the wide-ranging fillings better than any of the other Tacos 2.0 joints found in the area. Smoked Brisket, Chicken Tikka Masala, Agedashi Tofu, Falafel, Chicken Fried Oyster and Seared Brussels Sprouts are few of the dozen-and-a-half taco options whose inspirations cover a fair amount of the globe, all of which are thoughtfully comprised with quality ingredients and attractively presented. These are some of the prettiest tacos in town. More importantly, most taste at least pretty good and usually better. One is the Lamb Keema featuring cooling pieces of cucumber slice and a greenish tahini for a refreshing ground lamb taco served in a nicely texturally contrasting fried corn tortilla shell. Unfortunately, the chicken in a couple of the tacos might a little on the dry side. For some reason, the near-liter-sized white plastic bottle of the unique San Luis brand hot sauce (mild) available to bring back to your table seems to make nearly all the tacos better, including making those two chicken tacos enjoyable. Heights
Polanquito – This quaint bistro across the small street from Tio Trompo provides a little taste of a prosperous Mexico City neighborhood and a variety of tasty and pretty tacos, some served solo, in pairs or trios featuring pork, beef and seafood. There’s a delicious conchinita pibil with habanero salsa, carnitas with pickled jalapeños, notable beer-battered fried fish or shrimp with chipotle mayonnaise and pickled red onions, grilled ribeye with panela cheese, beans, and guacamole, and a beef steak with a skirt of cheese, costra-style. All worth an order. Washington Corridor
La Vibra – Serving something a little different, and a little more expensive, this quaint, largely sterile space offers are a slightly refined version of Mexico City style tacos. Tacos are small and come in three styles, classico, which will be familiar, a volcán that’s atop a toasted corn tortilla, and the even more unique Costra – born a couple decades or so ago near a night club in Mexico’s capital – with a layer of crusty Gouda cheese at its bottom. Noticeably good quality ingredients and superb salsas in a quintet of styles, including tamarindo and mole ones, help complete the tacos, of which the trompo-sliced pastor and the battered and deep-fried, but surprisingly light, shrimp and fish fillings are among the best choices. Heights
El Topo – Set deep in the heart of prosperous and well-groomed West U, this is a stop for tasty, nicely adorned and attractively presented tacos with a slick güeros ricos vibe. There should be one or more for most tastes: beef barbacoa featuring 44 Farms product, a trio of roasted mushrooms, barbecued chicken, roasted vegetables, pastor with pork belly but not trompo, and even a crispy ground beef version harkening back to youthful Tex-Mex memories of many nearby parents. Not much of a value, as the average-sized tacos run $6 to $8 a piece here. West U
Cantina Barba – Open after the bars close, when tacos can taste even better, this small drive-in is not far from I-45 on N. Main and not far from the Heights. Unusually and very welcome, barbacoa and breakfast tacos are served all the time, even combining for the Barbacoa Deluxe. There’s also carne asada, grilled chicken, al pastor, papas con rajas, and smoked pork in corn tortillas to satisfy most of those taco cravings. Near North Side
Tacos Doña Lena – A solid choice that is just a little nicer and much hipper than the typical Mexican-themed restaurant in Spring Branch that can be very busy on the weekends for its take on birria in several forms, including in between two corn tortillas, and its range of tacos. This offeres a large number of choices, many more than most. For the meats, from beef to pork to chicken to offal, there’s beef, bistek, barbacoa, chile negro con carne, pastor, pierna, chorizo, chicharron rojo, chicharron verde, along with tripa and lengua. For non-meat, nopalitos, calabacitas, and an odd soy pastor. The meats, especially the pastor can come out a bit dry, but this is one place where it’s safe to order the lengua. Corn is the default tortilla, but flour can be had for an additional $0.75. The typical chopped cilantro and onions can also be swapped for a Tacos Gringo version with lettuce, tomatoes and cheese in a flour tortilla, harkening back to an older Spring Branch. Spring Branch
Solecita – This “churreria y taqueria” in the heart of downtown is a slick, bright and friendly counter-service spot dishing well-made versions of tacos and tortas filled with a small number of more traditionally Mexican items: the recent-years popular birria, carnitas, chicken tinga, Campechanos – fajita beef, chorizo, topped with dried chicharron – poblanos and potatoes, and barbacoa, which is beef rather than lamb now. The tacos come first with corn tortillas but flour can also be had. Cool and breezy open-air seating is upstairs and there’s a patio out front that shares space with the churro cart, a welcome addition to the nighttime street scene. Those are also worth an order, if you’ve avoided that third taco.
La Chingada – With a subtitle of “Tacos & Tequila,” this friendly, small counter-service spot not far north of the Heights sells a fair amount of its fair-sized tacos from a wide-ranging menu on both house-made corn and flour tortillas. Near North Side
Laredo Taqueria – The lines running out the door of the original location on Washington of this air conditioned taco stand from about 7:30 AM to 1:30 PM and often beyond, are a testament to its popularity which derives in large part because of healthy-sized tacos on fresh flour tortillas that are nicely priced with a range of fillings from steam trays prefaced by a smear of refried beans unless you specify otherwise. Three is enough for most, and four for a really gluttonous meal. Never mind the occasional piece of cartilage or gristle, as these are never enough to ruin a taco. The locations on the near north side operated by other family members might be more consistent – or just less crowded – especially the one on Patton, but this location is far more convenient for most. Washington Corridor, Near North Side (3)
Brothers Taco House – A popular, value-oriented option with locally popular fillings dished from steam trays just outside of downtown. Don’t be dismayed if the queue extends outside, it moves quickly. EaDo
Gerardo’s – The barbacoa is the star at this Patton Street staple that’s been serving this north side neighborhood for nearly five decades. And now available on Friday in addition to the weekends. Near North Side
Tacos La Bala – Earnest, very casual, counter-service restaurants serving mostly a Mexican immigrant crowd, these offer tacos with the choice between corn and flour tortillas for nearly ten fillings including pork from the trompo, chicharon, fajita, barbacoa along with tripe and tongue. All of these can be fit into a quesadilla, gordita, tostada or sope for just a little more. Bellaire, Alief (3), North
TJ Birria’s y Mas – As the name indicates, this is a birria specialist, a slick and convenient one at that, and does tacos with that quite well. There’s also Mexico City-style tacos with pastor, beef fajita or chicken, five small ones to an order, attractively plated with double layer of corn tortillas, lime wedges, chopped cilantro and red onion. Heights, Stafford

At Urbe

For three decades now, the nexus of interesting Chinese restaurants has been along Bellaire Boulevard in Chinatown. But today there are other areas with restaurants serving quality traditional and contemporary Chinese food including Sugar Land, the restaurant-filled Katy Asian Town, and even inside the Loop. The last has been one of the most significant and welcome changes in Houston dining in the past two decades, for me at least.
 
When I started writing about restaurants in Houston that began with the inaugural edition of Houston Dining on the Cheap published in 2002, with an easily overlooked exception or two, the only restaurants that were serving dishes beyond the familiar Chinese-American staples in all their gloppiness and simplicity were in and around Bellaire Boulevard. The number of those more authentic Chinese restaurants has grown with growth of immigration and migration from China. Along with those working the Medical Center, the number of Chinese in Houston has grown significantly, and it’s often professionals at companies inside the Loop, like my own. It can pay to help feed them. That’s been a boon to Houston diners, regardless of origin, with many more appealing Chinese restaurants, an increased diversity in cuisines, and a few really fine values, too.
 
With that greater range of Chinese fare available, there’s been an explosion of Sichuan restaurants and spicy Sichuan dishes in the past decade. That classic Sichuan dish, kung pao chicken, has long been around but it wasn’t made like it was made in its home province, in part because it didn’t have uniquely flavored and numbing Sichuan peppercorns. Feared as carriers of a bacterial disease, Sichuan peppercorns were banned in this country from 1968 until 2005. Chinese food here has gotten a lot better, and more Sichuan since then. There’s a lot of Sichuan cooking to be encountered here now. It’s popular with diners, seemingly nearly everywhere.
 
Along with kung pao chicken and its nearly as frequently seen Sichuan brethren, mapo tofu, Shanghai’s soup dumplings and the famous Peking duck are found in most local Chinese restaurants. Hot pots are a big draw for Chinese patrons, but don’t have nearly the appeal beyond. And General Tso’s Chicken might never be retired from the field as most Chinese restaurants continue to battle for customers of all stripes.
 
Listed alphabetically, and each are more enjoyable when eaten and dishes shared with others.
 
Chengdu Taste – Sichuan – This Sichuan specialist, named after the capital of that province, actually has its roots in Los Angeles. Popular with transplants from China, it’s a nice fit amidst a clutter of other restaurants on Bellaire Boulevard, serving an array of both locally popular Sichuan dishes along with earthier preparations that might not play as well elsewhere in the city. Intestines, chicken gizzards, beef tripe and pork hock star along with kung pao chicken and sauteed green beans. Chinatown
Cooking Girl – Sichuan – This was first of the in-town, authentically Chinese restaurants when it opened from a Chongqing native in 2015 in a small space in the heart of Montrose – now housing Cucharita – earning plenty of local attention and spawning Pepper Twins. It has changed and grown, now in three user-friendly and friendly locations that are not intimidating for the casual Chinese food consumer, except for the tiny parking lot at the smart Montrose location, and maybe the noted Mr. and Mrs. Smith appetizer, which features beef tendon and tripe there. It is worth a try, though. Montrose, Medical Center, Sugar Land
Duck N Bao – Sichuan / Peking Duck – Serving a contemporary take on Chinese fare “while keeping it authentic,” this duo specializes in “Peking duck, soup dumplings, and Sichuan cuisine.” The menus, which include some dim sum item, too, actually make sense, especially for areas far from Bellaire Boulevard. The owners are, fairly appropriately, from Beijing and Sichuan province and offer an array of usually well-executed preparations that will appeal to a gamut of customers. There’s more beef than at most Chinese restaurants and several widely recognized dishes. Nicely, and reflecting its names, Peking Duck can be had without advance order and even in half-orders. Memorial Park, Cypress
Fung’s Kitchen – Dim Sum / Cantonese Seafood – Returning from an enforced two-year hiatus due to a fire in late 2022, the cart-driven and wide-ranging dim sum service hit its stride more quickly than its later-in-the-day seafood emphasis. It’s the best, and most fun, dim sum spot in the area. Tanks hold lobster, a restaurant specialty, that can be prepared in a number of ways, featuring jalapeño and garlic, black pepper, black bean, coconut curry and even in a hot pot. Blue crabs appear in a number of preparations, even in soft shell form, as do another top local product, shrimp. The menu is voluminous; Peking duck, of course, a section highlighting free-range chicken, and a number of noodle and fried rice items that should be able to entice most palates. After the rebuild, the expansive setting is nicer, more inviting than ever, sitting at what is about the eastern gateway to restaurant-mad Bellaire Boulevard. Chinatown
Hai Cang Harbor – Cantonese Seafood – Set in one of the many strip centers along Bellaire Boulevard that’s adorned with live sea creatures along the walls – fish, lobsters, crabs, large geoduck clams, spot prawns, and striking marbled goby swimming in the large tanks – that are primed to star in a meal. Dungeness crabs are a specialty along with one of the whole steamed fishes. Less grand, traditional preparations like Shrimp with Scrambled Egg and Walnut Shrimp with Mayo Sauce can also aptly satisfy. The menu is huge, but the helpful staff can provide recommendations or there are dinners for six, eight and ten that might be easiest of all with a group. Chinatown
Lao Sze Chuan – Sichuan – These two branches of a Chicago-based chain provide nicer settings than most for Sichuan-rooted cooking that’s aimed for a broad audience with a menu – tendon, tripe and lung aren’t to be found – and dishes like its signature twice cooked pork that can delight. BYOB. Chinatown, Montrose
Mala Sichuan Bistro – Sichuan – Named after the unique numbing and hot flavors of Sichuan cooking, the “ma” and the “la,” its initial location along Bellaire Boulevard helped popularize that cuisine to non-Chinese in Houston, incorporating a decent beverage program, in part. And the second spot, in the heart of Montrose, has the look of a modern Asian bistro. But the food is the draw. The House Special Funky Cold Noodles, Kung Pao Chicken with the Sichuan peppercorns, and Dry Pot Fish Fillet – battered and deep fried fillet seasoned with ginger, garlic, dry red chiles and Sichuan peppercorns – are a few usual standouts. Chinatown, Montrose, Heights, Sugar Land, Katy
Mama’s Kitchen – Sichuan – An easy-to-overlook spot nearly across Richmond from a Costco amidst a flurry of other small eateries, this churns out some tasty, if fairly straightforward Sichuan fare. The Szechuan Stir-Fried Lamb (with pickled pepper, parsley, ginger, garlic, dried red pepper and sliced serranos), the similar Szechuan Stir-Fried Beef, its take on Spicy Chicken Chunks, and the Pan-Fried Pork are a few of the frequently ordered winners. The menu hosts a number of popular Sichuan-rooted preparations among a variety of proteins, vegetable dishes, fried rice, a few hot pots, and also a few smoothies and milk teas. Greenway Plaza
Mein – Cantonese – With a stylish, contemporary setting in Chinatown, this “offers food that reflects the immigrant Cantonese experience.” It hits the right notes with plenty of appealing preparations like Charsiu, honey roasted pork here, the chilled Hand Pulled Chicken featuring poached free-range chicken, Garlic Eggplant, and the spicy Drunken Noodles with shrimp. Reflecting that emigrant experience from Canton, there are also some Vietnamese, Thai and Singaporean items. Chinatown
Ocean Palace – Cantonese Seafood / Dim Sum – This giant two-story restaurant – nearly 40,000 square feet of it – has anchored a corner of Hong Kong City Mall for nearly a quarter century. Serving dim sum daily via cart to a multi-cultural local crowd daily until 5:00, the offerings are especially grand on Sundays. But it might be a better bet for its on-the-menu Cantonese cooking that’s heavy on the seafood with items like Fried Salt and Pepper Dungeness Crab, Lobster with Ginger and Scallions, and the House Special Crispy Fried Egg Noodles. Chinatown
One Dragon – Shanghainese –  Tucked into a strip center space on Bellaire Boulevard, this quaint spot seating less than forty has been sought out for their delicious and delicately sheathed soup dumplings that are filled with pork or pork and shrimp, the standard in the city. Other Shanghai specialties, the crispy bottom bao with shrimp or pork, braised pork belly with hard-boiled eggs, and scallion pancakes are also tough to pass on. The kitchen does well with larger plates featuring beef and duck, and likely hairy crab, too, if it was available. Chinatown
Pepper Twins – Sichuan – Eclipsing its parent Cooking Girl, these Sichuan stalwarts distinguish themselves with the noticeably high quality of the meats, which is readily apparent with the chicken dishes. Tilapia is the fish of choice here, but the fish preparations like Hot Diving Fish and Fish Loves Tofu are loved by many Chinese patrons. Their versions of Ma Po Tofu and Mongolian Beef, the very spicy Pepper Twins and starters Spicy Potato Silk with Vinegar and Dry-Fried Green Beans are a few of the stars. To note, the Kirby and San Felipe locations are more consistent than the one on West Gray, which has noticeably slipped. Montrose, Upper Kirby District, Galleria Area
Regal Seafood House & Lounge – Cantonese / Dim Sum – One of the best Chinese restaurants in the area. At least moniker that is what a fair number of Chinese nationals believe and they pack the restaurant on a regular basis for Cantonese and Honk Kong-style cuisine, mostly seafood, plus one of the better versions of Peking duck in the city. The duck is even cut in front of you. Dim sum items are also served, and though these might not quite reach level of Fung’s Kitchen further north on the freeway, these can be quite tasty, and even has well-crafted versions of Shanghai’s soup dumplings. The interior includes a cozy bar area off the entrance – the “Lounge” in the name – banquettes complementary the necessary large round tables and shiny white marble-like walls. Somewhat modern. Muted. Pleasant. This is not your typical Chinatown restaurant, it’s nicer and service is better, if not overly polished, especially if you don’t speak Cantonese or Mandarin. Without those language skills or a dining companion in the know, the menu can be a little interesting to navigate, but with the quality of the cooking, it will like be a very enjoyable journey. Sugar Land
Taste of Mulan – Dim Sum – Yes, it’s got a silly name and an unpromising location in a dull strip center along side wing and a pizza chain spots, but this dishes some nice dim sum staples and more daily by menu card. It’s not that cheap, but a trio or quartet of those small plates makes for a satisfying visit. There’s also another menu of the more-familiar Sichuan and other items, but are best ignored. Midtown
Tim Ho Wan – Dim Sum – A famed chain originally from Hong Kong – where it held a Michelin star for over a decade – and with several stateside locations, this Katy Asian Town spot has been packed with customers since finally opening in 2022. Serving well-crafted versions of the familiar dim sum items via menu – except a contemporary baked rather than steamed take on char siu bao – service is noticeably attentive to complement the satisfying fare. There are also good-sized soups serving as a meal for the single diner. Katy
Wanna Bao – Shanghainese / Sichuan – Proclaiming itself on its signage as “Hearty Chinese Bistro / Dumpling House.” It is. And a good one at that, and in a hip, industrial-sparse bistro-like setting at the edge of Midtown is well beyond what would be typical of a similar place along Bellaire Boulevard, serving both dishes from Shanghai, including soup dumplings, of course, and the madly popular spicy Sichuan region, Wanna Bao succeeds with both – as with both ends of its signage, the dumplings for certain. Midtown

One of the flavorful creations found at Mein