MIKE RICCETTI
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  • The best of Houston dining
    • Guinness pours
    • Banh mi
    • Breakfast tacos
    • Chicken Fried Steak
    • French
    • French Fries
    • Fried Chicken
    • Greek
    • Italian
    • Italian-American
    • Mexican
    • Midtown Dining
    • Pizzerias
    • Pizza at Non-Pizzerias
    • Rice Village Dining
    • Sandwiches
    • To Take Visitors
    • Wine Bars
    • Wine Lists
  • The margherita pizza project
  • The martini project
  • Musings on Houston Dining
    • The top 10 new restaurants of 2022
    • The top 10 new restaurants of 2021
    • The top 10 new restaurants of 2019
    • The top 10 new restaurants of 2018
    • The top 10 new restaurants of 2017
    • The top 10 new restaurants of 2016
    • The dozen best Inner Loop values
    • Dining recommendations for visitors to Houston
  • Italian restaurant history
  • Italian & Italian-American
  • Entertaining tips
    • Booze basics
    • Styles of Cheeses
    • Handling Those Disruptive Guests
  • Wine
  • Beer
  • Cocktails and Spirits
  • Miscellaneous
  • Blog
MIKE RICCETTI

Mostly food and drink...

...and mostly set in Houston

The best pizzas at places that aren’t pizzerias

11/26/2022

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Some of the very best pizzas to be found in Houston are at restaurants where pizzas are just one small part of the menu. These are almost all Italian-focused, or Italian-leaning, and mostly fine dining. Pizzas have not typically found at nice restaurants in Italy outside of the Naples area, but American restaurants are not bound by those conventions, or most others, for that matter. And that’s usually a good thing.  More pizza is usually a good thing, too. Quality pizza, always so.
 
The best of these pizzas are inspired by those found in Naples: individually sized, a thin, soft crust with raised edges, and a minimal amount of high-quality toppings that’s been cooked in a very hot, often wood-burning oven that’s been built for the purpose. It is a testament to the skill of a kitchen to be able to make tasty pizza dough and then adorn and cook a pizza properly, consistently. It is not easy. I know, having countless mediocre and worse renditions in recent years sampling margherita pizzas in restaurants throughout the city. Below are restaurants where you can order a pizza with confidence. Those at the top of the list, you might even go just for the pizza. Listed in order of preference.
 
The Best
 
Da Marco – Marco Wiles introduced Neapolitan-inspired pizzas to Houston here, which begat the stellar pizza-centric Dolce Vita for many years down the street. Only offering its excellent take on the margherita and only at lunch, but it’s still one of the best pizzas in the city. Montrose
Amalfi – Chef-proprietor Giancarlo Ferrara hails from Salerno down the coast from Naples and his pizza oven helps showcase the pride he takes in his region’s beloved creation. The skillfully rendered Neapolitan-inspired pizzas come in ten different versions ranging from a margherita with Buffalo mozzarella and grape tomatoes to one featuring marinated salmon, a cacio e pepe and another with roasted pork, spicy salami and jalapeños. Briargrove
 
Very Good
 
Ostia – Just a red and white – no tomato sauce – and just at lunch. The red might involve a margherita with a protein the white cheese and maybe an egg. Both feature a properly enjoyable, fairly flavorful soft crust with ingredients that are noticeably higher quality and so tastier than usual. You might want a little more integration between the toppings and crust, but these are still pizzas were returning for.  Montrose
Amore – This replication of sorts of Da Marco from a former chef also does a very creditable job of Neapolitan-themed pizzas featuring a well-made thin crust and pleasing, appropriate toppings, much more than just the margherita. Cooked in a prominently displayed golden tile-covered pizza oven at this simply set 86-seater somewhat hidden away on Shepherd near W. Alabama sharing a pizza can be a fine way to start a meal or as a lunch.  Montrose
Rosie Cannonball – The upscale, pricy, mostly Italian, often Emilian cuisine-inspired eatery takes a detour to Naples for its commendable, thin individual pizzas available with a half-dozen including a couple vegetarian ones that almost hit the $25 mark, but you’ll willing pay that. Top-notch ingredients are used properly with a fine crust anchoring the pizzas that are Italian in style if not necessarily Neapolitan.  Montrose
Trattoria Sofia – The pizzas might be the only reason to visit this Italian-American spot on 11th Street that is part of the Berg collection of restaurants. Small in size, even for an individually sized pizza, the crust is light and flavorful. Thin crust, the pizzas are not Neapolitan, more like an American restaurant imitation of it, but quite enjoyable. Available in several appealing versions. These are even better than the ones at its sibling B+B Butchers, which are also fairly well done.  Heights
 
Good
 
Weights + Measures – This very versatile spot also does a commendable job with pizzas cooked in a wood-burning oven including a unique version topped with roasted carrots, the cooked onion and cream soubise sauce, Fresno chiles, cilantro, dukka and gruyere that has earned plenty of fans. There are several other options including the necessary margherita if you don’t want to stray too far from tradition. For all of them, you can expect that the dough will be of high quality from a restaurant sharing space with Slough Dough bake shop. Midtown
Tiny Boxwoods / Tiny’s No. 5 – These precious spots perfect for moms dining with daughters returning home from the sorority don’t skimp on the quality of its fare, which includes some tasty, nicely light pizzas made with quality ingredients in a handful of enticing options including a margherita-like with pesto substituting for basil solo.  River Oaks, West U
Carrabba’s (Kirby and Voss) – Houston’s favorite Italian-American restaurants, the two original Carrabba’s still run by Johnny and mother, serve creditable individually sized but hearty pizzas from pizza ovens set near the seemingly always bustling bar area. There is a margherita and pepperoni, of course but another with sausage, eggplant, and sweet peppers and another with fig, arugula, and prosciutto along with lemon preserves, goat cheese, and pine nuts with a balsamic glaze. Plus, different than the others on the list, you can create your list of toppings. Upper Kirby, Briargrove

The tasty Pesto & Mozzarella Pizza at Tiny's No. 5 in West U.
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The best restaurants for chicken fried steak

11/25/2022

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You really shouldn’t eat chicken fried steak: it’s about as unhealthy an item on the menu, battered and deep-fried beef with a thick black pepper-spiked gravy that’s usually heavily caloric; plus, it features as poor a cut and quality of beefsteak that you will find served at any restaurant. And I certainly shouldn’t eat chicken fried steak – and I always neglect to mention these occasional orders to my cardiologist – but it’s a guilty pleasure and something I’ve enjoyed since childhood. It was long a Texas staple, once found almost everywhere, after all. Maybe enjoyed is too strong of a word; many of my early experiences with it were the tough and gristly versions from the school cafeteria, even tougher and more gristle-laden ones weekly during a college meal plan and the too often dull and far-from-tender preparations where the dish is still cooked. Enjoyed at times is more correct. There are very good preparations every now and then, though restaurants serving the dish in any level of adeptness are found diminishingly so on the more competitive local restaurant landscape. Pappas Burgers, where I had one of the best chicken fried steaks in recent years, no longer offers it, to give one example.   
 
Through four years, off and on, I’ve eaten chicken fried steaks at three dozen places in town in an effort to find the best and recommendable versions in general. There are numerous bad preparations and I ended my research on this with an attractive, if appropriately lousy one at Ouisie’s Table; tough and bland beef, cheap-tasting, with the breading falling too easily away from it, a place once known for the dish and where it was once done fairly well. The dining scene in Houston has largely moved far beyond chicken fried steaks and places like that, thankfully, but a savory chicken fried steak is still welcome every now and then for some of us. Here are the restaurants where you can find at least a decent one.
 
The Best
 
Wild Oats – $18 / $32 – Designated on the menu as “Wagyu Chicken Fried Steak / Fancy meat…” this upscale version from the Texas-themed outpost of Underbelly Hospitality is the top take on the statewide “classic” now found in our fair city. Featuring excellent meat, the regionally raised Wagyu beef, for a chicken fried steak, it is quite tender with a welcome hint of beef flavor, something that is lacking in most renditions. The breading will fall off somewhat, but no matter, it is delicious, aided by not-so-piquant jalapeño and bacon gravy. Very whipped mashed potatoes and crip green beans served with a little crumbled bacon and micro chives on top provide nice complements for the steak. For $32 for a large order, which is not terribly large at all, this might not be much of a value, but it sure is tasty.  Heights
 
Best of the Rest
 
Frank’s Americana – $28 – On a section of Westheimer that borders River Oaks, this nice, clubby restaurant serves a slightly upscale, well-crafted and flavorful take on the Texas staple that will please any income class. Served under cream gravy with mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables cooked al dente for a satisfying full meal. Greenway Plaza
Killen’s – $20 / $26 – Fittingly, in the building on Waugh that housed Hickory Hollow for many years, a destination for many for its chicken fried steak, Ronnie Killen’s Inner Loop location does a more-than-creditable job with the dish. The well-seasoned steak here is noticeable, welcome and somewhat unusual, and needs no help from any bottled hot sauce, though the cream gravy is reflexive must. Served with mashed potatoes.  Washington Corridor
Killen’s STQ – $34 – It’s chicken fried ribeye at this expensive, mostly steakhouse that’s pricier and of a higher quality than most versions of the dish. It comes in a manageable size with the necessary white gravy, its frequent partner mashed potatoes that are conspicuously well-done here, and also collard greens for more of a Southern bent to the dish and restaurant.  Briargrove
Barbecue Inn – $17.50 – You don’t travel to this charmingly old school and friendly Houston relic on the north side, now near north side, for the barbecue but what comes out of the deep fryer: the fried chicken, fried shrimp and chicken fried steak. Comforting, satisfying, if nothing spectacular, but value-oriented. It’s a meal coming with cream gravy and a choice of two sides among a iceberg lettuce salad, French fries, mashed potatoes and green beans.  Near North Side
Mia’s Table – $19.99 – Johnny Carrabba’s casual, counter-service concept for hearty family friendly, locally inclined fare is justifiably popular as it does fine versions of almost everything including the tender-enough and tasty chicken fried steak; with jalapeño cream gravy for just a little bite even before the splashes of hot sauce.  Upper Kirby District, Spring Branch, Katy, Cypress, Clear Lake, The Woodlands
 
Worth a Visit For It
 
Mucky Duck – $16.95 – Just on Wednesdays, this British-themed showcase club and pub with a kitchen much better than it needs to be, offers a tender take on the battered, deep-fried steak, which is served with creamy mashed potatoes, a lot of gravy, Mexican-style street corn, and a piece of moist cornbread.  Upper Kirby District
State Fare – $24 lunch / $28 dinner – The stylish Texas-centric spots have, maybe, too many pitfalls on the menu, but its offering of the chicken fried steak is not one of them. Here, it’s a half-pound of sturdy ribeye steak that has more flavor than most versions and a crust that nicely adheres to the meat and which comes under a lot of welcome salty, cream gravy, mashed potatoes, bacon-and-onion aided green beans.  Memorial City, Sugar Land, The Woodlands
Laurenzo’s Grill – $25.99 – It’s called Vitello Fritto here, chicken fried veal, a fancier Italian-American take on it, well on the name, at least. More tender than usually found as its veal, the sausage gravy provides some additional gustatory oomph that might be necessary. The dish nicely comes with bread and a choice of side from a list of nearly twenty choices.  Washington Corridor
Hughie’s – $15 – This family run Vietnamese duo catering to a non-Vietnamese clientele also serves hamburgers and Country Fried Steak. Featuring higher quality filet mignon that is smothered in sausage and bacon gravy, it’s an appetizing interpretation. It comes with sides of just decent garlic-spiked mashed potatoes and a kale salad for just $15.  Heights (2)
Jax Grill – $15.99 – These longtime, lower key counter service places provide one of the best values for chicken fried steak. If not quite fork-tender, the beef is soft and tasty enough under a crispy crust served with a flour-y white cream gravy that all calls for some more black pepper and cayenne-based hot sauce that is now served with French fries.  Washington Corridor, Bellaire, Katy
Hickory Hollow – $12.60 / $15 / $18 – Once the local favorite for it, a stop for one can still satisfy, and even be a belt-busting diversion. Coming in small, large, and ridiculously large sizes, the last of which will engender stares from fellow diners. This familiar and crusty preparation is on the mild side and calls for hot sauce. Served with a couple sides, it’s a wallet-friendly order, especially for the considerable amount of calories.  Cypress
 
Chicken fried steak comes in more disappointing versions than just about any type of dish so it will be helpful to mention some of the restaurants where you should definitely not order it, in addition to the aforementioned Ouisie’s Table: Federal Grill, House of Pies, Luby’s, of course, and Union Kitchen.

The value-laden version at Jax Grill of a dish that is never pretty.
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An odd but very appropriate addition to the center of downtown, Solecita

11/18/2022

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You might have heard commercials on sport talk radio this summer during the recent glorious baseball season touting this quaint restaurant as an easy, if usually warm and humid, stroll east to MinuteMaid Park.  It’s true, having strolled many a times from a few blocks further to the game, but there are reasons to visit Solecita last well into the off-season.
 
This slick, bright and friendly counter-service spot opened in April and provides the heart of downtown with well-made versions of tortas and tacos filled with a small number of more traditionally Mexican items: the recently popular birria, carnitas, chicken tinga, Campechanos (fajita beef, chorizo, topped with dried chicharron), poblanos and potatoes, and barbacoa de borrego.  It's odd to find stewed goat in the heart of the office towers and expensive high-rise apartments a block from Market Square, but it is very welcome and tender and delicious.  The large tortas are served on the softer telera bread of good quality.  The tacos come first with corn tortillas but flour can also be had.  Cool and breezy open-air seating is upstairs and there is a patio out front that shares space with the churro cart, a welcome addition to the nighttime street scene.  Those are also worth an order.  This is a fun and very useful place.
 
Solecita
413 Travis (between Prairie and Preston) 77002, (713) 225-1115
solecitahouston.com
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    Author

    Mike Riccetti is a longtime Houston-based food writer and former editor for Zagat, and not incidentally the author of three editions of Houston Dining on the Cheap.

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