In a review of an Italian restaurant a few years ago, the doyenne of local food writers raved that "the house-made pastas here are so good, so springily al dente..."  Not the correct choice of words; not the "springily," which my spell-checker flagged, but "al dente."  The mistake is forgivable, as most food writers - and most everyone - are quick to use "al dente" when describing pasta whether or not the pasta is actually al dente.

Concerning the attributes of house-made, or freshly made pasta - pasta fresca in Italian - the words "al dente" are never correct.  "You cannot do fresh pasta al dente!" screamed the longtime, Italian-bred chef at San Francisco's famed Fior d'Italia some years ago on a Travel Channel show, Pasta Paradises.  And a cookbook on the subject, Pasta Fresca, similarly related that "fresh pasta will not have the al dente quality of dried pasta, but instead will be meltingly tender to the bite."  It is the commercially made dried pasta - pasta secca - made with hard wheat flour like the familiar spaghetti, linguine and penne found in supermarkets is what can be - and, according to Italians, should be cooked al dente.  This is the toothsome texture, neither too hard and certainly not mushy, but a bit chewy.

There is a caveat or two.  Freshly made pasta using hard wheat flour is a tradition in parts of southern Italy like the orecchiette in Puglia that can be cooked al dente.  It is quite rare here, as soft wheat flour - such as all-purpose - requires much less effort to make into pasta by hand.  You might find some pastas made in this age-old fashion at restaurants, but it is very much an exception.  Also, hard wheat flour is found in the egg pastas imported from Italy that are often used as a substitute, as I'm apt to make, for fresh pasta.  These are typically packaged as little nests or balls of pasta.  By law in Italy any packaged dry pasta has to use hard wheat flour even if that type flour might be traditional for that style of pasta.

I think that the biggest reason "al dente" is thrown about is that its use signals that the diner knows the subject.  Knows pasta, like how catchwords and -phrases are quickly thrown about by most of us.  The words "pasta" and "al dente" just go together when talking about food, whether or not they should go together for that particular preparation.  Americans typically like their pasta like spaghetti cooked to a much softer consistency than al dente.  That might not be an issue.  It just shouldn't be called "al dente" and that phrase should be used much more sparingly.

Spaghetti alle vongole in Sorrento, cooked nicely al dente

Always taking the brief restaurant reviews in Texas Monthly with a grain or two of salt, I wasn’t too surprised to find in an otherwise positive review published last month for Tonight & Tomorrow in the recently refurbished La Colombe d’Or on Montrose a demerit like this: “Less successful was the bucatini, an undercooked pasta that heirloom tomatoes and pistou could not save.”

I immediately understood the phrase “undercooked pasta” as meaning that the pasta was cooked al dente or, more likely, even beyond that.  The Dictionary of Italian Food and Drink defines it as being “somewhat chewy, neither hard nor mushy.”  In one of her cookbooks Lidia Bastianich describes that “al dente is a sensation of slight resistance, generated by the pressure of chewing.”  Cooking dried pasta – only dried pasta can be cooked al dente – to a soft, near-resistance-free consistency, not al dente, is what the vast majority of Americans do.  This is why the box of DeCecco linguine in my pantry gives two different instructions for boiling – “Cooking Time: 12 Min / Al Dente: 10 Min.”

The owner of Perbacco, the longstanding Italian eatery in a corner of the Pennzoil Building downtown that does pasta well, made it a point to complain to me once how Americans like their pasta overcooked.  He didn’t seem too happy about it, but for me, I don’t see it as really a problem unless the pasta gets mushy or loses some of its flavor being too soft.  Let people cook it how they like it.  And Americans largely like their pasta fairly soft; Italians like their pasta more toothsome, al dente.  Though Italians might disagree, I believe it’s mostly a matter of preference.

And I believe that pasta cooked al dente is certainly not undercooked.

With the opening of another branch of the fast-casual Bao Shi Yi, there are now three Chinese restaurants serving genuine Chinese food along a stretch of Holcombe just over a block long centered around Morningside not too far west of the Medical Center.  With its numerous researchers and doctors from China, The Medical Center is a big reason for this.  And this highlights one of the most significant and welcome changes in Houston dining in the past two decades: the availability of authentic Chinese inside the Loop.  I try to avoid using “authentic” especially concerning cuisines from places I haven’t traveled, but I believe it’s correct, or mostly so, in this case.

When I started writing about restaurants in Houston that began with the inaugural edition of Houston Dining on the Cheap in 2002, with an easily overlooked exception or two, the only restaurants that were serving dishes beyond the familiar Chinese-American staples in all their gloppiness were in and around Bellaire Boulevard.  Now the list of actually Chinese Chinese restaurants inside the Loop includes:

Bao Shi Yi (2) – northern Chinese dumplings and bao
Dumpling Haus – pan-Chinese dumplings
Hu’s Cooking – Sichuan and some Taiwanese
Mala Sichuan – Sichuan
Mama’s Kitchen – Sichuan and some Taiwanese
One Dim Sum – Cantonese
Pepper Twins (2) – Sichuan
Spicy Girl – Sichuan
Siu Lap City – Cantonese barbecue
Trendy Dumpling – Sichuan
Wanna Bao – Shanghai and Sichuan
 
I quite enjoy Pepper Twins, Wanna Bao, Mala Sichuan and Cooking Girl where I picked up a really enjoyable lunch today.  The Bao Shi Yi on Kirby has a drive-thru, so it draws some occasional attention, too.  Its dumplings are usually tasty as is the not-sure-it’s-so-authentic deep-fried Popcorn Chicken.
 
The number of contemporary Chinese restaurants has grown with growth of immigration and migration from China.  Along with those working the Medical Center, the number of Chinese in Houston has grown significantly, and it’s often professionals at companies inside the Loop, like my own.  It can pay to help feed them.  That’s been a boon to Houston diners, regardless of origin, with more good restaurants, an increased diversity in cuisines, and a few really fine values, too.

From Pepper Twins

Though dining in Houston is more expensive than ever, even during the hopeful tail end of the pandemic, there a still some very good dining values. When I compiled this list five years ago, I had ten restaurants; now I felt compelled to make it a dozen. The best dining values do not mean the cheapest joints, but are those that provide the best food for its price. Sometimes cheap is just cheap. Leading the way for best dining values are banh mi and Mexican spots, like before. Here are the dozen best:
 
Aladdin – Picking up a tray and gazing across the partition into an expanse of enticing, mostly vegetarian preparations – roughly 30 items most lunchtimes well beyond the two types of creamy hummus and baba ganoush – is just a preface to an enjoyable and very affordable meal, as the dishes often taste even better than they look. A well-cooked meat like chicken shawarma, lamb gyro or one of the day’s stews, comes with two sides on filling platter for just $13.99 and usually a dollar cheaper during lunch. Not only the best value Middle Eastern restaurant, Aladdin is one of the best in Houston.  912 Westheimer (at Montrose), 77006, (713) 942-2321

Baguette & Tea – This tiny spot in a small strip center across from the West Alabama Ice House is worth enduring the usually terrible parking – a block or so walk might be in order – for some of the best renditions of banh mi in the city. There are seven different filling options for these geared toward inner Loopers led by the Spice BBQ Pork (thit nuong) and the Grilled Lemongrass Beef, of course. Sandwiches and Asian teas and other drinks in a variety of renditions are the main draws here, but there is also pho, vermicelli bowls, rice plates with the less-seen-these-days broken rice, and fried rice, with only one item on the menu over $7.  2007 W. Alabama (at McDuffie), 77098, (832) 516-8871

The Cuban Station – This low-volume counter-service – or window-service, actually – operation with a handful of tables located within the convenience store section of a Chevron gas station on Harrisburg a couple of miles east of downtown provides an excellent value led by the iconic Cuban sandwich at the top of the menu and which the owner is quick to recommend. It is delicious, probably the best version of it in the city, and also quite substantial, just over a foot long, only $7.49, amazingly cheap for the heft and quality. There are a number of other inexpensively priced sandwiches, Cuban-influenced and otherwise, hamburgers, including one with a one-pound patty for a relative song, and batidos, fruit shakes. Nothing is over $8 here. The necessary short wait is well worth it. Lunch and early dinner. 5001 Harrisburg (between Lockwood and Alt 90), 77011, (832) 272-9680

Giacomo’s – This comfortable and eminently enjoyable River Oaks spot is a casual Italian restaurant done right, or an appealing neighborhood restaurant of any stripe done right. The well-executed fare is vibrant, light on its feet, and properly evoking Italy, often with dishes inspired from chef-proprietor Lynette Hawkins days growing up in Rome and Tuscany. Nothing is over $20 and there are plenty of items that are meant to share. And, its list of nearly all-Italian wines – interesting, very well-selected and easily affordable – is still likely the best value wine list with any breadth in the city.  3215 Westheimer (at Bammel Lane), 77098, (713) 522-1934

Istanbul Grill – A reason to brave the traffic and parking travails in the Village with its interesting, well-prepared Turkish food in a pleasant, informal setting, often lively atmosphere, and noticeably friendly and eager service. Many of their traditional Anatolian items are baked in a brick oven that is evident in the somewhat open kitchen, including the distinctive Turkish pizzas that can provide a filling meal for $11-$15. The kabob platters are a great value here, easily worth the $15 tariff for the beef and lamb doner kabob and $16 for the lash shish kabob. The portions are generous and served with a large amount of moist rice and grilled tomatoes and bell peppers. Fresh and warm house-made thin pide bread nicely complements every table.  5613 Morningside (just north of University), 77005, (713) 526-2800

La Guadalupana – Though not much to look at, and really not much at all in terms of size, this is nonetheless an excellent neighborhood place for a pleasing Mexican meal in the morning or afternoon, or to grab some attractive and scrumptious pastries, Mexican and otherwise, and coffee. The dumpy little dining room has become increasingly more crowded, and less dumpy, in recent years as more have discovered the considerable charms of the inexpensive breakfast and lunch spot. For just $9.99, you can get lighter-than-typical enchiladas verdes or poblano enchiladas – with a proprietor from Puebla, the mole poblano are worth ordering – or, for about the same price, the terrific stewed pork slathered in a verdant spicy salsa, asado de puerco. The breakfast tacos are not what they once were, but the other, dine-in-type morning preparations are worth a stop.  2100 Dunlavy (between Fairview and West Gray) 77019, (713) 522-2301

Laredo Taqueria – The lines running out the door of the original location on Washington of this air conditioned taco stand from about 7:30AM to 1:30PM and often beyond, are a testament to its popularity which derives in large part because of healthy-sized tacos on fresh flour tortillas that are just $3 with a range of fillings prefaced by a smear of refried beans. Three is enough for most, and four for a gluttonous meal. Never mind the occasional piece of cartilage or gristle, as these are never enough to ruin a toco. The locations on the near north side operated by other family members might be more consistent – or just less crowded – especially the one on Patton, but this location is far more convenient for most.  915 Snover (on Washington east of Shepherd), 77007 and three others north of downtown

Master Taco – Parked at Richmond and Woodhead since the spring of 2020, this noticeably friendly taco truck serves up terrific small tacos on flavorful house-made corn or flour tortillas Monday through Friday for lunch and early dinner, where, for good reason, you will usually find at least someone waiting near the intersection for their food. Those taquitos are what to order here, $2 on double corn tortillas, $2.50 for flour, though a little more for lengua and tripa – and the tender and flavorful lengua might be worth it. Beef, pastor, chicken, chicharron en salsa verde, chorizo with nopales, and carnitas round out the fillings, all worth ordering. Sopes, gorditas, quesadillas, chicharones, and the daily plates are also worth a try.  1802 Richmond (at Woodhead), (832) 654-0285

Pepper Twins – A recent lunch special for just $9.99 featuring the namesake chicken dish showed what this mini-chain does at its best: a preparation rooted in Sichuan with typically spicy and often numbing flavors, recognizably high-quality proteins, fresh vegetables, evident skill in the kitchen, and a delicious result that can be an outstanding value. The meats are much better and much more flavorful than at most local restaurants in this price range, which is easy to notice. The chicken comes from Springer Mountain, no hormone and no antibiotics, and tastier thighs are used. The beef is Certified Angus Beef. The pork is from the Berkshire breed. Currently with five locations scattered around the Houston area, there are two inside the Loop, and these might be the best of the lot. It’s more fun to eat with others here to be able enjoy several of the many enticing preparations and there are a few of the missteps on the menu, but these spots rarely fail to satisfy. This is why there are often more than a few patrons from China dining here (or picking up now).  1915 W. Gray (west of Dunlavy), 77019, (346) 204-5644 and 3915 Kirby (at the Southwest Freeway), 77098, (346) 444-6493

Roostar – Houston’s best banh mi purveyor just opened a third location, in the East End on Navigation, its first inside the Loop. Slicker than most other similar restaurants, this is banh mi 2.0 featuring excellent baguettes from Slow Dough that are a little different than the local banh mi norm, better meats including ribeye and pork cooked sous vide, and a result that’s always very satisfying. A bit more expensive than what you’ll usually find elsewhere, but the banh mi prices top out at $8.29. Eggrolls, curry-laden fries and a few other items can complement a sandwich order.  2929 Navigation (between Jensen and Sampson), 77003, (713) 636-9710

Thien An – The familiar, fairly lengthy Houston-area Vietnamese menu including spring and fried egg rolls, banh mi, rice plates, vermicelli bowls, and pho is provided here. It’s just done noticeably better than most other places, and not just budget options. The banh mi are one longtime highlight, especially for the local favorite, the char-grilled pork (all the way to $3.99 now), since the restaurant is more generous than most with the pork, which is nicely cooked, tender and richly flavorful, nestled along with the expected fresh, texture-providing accompaniments in a local-standard short Vietnamese-style baguette that is properly fresh, crusty and airy. The no-nonsense setting provides an appropriate place for a tasty and wallet-friendly meal.  2611 San Jacinto (just south of McGowen), 77004, (713) 522-7007

Uberrito – What began as Mission Burritos a couple of decades ago is down to just one location inside the Loop, but their design-it-yourself burritos on giant 13” tortillas featuring a choice among now about ten proteins or vegetables as a centerpiece are also much tastier than the similar competitors as are the “Ten Tasty Tacos” are quite tasty, too. The creamy serrano ranch, especially, or fiery green salsa applied during construction seems to help with most burritos and tacos, but the results rarely disappoint, regardless. The burritos are still large, though maybe not as protein-packed as the in past, which is probably a good thing for most of us. Still pretty cheap, too, starting at under $8, and even cheaper on Mondays when the chicken and veggie burritos are just $5. 1609 Durham (just south of I-10), 77007, (713) 426-6634

At Istanbul Grill