It’s a version of the familiar Italian-American sandwich, inspired by ones that proprietor Terrence Gallivan grew up with south of Washington, DC. But it’s made with much better ingredients and culinary sense than you’ll find with any chain sub shop offering. The Hoagie arrives wrapped in restaurant-branded paper, cut in half and served on a small plate. It’s quality mortadella, hot coppa – spicy, dried, cured capocollo – slices of provolone, a bit of mayonnaise and pickled vegetable giardinera, with its liquid seeping into the fresh and terrific house-made roll that’s densely topped with plentiful sesame seeds, which are much more for adornment and adding to the overall taste of the sandwich. A bit of a mess, as the fillings extend past the limits of the nearly-sliced-through-roll and with the giardinera juice, but delicious. The wrapping is a necessity in addition to making for a cool presentation.
No fries. No chips. No matter. Served solo, it can make for a near-perfect workaday lunch. The Hoagie arrives in two parts, perfect for sharing and as a part of a dinner with other items. Maybe not cheap at $18, it’s certainly worth it.
2405 Genesee (at Fairview), 77006