Everyone seems to love tacos in some form – there’s even a day of the week for it, the alliterative Tuesday. And there are plenty of places get tacos in Houston, from trucks that have long plied job sites or have found a place to park long term off busy street, at air conditioned taquerias serving broad menus, in out-of-town chains targeting teenagers with funky fillings, at restaurants where tacos are one of the only few Mexican or Tex-Mex items, and in bars which even might have destination-worthy creations.
 
Tacos have become more Mexican, and also less, in recent years. The crispy shelled tacos filled with ground beef, shredded lettuce and shredded cheddar cheese of my youth – the only ones we knew – are anomaly in the city these days. Nearly all tacos today have soft tortillas, more often corn than flour, with chopped onions and cilantro along with wedges of lime to accompany most of the meat-filled versions, as is done in Mexico. There are also restaurants, some with a number of locations, serving creative takes, using the tortilla as a multi-cuisine canvas – not unlike a pizza crust – for tacos with tofu, Korean fried rice, lamb keema, Buffalo chicken, etc.
 
Whatever the style, the best feature items that are cooked to order rather than scooped from a steam tray and with recently made tortillas accompanied by flavorful salsas. One thing I’ve found over the years is that pastor can be a test of a taco purveyor. The pork meat in an al pastor taco is a often a little dry and not very flavorful. It helps to have a trompo, a vertical roasting spit, though I’ve had versions made without that are quite tasty.
 
Listed in order of preference below, and just for the afternoon- , nighttime-type tacos. Breakfast tacos are something different, of course, and have a separate list.

The Best
 
Urbe – Opened in the summer of 2021, this street food outpost from Hugo Ortega and team in Uptown Park is necessarily more ambitious, wide-ranging and accomplished than just about any taco purveyor around. Though this does not have the culinary fireworks you may encounter at one of Hugo Ortega’s other three local Mexican restaurants – Hugo’s, Caracol and Xochi – Urbe serves tacos with the greatest depth of flavor around, some of the prettiest ones, too. These are three to an order, almost all with corn tortillas, and it’s tough to go wrong among pastor from the trompo, beef barbacoa, carnitas and chicharron, brisket with mushroom and chilaca pepper, birria with consommé, and certainly the charred octopus. Uptown Park
100% Taquito – The fare here is the street food of Mexico City: tacos, quesadillas, tortas, sopes, molletes, banderillas, etc., though done in a slightly more upscale and air-conditioned fashion. And the tacos here are taquitos; an order consists of three small tacos filled with a choice of excellent ingredients: chicken; barbacoa de brisket, or regular brisket, tinga, spicy brisket cooked with chipotle peppers, and pastor. There’s a choice between fresh corn or flour tortillas. These seem to taste a tad better with the more authentically Mexican corn tortillas. All taquitos are garnished with just cilantro and onions, as you might expect. The complimentary salsas, red and green, are excellent. The pico de gallo, suitably vibrant and zesty, is also a very nice complement to the dishes. The best bets have been the spicy brisket and the pork served with pineapple cubes. Quesadillas here are prepared in the Mexican fashion, very similar to tacos, might even be a better bet. Greenway Plaza
Master Taco – Parked at Richmond and Woodhead since the spring of 2020, this noticeably friendly taco truck staffed by a family from the state of Guerrero serves up terrific small tacos on flavorful house-made corn or flour tortillas Monday through Friday for lunch and early dinner, where, for good reason, you will usually find at least someone waiting near the intersection for their food. Those taquitos are what to order here, $2 on double corn tortillas, $2.50 for flour, though a little more for lengua and tripa – and the tender and flavorful lengua might be worth it. Beef, pastor, chicken, chicharron en salsa verde, chorizo with nopales, and carnitas round out the fillings, all worth ordering. Sopes, gorditas, quesadillas, chicharones, and the daily plates are also worth a try. Montrose
Tacos A Go Go – What began as a small storefront next to the Continental Club on Main Street in Midtown in 2006, Tacos A Go Go is the best of the Tacos 2.0 spots, a fun, very user-friendly mini-chain that hews closely to Mexico and Texas for its tacos, and doing nearly everything quite well – the salsas might need some more flavor and heat, though. Most tacos are assembled in the Mexican fashion with diced onions, chopped cilantro but it depends on the filling. And these offer the largest array of those of any local taco joint, and without a steam table. For beef, there’s grilled, brisket, carne guisada, picadillo, and the now necessary birria with consommé. For the other proteins: chicken a few ways, fish, shrimp and even lamb barbacoa, which won statewide acclaim from Texas Monthly, as did the pollo guisado. Vegetarian, a couple vegan versions and one with the quite odd tater tots round out the options. Also, you can get one of its breakfast tacos at any time, very nicely. Midtown, Heights, Garden Oaks, Greenway Plaza, Downtown
Eight Row Flint – Primarily a bar, or bars now, these are also great stops for tacos even with no drinks in the plans. A fun and enticing small complement of choices is led by the richly flavorful beef cheek barbacoa with the beef sourced from the well-regarded 44 Farms. The East End location has a different lineup including an odd roasted pork belly with crispy octopus combination. The similarly odd but also still trendy Brussel sprouts are in the middle of tacos at both locations, which proudly make their own corn tortillas. Unfortunately, only one tortilla is provisioned per taco, making for a mess as it’s impossible to finish taco, at least a barbacoa taco, before it falls apart. A second and nearly necessary tortilla per taco is, annoyingly, an extra buck. Heights, East End
Papalo Taqueria – The star of Finn Hall on Main Street is a small stall dishing artisanal tacos at a measured clip. There’s just five choices, each interesting, suitably accompanied and wrapped in tortillas made in-house from stone-mill ground heirloom corn: pork shoulder in a roasted tomatillo salsa, an actually flavorful chicken taco – with marinated chicken thighs – brisket, pork belly, and even one with a confit carrot centerpiece. About $5 a taco. You might need three. Downtown
Tio Trompo – As its name suggests, the key attraction at this quaint taqueria just past Saint Thomas High School on nearly finished Shepherd is the output from the trompo that’s tough to miss behind the counter. That slowly roasted pork, which retains its moistness unlike at far too many taquerias in Houston, makes its way into tacos, tortas and something called the Taco Arabe. That large taco is a version of the shawarma that originated with Lebanese immigrants who brought the trompo to Mexico a century or so ago and a specialty of the city of Puebla southeast of Mexico City. Stick with the tacos featuring pork, which are much tastier than any of the beef and chicken ones. Washington Corridor
Fusion Taco – What began as a taco truck several years ago is a friendly and inviting counter-service spot outside the Heights and the other, a newly opened spot in a food court in Greenway Plaza. Fusion Taco does the wide-ranging fillings better than any of the other Tacos 2.0 joints found in the area. Smoked Brisket, Chicken Tikka Masala, Agedashi Tofu, Falafel, Chicken Fried Oyster and Seared Brussels Sprouts are few of the dozen-and-a-half taco options whose inspirations cover a fair amount of the globe, all of which are thoughtfully comprised with quality ingredients and attractively presented. These are some of the prettiest tacos in town. More importantly, most taste at least pretty good and usually better. One is the Lamb Keema featuring cooling pieces of cucumber slice and a greenish tahini for a refreshing ground lamb taco served in a nicely texturally contrasting fried corn tortilla shell. Unfortunately, the chicken in a couple of the tacos might a little on the dry side. For some reason, the near-liter-sized white plastic bottle of the unique San Luis brand hot sauce (mild) available to bring back to your table seems to make nearly all the tacos better, including making those two chicken tacos enjoyable. Heights
Polanquito – This quaint bistro across the small street from Tio Trompo provides a little taste of a prosperous Mexico City neighborhood and a variety of tasty and pretty tacos, some served solo, in pairs or trios featuring pork, beef and seafood. There’s a delicious conchinita pibil with habanero salsa, carnitas with pickled jalapeños, notable beer-battered fried fish or shrimp with chipotle mayonnaise and pickled red onions, grilled ribeye with panela cheese, beans, and guacamole, and a beef steak with a skirt of cheese, costra-style. All worth an order. Washington Corridor
La Vibra – Serving something a little different, and a little more expensive, this quaint, largely sterile space offers are a slightly refined version of Mexico City style tacos. Tacos are small and come in three styles, classico, which will be familiar, a volcán that’s atop a toasted corn tortilla, and the even more unique Costra – born a couple decades or so ago near a night club in Mexico’s capital – with a layer of crusty Gouda cheese at its bottom. Noticeably good quality ingredients and superb salsas in a quintet of styles, including tamarindo and mole ones, help complete the tacos, of which the trompo-sliced pastor and the battered and deep-fried, but surprisingly light, shrimp and fish fillings are among the best choices. Heights
El Topo – Set deep in the heart of prosperous and well-groomed West U, this is a stop for tasty, nicely adorned and attractively presented tacos with a slick güeros ricos vibe. There should be one or more for most tastes: beef barbacoa featuring 44 Farms product, a trio of roasted mushrooms, barbecued chicken, roasted vegetables, pastor with pork belly but not trompo, and even a crispy ground beef version harkening back to youthful Tex-Mex memories of many nearby parents. Not much of a value, as the average-sized tacos run $6 to $8 a piece here. West U
Cantina Barba – Open after the bars close, when tacos can taste even better, this small drive-in is not far from I-45 on N. Main and not far from the Heights. Unusually and very welcome, barbacoa and breakfast tacos are served all the time, even combining for the Barbacoa Deluxe. There’s also carne asada, grilled chicken, al pastor, papas con rajas, and smoked pork in corn tortillas to satisfy most of those taco cravings. Near North Side
Tacos Doña Lena – A solid choice that is just a little nicer and much hipper than the typical Mexican-themed restaurant in Spring Branch that can be very busy on the weekends for its take on birria in several forms, including in between two corn tortillas, and its range of tacos. This offeres a large number of choices, many more than most. For the meats, from beef to pork to chicken to offal, there’s beef, bistek, barbacoa, chile negro con carne, pastor, pierna, chorizo, chicharron rojo, chicharron verde, along with tripa and lengua. For non-meat, nopalitos, calabacitas, and an odd soy pastor. The meats, especially the pastor can come out a bit dry, but this is one place where it’s safe to order the lengua. Corn is the default tortilla, but flour can be had for an additional $0.75. The typical chopped cilantro and onions can also be swapped for a Tacos Gringo version with lettuce, tomatoes and cheese in a flour tortilla, harkening back to an older Spring Branch. Spring Branch
Solecita – This “churreria y taqueria” in the heart of downtown is a slick, bright and friendly counter-service spot dishing well-made versions of tacos and tortas filled with a small number of more traditionally Mexican items: the recent-years popular birria, carnitas, chicken tinga, Campechanos – fajita beef, chorizo, topped with dried chicharron – poblanos and potatoes, and barbacoa, which is beef rather than lamb now. The tacos come first with corn tortillas but flour can also be had. Cool and breezy open-air seating is upstairs and there’s a patio out front that shares space with the churro cart, a welcome addition to the nighttime street scene. Those are also worth an order, if you’ve avoided that third taco.
La Chingada – With a subtitle of “Tacos & Tequila,” this friendly, small counter-service spot not far north of the Heights sells a fair amount of its fair-sized tacos from a wide-ranging menu on both house-made corn and flour tortillas. Near North Side
Laredo Taqueria – The lines running out the door of the original location on Washington of this air conditioned taco stand from about 7:30 AM to 1:30 PM and often beyond, are a testament to its popularity which derives in large part because of healthy-sized tacos on fresh flour tortillas that are nicely priced with a range of fillings from steam trays prefaced by a smear of refried beans unless you specify otherwise. Three is enough for most, and four for a really gluttonous meal. Never mind the occasional piece of cartilage or gristle, as these are never enough to ruin a taco. The locations on the near north side operated by other family members might be more consistent – or just less crowded – especially the one on Patton, but this location is far more convenient for most. Washington Corridor, Near North Side (3)
Brothers Taco House – A popular, value-oriented option with locally popular fillings dished from steam trays just outside of downtown. Don’t be dismayed if the queue extends outside, it moves quickly. EaDo
Gerardo’s – The barbacoa is the star at this Patton Street staple that’s been serving this north side neighborhood for nearly five decades. And now available on Friday in addition to the weekends. Near North Side
Tacos La Bala – Earnest, very casual, counter-service restaurants serving mostly a Mexican immigrant crowd, these offer tacos with the choice between corn and flour tortillas for nearly ten fillings including pork from the trompo, chicharon, fajita, barbacoa along with tripe and tongue. All of these can be fit into a quesadilla, gordita, tostada or sope for just a little more. Bellaire, Alief (3), North
TJ Birria’s y Mas – As the name indicates, this is a birria specialist, a slick and convenient one at that, and does tacos with that quite well. There’s also Mexico City-style tacos with pastor, beef fajita or chicken, five small ones to an order, attractively plated with double layer of corn tortillas, lime wedges, chopped cilantro and red onion. Heights, Stafford

At Urbe

For three decades now, the nexus of interesting Chinese restaurants has been along Bellaire Boulevard in Chinatown. But today there are other areas with restaurants serving quality traditional and contemporary Chinese food including Sugar Land, the restaurant-filled Katy Asian Town, and even inside the Loop. The last has been one of the most significant and welcome changes in Houston dining in the past two decades, for me at least.
 
When I started writing about restaurants in Houston that began with the inaugural edition of Houston Dining on the Cheap published in 2002, with an easily overlooked exception or two, the only restaurants that were serving dishes beyond the familiar Chinese-American staples in all their gloppiness and simplicity were in and around Bellaire Boulevard. The number of those more authentic Chinese restaurants has grown with growth of immigration and migration from China. Along with those working the Medical Center, the number of Chinese in Houston has grown significantly, and it’s often professionals at companies inside the Loop, like my own. It can pay to help feed them. That’s been a boon to Houston diners, regardless of origin, with many more appealing Chinese restaurants, an increased diversity in cuisines, and a few really fine values, too.
 
With that greater range of Chinese fare available, there’s been an explosion of Sichuan restaurants and spicy Sichuan dishes in the past decade. That classic Sichuan dish, kung pao chicken, has long been around but it wasn’t made like it was made in its home province, in part because it didn’t have uniquely flavored and numbing Sichuan peppercorns. Feared as carriers of a bacterial disease, Sichuan peppercorns were banned in this country from 1968 until 2005. Chinese food here has gotten a lot better, and more Sichuan since then. There’s a lot of Sichuan cooking to be encountered here now. It’s popular with diners, seemingly nearly everywhere.
 
Along with kung pao chicken and its nearly as frequently seen Sichuan brethren, mapo tofu, Shanghai’s soup dumplings and the famous Peking duck are found in most local Chinese restaurants. Hot pots are a big draw for Chinese patrons, but don’t have nearly the appeal beyond. And General Tso’s Chicken might never be retired from the field as most Chinese restaurants continue to battle for customers of all stripes.
 
Listed alphabetically, and each are more enjoyable when eaten and dishes shared with others.
 
Chengdu Taste – Sichuan – This Sichuan specialist, named after the capital of that province, actually has its roots in Los Angeles. Popular with transplants from China, it’s a nice fit amidst a clutter of other restaurants on Bellaire Boulevard, serving an array of both locally popular Sichuan dishes along with earthier preparations that might not play as well elsewhere in the city. Intestines, chicken gizzards, beef tripe and pork hock star along with kung pao chicken and sauteed green beans. Chinatown
Cooking Girl – Sichuan – This was first of the in-town, authentically Chinese restaurants when it opened from a Chongqing native in 2015 in a small space in the heart of Montrose – now housing Cucharita – earning plenty of local attention and spawning Pepper Twins. It has changed and grown, now in three user-friendly and friendly locations that are not intimidating for the casual Chinese food consumer, except for the tiny parking lot at the smart Montrose location, and maybe the noted Mr. and Mrs. Smith appetizer, which features beef tendon and tripe there. It is worth a try, though. Montrose, Medical Center, Sugar Land
Duck N Bao – Sichuan / Peking Duck – Serving a contemporary take on Chinese fare “while keeping it authentic,” this duo specializes in “Peking duck, soup dumplings, and Sichuan cuisine.” The menus, which include some dim sum item, too, actually make sense, especially for areas far from Bellaire Boulevard. The owners are, fairly appropriately, from Beijing and Sichuan province and offer an array of usually well-executed preparations that will appeal to a gamut of customers. There’s more beef than at most Chinese restaurants and several widely recognized dishes. Nicely, and reflecting its names, Peking Duck can be had without advance order and even in half-orders. Memorial Park, Cypress
Fung’s Kitchen – Dim Sum / Cantonese Seafood – Returning from an enforced two-year hiatus due to a fire in late 2022, the cart-driven and wide-ranging dim sum service hit its stride more quickly than its later-in-the-day seafood emphasis. It’s the best, and most fun, dim sum spot in the area. Tanks hold lobster, a restaurant specialty, that can be prepared in a number of ways, featuring jalapeño and garlic, black pepper, black bean, coconut curry and even in a hot pot. Blue crabs appear in a number of preparations, even in soft shell form, as do another top local product, shrimp. The menu is voluminous; Peking duck, of course, a section highlighting free-range chicken, and a number of noodle and fried rice items that should be able to entice most palates. After the rebuild, the expansive setting is nicer, more inviting than ever, sitting at what is about the eastern gateway to restaurant-mad Bellaire Boulevard. Chinatown
Hai Cang Harbor – Cantonese Seafood – Set in one of the many strip centers along Bellaire Boulevard that’s adorned with live sea creatures along the walls – fish, lobsters, crabs, large geoduck clams, spot prawns, and striking marbled goby swimming in the large tanks – that are primed to star in a meal. Dungeness crabs are a specialty along with one of the whole steamed fishes. Less grand, traditional preparations like Shrimp with Scrambled Egg and Walnut Shrimp with Mayo Sauce can also aptly satisfy. The menu is huge, but the helpful staff can provide recommendations or there are dinners for six, eight and ten that might be easiest of all with a group. Chinatown
Lao Sze Chuan – Sichuan – These two branches of a Chicago-based chain provide nicer settings than most for Sichuan-rooted cooking that’s aimed for a broad audience with a menu – tendon, tripe and lung aren’t to be found – and dishes like its signature twice cooked pork that can delight. BYOB. Chinatown, Montrose
Mala Sichuan Bistro – Sichuan – Named after the unique numbing and hot flavors of Sichuan cooking, the “ma” and the “la,” its initial location along Bellaire Boulevard helped popularize that cuisine to non-Chinese in Houston, incorporating a decent beverage program, in part. And the second spot, in the heart of Montrose, has the look of a modern Asian bistro. But the food is the draw. The House Special Funky Cold Noodles, Kung Pao Chicken with the Sichuan peppercorns, and Dry Pot Fish Fillet – battered and deep fried fillet seasoned with ginger, garlic, dry red chiles and Sichuan peppercorns – are a few usual standouts. Chinatown, Montrose, Heights, Sugar Land, Katy
Mama’s Kitchen – Sichuan – An easy-to-overlook spot nearly across Richmond from a Costco amidst a flurry of other small eateries, this churns out some tasty, if fairly straightforward Sichuan fare. The Szechuan Stir-Fried Lamb (with pickled pepper, parsley, ginger, garlic, dried red pepper and sliced serranos), the similar Szechuan Stir-Fried Beef, its take on Spicy Chicken Chunks, and the Pan-Fried Pork are a few of the frequently ordered winners. The menu hosts a number of popular Sichuan-rooted preparations among a variety of proteins, vegetable dishes, fried rice, a few hot pots, and also a few smoothies and milk teas. Greenway Plaza
Mein – Cantonese – With a stylish, contemporary setting in Chinatown, this “offers food that reflects the immigrant Cantonese experience.” It hits the right notes with plenty of appealing preparations like Charsiu, honey roasted pork here, the chilled Hand Pulled Chicken featuring poached free-range chicken, Garlic Eggplant, and the spicy Drunken Noodles with shrimp. Reflecting that emigrant experience from Canton, there are also some Vietnamese, Thai and Singaporean items. Chinatown
Ocean Palace – Cantonese Seafood / Dim Sum – This giant two-story restaurant – nearly 40,000 square feet of it – has anchored a corner of Hong Kong City Mall for nearly a quarter century. Serving dim sum daily via cart to a multi-cultural local crowd daily until 5:00, the offerings are especially grand on Sundays. But it might be a better bet for its on-the-menu Cantonese cooking that’s heavy on the seafood with items like Fried Salt and Pepper Dungeness Crab, Lobster with Ginger and Scallions, and the House Special Crispy Fried Egg Noodles. Chinatown
One Dragon – Shanghainese –  Tucked into a strip center space on Bellaire Boulevard, this quaint spot seating less than forty has been sought out for their delicious and delicately sheathed soup dumplings that are filled with pork or pork and shrimp, the standard in the city. Other Shanghai specialties, the crispy bottom bao with shrimp or pork, braised pork belly with hard-boiled eggs, and scallion pancakes are also tough to pass on. The kitchen does well with larger plates featuring beef and duck, and likely hairy crab, too, if it was available. Chinatown
Pepper Twins – Sichuan – Eclipsing its parent Cooking Girl, these Sichuan stalwarts distinguish themselves with the noticeably high quality of the meats, which is readily apparent with the chicken dishes. Tilapia is the fish of choice here, but the fish preparations like Hot Diving Fish and Fish Loves Tofu are loved by many Chinese patrons. Their versions of Ma Po Tofu and Mongolian Beef, the very spicy Pepper Twins and starters Spicy Potato Silk with Vinegar and Dry-Fried Green Beans are a few of the stars. To note, the Kirby and San Felipe locations are more consistent than the one on West Gray, which has noticeably slipped. Montrose, Upper Kirby District, Galleria Area
Regal Seafood House & Lounge – Cantonese / Dim Sum – One of the best Chinese restaurants in the area. At least moniker that is what a fair number of Chinese nationals believe and they pack the restaurant on a regular basis for Cantonese and Honk Kong-style cuisine, mostly seafood, plus one of the better versions of Peking duck in the city. The duck is even cut in front of you. Dim sum items are also served, and though these might not quite reach level of Fung’s Kitchen further north on the freeway, these can be quite tasty, and even has well-crafted versions of Shanghai’s soup dumplings. The interior includes a cozy bar area off the entrance – the “Lounge” in the name – banquettes complementary the necessary large round tables and shiny white marble-like walls. Somewhat modern. Muted. Pleasant. This is not your typical Chinatown restaurant, it’s nicer and service is better, if not overly polished, especially if you don’t speak Cantonese or Mandarin. Without those language skills or a dining companion in the know, the menu can be a little interesting to navigate, but with the quality of the cooking, it will like be a very enjoyable journey. Sugar Land
Taste of Mulan – Dim Sum – Yes, it’s got a silly name and an unpromising location in a dull strip center along side wing and a pizza chain spots, but this dishes some nice dim sum staples and more daily by menu card. It’s not that cheap, but a trio or quartet of those small plates makes for a satisfying visit. There’s also another menu of the more-familiar Sichuan and other items, but are best ignored. Midtown
Tim Ho Wan – Dim Sum – A famed chain originally from Hong Kong – where it held a Michelin star for over a decade – and with several stateside locations, this Katy Asian Town spot has been packed with customers since finally opening in 2022. Serving well-crafted versions of the familiar dim sum items via menu – except a contemporary baked rather than steamed take on char siu bao – service is noticeably attentive to complement the satisfying fare. There are also good-sized soups serving as a meal for the single diner. Katy
Wanna Bao – Shanghainese / Sichuan – Proclaiming itself on its signage as “Hearty Chinese Bistro / Dumpling House.” It is. And a good one at that, and in a hip, industrial-sparse bistro-like setting at the edge of Midtown is well beyond what would be typical of a similar place along Bellaire Boulevard, serving both dishes from Shanghai, including soup dumplings, of course, and the madly popular spicy Sichuan region, Wanna Bao succeeds with both – as with both ends of its signage, the dumplings for certain. Midtown

One of the flavorful creations found at Mein

Hamburgers might be the most American of foods, stereotypically and often deliciously so, and fatteningly, at least. And there are more high-quality burgers served in Houston than ever before. It seems nearly every pricey restaurant does a commendable burger, and usually much better, during lunchtime. But the heart of this post is what I refer to broadly as burger joints, restaurants that specialize in burgers, usually at an affordable price buttressed by a casual atmosphere, or one where burgers are a big reason for a visit. This are where most of the burgers are consumed. Quality burgers that is. Also, burgers for this just means hamburgers, not turkey burgers, bean burgers or the horrific Impossible burgers.
 
Featuring ground beef patties, sometimes from a named purveyor, with a suitable amount of fat for flavor and juiciness, these are the heart of a good burger. Typically cooked on the flat top grill, sometimes smashed to create an exterior char, or over an open flame, whatever method, the ones recommended are all cooked to order. A quality bun helps, but not quite as much as for bread for sandwiches. Some worthwhile spots don’t do much with the buns other than toasting them for a little additional support. The other components can help or hurt. It’s annoying to come across tomato slices that are not red nor soft. The best local burgers feature high quality ingredients, except for the widespread predilection for that processed cheese food, American cheese. Meltability. Seemingly, whatever the components, even a minimal number, burgers are invariably messy, one of the messiest foods around.
 
A ridiculous number of burgers were consumed in the research for this: well over 500 in area restaurants over the years as a food writer, if not quite Wimpy-esque in this pursuit. I hope that my cardiologist doesn’t stumble on this piece.
 
Divided among burger joints, nicer restaurants with appealing burgers, and the best of the out-of-town chains and listed in order of preference in each section. Though fries are the almost necessary accompaniment to a burger order, this list is just for the burgers. Fries are a different matter and are too often disappointing, even when the burger is really satisfying. I’ve got a separate post for those.
 
The 20 best casual spots for a burger
 
Burger Chan – The notepad menu used to order at this family-friendly counter-service place near the Galleria can initially seem overwhelming with the all the possibilities: two styles and sizes of patties, the number of patties, one the several buns or not, the cheeses, the extra proteins, the vegetables, free and not, the many condiments and sides, many unusual. Scallion aioli, soy serrano peppers, pickled habaneros, kimchi relish, and seared spam are some of the fun you can have in the creation. In a sense, it doesn’t matter what you check on the sheet because the burger you come up with will be excellent. Top-notch ingredients and expert cooks will make it work. The key decision is between the two-ounce smashed patties or five-ounce grilled. The former results in a slightly crisp and very beefy, very flavorful patty among the accompaniments. The larger grilled patties are more like an upscale version of the backyard burger. The superb, fresh brioche bun might be the best choice for any of the burgers; classic, but better. Good, crisp fries, too. The meticulousness extends to the order-taking; the line can move painfully slow. It’s certainly worth it, though. Galleria Area
Burger Bodega – Just nicely crusty smashed burgers here now available options for single, double or triple patties. Go for the triple, it’s really not that large nor obnoxious and the burgers are so delicious. Topped with American cheese, grilled onions, house-made pickles, their own slightly spice sauce with soft potato bun, it all works together really well, and in even messier fashion than most. Though base accompaniments are perfectly fine, you can spice it up with jalapeños or habaneros, or a spicy aioli or mayonnaise. Fries, though, aren’t really necessary. Get another burger. The small spot features cheeky decorations of the familiar supermarket items with labels replaced with Houston or Burger Bodega labels. Popular since opening in the second half of 2022, there’s a good chance you’ll have to wait in the line extending out the door, as these burgers are deservedly very popular. Washington Corridor
Underbelly Burger – These are just similar two burgers at this tiny space in the commercial farmers market off Airline, both descendants of Hay Merchant’s Cease and Desist Burger that won national plaudits: two patties, American cheese, lettuce, tomato slices, house-made pickles and a slightly piquant House Sauce. Both messy and delicious. One version is made with agnus beef from 44 Farms. The other for a couple of dollars more, is wagyu from R-C Ranch. Nicely, both of these are suppliers for the upscale Georgia James steakhouse, and the burger joint is “utilizing the whole cow so nothing goes to waste.” Heights
Pappas Burger – As a hamburger joint with Pappas in the name, Pappas Burger is pretty much what you would expect from the family. This is a good thing. Pappas Burger is a slicker-than-usual operation for a modestly priced restaurant that primarily serves hamburgers: service is much better; the setting is cleaner and more comfortable; the food is well prepared; the large portions provide a decent value; and the menu hits more accurately at its target patrons. The burgers are made with patties of around one-third pound. These are cooked to the properly charred exterior while retaining a moist interior at medium well. The buns and the rest of the accompaniments are fresher, and better than at most burger places. For burgers, creations beyond the basic Pappas Burger, there are a cheeseburger, double cheeseburger, chili cheeseburger, and the Hickory Cheddar Bacon Burger. All worth ordering, and all with freshly cut French fries. Galleria Area
Peaky Grinders – Making a name for itself in the seemingly-always-empty Railway Heights Market, these are simple, very tasty burgers that manage to be more than sum of its parts. The in-house ground patties are four-ounces each – two will be necessary for most – that are cooked on a flattop, smashed along the way for nicely crisp exterior retaining juiciness and sporting a nicely beefy flavor. Topped with American cheese and put into a somewhat bland toasted potato bun and adorned with their own pickles, a bit of onion along with some mustard and ketchup, these burgers eat very quickly. Moving to more appropriate digs in Midtown soon. Midtown
FM Kitchen – Beautiful burgers here. For burgers, at least. The base version, the FM Burger, with a four-ounce patty or two, comes with American cheese, lettuce, tomato slices, onion, their house sauce on a soft potato bun. The especially tasty Cooper Burger has a thick, beefy half-pound patty, that’s topped with melted queso for additional messiness, tomato, sturdy slices of bacon for a nice effect all on a high-quality Bread Man brioche bun. Spicy green chile and patty melt options, too. Washington Corridor
Hubcap Grill – Beginning as a burger shack downtown – literally, nearly a shack – unfortunately, there’s no longer a location in town other than the airport for these burgers with flattop-cooked patties of never-frozen beef and toasted house-made buns that easily satisfy. And there are nearly twenty ways one can be had. One star is an odd one, the NOLA Muffaletta Burger, with house-made olive dressing, Swiss cheese and a mayonnaise sauce. I’m still not sold on the one with crunchy Cheetos, though. IAH, Pearland, Galveston
Winnie’s – It’s just the Winn-A-Burger at this somewhat funky, casual joint by light rail stop that does a number of things enticingly well. Featuring a 44 Farms beef patty or two, American cheese, lettuce, tomato, pickles, onions, serrano mustard, and a black pepper-spiked mayo au poivre, its done Oklahoma style, that’s the patties being cooked on the flat top with thinly sliced onions. It retains flavor even when cooked all the way through. You have the choice of one or two of those. Fries or a unique side Caesar to accompany for $3 more. And you can get a nicely done cocktail for $7 if visiting during lunch weekday. Midtown
Flip 'n Patties – Providing a Filipino twist and a sense of humor at a couple locations, in the Understory food hall downtown and along the Energy Corridor, for burgers featuring Akaushi beef, which is known for its rich, meaty flavor. The half-dozen-plus burger creations are fun like its namesake Flip 'n Patties Burger featuring a deep-fried panko stuffed portabella mushroom cap, cheddar cheese, a couple strips of bacon, lettuce, a tomato slice, and a couple house sauces. The PogiMelt with two patties and sauteed onions is in the running for messiest burger in the city.  Downtown, West Houston
Lankford Grocery – The biggest draw here is the excellent hamburgers, as is well known. Quite tasty; properly juicy and unpretentious even with the somewhat wild versions. Not the designer-style hamburgers, these are the basic, flavorful burgers that you wish you could consistently make on the backyard grill. Lankford begins with large handmade patties about a third-pound in size or so that are grilled to order all the way through, and are served with a slice of usually ripe tomato, thickly sliced white onions, and an ample-sized leaf of crisp iceberg lettuce on large toasted hamburger buns. You can get these fitted with cheese and bacon and with a second patty and in a variety of other toppings. Midtown
Armadillo Palace – One of the several concepts from estimable Goode Co. collection, among the casual, hearty Houston-suited preparations there’s a nice burger, the Damn Goode Burger, in fact. It’s a half-pound patty featuring proprietary blend of beef ground in-house and cooked to the desired temperature and fitted in a soft, fresh house-made bun, buttered and toasted. It’s served with fries for $14. West U
Champ Burger – A tidy, friendly oasis in the East End, this has been serving more-than-satisfying hamburgers and other easy-to-eat foods since 1963. Under a large awning, there are usually a number of patrons waiting in line before the window to place or pickup an order, which are dispensed in brown bags. By the late morning these are usually a hamburger featuring one-third prime ground chuck patties that are nicely cooked with a crust bounding them. Available with cheese, bacon, and chili, the unadorned version is quite tasty, too. For sides, the pre-cut fries are served hot and crispy, but nothing special. Much better for an additional fifty cents are the thick, deep golden-hued, and very appetizing onion rings. To note, the only seating here is around the side from the counters, outside on concrete tables under large umbrellas, and it’s closed on the weekends. East End
Jonathon’s The Rub – Bustling neighborhood restaurants offering a range of west Houston comfort foods, several burgers done well, included. Attractively presented to a great height – maybe the tallest burgers in town – these can be even messier than usual to consume. Memorial, West Side
Becks Prime – Serving fast food that’s more upscale, more considered, and more expensive, the burgers here have been a local favorite since the first Becks Prime opened in 1985. These are “made with fresh, never-frozen 100% certified Angus beef” and usually cooked to medium, or often a little more, but are always nicely juicy and satisfying. Attractive packaging, very thick, and nicely convenient but slow-moving drive-thru are other hallmarks. Upper Kirby District, Memorial Park, Briargrove, Energy Corridor, West Houston, Meyerland, Sugar Land, Katy, The Woodlands
Burns Burger Shack – Adjacent to the longtime barbecue joint and pork ribs star, this burger specialist cooks up a well-seasoned, one-third 44 Farms beef patties to a typically well-done finish, though not overly so, and fitted within a nice, toasted brioche bun along with the  lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle, mayonnaise, mustard and noticeable ketchup for a fine result. Fried egg additions are popular, and double patties and bacon can be had, too. Fries or sweet potato fries, and a lot of them to an order. Acres Homes
Stanton’s City Bites – A noticeably friendly and comfortable little stop for the burger fix just west of downtown that’s been around for decades, the burgers here are made with half-pound patties in about a dozen options. One of the best features plentiful grilled mushrooms, bacon, Swiss cheese and mayonnaise. Sixth Ward
The Nickel Sandwich Grill – The one burger here has a half-pound juicy patty grilled to the desired redness in the middle and served with verdant non-iceberg lettuce and ripe tomato slices. It’s in the tradition of the great Fifth Ward burgers of the past, The Lockwood Malt Shop and Adrian’s, if not quite as hefty. The fries are cut by hand, and fried crisp enough are tasty, and more recommended accompaniment than at many other places. Fifth Ward
Ray’s Real Pit BBQ – Barbecue and fried fare are bigger draws at this strip center space along OST not far east of the Med Center, but it sports a tasty unique burger, The Big Herb, named after one of the proprietors and pitmaster, former NFL lineman, Herb Taylor. It features a nearly-heart-stopping combination of a fully cooked half-pound patty topped with some really tasty chopped brisket, thick slices of bacon, shredded cheese and barbecue sauce. There’s also a basic burger and the another hefty one, the Shack Burger with two patties, grilled onions, shredded cheese and jalapeños. Avoid the odd-tasting onion rings. Third Ward
Hobbit Café – If not for a parking lot’s expanse of an asphalt crowded with cars, you might envision that this low-slung Tudor-style building housing the Tolkien-themed restaurant sits on a shire. Though known more so for its healthy options over the five decades, this it has a big range of enjoyable if somewhat pricey burgers that have a following featuring patties cooked to medium and surrounded by decent quality ingredients and good-sized buns that can be had in wheat, too. Fries are extra, and not that great. Upper Kirby District
The Burger Joint – Solidly rendered burgers in about a dozen ways, late nights, even until 4 AM on weekends at the Montrose location, and a comfortable, casual sports bar vibe are the draws at these well-run, popular patio spots. Parking is noticeably tough at the Montrose original. Montrose, Heights
 
Five nicer restaurants where burgers aren’t the main attraction, but excellent
 
Alice Blue – This longstanding Heights comfort spot might not receive all the credit it’s due, as it seems to excel in nearly everything, and that includes its burger. Double Bacon Cheeseburger, with challah bun, aioli, pickled red onions, pickles, lettuce, French fries for $17. For both lunch and dinner. Heights
Squable – There’s only the French Cheeseburger at this Heights star, but it’s rather famed. It has a “stout” beef patty, gooey Raclette cheese, butter, pickles, and is served with crisp fries for $20 that’s actually a deal. Heights
Nancy’s Hustle – Originating in what was once named the best burger in the country by Bon Appetit – Chef Jason Vaughan was on the opening team at Chicago’s Au Cheval – the Cheeseburger here is on a brioche English muffin a little differently, with American cheese, pickles, and slices of red onion. Delicious. East End
Bistro Menil – This adjunct to the Menil museums does an excellent job with the burgers during lunchtime that feature a hearty half-pound of beef and some more upscale accompaniments. The four enticing options are the Manchego Cheese and Jamón Serrano Burger; one with porcini-mushroom-rubbed patty served with bacon, truffled cheese, and caramelized onions; another with chevre and with lemon-avocado salad; and The Classic, cheddar cheese, Bibb lettuce, tomato, and Dijonnaise. For $18, these also come with home fries and cornichons. Montrose
Riel – The eclectic menu at this terrific Montrose bistro has a take on dairy land Wisconsin’s butter burger. Here it’s a small burger with a slice of melted American cheese, caramelized onions, and butter, for $15 for two of these fantastic sliders. As with other things, butter works well on a burger. Montrose
 
Five out-of-town burger chains that are actually worth a visit
 
Like its beefy brethren, steaks, high quality hamburgers can be replicated readily in restaurant concepts spanning the country.
 
Five Guys – Though the settings are here are very basic, a single largely unadorned room with tables scattered about, and not terribly inviting, the straightforward but quality ingredient-laden burgers featuring flat-top grilled patties are consistently really good. Better than most burger joints, for sure. 15 Houston area locations
Fuddruckers – Founded back in 1980 and showing its age at some locations, these are maybe not as satisfying as in the past, but usually still quite satisfying. The aroma of freshly baked buns when entering are a key reason along with “fresh, never frozen” beef available in one-third, one-half and two-third pound patties that are grilled to order. The produce bars and cheese food dispensers are fun and way to make your burger creation even more messy to eat. Greenway Plaza, Third Ward, Jersey Village, CityCentre, Kingwood, West Houston, Stafford, Tomball, Webster
Smashburger – A chain that has gotten less slick and less nice over the years – tables not well bussed and settings that can seem a bit trashy – but the smashed burgers with Angus beef and a nice exterior crispness remain quite pleasing in a half-dozen options. Greasy but enjoyable thin, crisp fries are a fitting side. Heights, Med Center, Galleria Area, Energy Corridor, IAH
Shake Shack – These seem to taste the best at MinuteMaid, or at an airport when traveling – maybe its of the dearth of competitive offerings at those places – but are tasty elsewhere, too, if expensive for what they are. The smallish burgers are flavorful, even if the soft potato buns are not ideal, getting mushy rather too quickly, and the fries are lame. Just stick to the basics and avoid the pricier specialty burgers like a seasonal white truffle burger with no discernible taste of truffles, for example. Downtown, Montrose, Rice Village, Galleria Area, The Woodlands
Rodeo Goat – An outpost of a bar-burger concept that fifteen different options or so, most featuring popular regional flavors like Bad Hombre with candied bacon, caramelized onions, Gouda, a mango pico de gallo, habanero salsa plus a cooling cream cheese spread. Anchored by noticeably good patties, the accompaniments can sometimes lag, as do the fries. EaDo

As it’s become wealthier and more densely populated, the Heights has become a dining destination in the past decade. And there are a few places, even only for drink, that are just plain cool. It’s a far cry from when my brother and sister-in-law moved there a couple of decades ago when there was virtually nothing of note and no bars, officially. Just private clubs back then.
 
One of the more welcome developments with this, tracking with other parts of the city, is that there are now interesting Asian restaurants in the Heights. Where once there were only quickly forgettable Chinese-American and Vietnamese places, there are now several really noteworthy and even drive-worthy Asian-rooted concepts. White Oak, busy with restaurants clustered often unattractively just west of Studewood, is home to a trio of excellent sushi stops: Ume, Handies Douzo, and 5kinokawa. There’s even a couple of appealing Korean concepts right there, far from Long Point.
 
Listed alphabetically.
 
5kinokawa – Sushi – The latest addition to what has become a destination for sushi, White Oak, joining Handies Douzou and Ume. From Chef Billy Kin, who help start Hidden Omakase, this also easy-to- miss fourteen-seat spot offers creative set-course omakase dinners of nigiri sushi and a good deal more – it helps to be somewhat open-minded here – with two seatings a from Thursdays through Sundays featuring ingredients flown in weekly from Toyosu in Tokyo and elsewhere that’s $150 per person, prepaid.
Alice Blue – American – A true public service for discerning diners in the Heights, and beyond, for years, including from its predecessor Shade, this offers up informed but unpretentious and delicious foods – like a modern Houston bistro – for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch; even pastries at the big farmers market on Saturday mornings. Items range somewhat far and wide but make sense here: hummus, flautas, crab remoulade, sautéed red snapper, steak frites, and even an excellent burger to boot. Well-done cocktails and an informed list of wines also help out.
Coltavare – Americanized Italian – A significant opening in 2014 for the Heights becoming a dining destination, as its contemporary takes on pastas and pizzas along with a breezy, easy charm have resonated with many diners.
Da Gama Canteen – Indian – “Drawing inspiration from the former Portuguese-Indian territory of Goa, Gujarat and Portugal all through our Houston lens” is how the experienced local restaurateurs (Oporto and The Queen Vic) describe the fare here, which will be mostly recognizably Indian to local diners but something a little different, and readily appealing. Appealing also applies to the quite comfortable, contemporary space scattered with tables, banquettes that feels roomy along with an attractive long bar punctuating one end and pleasant patio seating off the side. Set in the somewhat sprawling M-K-T complex at the edge of the Heights, the restaurant resides alongside a breezeway and a park that adds to the charm. Also do the presentations of dishes, belying its reasonable prices, including water served in fetching traditional metal cups that are very appropriate for our heat- and humidity-racked climate. Well-crafted mains run from $15 to $36, meat, seafood and vegetarian. And there plenty of tempting appetizers like East Coast oysters, plus house-made breads, curries, salads, and desserts, too. Cocktails in line with the cuisine, several fun wines on tap, and an intriguing, natural-heavy wine list. It all can encourage many returns.
Fields & Tides – New American – Charmingly set in a quaint former house on 11th Street, the Southern and southeastern influence is evident through much of the seafood-heavy menu with items like she crab soup, pimento cheese fritters, chicken and sausage gumbo, crispy Alabama catfish, and cast iron seared snapper. But carnivores and the more health-conscious have plenty of options, too. Influences and flavors from Italy and Asia are also found among the offerings. The wine list is quite limited and mostly supermarket-found as the often more brunch-appropriate cocktails take up more bandwidth here.
Handies Douzo – Sushi – From the folks at Kokoro and now Aiko, this handroll specialist can be an easy stop for the quick raw fish fix that has certainly resonated first along White Oak before successfully expanding to a second location on Montrose. Especially good nori – crisp, thin and more flavorful than usual – is first thing you’ll notice with the handrolls, the specialty. There’s also sashimi and crudos, which are worthy of attention, too.
Jun – Southeast Asian – An attractive and early 2023 entrant on 20th Street, this builds on the success of the Kin that charmed diners in the Politan Row food hall in the Village before the pandemic, and Chef Evelyn Garcia’s star turn in the locally set “Top Chef” season in 2022. Gulf shrimp aguachile, sweet potato lebneh, beef tartare with its classic egg yolk accompaniment but also toasted rice, lamb curry with pickled daikon, and a whole fish with guajillo chiles, red onions and charred limes are some of the inspired combinations that can trek beyond Asia.
Maison Pucha Bistro – French – This French outpost from Manuel Pucha, the former executive chef at the well-regarded La Table here, and his brothers, veterans of the New York restaurant trade, offers a menu of classic French restaurant preparations along with a few items – ceviches, principally – and flavors from their coastal Ecuadoran home. Like all local French-themed establishments here, the dishes aren’t very recent – steak frites, bouillabaisse, duck a l’orange, coq au vin – but can shine in execution along with attractive presentations. Dishes like the impeccably plump, moist filet of trout almondine in brown butter, especially so, and even a straightforward assemblage of top-flight charcuterie and cheese. The wines are sufficient, if not yet terribly interesting, and the bartenders quite adept in their mixology. The setting is quite stylish, contemporary, and welcoming, not to mention busy since the doors opened in late 2017, and the staff noticeably earnest and hard-working.
Mastrantos – New American – A bright and cozy spot with a concise, fairly eclectic menu that highlights the Venezuelan roots of the principals while incorporating some influences from around the world, well-suited for today’s Houston. A sample: salted beet and burrata salad with heirloom tomatoes and green apple to start, dumplings filled with African plantain paste with coconut curry, cucumbers, onions, and chickpeas; a pan-seared white fish with English cucumbers, red onion, tomatoes, feta, and balsamic. Freshly made pastas feature in seven dishes that can retain a slight South American accent. The small wine list will have enough to complement the meal and naturally skews to Spain, Italy and South America.
Squable – New American – Offbeat offerings mostly in small plate format done well are the calling card for this Heights hotspot that pairs the guidance of James Beard Award-winning chef Justin Yu of Theodore Rex and cocktail star Bobby Heugel of Anvil. They’ve assembled an experienced and skilled squad cooking, crafting and serving in an approachably hip space. On the menu there are several of each of breads, small plates, big plates and desserts compiled in contemporary fashion. The Common Bond heritage in the kitchen is evident with the baked goods, but there is much more to entice, from the sea, from plants and also tasty mammals like the crispy-skinned heritage pork served with salsa verde and the French cheeseburger – featuring raclette and butter – which is just a whole lot better than any Royale with cheese.
Ume – Sushi – From Chris Kenjo of MF Sushi and his team, this quaint-for-Houston space with about sixty seats, a small sushi counter and a good-sized bar with plenty of light wood and clean lines, is very well-suited for present-day Heights: attractively and intelligently designed, bustling, and serving excellent, upmarket fare
Wild Oats – Texan – From the Underbelly Hospitality folks, this provides a fun and chef-driven take into Texan fare from our part of the Gulf Coast, with necessary nods to our deeply imbedded Tex-Mex food culture. It features dishes found or inspired from restaurants of yore of various – well, much lower – price points, but done with better ingredients more adroitly, more interestingly, and serving nicely crafted cocktails and smartly chosen wines. Among the highlights from the well-edited menu is the manageably sized chicken fried steak that’s made with American wagyu beef; it’s the best version of that traditional dish in the city. There’s also Gulf snapper – done with hibiscus, beets, orange – fajitas, quesadillas, a King Ranch casserole, game like antelope or quail, and an artfully presented queso starter. The chili service shtick is fun, and quite tasty; dispensed by the shot, cup or bowl. It can be tough not get at least a shot, if not a bowl, of red before your entrée. Though the food and drink are done well, set in new construction adjoined to the commercial farmers market on Airline, the décor, unfortunately, is staid, boring, really, and with plenty of hard surfaces, it’s cacophonous even when many of the seats are empty.

One of the artfully composed dishes at Maison Pucha Bistro

I posted a few years ago that one of the most satisfying changes in the Houston restaurant scene for me was that there has been better and more dining options, including some very fine dining, featuring the cuisines from the subcontinent, Indian and Pakistani. These restaurants have expanded well beyond the buffets, though some are still found.
 
Listed alphabetically.
 
Aga’s – Pakistani – The lengthy menu at this longstanding southwest Houston favorite has numerous enticements, including vegetarian, but the grilled and goat preparations might be the biggest attractions. Curries are plentiful, featuring beef, seafood, chicken and vegetarian items, some from Peshawar that are made and presented in a wok-like karahi. For the chicken dishes, those with meat on the bone are noticeably more flavorful. Rice and naan and other tandoori-baked breads must be ordered additionally, but that’s small quibble here. Aga’s is an excellent value. The very functional space, bifurcated into two rooms, is in accordance with the value theme. Alief
Da Gama – West Indian – “Drawing inspiration from the former Portuguese-Indian territory of Goa, Gujarat and Portugal all through our Houston lens” is how the experienced local restaurateurs (Oporto and The Queen Vic) describe the fare here, which will be mostly recognizably Indian to local diners but something a little different, and readily appealing. Appealing also applies to the quite comfortable, contemporary space scattered with tables, banquettes that feels roomy along with an attractive long bar punctuating one end and pleasant patio seating off the side. Set in the somewhat sprawling M-K-T complex at the edge of the Heights, the restaurant resides alongside a breezeway and a park that adds to the charm. Also do the presentations of dishes, belying its reasonable prices, including water served in fetching traditional metal cups that are very appropriate for our heat- and humidity-racked climate. Well-crafted mains run from $15 to $36, meat, seafood and vegetarian. And there plenty of tempting appetizers like East Coast oysters, plus house-made breads, curries, salads, and desserts, too. Cocktails in line with the cuisine, several fun wines on tap, and an intriguing, natural-heavy wine list. It all can encourage many returns. Heights
Himalaya – Pakistani / West Indian – Deservedly garnering plenty of national attention in the past decade, it’s been modestly set in a restaurant-laden strip center off the Southwest Freeway since 2004 and been a smart stop for a tasty, spicy, robust and a great value meal. The oft-present owner, Kaiser, now well-known on the local restaurant scene, is welcoming and quick to explain the cuisine and offer suggestions. The various meats, chicken, lamb, goat and beef, are cooked to a very flavorful and properly moist conclusion. The restaurant does an especially good job with beef in a variety of ways. Perfect for Texas. Resha Gosht (a stew of shredded beef), beef vindaloo, Sandy’s Steak Tikka Bourdain (pieces marinated in a very flavorful mixture of garlic, ginger, chiles, papaya and yogurt than grilled) – recommended in my Houston Dining on the Cheap in 2007 that got its name a decade later. Another on-point food-show-lauded item or items is the Hunter’s Beef Plate Zimmern that either cured lean pastrami is served in thick slices with sliced tomatoes and a house mustard sauce or hot, chopped then sauteéd in butter and spices. The kitchen doesn’t seem to makes any missteps across the broad array of dishes. The fried chicken is even drawn plaudits far and wide. The vegetable offerings are limited but excellent, especially the popular saag paneer. Himalaya has also been well known locally for its biryanis. Among the desserts, the kheer is exceptional, thicker and tastier than other local versions, and one of a half-dozen sweet ways to finish a meal, provided you have some room, which is unlikely for most patrons. Southwest Houston
Kahn BBQ & Grill – Pakistani – Amazingly flavorful and surprisingly complex chana masala, dal, and goat curry, complemented with fresh naan and perfectly cooked rice, are a few of the highlights this very humble Pakistani stop on the west side. Humble is an understatement. The interior is unattractive – like the exterior – and fitted with uncomfortable booths and lacking any décor. This might be the least atmospheric restaurant in Houston. Take away seems very popular. The food can be so good, though. Spring Branch
Kiran’s – North Indian – A fine-dining stalwart for years and even longer as namesake Kiran Verma was highly regarded  for her work at Ashiana back in the 1990s. “Inspired by the Awadhi style of cooking – the art of cooking over a slow fire,” the preparations here can be traditional or creative, most attractively presented. The large menu begins with different starters like a salad with tandoor-roasted beets and goat cheese, foie gras with fig chutney, and roasted and lamb belly with candied jalapeños. Street Foods section provide more traditional first courses. For the larger dishes, there are items from the tandoor including duck and several fish filets that can provide a unique taste of the Gulf, biryanis, familiar curries, thalis with either a Panjabi or vegetarian theme, and more breads that about anywhere else. There are many options for any lover of Indian food. Unfortunately, staffing issues that have affected most restaurants have been much more noticeable at times here with the service, inept and even sloppy, that you don’t expect for this level of cooking, space, and prices. Upper Kirby District
Musafeer –  Pan Indian – The most recent local example of fine-dining Indian fare; this is the most impressive and the priciest, and the best. With the capacity of well over 500 diners in a series of ornately decorated rooms featuring artwork shipped from India, this upscale restaurant inside the Galleria mall offers preparations inspired by many traditions across India, sometimes creative and even featuring modernist or playful touches, especially for desserts, and always plated very attractively. The wide-ranging a la carte menu, unusually, also includes several beef dishes – a node to regions like Kerala with millenniums-old Christian populations. For an indulgent and fuller experience, choose a tasting menu. To complement the visit, there’s a smart list of wine and an array of creative cocktails including a slew of serious gin-and-tonics for $20. Galleria Area
Pondicheri – Pan Indian – An attractive, inviting space set in a smart upscale urban retail setting, this showcases the skills of Anita Jaisinghani, chef and co-owner, who has been delighting Houston diners with contemporary and vibrant renditions of Indian cooking since she opened Indika on the west side in 2001 and here from 2011. It’s full service at dinner with a bistro-like atmosphere and counter-service before then. Preparations scattered under headers like curries, thalis, small bites and tempting, fun desserts each provide a slew of evening options, many without animal proteins. If you are hungry early enough, the Indian-influenced breakfasts will likely entice about any Houstonian who enjoys well-done breakfast. There are about a dozen hot items all arriving quickly from the proficient kitchen plus several of the tempting breakfast pastries. It’s not your diner breakfast, with a coconut pancake that’s also made with almond and rice flour, a fermented dosa waffle, the French toast is brioche with cardamon, chocolate and bananas, and the Morning Thali. Among the knowing, international patrons you’ll probably hear an expensive English accent or two and have a sense that you’ve made a keen choice. Another indication of its quality is that a second branch which opened in Manhattan was named one of the ten best new restaurants several years ago by the New York Times. Upper Kirby District
Shri Balaji Bhavan – South Indian – In the heart of the Mahatma Ghandi District on Hillcroft, this bare-bones counter-service place serves a fully and lengthy vegetarian menu. Though it might be best to avoid the most familiar items like samosas to start and gulab jamen to finish, as these aren’t done as well as at other places, there are plenty of other dishes. Stick with the less seen items like Chole Bhatura, a piquant, flavorful chickpea curry served with a couple of initially puffy fried breads or one of the many dosas. An added bonus is that you might be able to feed yourself for less than $10 here, quite unusual these days. Southwest Houston
Surya – North Indian – A small, minimalist spot located in a small space on Durham a couple of blocks south of Washington. With a concise menu of mostly familiar northern Indian dishes presented attractively and prepared even more enticingly all for a fair price, it is easy to like. One item is indicative of the caliber of the cooking, and accompanies every entrée, the side of rice. The high-quality, long-grained and inherently fragrant and a bit nutty basmati rice at Surya is cooked fairly quickly to an al dente texture with cinnamon and bay leaves and then some saffron, the last giving it streaks of yellow. The resulting rice, grains properly distinct and topped with a few peas, is a perfect pairing to the curries, delightful in its own right, and quite possibly the best Indian-style around. Chicken Vindaloo has been superb. This Goan-originated dish was properly spicy, actually extremely spicy, but more significant was the deep flavor of the reddish-orange-colored sauce with an enjoyable brightness, richness and complexity that makes it tough to pause from – even with the considerable heat – ladling it on the terrific long-grain rice side or scooping it up with the soft, occasionally blistered fresh naan. Washington Corridor
Verandah Progressive Indian – Pan-Indian – Set appropriately among the recently sprung luxury high rises on Kirby, this is a beautiful contemporary sliver of a space serving fairly expensive, artfully presented preparations that range largely along the now-more-familiar Indian restaurant offerings. Samosas are among the starters, many items cooked in the tandoor, curries, biryanis, breads and a “Gourmand Section” with dishes featuring rabbit, duck breast, venison chops, and lobster tails. Dinner only. Upper Kirby District

A beautifully presented dish at Kiran's