MIKE RICCETTI
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MIKE RICCETTI

Mostly food and drink...

...and mostly set in Houston

No need to ever go to Pearland again

5/4/2021

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​I used to enjoy going to Pearland.  That was a while ago, though.  Killen’s Barbecue opened late in 2013 down in Pearland and seemingly immediately became a very popular destination for barbecue lovers throughout the region for its expertly cooked brisket and beef ribs, especially.  The quality of its barbecue was about as good as anything to be found in the state, and it significantly raised the bar for Texas-style smoked meats in the Houston area.  Inspiring other pit masters and restaurateurs, Killen’s was one of the most influential restaurants to open in and around Houston in the past decade.  It provided the spark that has made the barbecue landscape here much better in the ensuing years. 

Now there are terrific barbecue options to be found in Houston proper: The Pit Room, Pinkerton’s, Truth, Feges, Blood Bros., along with Gaitlin’s and Roegel’s.  And, either The Pit Room and Pinkerton’s might serve the best brisket in the area. 

With these choices for Texas-style barbecue, there is really no need for those in Houston to trek to Pearland.

Also, Ronnie Killen opened an upscale steakhouse concept of sorts a few years ago not too far west of the Galleria, Killen’s STQ, and last year, Killen’s on Heights Boulevard near Washington, which has a regionally attuned Southern menu.  The food I’ve picked up from the newest Killen’s has been excellent in two trips – a third will likely be this week as it is now on my regular rotation for weekday lunches.  The orders so far have included a chicken fried steak that is certainly one of the best version in the city, better than what was ever served by the former occupant of Killen’s space, Hickory Hollow, which was known for the dish.   Killen’s on Heights even serves barbecue.  You don’t even have to drive to Pearland to get Killen’s barbecue these days.

​Killen’s

101 Heights (just north of Washington), 77007, (713) 637-4664
ronniekillen.com
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    Author

    Mike Riccetti is a longtime Houston-based food writer and former editor for Zagat, and not incidentally the author of three editions of Houston Dining on the Cheap.

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