MIKE RICCETTI
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MIKE RICCETTI

Mostly food and drink...

...and mostly set in Houston

The Italian steakhouse, Frank Sinatra, and other Italian restaurant peculiarities Found here

8/31/2019

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​Though some restaurants were becoming more Italian during the 1980s, several widespread aspects of the Italian restaurant in America were not to be found in Italy.  This included a small bowl or cruet of olive oil set on the table along with a basket of bread for dipping into the oil.  This seems to have begun sometime in the 1980s.  It might have been one of Pino Luongo’s innovations.  He, the Tuscan-bred and New York-based restaurateur who helped introduce Tuscan cooking to this country with places like Il Cantinori and Coco Pazzo that resonated with both critics and celebrities alike.  Though the concept of dipping raw vegetables into oil, pinzimonio, is found in parts of Italy, the similar use of bread is not, at least the way it is done in this country.   Olive oil for the bread quickly spread and became expected by most diners, even if it was an additional freebie for the owner and a way for customers to waste a lot of decent olive oil.   It became emblematic of Italian restaurants here – as much as soft, overcooked pasta – and was resisted only by those able to adhere more closely to the Italian model.
 
If presented in a bowl or plate, the olive oil was often studded with herbs, garlic and sometimes balsamic vinegar.  The use of the sweet vinegar became another hallmark of American Italian dining.  Balsamic vinegar in its truest, most artisanal form, was nearly unknown outside of its home in and around the city of Modena in Emilia-Romagna until it began to be imported into the U.S. and used at the most discerning restaurants around 1980.   As it took years to make small amounts, it was expensive, but its concentrated flavor went a long way as a condiment.  As the original aged versions gained traction with Americans and the American press, commercial vinegars bearing the name “balsamic vinegar,” tasting vaguely similar and far less pricey, began to be produced.  It was with these that most American diners grew to enjoy, both with bread and more so mixed with salads.
 
Predating both the table presentation of olive oil and the familiarity with this uniquely Italian-esque vinegar was the Italian steakhouse, at least in America.  There are no steakhouses in Italy.  Outside of the Florentines and later other Tuscans, there has been no steak tradition in Italy.  In fact, the bistecca in the famous bistecca alla fiorentina comes from the English “beefsteak” because there was no suitable Italian name for the dish.   “Being American is to eat a lot of beef steak,” as Kurt Vonnegut rightly observed, and Italian-Americans found it both profitable and enjoyable to serve steak.   The first might have been The Palm in Manhattan that opened in the 1920s, even if it did not consciously start out as a steakhouse.   It was later joined, especially after 1990, by numerous others primarily in the northeast and midwest.  These served similar preparations and steaks as the typical grand American steakhouses.  What made them “Italian” was that the menu was filled out with a number of rote Italian-American dishes, and usually the restaurant’s full name included the phrase, “Italian Steakhouse.”
 
Frank Sinatra was a reportedly a big fan of one of the longtime Italian steakhouses, Gene & Georgetti’s in Chicago. Sinatra was reportedly a big fan of countless Italian-themed eateries.  In fact, “Frank Sinatra ate here” might only be rivaled by “George Washington slept here” in the northeast.  According to the dedicated road food warriors, Jane and Michael Stern, who would know better than anyone, “there are countless places between Philly and Boston (not to mention some in Vegas and Palm Springs) where, if you judged by the pictures on the wall, you'd have to say that Frank was the management's best friend.”   A tree of decades-old Italian-American eateries in the Los Angeles area can trace their heritage back to Sinatra beginning with Hollywood’s Villa Capri.   Though Sinatra was, by all regards, a terrific customer known for his extremely generous tipping, he also brought a tremendous amount of star power and glamour.   He was, after all, one of the most famous Americans since the time he burst on the scene in the early 1940s until his death in the late 1990s.  The advertisement of a restaurant’s connection to Sinatra was and continues to be a recognizable feature of the Italian restaurant here, just as it once was with previous Italian-American heroes, Joe DiMaggio and Enrico Caruso.
 
Sinatra’s fixture is more permanent, because Sinatra’s music – and in some sense his persona – has become intertwined with Italian-American food and joyous carousing.  Sinatra might be as much a part of the American Italian restaurant as red sauce.  His songs and those of the other popular Italian-American singers interpreting the Great American Songbook after the Second World War have become a requisite part of the soundtrack of Italian-themed restaurants.  Sinatra was just the best and has been the most played, but he is often joined by Dean Martin, Tony Bennett, Louis Prima, Bobby Darin, Jerry Vale, Jimmy Rosselli, Mario Lanza, Perry Como, Frankie Laine, and Vic Damone as part of the ambiance when out at an Italian restaurant.
 
Though American-bred singers seemed natural complements to the restaurants serving the food, what might be surprising is the disdain that the vast majority of Italians have to Italian food with any American concessions.  Most Italians absolutely cannot stand Italian-American food, or at least they say so.  This seems to stem largely from the fact that Italians have possibly the narrowest palates in the world.  That and their intense local pride fostered by history and geography.  They complain bitterly about the preparations of dish a town over in Italy if it is slightly different than their own.   Of course, they are typically quick to complain about restaurants here.
 
This was adapted from my eBook, From the Antipasto to the Zabaglione: The Story of Italian Restaurants in America.
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Pappas Bros. Steakhouse serves up the best Restaurants Weeks meal ever

8/23/2019

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​I had been meaning to finally have dinner at the downtown location of Pappas Bros. Steakhouse when I saw that it was participating in Houston Restaurant Weeks.  The fact that it featured a steak on that menu made the decision to go even easier.  Not just any steak, but a USDA Prime New York Strip dry-aged in-house, the type of steak that has drawn diners and raves by the score since the Pappas Bros. opened on Westheimer in the mid-1990s. 
 
The dinner last night, did not disappoint.  It was the best New York Strip I’ve had in memory and also the best Houston Restaurant Weeks meal I’ve ever had.  It was an excellent meal, period, and wonderful dining experience, even just sitting in the bar area. 
 
I started with a Caesar Salad, my usual steakhouse starter.  Featuring manageably sized pieces of Romaine lettuce, which I really enjoyed, in a rich, creamy sauce studded with properly crispy croutons made from good-quality bread, this was exactly what I had hoped for to prologue the beef course.  My New York Strip was perfectly cooked medium-rare, as requested.  Tender, juicy but was a slight bit of an exterior crust that exhibited a noticeable hint of the Kosher salt, black pepper and butter finish, the steak tasted like it should, just better.  Deeply flavorful, but without any discernible funk from the dry-aging.  It was terrific.  Well-done mashed potatoes and haricot verts were welcome accompaniments to the steak.  The friend I was dining with and I also split an order of their cheesy au gratin potatoes in the odd chance we might not get enough calories along the way.  Delicious, too.  To finish, I had a Key Lime Pie tartlet made with Graham crackers, toasted pecans, lightly sweetened whipped cream and a few fresh berries.  It also was very enjoyable, the product of a very adept pastry station, if tough to finish after the several large and caloric prefaces. 
 
Those three courses from the Restaurant Weeks menu was just $45, excepting tax and gratuity.  The similar 14-ounce New York Strip on the menu is $51.95.  Though the steak I had might have been a little smaller, maybe the 10-ounce version that is usually served at the bar, the three courses for $7 less is an excellent value, and provides more than enough food for nearly every diner, as each of the three courses is quite generous, in the typical Pappas restaurant manner. Then there is also fresh, top-notch bread on the table with softened butter upon request.
 
The visit confirmed that, to me, Pappas Bros. Steakhouse – boisterous, always loud and usually delightfully indulgent and even excessive – and Georgia James are clearly the best two steakhouse concepts in the city.  Not only is the food excellent, especially the nearly unparalleled steak, but the compendious wine list is the most impressive in the city along with its sibling – and with some values, too, the acidic and tannic Burlotto Nebbiolo di Langhe 2016 for $55 that I had previously encountered at Public Services worked very well with steaks.  The wait staff here, too, is also a cut above among the local steakhouses.  The attentive, friendly and proficient service we had last night stood in stark contrast to the choppy, not-so-professional-for-the-considerable-price service I had fairly recently at Mastro’s, another upscale steakhouse.  The New York Strip and other foods were far better at Pappas Bros., too, as was the overall experience. 

If you are going to do the all-American steakhouse experience, which is always expensive, you can't beat Pappas Bros. Steakhouse in Houston.  During Houston Restaurant Weeks, it is even somewhat of a value, all while benefiting the Houston Food Bank.  Do good while eating very well.
 
Pappas Bros. Steakhouse
1200 McKinney (at San Jacinto), (713) 658-1995
5839 Westheimer (between Chimney Rock and Fountain View), (713) 780-7352
pappasbros.com

The New York Strip is more flavorful, but the filet at Pappas Bros. is about as good as it gets.
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The Original Fish Tacos at Berryhill still satisfy after all these years

8/17/2019

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​It’s not quite fair to call The Original Fish Tacos at Berryhill a guilty pleasure, as these have long been quite good, in my opinion, and Berryhill Baja Grill Cantina – its ungainly full name these days – a commendable, comfortably casual counter service spot for generally inexpensive Mexican food that’s a little different than most local options.  I’ve been indulging in these for years at the location on 11th Street, which I often do after a haircut, as its just down the road from my longtime barber, Doug’s, formerly Doug and Don’s and Don’s before that, the barbershop in Rushmore.  There’s been comfort in the consistent quality and value in each for me.
 
The Original Fish Tacos at Berryhill consist of two or three large pieces of breaded and fried white fish placed in two soft corn tortillas and served with shredded red cabbage, a fair amount of cilantro leaves and a spiked mayonnaise sauce.   The tacos are large.  The fish is always clean-tasting, often arriving at the table piping hot from the deep fryer with the cabbage adding some firm texture to the usually crispy fish and the cilantro and sauce helping with additional complementary flavors.  I always spoon on a lot of the watery tomato-based salsa found at the condiments bar that helps some more, especially its spicy small pieces off jalapeño.  Berryhill used to use catfish but now, from all I can gather from a cashier who seems to be the manager, it is a white fish from the sea that is not tilapia.  It works well, if not as well as the catfish did.  The pieces of fish sometime become mushy a little too readily, mostly courtesy of the mayonnaise-based sauce and the addition of the salsa.  It detracts from the taco, but it’s still an enjoyable, messier dish.
 
I can’t say these tacos are in the same league as what you will find in San Diego or Ensenada, but these have been more enjoyable than the ones I’ve had up the road in Orange County at cheap chain outposts. I find that an order of two Original Fish Tacos makes for an inexpensive and quick lunch.  Two with water with tax and tip comes to $9.64 these days.  A find value that also includes chips and salsa.  The help-yourself chips found with the salsa are store-bought and really not very good even when there are no hints of the occasional staleness.  Though both the chips and are below par, I can’t help but finish a basket helping make for a properly satiating lunch.
 
There are eight Berryhill locations now.  They used to vary widely in quality.  I am not sure these days, as I’ve only been to the 11th Street location in years.  Not as interesting as satisfying as the original location in the Village many years ago, it can still be a decent stop that’s a at least a decent value.
 
Berryhill Baja Grill Cantina
702 E. 11th Street (a few blocks west of Studewood), (713) 225-2252
berryhillbajagrill.com
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Do some good, dine out during Houston Restaurant Weeks

8/6/2019

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​One of the most anticipated, if not the most anticipated, annual area restaurant-related event began the other day on August 1, Houston Restaurant Weeks.  Running through September 2, when diners visit one of the 282 participating restaurant locations and order from the Restaurant Weeks menu that will feature a set multi-course menu with several options, the restaurant will donate $7 during dinnertime and $3 for lunch to the Houston Food Bank.  Lunches are $20 and dinners are $35 or $45, with some optional upcharges at some places.  If you don’t know, the Houston Food Bank is a rather worthwhile local charity, a non-profit organization that collects and distributes food to hunger relief charities, which happens to be the largest food bank in the country. 
 
Helping the community is rather easy, just dine out at one of the restaurants and order from the Restaurant Weeks menu.  It’s not only easy, but enjoyable.  It has resonated with locals: since Cleverley Stone started the event in 2003, it has raised well over $10 million for the Houston Food Bank.  Houston Restaurants Weeks seems to encourage people to visit restaurants, and especially restaurants that are new to them.  In addition to aiding the charity, it has definitely increased traffic for local eateries, both new and familiar.  August was once about the slowest of months for area restaurants.  No longer.  This has helped not only the bottom line for the restaurateurs but also their staffs, who are among the lowest-paid workers.
 
With so many restaurants, there is certainly plenty from which to choose.  The restaurants from Hugo Ortega and Tracy Vaught – Backstreet Café, Caracol, Hugo’s and Xochi – which are known for doing a very good job for Houston Restaurant Weeks, are taking part again.  Some other notables include Amalfi, Etoile, Latin Bites, Pappas Bros. Steakhouse, Potente, Riel, Reef, and Houston’s grand dame, Tony’s.  Do some good and have some fun, visit one of them or one of the many other participating restaurants during this next month.

A delectable dish from one of the participants, Bistro Menil
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The “Italian” Steakhouse

8/5/2019

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​Flying to the Chicago area last weekend, I was looking for a convenient place to meet a friend near O’Hare and ended up at a branch of Harry Caray’s, more properly Harry Caray’s Italian Steakhouse.  I had enjoyed trips to the original location downtown many years ago.  And, this most recent visit worked out well.  I needed some food as I waited, and my order of toasted ravioli, that deep-fried St. Louis treat, was quite tasty.  Crusty ravioli filled with a mixture of four cheeses, and served in a very pleasant, light marinara sauce.  As it turned out, my friend has had very good luck with the place for business meals, and a cousin I saw that weekend had long liked up their pastas.
 
The menu at Harry Caray’s – there are three of these in addition to their other concepts – has long-popular and more current Italian-American and Italian-themed preparations like Eggplant Parmesan, pasta alla Vodka, Shrimp Scampi, fried calamari, and a well-regarded signature Chicken Vesuvio, a Chicago Italian-American classic, along with salads, seafood, and then wet- and dry-aged steaks in filet, strip and ribeye cuts.
 
The Italian steakhouse, at least in America and at least in name, has predated Harry Caray’s use of it in recent years.  There are hardly any steakhouses in Italy, though.  Outside of the Florentines and later other Tuscans, there has been no steak tradition in Italy.  In fact, the bistecca in the famous bistecca alla fiorentina comes from the English “beefsteak” because there was no suitable Italian name for the dish. Similarly, rosbif is the Italian word for roast beef.  I was in Piedmont late last year, a region that is very proud of their beef, and asked a winemaker during long luncheon if there were steaks to be found in Piedmont – which I hadn’t encountered in two trips there – or anywhere else in Italy, in addition those Tuscan steaks.  He said that there might be a steak somewhere in the Veneto, he wasn’t exactly sure where, but that was about it.  There are plenty of steaks to be found here, of course.
 
“Being American is to eat a lot of beef steak,” as Kurt Vonnegut rightly observed, and Italian-Americans found it both profitable and enjoyable to serve steak, as have innumerable other restaurateurs over the years.  The first Italian steakhouse might have been The Palm in Manhattan that opened in the 1920s, even if it did not consciously start out as a steakhouse.   It was later joined, especially after 1990, by numerous others primarily in the Northeast and Midwest.  These served similar preparations and steaks as the typical grand American steakhouses.  What made them “Italian” was simply that the menu was filled out with a number of rote Italian-American dishes, and usually the restaurant’s full name included the phrase, “Italian Steakhouse.”
 
The phrase Italian steakhouse does make some sense in this country, even if there really is very little or no Italian heritage involved.  What it translates to is a menu of aged steaks often from the great slaughterhouses of the Midwest in familiar cuts and preparations alongside a slew of Italian-American dishes.  These have long been two of America’s favorite cuisines, after all, and what’s wrong with that?

Lunch at an actual steakhouse in Italy a few years ago
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    Author

    Mike Riccetti is a longtime Houston-based food writer and former editor for Zagat, and not incidentally the author of three editions of Houston Dining on the Cheap.

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