Houston is not exactly known as a bastion of great French dining, though there is actually some high quality French fare to be found in the city. Beyond food, it might come as a surprise to most locals, but there has actually been an unmistakable French influence on Houston for years mostly through the former patronage of the Menil family. They recruited the architect Philip Johnson to the city to work on their family home and the main quadrangle at the University of St. Thomas not long after the Second World War, and he become the favorite, and most significant, architect working locally, and whose firm alighted the skyline with the Williams Tower in the Galleria, and the Pennzoil Plaza and the (once-named) RepublicBank building downtown among others. The Menil Collection and Rothko Chapel are other significant family legacies. The Menil fortune came from the Schlumberger, which is joined by large operations from the French concerns, TotalEnergies, Techniq and AirLiquide most prominently. With these there are a fair amount of French nationals to enjoy their home cuisine that is done very aptly and attractively here, if not terribly adventurously in Houston.
 
One measure of quality: of the ninety-six Maitres Cuisiniers de France (Master Chefs of France) in North America and the Caribbean – a number that includes Daniel Boulud and Eric Ripert – five are in Houston: David Denis, Frederic Perrier, Jean-Luc Royère, Philippe Schmit, Philippe Verpiand. Denis is at Bistro 555 while Verpiand has Étoile and Brassiere du Parc and of Bistro 555, but the other three are not working in French-themed restaurants. Then there is also the talented Olivier Cieleski, once the executive chef at Tony’s among other noted stops, on the restaurant sidelines. French fare could be even better here, but that seems to be due more to demand than supply.
 
The Best
 
Le Jardinier – The fine-dining star of the latest grand addition to the Museuetm of Fine Arts complex, the Kinder Building, this also succeeds grandly serving fairly ambitious modern French restaurant fare that largely substitutes many non-Gallic influences for the tradition extending from Escoffier through Bocuse. The results are interesting, intelligently composed and artfully constructed while being delectable, most importantly, from the amuse-bouche through dessert. Maybe not cutting-edge – foams are frequent, not entirely au courant while working very well at a meal in the summer, for example – but this is still something different for Houston. The wine list is expansive, heavily French-laden and very food-friendly. From a restaurant group with very similar restaurants in Miami and New York, both of which carries a Michelin star, this place exudes professional competence and in an inviting way that makes a visit a real joy. Plus, the comfortably modern dining room looks out to the Isamu Noguchi-designed Cullen Sculpture Garden. Museum District
 
The Rest of the Best
 
Étoile – For over a decade now, set amidst the faux little village of upscale Uptown Park, this pleasing spot has done a stellar job serving mostly the traditional type of fare that you might expect in a nice French restaurant in much of this country – Moules Marinière, Tartare De Boeuf, Escargot de Bourgogne, Coq au Vin, and Magret De Canard Rôti, roasted duck breast – even drawing a local French clientele. The menu also reaches to Italy for risotto and pasta dishes as many French places do these days. Though the offerings might be described as refined cuisine bourgeoise, you can go Rossini with any bentrée, adding a slab of seared foie gras for $15. No truffles with that, though. To note, lunch can be a fine value with smaller and less pricey portions along with sandwiches and salads. Uptown Park
Bistro 555 – Though this space on Memorial Drive was for many years Bistro Provence and acclaimed chef David Denis and his sommelier brother Sylvain hale from that sun-socked region, the menu here is composed of “classic and contemporary French dishes” and there’s not much distinctly Provençal other than tuna and some stray Niçoise olives. But, the more recognizable preparations, which sound more savory in French – Soupe Gratinée à L'oignon, Bœuf à la Bourguignonneare, Truite Aux Amandes, and Steak Au Poivre – might be a bit lighter and brighter, also apt for our usually subtropical weather. The somewhat succinct all-French list complements the menu of wonderfully composed preparations, and the dozen or so choices by the glass nicely includes a Sauternes to finish. West Houston
Bistro Maison Pucha – This French outpost from Manuel Pucha, the former executive chef at the well-regarded La Table here, and his brothers, veterans of the New York restaurant trade, zoffers a menu of classic French restaurant preparations along with a few items – ceviches, principally – and flavors from their coastal Ecuadoran home.  Like all local French-themed establishments here, the dishes aren’t very recent – steak frites, bouillabaisse, duck a l’orange, coq au vin – but can shine in execution along with attractive presentations. Dishes like the impeccably plump, moist filet of Trout Almondine in brown butter, especially so, and even a straightforward assemblage of top-flight charcuterie and cheese. The wines are sufficient, if not yet terribly interesting, and the bartenders quite adept in their mixology. The setting is quite stylish, contemporary, and welcoming, not to mention busy since the doors opened in late 2017, and the staff noticeably earnest and hard-working. Heights
Artisans – Easily traversed, by car, from the office towers downtown, this features a dramatic and attractive open display kitchen surrounded by about two dozen seats in somewhat of a flattened horseshoe fashion and a fairly concise menu of familiar French fare suited for the locals spiked with seasonal and more personal offerings all usually executed exquisitely, beautifully, and always expensively. Foie gras, duck rillettes, or cavibar can start, then there’s bouillabaisse, steak au poivre plus possibly even pan-seared Gulf redfish served with squid in pasta or red snapper with risotto and sauteed spinach. The $42 three-course lunch special counts as a deal here. In a city of smartly put-together beverage choices, the wine list here is unfortunately just functional. Midtown
Brasserie du Parc – A lower-key, but still white tablecloth, offering from Philippe Verpiand of Étoile that offers an enticing range of largely well-known French dishes both day and night. There might be more of an emphasis on seafood, but there are several steaks; it’s Texas, after all, plus it needs to satisfy those (mostly male) business travelers that might be congregating at the George R. Brown just a short walk away. It’s an airy and approachable place, that sense might be enhanced by the charmingly cheap-looking reproductions of French poster artwork on the walls. Downtown

A suitably artistic dish at Le Jardinier

It seems that there are fewer restaurants than ever serving Greek food in Houston. Well, for many years, at least. The neat, casual Just GRK on the Katy Freeway closed in 2022. Earlier, and little less lamentably, Alexander the Great and Yia Yia Mary’s a couple of years before. I had recommended seven inexpensive Greek restaurants in the last edition of my guidebook Houston Dining on the Cheap way back in 2007. There are just not too many Greek eateries of note across at any price point today. The pandemic seemed to have taken a toll on the small family-run Greek restaurants, maybe more so than most other restaurants here, for some reason.
 
Below are the best Greek restaurants in Houston listed in order of preference.
 
The Best
 
Helen – Offering something different than what is found in the typical Greek restaurant almost anywhere around the country, this is contemporary Greek fare and in a vibrant, sliver of a space tucked in among its neighboring businesses on Rice Boulevard that screams cool bistro. Dips, grilled octopus, whole fish, rack of lamb and more that both look and taste better than at that stereotypical Greek spot. With the wine – it’s a serious program here – it’s all Greek to everyone here, and only Greek, but it will help you learn that Greek wine belongs on the world stage. Rice Village
 
The Rest of the Best
 
Niko Niko’s – Since 1977 Niko Niko’s has been a well-loved, hard-working fixture in the heart of Montrose for satisfying and unpretentious Greek and Gulf Coast favorites. Comfortable and somewhat nice, it is usually crowded, even well outside regular lunch and dinner hours, as it has been for years – outside of the depths of the pandemic. Accurately subtitled, a “Greek & American Café,” the large menu does consist mainly of Greek specialties plus a number of other homey, but well prepared dishes, one of which will certainly satiate about any craving. Montrose, Spring Branch, Downtown (in abbreviated form)
Anonymous Café – Lighter and brighter might be your first impression of this airy little café in the first floor of an older office building just off Kirby. Some familiar Greek and American items are served for breakfast and lunch like souvlaki, salads – The American Greek Salad, of course – sandwiches and a terrific take on spanakopita. There is a different daily Greek special each day, too, like moussaka or pastitsio, with avgolemono to start. The pastry display is a delight, and an indication that this kitchen has some evident skill. And, it is truly a café with both serious coffee and as a venue to spend time for a smattering of students, folks from the nearby neighborhoods, and ex-pat Greeks. Upper Kirby District
Simply Greek – Set in an older small strip center in Spring Branch, this very bare-bones, quite humble spot mostly serves the usual, inexpensive fast-food Greek fare that is better than expected. Tender, moist and flavorful lamb fills a pita that is much better than what comes off any gyro spinner. A fair number of other proteins, some even without tzatziki, can pack a pita in case more than simply Greek is in order. Spring Branch

The Grilled Octopus at Helen - Helen

As you probably know, Guy Fieri’s long-running show focuses on the more humble and affordable restaurants, and which are regarded as local standouts. Each of the Houston restaurants that have been featured in the show over the years were also recommended in the last edition of my Houston Dining on the Cheap guidebook if it had been opened back when it was published in 2007. With one exception. The show has done a really good job with Houston.
 
Here are the local restaurants highlighted in Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives listed alphabetically:
 
Be More Pacific – Filipino – Opened in 2019, I enjoyed my one visit to this readily fun Filipino outpost on Yale Street, not far north from I-10, that offers both some more diversity and quality to the Heights dining landscape that was rather forlorn when I wrote the last of my guidebooks. Heights
 
Café Lili – Middle Eastern – Though I recommended it in Houston Dining on the Cheap and I have quite enjoyed it in the past, it’s somewhat out of the way for me during lunchtime so I have not been in a while. Need to return sooner than later. Galleria Area
 
Café Pita+ - Bosnian – Also touted in Houston Dining on the Cheap, this and its second location have been closed for a few years now, unfortunately. West Houston
 
Cool Runnings – Jamaican – Opened a few years after the last edition of my guidebook, I have yet to visit; it is somewhat of a drive. Alief
 
Cuchara – Mexican – I quite like this place, which offers a different take and vibe on more authentically Mexican food, that of a Mexico City-style bistro. It’s one of the best Mexican restaurants in Houston, I believe. Montrose
 
Fresco Café (now Davanti) – Italian – The concept moved to a nicer setting and location on Weslayan plus a new name. I thought it was one of the top new restaurants to open this past year. It can be an easy and rewarding stop for a pasta or pizza (al taglio) fix. The chef draws raves from Italians I know. Greenway Plaza
 
Irma’s – Tex-Mex – I’ve long thought that this was overrated; a small menu of smaller-sized entrées that are expensive for what they are. It was not enough of a value to for me recommend it after the first edition of my guidebook, which was back in 2002. I wasn’t too impressed again when I visited last a few months ago. Downtown
 
Lankford Grocery – American – Friendly, decidedly old school place that I had recommended in Houston Dining on the Cheap. I had a very enjoyable burger there last week, too. Midtown
 
Kenny and Ziggy’s – Jewish Deli – Recommended in Houston Dining on the Cheap, this has been the hallmark for deli food in town for years, and the best place to get a sandwich of a size that could result in cardiac arrest plus a numerous array of other tasty items that might do the same. Galleria Area
 
Nikos Niko’s – Greek – This Montrose fixture, which has grown in locations, was recommended in Houston Dining on the Cheap. Montrose
 
The Original Marini’s Empanada House – Argentine Empanadas – The only reason I haven’t been in a while is that it is now geographically inconvenient. I raved about it in Houston Dining on the Cheap and brought their empanadas to great effect to at least one of my media appearances when I was publicizing the book. Westchase
 
The Pit Room – Barbecue – This is one of my favorite barbecue joints, and the one I probably visit the most frequently and have been quick to recommend in articles and elsewhere. Montrose
 
Q-Shi BBQ and Sushi – Barbecue / Sushi – Around from 2016 through last year, I never made the drive up to Cypress to check this out before it shuttered. Cypress
 
Red Lion Pub – British – Both recommended in Houston Dining on the Cheap and was a frequent stop to its bar for beers poured in 20-ounce Imperial pint glasses. River Oaks
 
Toasted Coconut – American – I enjoy drinking here.  A fun place. Montrose
 
Travelers Table – Eclectic – Had an enjoyable lunch at this very eclectic, maybe overly eclectic spot on lower Westheimer that seems to have struck a cord with a segment of diners. Montrose
 
Weights + Measures – One of the best restaurants in Midtown that works well for breakfast, lunch and dinner – pizzas are one of the stars – and even as a bakery take-away in concert with the estimable Slow Dough. Midtown

Briskets getting ready at The Pit Room.

Eating a lot of burgers recently, and, on a such beautiful day, I decided to travel to the East End and grab a burger at the outside-only Champ Burger.  It was quite enjoyable and fine value.  I liked it in the past and had recommended it in my Houston Dining on the Cheap guidebooks.  Below is what I wrote about it in 2007.  Not much has changed since then other than the prices and a somewhat expanded menu:

Champ Burger is a tidy oasis in the East End that has been serving more-than-satisfying hamburgers and other easy-to-eat foods since 1963.  Under a large awning, there are usually a number of patrons waiting to place or pickup an order, which are dispensed in brown bags.  Champ’s has a friendly egalitarian atmosphere.  Takeaway is popular with the mostly working class clientele who might not have much time for lunch.  This is aided by the fact that the only seating at Champ Burger is around the side from the counters, outside on concrete tables under large umbrellas.  Even during the hot and humid summer months, there will be folks eating here.  Though there is not much in the way of offerings at Champ Burger, it is still very busy during each lunchtime weekdays. 

With a name like Champ Burger, you can expect that the burgers are popular, and these are the biggest draw.  The menu advertises that they use one-third prime ground chuck for their hamburgers.  These are properly cooked with a crust around the juicy patties, and are available with cheese, bacon, and chili.  Of course, unadorned is quite good, too.  Also popular at Champ Burger is the Texas Size Steak Sandwich, which is basically a hamburger with a patty that is breaded and served like a chicken fried steak.  There are hamburgers, several hot sandwiches, hot dogs, baskets with fried chicken, breaded and deep-fried steak fingers and fish, and a couple salads for the afternoon, and breakfast tacos and breakfast sandwiches for the morning.  For sides, the pre-cut fries are served hot and crispy, but nothing special.  Much better for an additional fifty cents are the thick, deep golden-hued, and very tasty onion rings.  To finish or complement a meal there are also shakes and a hot apple turnover.

Champ Burger
304 Sampson (north of Harrisburg), 77003, (713), 227-7737
champburger.net

For the first time since the onset of the pandemic, continuing on old tradition, I met friends for lunch at Brennan’s during the Christmas break. The lure for us is largely the 25-cent lunchtime martinis, though the often excellent Creole fare filtered though a Houston lens and the upscale setting are certainly close behind that.  
 
Most folks express surprise when I mention this very longstanding Brennan’s tradition of an irresistibly boozy lunch – “The Best Kept Secret in Town!” rightly exclaims the menu – that’s thankfully been unaffected by inflation. From Tuesday through Friday during lunch, for just a quarter you can get a martini – gin or vodka, with olives or a lemon twist – a Cosmo, a melon martini, and more recently something called the Commander's Palace Martini, which sounded a lot like a daiquiri when described to us. You’ve got to purchase an entrée, which shouldn’t be a problem with the tempting menu, and there is a supposed limit three martinis per person. I seem to remember having more than that in past visits. Or did I remember.
 
The martinis are surprisingly good-sized, if not quite full-sized and were still easily tasty enough, even if they arrived at the table this time at room temperature, not cold. And we overlooked the pesky sluggishness of our server for more rapid replenishments.
 
Like at most restaurants these days, staffing issues were apparent. Our young servers and manager were friendly though mostly functional: slow, not very knowledgeable, helpful, nor particularly adept. Nothing outrageously bad, but it was a stark contrast to service at other similarly priced local spots I’ve visited recently: Navy Blue, Uchiko, Tony’s, March, Uchi.
 
But the martinis were just a quarter, after all, and none of us had to rush back to the office. Plus, the food was excellent. There doesn’t seem to be any staffing concerns in the kitchen. In fact, the lunch I had the other day might have been the best one I’ve ever had there and the best meal at Brennan’s since when Danny Trace was the executive chef; he departed for Potente in the spring of 2017.
 
From the enticing aromas of the complementary toasted bread on the table soon after we were seated that I ate too readily, to the lush, fino sherry-drizzled turtle soup that was as delicious as I remembered, that culminated in a fantastic, full entrée, the Gulf Fish Borgne. That day it was mahi mahi, cooked to a nicely crisp exterior with firm, clean-tatsing flesh beneath, all topped noticeable pieces of jumbo lump crab meat, perfectly cooked medium-sized shrimp and fried Gulf oysters, sitting on a bed of Parmigiano and mushroom-laden rice, all with a sauce highlighted with Creole butter. It was both delicate and rich like a restaurant like Brennan’s can do. The cheap martinis, ambiance, and company helped, too.
 
Brennan’s
3300 Smith (between Elgin and the Spur), 77006, (713) 522-9711
brennanshouston.com

These are really quite cute.

A few years ago at a family reunion in the Chicago area, a cousin surprised me saying that she and her husband would like to come down to Houston for a weekend in the future to enjoy the restaurants.  They’ve never been, but I believe that my frequent blathering about the dining scene here piqued their interest. They enjoy wine and good food and frequent and savvy restaurant-goers, longtime patrons of Rick Bayless’s restaurants, for example.
 
This piece stemmed from that. They still haven’t made it here, but I’ve got some helpful suggestions for them, possibly, and any visitors. My tact began with highlighting cuisines that aren’t found in the Chicago area, or not found in much quality, and are done well here. Barbecue, Creole and Cajun, Gulf seafood, Tex-Mex, Vietnamese come quickly to mind. No chicken fried steak, though. There are only so many calories that can be ingested in a weekend, even a long weekend, but below is a list to work from, with the cuisines or meal listed alphabetically. Geared toward nicer spots, for the most part. Barbecue and breakfast tacos, necessarily less so.

Barbecue – As extraordinary as Houston barbecue can be now, I had thought that this might not be an option given the inherent heaviness, but then I realized that if you show some restraint – something I can have a hard time doing, myself – like just having a sandwich or splitting a plate, a visit to a barbecue joint doesn’t have to be a one-meal day. Truth (Washington Corridor), The Pit Room (Montrose), Pinkerton’s (Heights), Blood Bros. (Bellaire), Killen’s (Cypress, Pearland)

Breakfast – If they want breakfast, there are some excellent, casual and fun choices that are geared toward our locale. The Breakfast Klub (Midtown), Goode Co. Taqueria (West University), Cucharita (Montrose), El Tiempo (East End and elsewhere)

Breakfast Tacos – For a quick and even more casual breakfast that can be picked up, and something that isn’t much of a thing at all in Chicago, breakfast tacos can be a piquant and tasty morning start when time is a consideration. Tacos A Go Go (various), Tio Trompo (Washington Corridor), Urbe (Uptown Park), Laredo Taqueria (Washington Corridor, Near North Side), The Taco Stand (Heights)

Brunch – If they desire a brunch day, three of the Hugo Ortega-Tracy Vaught restaurants do a great job with brunch and in different ways then there is the grand Creole brunch at Brennan’s, a high-calorie and necessarily alcohol-laden morning feast. Hugo’s (Montrose), Xochi (Downtown), Brennan’s (Midtown), Backstreet Café (River Oaks)

Cocktails – For folks into cocktails or maybe at least before dinner, several of Bobby Heugel’s and alum’s spots can do the trick terrifically well, led by the trend-setting Anvil that is still going strong in its second decade. Anvil (Montrose), Refuge (Montrose), Julep (Washington Corridor), Better Luck Tomorrow (Heights), Under the Volcano (Rice Village), BCN (for the Spanish gin and tonics, Montrose)

Creole / Cajun – Creole as practiced in New Orleans hasn’t really found roots beyond Louisiana other than here, if with some local concessions that work well. Brennan’s (Midtown), Eunice (Greenway Plaza), Ragin’ Cajun (Greenway Plaza), Lagniappe (Heights)

Gulf Seafood – This can be something a little unique for visitors, and a few spots are excellent with it. Goode Co. Seafood (West University, Memorial), Eugene’s (Montrose), Brennan’s (Midtown)

Italian – Italian doesn’t quickly come to mind with Houston, but I don’t believe that there are any better Italian chefs in Chicago, for example, than Maurizio Ferrarese at the Alba (Uptown Park) in the Hotel Granduca or Giancarlo Ferrara at Amalfi (Briargrove) here.

Italian-American (what most people know as Italian) – The always bustling, fun original Carrabba’s on Kirby and the one the family still runs on Woodway are well-run crowd-pleasers featuring robust flavors with a nod toward our locale and the Carrabba-family roots in Sicily. Upper Kirby, Briargrove

Kolaches – This Czechoslovak breakfast pastry has been a Texas staple, though most versions are rather lacking, to be honest. But Houston is home to the very best purveyor in the entire state, Kolache Shoppe (Greenway Plaza, Heights), which even has a drive-thru at its Heights location.

Mexican – Hugo Ortega is our answer to Rick Bayless, except he is from Mexico. He and Tracy Vaught’s trio of upscale Mexican restaurants are the best Mexican restaurants here and called the best in the state. And the new, more casual Urbe is a great asset to the dining landscape. Hugo’s (Montrose), Xochi (Downtown), Caracol (Galleria Area), Urbe (Uptown Park), Cuchara (Montrose)

Steak – The Great American Steakhouse template doesn’t vary too much across the country even as it has evolved over the years. There is something to be said for top-quality, well-marbled steak seared over a very high heat with fatty sides and a plush atmosphere. Georgia James does something different and is also fantastic while Pappas Bros. excels at the more familiar with a wine list that is a enophile’s dream, well, a well-heeled one. For a more affordable, excellent steak, in the tradition of the pampas, is the family-run Uruguayan Saldivia’s. Georgia James (Montrose), Pappas Bros. Steakhouse (Galleria Area, Downtown), Saldivia’s (Westchase)

Sushi – I think that Manabu Horiuchi at Kata Robata is not only a terrific sushi chef and for Japanese cuisine in general, but he is one of the very best chefs in Houston regardless of cuisine. The folks from Austin with Uchi and Uchiko do a terrific job with a slightly Americanized interpretation. Kata Robata (Upper Kirby), Uchi (Montrose), Uchiko (Galleria Area), Soto (Montrose), MF Sushi (Museum District), Nippon (Montrose)

Tex-Mex – There’s not quality Tex-Mex in most places as here and this is always well liked by relatives visiting. El Tiempo (various), Goode Co. Kitchen & Cantina (Memorial, Heights)

Viet-Cajun (during crawfish season) – A recently developed cuisine that has drawn considerable attention with its leading light an especially fun dining experience, and one that’s quite regional. Crawfish & Noodles (Chinatown, Heights)

Vietnamese – A Houston staple, certainly for me. Long one of my favorite places for Vietnamese food is Jasmine, followed by its sibling Saigon Pagaloc, both along Bellaire Boulevard. A more modern, accessible and fun, and geographically easy location is probably better, unless they want to experience Seven Courses of Beef. That can be fun. Xin Chao (Washington Corridor), Ka Bau (Montrose), Moon Rabbit (Heights), Dinette (Heights), Thien An (Midtown), The Blind Goat (Downtown)

Wine – Houston has some really good wine bars, both in terms of selection and comfort, one can be a fine way to began an evening or be the evening. 13 Celsius (Midtown), Camerata (Montrose), Montrose Cheese & Wine, Roots (Montrose), Vinology (Rice Village)

Other – A few other places to note mostly for their quality, as MAD and BCN are two of the best restaurants in Houston. MAD even has some of the most notable restaurant bathrooms in the country that makes for a fun, and often necessary detour. MAD (River Oaks District), BCN (Montrose), Navy Blue (Rice Village)

If you, they, need to do chicken fried steak, Wild Oats is the best call.

French fries are mostly just an accompaniment, a supporting player, but fries are everywhere, at least where I seem to dine. Often lame, though: limp, under-salted and bland, and quickly becoming barely palatable, just a sop for a bit of ketchup. But there are definitely some places when the fries are almost delicious and worth an order no matter what else might be in store.
 
The best fries are eaten soon after leaving the fryer, having been fried two times from the potatoes sliced at the restaurant resulting in a fry that is a bit firm and retains that outer crispness for a while. French fries are done the best in Belgium, where they were likely invented – the French descriptor because fries were encountered in the Francophone part of Belgium. Made with Bintje potatoes, a tasty Dutch variety well-suited for them, cut fairly thickly, these are fried twice in rendered beef fat rather than oil. Initially frying at a lower heat and then briefly at a higher one right before serving yields crisp exteriors and tender insides, and the beef fat certainly adds to the flavor. With some salt and freshly made mayonnaise, these are absolutely delicious. I learned from Belgian classmates years ago that a good mayonnaise really is the best accessory to fries. Really. Beer seems to be another useful one.
 
Though most fries in Houston are forgettable, there are some very good ones. Here are the best places for fries in Houston listed in order of preference.
 
The Best
 
Better Luck Tomorrow – This top spot for day drinking with half-priced drinks including cocktails – really well-made cocktails – from noon until 5:00 during the week, the fun food here is far from an afterthought. A healthy order of the nicely crisp, large fries are excellent by themselves and possibly even more enjoyable when “hard spiced” or with grated Pecorino and plenty of black pepper. Heights
 
Certainly worth an order
 
Café Brussels – As Belgium provides the gold standard in fries, the city’s one Belgian restaurant does them well. These are excellent; crisp, long-lastingly so. You will probably need to ask for a side of the house-made mayonnaise these days, though. You should. First Ward
Helen Greek – This contemporary Greek bistro serves crisp, excellent fries as a side with gyros and souvlaki – a far cry that you’ll usually find with these – and also the more substantial Smothered Greek Fries with turmeric, a whipped roasted red pepper dip, feta, and oregano. Rice Village
Navy Blue – Served attractively in paper extending past the edges of a fry cone, this upscale new seafooder does all the basics as well as you might hope in the setting, and is a perfect choice with a drink at the bar in the evening. Rice Village
Riel – The very nice, thin fries do duty alone for take-away and also in a version of poutine at the bar with rich brown gravy and melted white cheese. Montrose
 
A fine accompaniment
 
Cultivated – Thin shoestring fries are never the best fries, but can be tasty, as these are on the side for the sandwiches and burger at the small restaurant for the Lancaster Hotel across from the Alley Theatre. Downtown
Lucille’s – Different than most, the fries are a bit puffy here, enjoyably so. Available only during lunch serving also alongside the burger and sandwiches. Museum District
Mapojeong – Nice and thin fries that are noticeably better than most accompaniments to burgers and fries at this stylish Korean barbecue joint. Heights

The way they are supposed to be done - GQ

Everyone loves Italian-American food, to properly translate Neil Simon’s oft-repeated remark. All Americans, at least. Italians, those people from Italy, generally do not at all. And when you are going out for Italian food here, you are usually going out for Italian-American food. Though Italian-American is not Italian in the strictest sense, it might still be the most-loved type of food in America, many years after Simon’s observation. At these restaurants, you’ll get tomato sauce, Alfredo sauce, garlic, spaghetti and meatballs, linguine and clams, chicken parmesan, and, today, interpretations of the inexpensive-to-make pasta dishes from Rome that have swept the world – Carbonara, cacio e pepe, and all'Amatriciana – with Caesar salad and fried calamari among the starters. There will be a lot of sauce and a lot of cheese throughout.  
 
Veal is, or was, the signature preparations in Italian-American restaurants in the northeast and Midwest – and about my favorite thing as a kid – like Carbone’s Veal Parmesan that’s famous, infamous, for its $72 price tag. But veal has never really been a big thing in Houston. Sure, it’s been on menus, but it’s not been part of the local Italian-American experience here, unlike in other cities. And, these days diners seem to order it even less. Because of this, the veal often tastes grainy, like it’s been sitting in the restaurant’s freezer for an extended period. I’ve noticed this far too often at Italian-themed places in recent years, which is quite disappointing.
 
Here are the best Italian-American restaurants in Houston listed by order of preference.
 
The Best
 
Carrabba’s – These two locations, still owned and operated by co-founder, cookbook author and once PBS cooking show host Johnny Carrabba, are exceedingly popular after three decades years by serving big, flavorful dishes in a casually upscale and festive environment. The original Carrabba’s helped define the exuberant Sicilian-rooted Gulf Coast cooking that is one of the well-loved staples of the Houston dining scene. In vibe, it is the almost perfect Italian-American trattoria, if that is such a thing. There are lively salads, hefty pizzas and pastas and robust easy-to-like dishes like crab cakes with a sweet red pepper sauce, Chicken Bryan, a grilled breast of chicken with goat cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, basil and a lemon-butter sauce, and Stuffed Shrimp Mandola featuring a crab dressing. Not only is the original location on Kirby seemingly always packed with an always well-heeled crowd, the bar is still crowded and lively many nights of the week. Upper Kirby, Briargrove
 
Worth a Visit
 
Damian’s – ​This Midtown stalwart set in a stolid stand-alone building has been a well-worn stop for downtown diners since it opened in the early 1980s. The original slew of owners from those popular local Sicilian-American families – the extremely affable Frankie Mandola, Ciro Lampasses, Joe Butera and namesake Damian Mandola – have long exited but Damian’s carries on is satisfying fashion. It does not nearly excite as it did many years ago when Texas Monthly was lauding it as one of the top dining stops in the state, but it remains a fine-dining Houston favorite. The cooking here might be described as an upscale Gulf Coast version of the country’s beloved Southern Italian-American fare. Flavors and portions are generous. In dining rooms made cozy by low-ceilings and lights, you can enjoy specialties like filet mignon grilled and finished with the piquant herbaceous Sicilian ammoghiu sauce, plump veal chops, Shrimp Damian, and Fra Diavolo Linguine, a medley of seafood including lobster and lump crabmeat in a piquant marinara sauce. Midtown
Rosalie's – Houston has historically been tough on out-of-town restaurateurs and hotel dining, but things might have changed, as West Coast-based television chef Chris Cosentino has channeled his Italian-American roots into what has been a popular and adept smallish spot in a refurbished and now surprisingly hip hotel – the C. Baldwin was a setting for the “The Bachelor” airing in early 2022 – at the southwestern edge of downtown. Chef-created Italian-American might be the best description of the offerings here. The crab cannelloni features Sauce Americane, a French concoction featuring cream and lobster shells. Fairly rich and redolent of the sea, it’s quite tasty if not what any Italian-American family (or restaurant) makes. The menu is enticing with other pastas, spot-on sides such as roasted cherry tomatoes with garlic and breadcrumbs, and protein-centered preparations like a spicy Shrimp Fra Diavolo, a hanger steak Pizzaiolo also with peppers and capers, and a milanese with chicken – there’s no veal on the menu. There are pizzas, too. Though the crusts are not nearly flavorful nor soft enough to pull off a successful margherita, but the other toppings might work well. This cab be a fun stop, and it’s in a hotel! Downtown
Louie’s Italian American – This is a contemporary, fun interpretation of long one of the country’s most popular cuisines studded with insight from present-day Italy. There are plenty of familiar items, done a little differently. Fried calamari, meatballs in red sauce, shrimp cocktail, and an old school antipasto plate but with gruyere, too, are some of the starters. Then the pastas, which are nicely crafted here, thin and light, when either stuffed or not. The Piemontese spindly-stranded tajarin made yellowy similar as there with a surfeit of egg yolks in the dough. Heartier fare includes the ostensibly necessary Chicken Parm, redfish with the piccata treatment. and sausage and peppers. A limited, well-chosen selection of wines and an handful of cocktails that are slated to increase in number help add atmosphere to the quaint setting that manages to be both industrial and homey. And it shares a single-story mixed-use building with a few other complementary businesses including the still somewhat funky wine bar How to Survive on Land and Sea. East End
Lulu’s – Comfortable, especially for those who frequent long-standing Armando’s on the other side of the shopping center at the edge of River Oaks, this attractive spot that opened in mid-2021 serves creditable versions of contemporary takes on Italian-American fare spiked with popular dishes from Italy. Misspellings on the menu – guanchale, al’amatriciana, caccio – helps let you know that this is not serving anything like authentic Italian fare, but the approachable preparations are well-oriented to its target market, as are the portions, not so robust, befitting an older clientele. The wine list, unfortunately, is small and poorly chosen, odd for present-day Houston at its prices. Upper Kirby
Piatto – Tucked away just outside the Loop on West Alabama under the glare of the Williams Tower, this inviting family-run spot has been offering Italian-American favorites geared to the locale – plenty of Gulf shrimp preparations along with grilled meats – plus pizzas for about two decades now. Asparagus topped with lump crab meat and a lemony butter sauce is a popular way to start. Sauces for the pastas are mostly red and white, and a pink, tomato cream. You might want to avoid the gloppy, simple stuffed pastas with the Alfredo sauce, though. Chicken takes precedence over veal for the larger items, but you can still get veal scaloppini in a couple of ways. That the breads for the table are noticeably fresh and flavorful and the salads are robust and well done indicate a welcome level of care taken here. Galleria Area

The osso buco at the original Carrabba's

Among the considerable number of precious retailers, there are numerous dining options in the pedestrian-friendly Rice Village proper and more in the blocks nearby. Though now more crowded with out-of-town chain restaurant concepts – and the departure of its heart for decades, The Ginger Man, America’s first modern beer bar – there are still engaging spots for food and drink in and around Rice Village, if a smaller number than might be hoped.
 
Given the wealth that surrounds the Village, maybe it shouldn’t be surprising that there are some excellent wine lists here: Café Rabelais, El Meson and Helen Greek that focus on France, Spain, and Greece, respectively. Then there are Coppa and Gratify, which offer nice prices, too, in stark contrast to their food. Something else a little unexpected: several worthwhile Middle Eastern outlets here – Hamsa and Badolina Bakery, Istanbul Grill, and Pasha – offering tastes of Israel and Turkey. Maybe it’s the 106,000 people employed at the nearby Medical Center, and the few thousand folks at Rice University, that helps explain some of it.
 
To note, some old standbys don’t seem to serve the quality of fare than these once did, and not all of the glittery and pricey newcomers are worthy of a visit, so this list is shorter than it probably should be. 
 
Listed alphabetically.
 
The Best
 
Badolina Bakery – Café / Bakery – Just for breakfast and lunch, well, until 5:00, there are savory items like quiches, focaccias and a few Middle Eastern items like shakshuka in addition to European pastries, plus commendable breads and cakes to go.
Coppa – Italian – An interpretation of Italian food that is not authentic but contemporary and satisfying, nonetheless, well-suited for the neighborhood. Pricey for what it is, though, as all of the former Clark Cooper Concepts restaurants are, you can get a good plate of pasta and a decent pizza in an attractive and often lively setting here.
Hamsa – Middle Eastern – The most stylish place for the cooking of the Levant in Houston now, this builds on the success and popularity of the owners’ excellent Badolina Bakery next door. Serving what it describes as “modern Israeli cuisine,” the food will be largely familiar to most Houston diners, but in a more wide-ranging fashion and plated more attractively. A decent array of wines, too.
Helen Greek – Greek – Contemporary Greek fare in a vibrant, thin space tucked in among its neighboring businesses on Rice Boulevard that screams cool bistro. With the wine, it’s all Greek to everyone here, and only Greek, but it will help you learn that Greek wine belongs on the world stage.
Istanbul Grill – Turkish – Interesting, well-prepared Turkish food in a pleasant, informal setting, often lively atmosphere, and noticeably friendly and eager service. Many of their traditional Anatolian items are baked in a brick oven that is evident in the somewhat open kitchen, including the distinctive Turkish pizzas that can provide a filling meal for $12-$17. The kabob platters are a great value here, easily worth the $16.50 tariff for the beef and lamb doner kabob and $18 for the lash shish kabob. The portions are generous and served with a large amount of moist rice and grilled tomatoes and bell peppers. Fresh and warm house-made thin pide bread nicely complements every table. Beer and wine, too. 
Lees Den – American – Even with a limited menu and even more limited opening times, this restaurant-within-a-restaurant can be a quirky, tuned-in spot for dinner or just shareable small plates and wine. Thursday through Saturday from 4:00 to 10:00 and reservations are necessary.
Navy Blue – Seafood – The most impressive restaurant to open in 2022, both for food and design, and easily the best one in the neighborhood, the menu is actually quite approachable. Not much decipherable necessary. It ranges from oysters and clams (and caviar) to start with crab cakes, a mussel bisque en croute, fresh pasta preparations and fish. There is a swordfish steak served in a green peppercorn sauce, and an entire Dover sole is fileted tableside. With that and the lobster, you’ve got options; almondine, Oscar and Provençal for the former. A French accent is found in other items, too, a good thing, plus there are a couple of nods to our area with a blackened red snapper and a different-tasting take on seafood gumbo. This is a must-visit for seafood lovers, at least those with some means.
Pasha – Turkish – A homey, somewhat dowdy, option like Istanbul Grill, but homier, serving traditional Turkish food that might appeal to fans of Middle Eastern cooking as it does for Turkish ex-pats. On University across from the Rice campus.
 
Here a couple of restaurants that I can’t recommend for the food these days, but wine aficionados might want to visit:
 
El Meson – Cuban / Spanish / Tex-Mex – One of the best wine lists in the city is to found at this casual long-timer on University Boulevard in the Rice Village serving Cuban, Spanish and Tex-Mex fare. There is diversity on the wine menu, too, but the big heart is Spain with enticements from Vega Sicilia in some breadth and depth, La Alta Rioja and Lopez de Heredia and many others, all nicely priced. Excellent by-the-glass program that can be had by quarter-liter carafes, also, filled with neat stuff from Spain like Muga’s Rioja rosé, a Cabernet Sauvignon from Torres in Penedes, plus even a Finger Lakes Riesling.
Café Rabelais – French – This humble, quaint and a bit kitschy French spot is a paradise from lovers of the wines from France in much of its glory. Seemingly all Gaul is represented here, Jura, Savoie, Rhône, Alsace, and Corsica along with Burgundy, Bordeaux and Champagne, with those more interesting than elsewhere if not the grandest of labels. There are more big bottles here, too, not just magnums but also 3-liters and up. Nicely, there are a number of bottles under $30.  

A doner (gyro) sandwich at Istanbul Grill