Houston is not exactly known as a bastion of great French dining, though there is actually some high quality French fare to be found in the city. Beyond food, it might come as a surprise to most locals, but there has actually been an unmistakable French influence on Houston for years mostly through the former patronage of the Menil family. They recruited the architect Philip Johnson to the city to work on their family home and the main quadrangle at the University of St. Thomas not long after the Second World War, and he become the favorite, and most significant, architect working locally, and whose firm alighted the skyline with the Williams Tower in the Galleria, and the Pennzoil Plaza and the (once-named) RepublicBank building downtown among others. The Menil Collection and Rothko Chapel are other significant family legacies. The Menil fortune came from the Schlumberger, which is joined by large operations from the French concerns, TotalEnergies, Techniq and AirLiquide most prominently. With these there are a fair amount of French nationals to enjoy their home cuisine that is done very aptly and attractively here, if not terribly adventurously in Houston.
One measure of quality: of the ninety-six Maitres Cuisiniers de France (Master Chefs of France) in North America and the Caribbean – a number that includes Daniel Boulud and Eric Ripert – five are in Houston: David Denis, Frederic Perrier, Jean-Luc Royère, Philippe Schmit, Philippe Verpiand. Denis is at Bistro 555 while Verpiand has Étoile and Brassiere du Parc and of Bistro 555, but the other three are not working in French-themed restaurants. Then there is also the talented Olivier Cieleski, once the executive chef at Tony’s among other noted stops, on the restaurant sidelines. French fare could be even better here, but that seems to be due more to demand than supply.
The Best
Le Jardinier – The fine-dining star of the latest grand addition to the Museuetm of Fine Arts complex, the Kinder Building, this also succeeds grandly serving fairly ambitious modern French restaurant fare that largely substitutes many non-Gallic influences for the tradition extending from Escoffier through Bocuse. The results are interesting, intelligently composed and artfully constructed while being delectable, most importantly, from the amuse-bouche through dessert. Maybe not cutting-edge – foams are frequent, not entirely au courant while working very well at a meal in the summer, for example – but this is still something different for Houston. The wine list is expansive, heavily French-laden and very food-friendly. From a restaurant group with very similar restaurants in Miami and New York, both of which carries a Michelin star, this place exudes professional competence and in an inviting way that makes a visit a real joy. Plus, the comfortably modern dining room looks out to the Isamu Noguchi-designed Cullen Sculpture Garden. Museum District
The Rest of the Best
Étoile – For over a decade now, set amidst the faux little village of upscale Uptown Park, this pleasing spot has done a stellar job serving mostly the traditional type of fare that you might expect in a nice French restaurant in much of this country – Moules Marinière, Tartare De Boeuf, Escargot de Bourgogne, Coq au Vin, and Magret De Canard Rôti, roasted duck breast – even drawing a local French clientele. The menu also reaches to Italy for risotto and pasta dishes as many French places do these days. Though the offerings might be described as refined cuisine bourgeoise, you can go Rossini with any bentrée, adding a slab of seared foie gras for $15. No truffles with that, though. To note, lunch can be a fine value with smaller and less pricey portions along with sandwiches and salads. Uptown Park
Bistro 555 – Though this space on Memorial Drive was for many years Bistro Provence and acclaimed chef David Denis and his sommelier brother Sylvain hale from that sun-socked region, the menu here is composed of “classic and contemporary French dishes” and there’s not much distinctly Provençal other than tuna and some stray Niçoise olives. But, the more recognizable preparations, which sound more savory in French – Soupe Gratinée à L'oignon, Bœuf à la Bourguignonneare, Truite Aux Amandes, and Steak Au Poivre – might be a bit lighter and brighter, also apt for our usually subtropical weather. The somewhat succinct all-French list complements the menu of wonderfully composed preparations, and the dozen or so choices by the glass nicely includes a Sauternes to finish. West Houston
Bistro Maison Pucha – This French outpost from Manuel Pucha, the former executive chef at the well-regarded La Table here, and his brothers, veterans of the New York restaurant trade, zoffers a menu of classic French restaurant preparations along with a few items – ceviches, principally – and flavors from their coastal Ecuadoran home. Like all local French-themed establishments here, the dishes aren’t very recent – steak frites, bouillabaisse, duck a l’orange, coq au vin – but can shine in execution along with attractive presentations. Dishes like the impeccably plump, moist filet of Trout Almondine in brown butter, especially so, and even a straightforward assemblage of top-flight charcuterie and cheese. The wines are sufficient, if not yet terribly interesting, and the bartenders quite adept in their mixology. The setting is quite stylish, contemporary, and welcoming, not to mention busy since the doors opened in late 2017, and the staff noticeably earnest and hard-working. Heights
Artisans – Easily traversed, by car, from the office towers downtown, this features a dramatic and attractive open display kitchen surrounded by about two dozen seats in somewhat of a flattened horseshoe fashion and a fairly concise menu of familiar French fare suited for the locals spiked with seasonal and more personal offerings all usually executed exquisitely, beautifully, and always expensively. Foie gras, duck rillettes, or cavibar can start, then there’s bouillabaisse, steak au poivre plus possibly even pan-seared Gulf redfish served with squid in pasta or red snapper with risotto and sauteed spinach. The $42 three-course lunch special counts as a deal here. In a city of smartly put-together beverage choices, the wine list here is unfortunately just functional. Midtown
Brasserie du Parc – A lower-key, but still white tablecloth, offering from Philippe Verpiand of Étoile that offers an enticing range of largely well-known French dishes both day and night. There might be more of an emphasis on seafood, but there are several steaks; it’s Texas, after all, plus it needs to satisfy those (mostly male) business travelers that might be congregating at the George R. Brown just a short walk away. It’s an airy and approachable place, that sense might be enhanced by the charmingly cheap-looking reproductions of French poster artwork on the walls. Downtown
A suitably artistic dish at Le Jardinier
One measure of quality: of the ninety-six Maitres Cuisiniers de France (Master Chefs of France) in North America and the Caribbean – a number that includes Daniel Boulud and Eric Ripert – five are in Houston: David Denis, Frederic Perrier, Jean-Luc Royère, Philippe Schmit, Philippe Verpiand. Denis is at Bistro 555 while Verpiand has Étoile and Brassiere du Parc and of Bistro 555, but the other three are not working in French-themed restaurants. Then there is also the talented Olivier Cieleski, once the executive chef at Tony’s among other noted stops, on the restaurant sidelines. French fare could be even better here, but that seems to be due more to demand than supply.
The Best
Le Jardinier – The fine-dining star of the latest grand addition to the Museuetm of Fine Arts complex, the Kinder Building, this also succeeds grandly serving fairly ambitious modern French restaurant fare that largely substitutes many non-Gallic influences for the tradition extending from Escoffier through Bocuse. The results are interesting, intelligently composed and artfully constructed while being delectable, most importantly, from the amuse-bouche through dessert. Maybe not cutting-edge – foams are frequent, not entirely au courant while working very well at a meal in the summer, for example – but this is still something different for Houston. The wine list is expansive, heavily French-laden and very food-friendly. From a restaurant group with very similar restaurants in Miami and New York, both of which carries a Michelin star, this place exudes professional competence and in an inviting way that makes a visit a real joy. Plus, the comfortably modern dining room looks out to the Isamu Noguchi-designed Cullen Sculpture Garden. Museum District
The Rest of the Best
Étoile – For over a decade now, set amidst the faux little village of upscale Uptown Park, this pleasing spot has done a stellar job serving mostly the traditional type of fare that you might expect in a nice French restaurant in much of this country – Moules Marinière, Tartare De Boeuf, Escargot de Bourgogne, Coq au Vin, and Magret De Canard Rôti, roasted duck breast – even drawing a local French clientele. The menu also reaches to Italy for risotto and pasta dishes as many French places do these days. Though the offerings might be described as refined cuisine bourgeoise, you can go Rossini with any bentrée, adding a slab of seared foie gras for $15. No truffles with that, though. To note, lunch can be a fine value with smaller and less pricey portions along with sandwiches and salads. Uptown Park
Bistro 555 – Though this space on Memorial Drive was for many years Bistro Provence and acclaimed chef David Denis and his sommelier brother Sylvain hale from that sun-socked region, the menu here is composed of “classic and contemporary French dishes” and there’s not much distinctly Provençal other than tuna and some stray Niçoise olives. But, the more recognizable preparations, which sound more savory in French – Soupe Gratinée à L'oignon, Bœuf à la Bourguignonneare, Truite Aux Amandes, and Steak Au Poivre – might be a bit lighter and brighter, also apt for our usually subtropical weather. The somewhat succinct all-French list complements the menu of wonderfully composed preparations, and the dozen or so choices by the glass nicely includes a Sauternes to finish. West Houston
Bistro Maison Pucha – This French outpost from Manuel Pucha, the former executive chef at the well-regarded La Table here, and his brothers, veterans of the New York restaurant trade, zoffers a menu of classic French restaurant preparations along with a few items – ceviches, principally – and flavors from their coastal Ecuadoran home. Like all local French-themed establishments here, the dishes aren’t very recent – steak frites, bouillabaisse, duck a l’orange, coq au vin – but can shine in execution along with attractive presentations. Dishes like the impeccably plump, moist filet of Trout Almondine in brown butter, especially so, and even a straightforward assemblage of top-flight charcuterie and cheese. The wines are sufficient, if not yet terribly interesting, and the bartenders quite adept in their mixology. The setting is quite stylish, contemporary, and welcoming, not to mention busy since the doors opened in late 2017, and the staff noticeably earnest and hard-working. Heights
Artisans – Easily traversed, by car, from the office towers downtown, this features a dramatic and attractive open display kitchen surrounded by about two dozen seats in somewhat of a flattened horseshoe fashion and a fairly concise menu of familiar French fare suited for the locals spiked with seasonal and more personal offerings all usually executed exquisitely, beautifully, and always expensively. Foie gras, duck rillettes, or cavibar can start, then there’s bouillabaisse, steak au poivre plus possibly even pan-seared Gulf redfish served with squid in pasta or red snapper with risotto and sauteed spinach. The $42 three-course lunch special counts as a deal here. In a city of smartly put-together beverage choices, the wine list here is unfortunately just functional. Midtown
Brasserie du Parc – A lower-key, but still white tablecloth, offering from Philippe Verpiand of Étoile that offers an enticing range of largely well-known French dishes both day and night. There might be more of an emphasis on seafood, but there are several steaks; it’s Texas, after all, plus it needs to satisfy those (mostly male) business travelers that might be congregating at the George R. Brown just a short walk away. It’s an airy and approachable place, that sense might be enhanced by the charmingly cheap-looking reproductions of French poster artwork on the walls. Downtown
A suitably artistic dish at Le Jardinier
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