MIKE RICCETTI
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MIKE RICCETTI

Mostly food and drink...

...and mostly set in Houston

This Hobgoblin can be a detour to the foolish consistency of overly hoppy ales

5/16/2017

1 Comment

 
​The other day I saw my friend Mel who reminded of one his favorite beers when he lived in the London area a few years ago, Hobgoblin, which also is available in town.  Where once, in the early days of the beer bar, British beers were a common sight, these have had a tough time in recent years gaining traction among the newly minted beer lovers, who tend to go for brews with huge hop profiles featuring the citrusy and resin-y notes from the bold Cascade and Liberty hops and a fair amount of alcohol.
 
British beers, top-fermenting ales like most of the hoppy domestic craft beers, are different from those.  When done well, these are typically subtle with a mild but interesting level of hop bitterness, and quite flavorful and balanced with a nice interplay of hops and malt along with a touch of fruitiness, plus a usually modest amount of alcohol, from 4.5% to 5.5% alcohol by volume.  This comparative subtlety – and considerable nuance for fresh versions of the best ones – has worked against the British beers in the American market with a large percentage of customers demanding more aggressive flavors. There is also the fact that the beers are typically tastier and certainly more interesting when served from unpasteurized casks, i.e. real ale, as these often are in pubs in England, which necessarily do not find its way to this country.
 
But, these British imports can be good beers to sample for a change, or even enjoy regularly, including or especially Hobgoblin.  From the brewery that can explain its product in more flowery prose (that is still pretty accurate, too, I’ve found):
 
“Hobgoblin is strong in roasted malt with a moderate hoppy bitterness and slight fruity character that lasts through to the end. The ruby red coloured Hobgoblin is full-bodied and has a delicious chocolate toffee malt flavour balanced with a rounded moderate bitterness and an overall fruity character.
 
ABV: 5.2% in bottle & can, 4.5% in cask [which you won’t find around here]
Bottle: 500ml
Hops: Fuggles and Styrians
Malts: Pale, Crystal and Chocolate”
 
Hobgoblin is available at Spec’s, where a four-pack costs $10.52.
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1 Comment
Mel Abueg
5/18/2017 11:01:31 am

Thanks for the name drop, Mike. Really like the short articulate review. If trying other British beers you see on the market shelf, check out beers from brewers like Fuller, Badger, Youngs, Belhaven. These beers range from bitter to stout to brown and golden ales.

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    Mike Riccetti is a longtime Houston-based food writer and former editor for Zagat, and not incidentally the author of three editions of Houston Dining on the Cheap.

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