Though dining in Houston is more expensive than ever, especially inside the Loop where rents and property taxes have increased along with the increased population and business density in recent years, there are still some very good dining values to be found. The best values don’t mean the cheapest joints, but are those that provide the best food for a fair price, while often times cheap is just cheap.
Aladdin – Picking up a tray and gazing across the partition into an expanse of enticing, mostly vegetarian preparations – roughly 30 items most lunchtimes well beyond the two types of creamy and delectable hummus and baba ganoush – is just a preface to an enjoyable and very affordable meal, as the dishes often taste even better than they look. A well-cooked meat like chicken shawarma, lamb gyro or one of the day’s stews, comes with three sides on filling platter for just $12.99 and usually a dollar cheaper during lunch. Not only the best value Middle Eastern restaurant, Aladdin is also one of the best Middle Eastern restaurants in Houston (at least those without One Fifth in the name). 912 Westheimer (at Montrose), 77006, (713) 942-2321
Café TH – Set in a humble, tiny strip center in EaDo, the neighborhood has changed into a destination in the dozen years since Café TH has been around. The restaurant has grown, too, but continues to serve well-made and flavorful, familiar Vietnamese fare and a little more with some personality and noticeable friendliness. And along with prices that are more than reasonable for the quality of the fare. The inexpensive banh mi – a large is $4 for lunch and $5 at dinnertime – can be considered among the best in town. There is no alcohol served, but BYOB is welcome and the corkage fee is just $5, helping make for an even more enjoyable dinner, or even lunch. 2108 Pease (between St. Emmanuel and Hutchins) 77003, (713) 225-4766
Giacomo’s – This comfortable and eminently enjoyable River Oaks spot is a casual Italian restaurant done right, or an appealing neighborhood restaurant of any stripe done right. The well-executed fare is vibrant, light on its feet, and properly evoking Italy, often with dishes inspired from proprietor Lynette Hawkins’s days growing up in Rome and Tuscany. There are not too many items over $20 and there are plenty of preparations that are meant to share. And, its list of nearly all-Italian wines – interesting, well-selected and very affordable – is the best value wine list in the city, and one of the best places in which to indulge. It’s tough to leave here without a smile on your face. 3215 Westheimer (at Bammel Lane), 77098, (713) 522-1934
Istanbul Grill – Essentially next door to The Ginger Man, this is yet another reason to brave the traffic and parking travails in the Village with its interesting, well-prepared Turkish food in a pleasant, informal setting, often lively atmosphere, and noticeably friendly and eager service. Many of their traditional Turkish items are baked in a traditional brick oven that is evident in the somewhat open kitchen, including the distinctive Turkish pizzas that can provide a filling meal for $10-$13. The kabob platters are a great value here, easily worth the $12.90 tariff for the beef and lamb doner kabob and $14.90 for the lash shish kabob. The portions are generous and served with a large amount of moist rice and grilled tomatoes and bell peppers. Warm, house-made pide bread nicely complements every table that didn’t order a sandwich. And these sandwiches are fine values, running from $7.50 to $8.50 in eight different decent-sized versions, with meat or falafel between two pieces of the pide. 5613 Morningside (just north of University), 77005, (713) 526-2800
La Guadalupana – Though not much to look at, and really not much at all in terms of size, La Guadalupana Bakery & Café on Dunlavy is nonetheless an excellent neighborhood place for a pleasing Mexican meal, or to grab some attractive and scrumptious pastries that are well beyond the typical local panaderia and some coffee to go with them. The dumpy and nearly always messy little dining room has become more crowded in the past few years as the the increasing number of nearby residents have discovered the considerable charms of the inexpensive breakfast and lunch spot. These include lighter-than-typical enchiladas verdes or poblano enchiladas – with a proprietor from Puebla, the mole poblano are worth ordering – or the terrific stewed pork slathered in a verdant spicy salsa, asado de puerco. For the mornings or weekends, their breakfast tacos are among the best in the area. 2100 Dunlavy (between Fairview and West Gray) 77019, (713) 522-2301
Laredo Taqueria – The lines running out the door of this air conditioned taco stand on Washington Avenue from about 11AM to 1PM and often beyond, are a testament to its popularity which derives in large part because of healthy-sized tacos on fresh flour tortillas that are just $2.50 after another price increase. Three is enough for most, and four for a gluttonous meal. Never mind the occasional piece of cartilage or gristle, as these are never enough to ruin a taco. The locations on the near north side are more consistent, especially the one on Patton, but this location is far more convenient for most. 915 Snover (on Washington east of Shepherd), 77007, (713) 861-7279; 311 Patton (at Fulton), 77009, (713) 695-0504; 115 Cavalcade (just east of I-45), 77009, (713) 213-9087
Pappa Geno’s – Easily the best of the local cheesesteak options, including an outpost of Tony Luke’s, regarded by some as the best purveyor in the City of Brotherly Love. The sandwiches at Pappa Geno’s, a small local chain, are large and feature fresh, soft rolls; good bread a necessity for a good sandwich, after all. The thinly sliced seasoned beef is tender and flavorful and well complemented by the plentiful melted provolone and nearly caramelized onions that come with it in their basic Pappa Geno’s Steak & Cheese sandwich. The ingredients might not have the provenance of those on many upscale restaurants here, but they are more than good enough and work wonderfully together. A cheesesteak sandwich here is a nearly glorious, very messy and caloric indulgence that is far from artful in appearance or construction but tastes better than most of the much fancier sandwiches around, not just its cheesesteak competitors. In all, Pappa Geno’s has seven versions of the Philly cheesesteak sandwich plus five others with the less flavorful chicken. 515 Westheimer (between Taft and Montrose), 77006, (281) 501-3664; 1801 Ella (at TC Jester), 77008, (713) 863-1222
Pepper Twins – Now a mini-chain with a half-dozen locations serving authentic Sichuan cooking, which is seemingly China’s favorite regional cuisine, and a favorite of Houston diners in recent years. The W. Gray and Kirby spots are the best locations and feature better ingredients than the typical local Chinese eatery, including many organic; the chicken is antibiotic-free and humanely raised from Springer Mountain Farms, the pork is from heritage Berkshire stock. This makes a discernible difference in the dishes. There are even lamb preparations among the nearly fifty items, many feature chiles or Sichuan peppercorns, the latter of which are used judiciously. Service here is Chinese style: the dishes come to the table with no fuss and nearly everything is meant to be shared. Popular since its opening, the dining rooms are often filled with Chinese nationals and those who just enjoy top-notch Sichuan fare for reasonable prices. 1915 W Gray (just west of Dunlavy), 77019, (346) 204-5644; 3915 Kirby (just off the Southwest Freeway feeder), 77098, (346) 444-6493; 315 Fairview (just west of Taft), 77006, (832) 649-7175
Thien An – The familiar local Vietnamese menu including spring and fried egg rolls, banh mi, rice plates, vermicelli bowls, and pho is provided here. It’s just done noticeably better than most other places, and not just budget options. The banh mi are one highlight, especially for the local favorite, the char-grilled pork (all the way to $3.75 now), since the restaurant is more generous than most with the pork, which is nicely cooked, tender and richly flavorful, nestled along with the expected fresh, texture-providing accompaniments in a local-standard short Vietnamese baguette that is properly crusty and airy. The no-nonsense setting is usually deservedly packed during the lunchtime hours and provides an appropriate place for a tasty and cheap meal. 2611 San Jacinto (just south of McGowen), 77004, (713) 522-7007
Uberrito – The former Mission Burritos is down to just one location inside the loop, but their build-it-yourself burritos on giant 13” tortillas featuring a choice among now eight proteins or vegetables as a centerpiece are also much tastier than the similar competitors as are the “Ten Tasty Tacos,” which really are quite tasty, too. A bit of the creamy Serrano Ranch salsa seems to help with most burritos and tacos. The burritos are still large here, though maybe not as protein-packed as the in past, which is probably a good thing for most. These are still cheap, too, starting at under $8, and even cheaper on Mondays when the chicken burritos are just $5. They also serve burrito bowls and salads, too, so your more calorically conscious co-workers can also dine here without too much fret. 1609 Durham (just south of I-10), 77007, (713) 426-6634
The Döner or Gyro Sandwich at Istanbul Grill today
Aladdin – Picking up a tray and gazing across the partition into an expanse of enticing, mostly vegetarian preparations – roughly 30 items most lunchtimes well beyond the two types of creamy and delectable hummus and baba ganoush – is just a preface to an enjoyable and very affordable meal, as the dishes often taste even better than they look. A well-cooked meat like chicken shawarma, lamb gyro or one of the day’s stews, comes with three sides on filling platter for just $12.99 and usually a dollar cheaper during lunch. Not only the best value Middle Eastern restaurant, Aladdin is also one of the best Middle Eastern restaurants in Houston (at least those without One Fifth in the name). 912 Westheimer (at Montrose), 77006, (713) 942-2321
Café TH – Set in a humble, tiny strip center in EaDo, the neighborhood has changed into a destination in the dozen years since Café TH has been around. The restaurant has grown, too, but continues to serve well-made and flavorful, familiar Vietnamese fare and a little more with some personality and noticeable friendliness. And along with prices that are more than reasonable for the quality of the fare. The inexpensive banh mi – a large is $4 for lunch and $5 at dinnertime – can be considered among the best in town. There is no alcohol served, but BYOB is welcome and the corkage fee is just $5, helping make for an even more enjoyable dinner, or even lunch. 2108 Pease (between St. Emmanuel and Hutchins) 77003, (713) 225-4766
Giacomo’s – This comfortable and eminently enjoyable River Oaks spot is a casual Italian restaurant done right, or an appealing neighborhood restaurant of any stripe done right. The well-executed fare is vibrant, light on its feet, and properly evoking Italy, often with dishes inspired from proprietor Lynette Hawkins’s days growing up in Rome and Tuscany. There are not too many items over $20 and there are plenty of preparations that are meant to share. And, its list of nearly all-Italian wines – interesting, well-selected and very affordable – is the best value wine list in the city, and one of the best places in which to indulge. It’s tough to leave here without a smile on your face. 3215 Westheimer (at Bammel Lane), 77098, (713) 522-1934
Istanbul Grill – Essentially next door to The Ginger Man, this is yet another reason to brave the traffic and parking travails in the Village with its interesting, well-prepared Turkish food in a pleasant, informal setting, often lively atmosphere, and noticeably friendly and eager service. Many of their traditional Turkish items are baked in a traditional brick oven that is evident in the somewhat open kitchen, including the distinctive Turkish pizzas that can provide a filling meal for $10-$13. The kabob platters are a great value here, easily worth the $12.90 tariff for the beef and lamb doner kabob and $14.90 for the lash shish kabob. The portions are generous and served with a large amount of moist rice and grilled tomatoes and bell peppers. Warm, house-made pide bread nicely complements every table that didn’t order a sandwich. And these sandwiches are fine values, running from $7.50 to $8.50 in eight different decent-sized versions, with meat or falafel between two pieces of the pide. 5613 Morningside (just north of University), 77005, (713) 526-2800
La Guadalupana – Though not much to look at, and really not much at all in terms of size, La Guadalupana Bakery & Café on Dunlavy is nonetheless an excellent neighborhood place for a pleasing Mexican meal, or to grab some attractive and scrumptious pastries that are well beyond the typical local panaderia and some coffee to go with them. The dumpy and nearly always messy little dining room has become more crowded in the past few years as the the increasing number of nearby residents have discovered the considerable charms of the inexpensive breakfast and lunch spot. These include lighter-than-typical enchiladas verdes or poblano enchiladas – with a proprietor from Puebla, the mole poblano are worth ordering – or the terrific stewed pork slathered in a verdant spicy salsa, asado de puerco. For the mornings or weekends, their breakfast tacos are among the best in the area. 2100 Dunlavy (between Fairview and West Gray) 77019, (713) 522-2301
Laredo Taqueria – The lines running out the door of this air conditioned taco stand on Washington Avenue from about 11AM to 1PM and often beyond, are a testament to its popularity which derives in large part because of healthy-sized tacos on fresh flour tortillas that are just $2.50 after another price increase. Three is enough for most, and four for a gluttonous meal. Never mind the occasional piece of cartilage or gristle, as these are never enough to ruin a taco. The locations on the near north side are more consistent, especially the one on Patton, but this location is far more convenient for most. 915 Snover (on Washington east of Shepherd), 77007, (713) 861-7279; 311 Patton (at Fulton), 77009, (713) 695-0504; 115 Cavalcade (just east of I-45), 77009, (713) 213-9087
Pappa Geno’s – Easily the best of the local cheesesteak options, including an outpost of Tony Luke’s, regarded by some as the best purveyor in the City of Brotherly Love. The sandwiches at Pappa Geno’s, a small local chain, are large and feature fresh, soft rolls; good bread a necessity for a good sandwich, after all. The thinly sliced seasoned beef is tender and flavorful and well complemented by the plentiful melted provolone and nearly caramelized onions that come with it in their basic Pappa Geno’s Steak & Cheese sandwich. The ingredients might not have the provenance of those on many upscale restaurants here, but they are more than good enough and work wonderfully together. A cheesesteak sandwich here is a nearly glorious, very messy and caloric indulgence that is far from artful in appearance or construction but tastes better than most of the much fancier sandwiches around, not just its cheesesteak competitors. In all, Pappa Geno’s has seven versions of the Philly cheesesteak sandwich plus five others with the less flavorful chicken. 515 Westheimer (between Taft and Montrose), 77006, (281) 501-3664; 1801 Ella (at TC Jester), 77008, (713) 863-1222
Pepper Twins – Now a mini-chain with a half-dozen locations serving authentic Sichuan cooking, which is seemingly China’s favorite regional cuisine, and a favorite of Houston diners in recent years. The W. Gray and Kirby spots are the best locations and feature better ingredients than the typical local Chinese eatery, including many organic; the chicken is antibiotic-free and humanely raised from Springer Mountain Farms, the pork is from heritage Berkshire stock. This makes a discernible difference in the dishes. There are even lamb preparations among the nearly fifty items, many feature chiles or Sichuan peppercorns, the latter of which are used judiciously. Service here is Chinese style: the dishes come to the table with no fuss and nearly everything is meant to be shared. Popular since its opening, the dining rooms are often filled with Chinese nationals and those who just enjoy top-notch Sichuan fare for reasonable prices. 1915 W Gray (just west of Dunlavy), 77019, (346) 204-5644; 3915 Kirby (just off the Southwest Freeway feeder), 77098, (346) 444-6493; 315 Fairview (just west of Taft), 77006, (832) 649-7175
Thien An – The familiar local Vietnamese menu including spring and fried egg rolls, banh mi, rice plates, vermicelli bowls, and pho is provided here. It’s just done noticeably better than most other places, and not just budget options. The banh mi are one highlight, especially for the local favorite, the char-grilled pork (all the way to $3.75 now), since the restaurant is more generous than most with the pork, which is nicely cooked, tender and richly flavorful, nestled along with the expected fresh, texture-providing accompaniments in a local-standard short Vietnamese baguette that is properly crusty and airy. The no-nonsense setting is usually deservedly packed during the lunchtime hours and provides an appropriate place for a tasty and cheap meal. 2611 San Jacinto (just south of McGowen), 77004, (713) 522-7007
Uberrito – The former Mission Burritos is down to just one location inside the loop, but their build-it-yourself burritos on giant 13” tortillas featuring a choice among now eight proteins or vegetables as a centerpiece are also much tastier than the similar competitors as are the “Ten Tasty Tacos,” which really are quite tasty, too. A bit of the creamy Serrano Ranch salsa seems to help with most burritos and tacos. The burritos are still large here, though maybe not as protein-packed as the in past, which is probably a good thing for most. These are still cheap, too, starting at under $8, and even cheaper on Mondays when the chicken burritos are just $5. They also serve burrito bowls and salads, too, so your more calorically conscious co-workers can also dine here without too much fret. 1609 Durham (just south of I-10), 77007, (713) 426-6634
The Döner or Gyro Sandwich at Istanbul Grill today
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