I somewhat recently included Lobster Fra Diavolo on a list of the best Italian-American dishes of all time. Most popular in the northeast, especially the New York area and Boston – near where lobsters are caught – the dish takes the southern Italian tradition of shellfish with factory-made pasta to feature sumptuous lobsters. It’s been found on Italian-themed restaurant menus since the 1930s, at least in New York where it is probably the most popular. Featuring tomato sauce seasoned with plenty of chopped garlic, oregano and red pepper flakes, it’s another exuberant of Italian-American cooking. “Fra diavolo” means “brother devil” in Italian and might suggest the heat of the red pepper flakes and also the red of the tomato sauce and cooked lobster. The name might also reference the nickname of a legendary and vicious bandit in southern Italy who was the subject of a nineteenth century opera.
Lobster Fra Diavolo can be a rich and fun dish. It might also have had a practical, or devious, reason for its creation. On a gastronomic trip to Italy nearly a decade ago sponsored by the Gruppo Ristoranti Italiani, a restaurateur from Massachusetts mentioned to me that he believed Lobster Fra Diavolo likely was created many years earlier because restaurants had to cover the taste of seafood going bad. If so, that gives an additional layer – maybe more substance, too – to the name of the dish, a slightly devilish one at that.
A version of Lobster Fra Diavolo from Tagliata restaurant in Baltimore
Lobster Fra Diavolo can be a rich and fun dish. It might also have had a practical, or devious, reason for its creation. On a gastronomic trip to Italy nearly a decade ago sponsored by the Gruppo Ristoranti Italiani, a restaurateur from Massachusetts mentioned to me that he believed Lobster Fra Diavolo likely was created many years earlier because restaurants had to cover the taste of seafood going bad. If so, that gives an additional layer – maybe more substance, too – to the name of the dish, a slightly devilish one at that.
A version of Lobster Fra Diavolo from Tagliata restaurant in Baltimore
