I am big fan of shrimp po boys, that New Orleans-bred sandwich classic. The crunch of the properly fried shrimp, the succulence of good-quality shrimp – which very easy to get here – the taste of a fresh, crusty short loaf of French bread that’s fully dressed, a complement of shredded iceberg lettuce, tomato slices, a fair amount of mayonnaise slathered on the brad and a few thin rounds of pickles a touch more texture and hint of acidity.
The excellent ones at Goode Co. Seafood are in the same vein, but just little different, a localized take. The medium-sized shrimp are butterflied before frying and just five to a sandwich, not overflowing as it other places, but not skimpy. In the finish-yourself version offered via takeout, the shrimp rest in the roll and on the side are an array of possible additions: shredded lettuce, a packet of mayonnaise, small containers of a piquant cocktail sauce, tartar sauce, pickles and another of pico de gallo in lieu of tomatoes, all house-made, of course, and then also a big wedge of lemon to squeeze on the shrimp. I opted for some tartar sauce instead of my usual, and the traditional, mayonnaise and plenty of pico de gallo. It all worked quite well together. Helping the enjoyment were some top-notch fries – not easy to find for takeout these days – skin-on, judiciously salted and crisper and tastier than most, even after a little travel.
Liking the meal so much, I had to pick up one to go again the following weekend at the address that is more convenient to me, the original one on Westpark. I resisted temptation to try something new, and a little healthier, the mesquite-grilled shrimp po boy. Deep-fried that time, too, and equally delicious.
Goode Co. Seafood
2621 Westpark (just west of Kirby), 77098, (713) 523-7154
10201 Katy Freeway (between Gessner and the Beltway), 77024, (713) 464-7933