There is a dumpier older sibling, Taqueria Abasolo just a few blocks away, but the friend whom I was meeting for breakfast and who lives in the neighborhood prefers the newer one, which I assume is nicer, if its setting and atmosphere are interchangeable with scores or more of other bare-bones taquerias in the Houston area. But, it augured well on arrival that the place was nearly entirely full at 10:15 and, for some desired authenticity, that we were the only non-Mexican patrons.
My recent-months morning habit at taquerias is to go for either the huevos con machacados or chilaquiles con huevos, two dishes I’m not going to make at home. The chilaquiles won out yesterday in the form of the Chilaquiles Abasolo. I just assumed it was better than the regular chilaquiles above it on the menu because of the longer name and that it sported a higher tariff, one of the most expensive of the breakfast items there, all of $4.99.
It proved to be an outstanding choice. The dish eventually arrived on a giant plate that must have at least 10” in diameter with the chilaquiles portion – the softened, fried pieces of corn tortillas with small slices of red and green chile peppers tucked under a blanket of melted white cheese – occupying just about a third of the offering. The two large eggs over easy and refried beans each took the other two thirds. With the eggs to the side, the presentation was a little different than most chilaquiles I’ve had, but a fair amount larger than the typical taqueria breakfast preparation. And each three parts of the dish was spot-on, better than usual and better than expected. I finished it with relish, amazed at the quality and amount for such a cheap price. Bolstered by a couple of well-done salsas on the table including a mild take on Taqueria Arandas’s viscous, tomatillo-laden green salsa, excellent flour tortillas certainly made in the kitchen, and surprisingly flavorful and fresh coffee, this proved to be a welcome, overly caloric and nicely affordable way to start a dreary weekend day.
Taqueria Abasolo #2
1822 N. Main (at Hogan) 77009, (713) 228-3344
It's bigger and tastier than it looks.