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    • Middle Eastern
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    • Steakhouses
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MIKE RICCETTI

Mostly food and drink...

...and mostly set in Houston

The baguette is now recognized by UNESCO; here’s where you can find a good one in Houston

12/11/2022

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Near the end of November, UNESCO, the heritage agency of the United Nations, added France’s daily staple and the symbol of the country to much of the world, the baguette, to its intangible cultural heritage list, a well-made, artisanal baguette, at least.  It deservedly joins the gloriously caloric and fat-laden French meal, the beer culture of Belgium, the harissa of North Africa, and Neapolitan pizza-making as food items on it.
 
I really enjoy a fresh, nicely crafted baguette, crusty and flavorful. It’s a regular part of my dinner at home accompanied with a little butter or more. Sometimes it’s even the centerpiece when I’m trying to eat less; with just olive oil for dipping, maybe some cheese, plus a fair amount of wine, of course. Here is where I recommend purchasing baguettes, in order of preference:

  • Common Bond – Now with several locations. The baguettes seem to be a little better at the ones without a drive-thru, but that drive-thru is certainly convenient.
  • Bread Man – Available at Whole Foods and the big H-E-Bs on Dunlavy and Buffalo Speedway, these are a larger size than elsewhere, stouter and a full two-feet long. You might have to wait until mid-morning until the breads at arrive at the stores, though.
  • Slow Dough – Smaller than elsewhere and seemingly always pricier, but still worth it, this bakery is primarily a supplier to restaurants and then grocers for bagged bread, there is a retail outlet adjacent to Weights and Measures in Midtownand available at Houston Dairy Maids near the Heights.
  • Kraftsmen Baking – A bustling café in the Heights with a big wholesale operation, this has been around longer the others, now over two decades.
  • Badolina – A fine baguette is among the enticing take-away options at this slick bake shop and café in the Rice Village that sits next to its buzzy sister concept, Hamsa.
  • Magnol – On Hempstead Highway and North Post Oak, not far west of the Loop, this spot is favored by several top restaurants in town and has baguettes both familiar and seeded.
  • Mademoiselle Louise – Primarily a French café right on Main Street downtown featuring pastries, quiches and sweets, this does make some baguettes each day in a couple of styles. Unfortunately, these have been sold out each time I’ve visited, so I’ll have to give a qualified recommendation, which is based on what else I’ve had there and the pedigree of the chef-owner.
 
Long and thin, baguettes go stale quickly, or should, so plan to purchase just on the day you’ll be eating it, or most of it.

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    Mike Riccetti is a longtime Houston-based food writer and former editor for Zagat, and not incidentally the author of three editions of Houston Dining on the Cheap.

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