This year that was has been a fun one for diners in Houston seeking new options. Among the very best ones to open were Italian-themed, Gulf seafood specialists, a diner of sorts, another desirable Spaniard, and a few others. Other notable openings were an upscale Indian in Upper Kirby, and a couple proficient, enticing and somewhat unique new Mexican options not too terribly far apart from each other on Shepherd and Yale, respectively, including one serving about the prettiest tacos in town. There were also a couple of cool new food halls including one that has become a downtown destination; also, an attractive new wine and cheese shop and bar in Montrose, with an exceedingly descriptive name and excellent pasties (if a surprisingly lame selection of wines by the glass the other night). Not much further west on Westheimer one of the best wine bars in the city, Penny Quarter, opened adjacent to Anvil and so, a small amount real estate for so many tempting alcoholic beverages.
Below are the top ten new restaurants to open in Houston in 2019, listed alphabetically, and described in a somewhat concise if occasionally blowsy way. To note, the approximate average prices for each reflect a typical dinner, which might be an appetizer, side or dessert in addition to the entrée – or a suitable number of small plates – a couple of drinks, tax and a 20% tip.
Atlas Diner – $25 – Richard Knight of Feast fame is the biggest name associated with Bravery Chef Hall, across from Market Square Park downtown, and his effort, though seemingly still a work in progress, is the most accomplished of the several restaurants in what is easily the city’s best, most interesting, and most fun food court. This is a diner, but a diner with a British bent including a bit of the British sense of humor, from one of the city’s top toques. There is breakfast all day in offbeat but enticing forms, very good fish chips, a version of butter chicken, and a copious braised rabbit and white bean filled chimichanga. Maybe not quite as polished as it could be, there is plenty reason to hope that this will be even better and more fun and possibly some Feast-like preparations in the future. 409 Travis (at Preston, in Bravery Chef Hall), 77002, (713) 364-2481
Elliot's Table – $65 – Set in a tiny, newish if ungainly strip center on TC Jester just north of I-10, this quite quaint place – only about 28-seats snuggly fit into an open space fronting an open kitchen – might be described as a neighborhood restaurant that is worthy of a trip across town for. Some global influences, top-notch local and regional products, and excellent execution of approachable and enticing items such as an excellent and piquant take on shrimp and grits, Gulf fish, steaks, lamb, even duck. along with a fair share of greens that are prepared with evident skill and welcome imagination. 465 TC Jester (just north of I-10), 77007, (713) 485-0340
Eugene's – $100 – The successor to Danton’s, which had to close as its longtime home in the Chelsea Market on Montrose was redeveloped, has found a home in Mockingbird’s former site tucked into the neighborhood between W. Gray and Westheimer. It doesn’t seem to have lost a step during its hiatus. The focus remains on locally attuned Gulf seafood preparations with a hearty dose of Louisiana influences. Its seafood gumbo sporting a really dark roux is still terrific. There are shrimp, oysters, blue crab, redfish and other fish in a number of delectable dishes served in a handsome dark-wooded setting. Not chef-driven but a destination for the long-loved Houston-style seafood that’s usually done much better than it was back in the day. 1985 Welch (at McDuffie), 77019, (713) 807-8883
MAD – $140 - Sibling to BCN, its name is also an airport designation, this one for Madrid. And the menu here provides dishes from the tapas scene of Spain’s capital plus a lot more in a distractingly dramatic, dynamic and upscale setting that’s the most intriguing – or wondrously odd, especially the trippy bathroom area – since the original location of Americas in the 1990s. The best restaurant in the pricey River Oaks District upon opening, the food is the real draw here with excellent chef-tuned takes on traditional Madrileño small plates along with some cool molecular gastronomy tricks that actually taste great, plus paella, and fire-roasted proteins from an easy-to-espy hearth. 4444 Westheimer (in the River Oaks District at Kettering, on Bettis, 77027, (281) 888-2770
One Fifth: Gulf Coast – $120 – The fourth concept for One Fifth, this one focuses on the cooking of the Gulf Coast from Texas and points east, especially Louisiana, and is another smashing success. Chef Chris Shepherd builds on his years at Brennan’s to craft a menu that is at once familiar and exciting for lovers of seafood. “Oysters, crab, shrimp, clams, crawfish—raw, cold, roasted, smoked, cured, fried” mostly featuring the spices and flavors popular here and with our neighbors in the oft-swampy east. The fish and shellfish preparations are excellent, but there is are also a Slow Roasted Duck Crown served with duck heart dirty rice and a blackened ribeye. Like its One Fifth predecessors in Mark’s old space, it’s all done with excellent ingredients, considerable skill in crafting combinations that work and a sense of fun. Plus, there’s an expectedly very well-chosen and fairly priced wine list once again from Matthew Pridgen. 1658 Westheimer (nearly at Dunlavy) 77006, (713) 955-1024
Rosalie's – $75 – Houston has historically been tough on out-of-town restaurateurs and hotel dining, but things might have changed, as west coast-based television chef Chris Cosentino has channeled his Italian-American roots into what has been a popular and adept smallish spot in a refurbished and now surprisingly hip hotel at the southwestern edge of downtown. Chef-created Italian-American might be the best description of the offerings here. The crab cannelloni features Sauce Americane, a French concoction featuring cream and lobster shells. Fairly rich and redolent of the sea, it’s quite tasty if not what any Italian-American family (or restaurant) makes. The menu is enticing with other pastas, spot-on sides such as roasted cherry tomatoes with garlic and breadcrumbs, and protein-centered preparations like a spicy Shrimp Fra Diavolo, a hanger steak Pizzaiolo also with peppers and capers, and a milanese with chicken – there’s no veal on the menu. There are pizzas, too. Though the crusts are not nearly flavorful nor soft enough to pull off a successful margherita, the other toppings should work well. This is a fun stop, and it’s in a hotel! 400 Dallas (at Bagby, in the C. Baldwin Hotel), 77002, (713) 351-5790
Rosie Cannonball – $125 – The second of five concepts, four serving food, to open in a very smart and neat complex in the heart of Westheimer’s restaurant row directly across the street from the estimable UB Preserv, this is essentially an Italian restaurant with a more than a few nods to the Iberian peninsula on the short menu. There are a trio of very well-crafted, if quite precious, fresh pasta preparations in the Emilian tradition, pizzas, plus breads and greens and other vegetables, and a quartet of proteins including the requisite steak and a bass filet Basque-style. These crowd-pleasing dishes and stylish space have made it an attractive stop for the ladies who lunch and a busy spot at night. The wine list is expansive and mainly Old World, but for an Italian-themed place an odd emphasis on Beaujolais – if with appealing producers like Guy Breton, often in large format. It’s pricey, too: the average 750ml bottle price is $120 and just a handful of Italian reds are under $75. 1620 Westheimer (between Mandell and Dunlavy), 77006, (832) 380-2471
Squable – $90 – Offbeat offerings mostly in small plate format done well are the calling card for this Heights hotspot that pairs the guidance of James Beard Award-winning chef Justin Yu of Theodore Rex and cocktail star Bobby Heugel of Anvil. They’ve assembled an experienced and skilled squad cooking, crafting and serving in an approachably hip space. On the menu there are several of each of breads, small plates, big plates and desserts compiled in contemporary fashion. The Common Bond heritage in the kitchen is evident with the baked goods, but there is much more to entice, from the sea, from plants and also tasty mammals like the crispy-skinned heritage pork served with salsa verde and the French cheeseburger – featuring raclette and butter – which is just a whole lot better than any Royale with cheese. 632 W 19th St. (just east of Shepherd), 77008, (832) 834-7362
1751 Sea & Bar – $125 – From the folks at The Pit Room who took over the spaces and operations of Cherry Pie Hospitality in 2018 – and grandly improved just about each of the three places – this specializes in Gulf seafood with a raw bar featuring colder water creatures along with over 100 different gins spun into a number of different cocktails. Those are fun, if not nearly the magic concocted by the gin tonics at BCN / MAD. Fish from the nearby Gulf are very nicely represented with flounder, a crispy snapper, mahi mahi, and a version of the classic redfish on the half-shell served with collards and Steen’s lacquer. There’s also a shrimp curry and a version of the increasingly commonly found hot pot, this one Thai-flavored like the curry. Japanese ingredients and inspirations are found on other dishes on a menu and restaurant that should appeal to any area seafood lover and seemingly it has, as crowded as it’s been. 191 Heights (just south of I-10), 77007, (832) 831-9820
Truth Barbeque – $30 – This fairly spacious contemporary barbecue joint on busy Washington Avenue that began in Brenham is a testament to how much Houstonians love Texas barbecue, top-notch Texas barbecue, as customers continue to fill the parking lot by late morning and queue up for terrific brisket before it sells out as they’ve done since soon after opening early in the year. Beef ribs are only on Saturday, unfortunately, but more-than-commendable pork ribs, pulled pork and sausage and more join the brisket every day (if not on Mondays when it’s closed). Among the best ‘cue in the area. 110 S. Heights (at Washington), 77007, (832) 835-0001
Five Ants on a Log, one of the whimsical dishes at Atlas Diner
Below are the top ten new restaurants to open in Houston in 2019, listed alphabetically, and described in a somewhat concise if occasionally blowsy way. To note, the approximate average prices for each reflect a typical dinner, which might be an appetizer, side or dessert in addition to the entrée – or a suitable number of small plates – a couple of drinks, tax and a 20% tip.
Atlas Diner – $25 – Richard Knight of Feast fame is the biggest name associated with Bravery Chef Hall, across from Market Square Park downtown, and his effort, though seemingly still a work in progress, is the most accomplished of the several restaurants in what is easily the city’s best, most interesting, and most fun food court. This is a diner, but a diner with a British bent including a bit of the British sense of humor, from one of the city’s top toques. There is breakfast all day in offbeat but enticing forms, very good fish chips, a version of butter chicken, and a copious braised rabbit and white bean filled chimichanga. Maybe not quite as polished as it could be, there is plenty reason to hope that this will be even better and more fun and possibly some Feast-like preparations in the future. 409 Travis (at Preston, in Bravery Chef Hall), 77002, (713) 364-2481
Elliot's Table – $65 – Set in a tiny, newish if ungainly strip center on TC Jester just north of I-10, this quite quaint place – only about 28-seats snuggly fit into an open space fronting an open kitchen – might be described as a neighborhood restaurant that is worthy of a trip across town for. Some global influences, top-notch local and regional products, and excellent execution of approachable and enticing items such as an excellent and piquant take on shrimp and grits, Gulf fish, steaks, lamb, even duck. along with a fair share of greens that are prepared with evident skill and welcome imagination. 465 TC Jester (just north of I-10), 77007, (713) 485-0340
Eugene's – $100 – The successor to Danton’s, which had to close as its longtime home in the Chelsea Market on Montrose was redeveloped, has found a home in Mockingbird’s former site tucked into the neighborhood between W. Gray and Westheimer. It doesn’t seem to have lost a step during its hiatus. The focus remains on locally attuned Gulf seafood preparations with a hearty dose of Louisiana influences. Its seafood gumbo sporting a really dark roux is still terrific. There are shrimp, oysters, blue crab, redfish and other fish in a number of delectable dishes served in a handsome dark-wooded setting. Not chef-driven but a destination for the long-loved Houston-style seafood that’s usually done much better than it was back in the day. 1985 Welch (at McDuffie), 77019, (713) 807-8883
MAD – $140 - Sibling to BCN, its name is also an airport designation, this one for Madrid. And the menu here provides dishes from the tapas scene of Spain’s capital plus a lot more in a distractingly dramatic, dynamic and upscale setting that’s the most intriguing – or wondrously odd, especially the trippy bathroom area – since the original location of Americas in the 1990s. The best restaurant in the pricey River Oaks District upon opening, the food is the real draw here with excellent chef-tuned takes on traditional Madrileño small plates along with some cool molecular gastronomy tricks that actually taste great, plus paella, and fire-roasted proteins from an easy-to-espy hearth. 4444 Westheimer (in the River Oaks District at Kettering, on Bettis, 77027, (281) 888-2770
One Fifth: Gulf Coast – $120 – The fourth concept for One Fifth, this one focuses on the cooking of the Gulf Coast from Texas and points east, especially Louisiana, and is another smashing success. Chef Chris Shepherd builds on his years at Brennan’s to craft a menu that is at once familiar and exciting for lovers of seafood. “Oysters, crab, shrimp, clams, crawfish—raw, cold, roasted, smoked, cured, fried” mostly featuring the spices and flavors popular here and with our neighbors in the oft-swampy east. The fish and shellfish preparations are excellent, but there is are also a Slow Roasted Duck Crown served with duck heart dirty rice and a blackened ribeye. Like its One Fifth predecessors in Mark’s old space, it’s all done with excellent ingredients, considerable skill in crafting combinations that work and a sense of fun. Plus, there’s an expectedly very well-chosen and fairly priced wine list once again from Matthew Pridgen. 1658 Westheimer (nearly at Dunlavy) 77006, (713) 955-1024
Rosalie's – $75 – Houston has historically been tough on out-of-town restaurateurs and hotel dining, but things might have changed, as west coast-based television chef Chris Cosentino has channeled his Italian-American roots into what has been a popular and adept smallish spot in a refurbished and now surprisingly hip hotel at the southwestern edge of downtown. Chef-created Italian-American might be the best description of the offerings here. The crab cannelloni features Sauce Americane, a French concoction featuring cream and lobster shells. Fairly rich and redolent of the sea, it’s quite tasty if not what any Italian-American family (or restaurant) makes. The menu is enticing with other pastas, spot-on sides such as roasted cherry tomatoes with garlic and breadcrumbs, and protein-centered preparations like a spicy Shrimp Fra Diavolo, a hanger steak Pizzaiolo also with peppers and capers, and a milanese with chicken – there’s no veal on the menu. There are pizzas, too. Though the crusts are not nearly flavorful nor soft enough to pull off a successful margherita, the other toppings should work well. This is a fun stop, and it’s in a hotel! 400 Dallas (at Bagby, in the C. Baldwin Hotel), 77002, (713) 351-5790
Rosie Cannonball – $125 – The second of five concepts, four serving food, to open in a very smart and neat complex in the heart of Westheimer’s restaurant row directly across the street from the estimable UB Preserv, this is essentially an Italian restaurant with a more than a few nods to the Iberian peninsula on the short menu. There are a trio of very well-crafted, if quite precious, fresh pasta preparations in the Emilian tradition, pizzas, plus breads and greens and other vegetables, and a quartet of proteins including the requisite steak and a bass filet Basque-style. These crowd-pleasing dishes and stylish space have made it an attractive stop for the ladies who lunch and a busy spot at night. The wine list is expansive and mainly Old World, but for an Italian-themed place an odd emphasis on Beaujolais – if with appealing producers like Guy Breton, often in large format. It’s pricey, too: the average 750ml bottle price is $120 and just a handful of Italian reds are under $75. 1620 Westheimer (between Mandell and Dunlavy), 77006, (832) 380-2471
Squable – $90 – Offbeat offerings mostly in small plate format done well are the calling card for this Heights hotspot that pairs the guidance of James Beard Award-winning chef Justin Yu of Theodore Rex and cocktail star Bobby Heugel of Anvil. They’ve assembled an experienced and skilled squad cooking, crafting and serving in an approachably hip space. On the menu there are several of each of breads, small plates, big plates and desserts compiled in contemporary fashion. The Common Bond heritage in the kitchen is evident with the baked goods, but there is much more to entice, from the sea, from plants and also tasty mammals like the crispy-skinned heritage pork served with salsa verde and the French cheeseburger – featuring raclette and butter – which is just a whole lot better than any Royale with cheese. 632 W 19th St. (just east of Shepherd), 77008, (832) 834-7362
1751 Sea & Bar – $125 – From the folks at The Pit Room who took over the spaces and operations of Cherry Pie Hospitality in 2018 – and grandly improved just about each of the three places – this specializes in Gulf seafood with a raw bar featuring colder water creatures along with over 100 different gins spun into a number of different cocktails. Those are fun, if not nearly the magic concocted by the gin tonics at BCN / MAD. Fish from the nearby Gulf are very nicely represented with flounder, a crispy snapper, mahi mahi, and a version of the classic redfish on the half-shell served with collards and Steen’s lacquer. There’s also a shrimp curry and a version of the increasingly commonly found hot pot, this one Thai-flavored like the curry. Japanese ingredients and inspirations are found on other dishes on a menu and restaurant that should appeal to any area seafood lover and seemingly it has, as crowded as it’s been. 191 Heights (just south of I-10), 77007, (832) 831-9820
Truth Barbeque – $30 – This fairly spacious contemporary barbecue joint on busy Washington Avenue that began in Brenham is a testament to how much Houstonians love Texas barbecue, top-notch Texas barbecue, as customers continue to fill the parking lot by late morning and queue up for terrific brisket before it sells out as they’ve done since soon after opening early in the year. Beef ribs are only on Saturday, unfortunately, but more-than-commendable pork ribs, pulled pork and sausage and more join the brisket every day (if not on Mondays when it’s closed). Among the best ‘cue in the area. 110 S. Heights (at Washington), 77007, (832) 835-0001
Five Ants on a Log, one of the whimsical dishes at Atlas Diner
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