Grabbing lunch last week at the slick new J-Bar-M barbecue joint – well, “joint” isn’t nearly the right descriptor, as grand, attractive and comfortable it is – I noticed its cool map showing locations of some popular Houston barbecue joints from the past, most of which I was quite familiar with. Though the barbecue game is far better today than it’s ever been, including the excellent fare at J-Bar-M, it was enjoyable for me to look back at that artwork and some part, a fun part as an adventurous diner, of Houston’s history.
One of the places in it is Kozy Kitchen which was at 1202 Lockwood, about a quarter mile south of I-10. It had one especially distinctive feature. Here is what I wrote about it in the second edition of Houston Dining on the Cheap that was published in 2004:
Since Lockwood Barbecue that was located directly across the street burned down a while ago, Kozy Kitchen is the only old-line barbecue restaurant left in the Fifth Ward. The Kozy Kitchen has been serving the neighborhood and visitors since 1946. This place is much more than a slice of history, as it could not continue to survive if it didn’t serve some very good food.
The Kozy Kitchen serves the basic African-American East Texas barbecue with at least one twist. In addition to the beef brisket, beef links (sausage), ribs and sides of potato salad and baked beans, there is barbecued veal. The Kozy Kitchen is certainly the only place in Houston that you will find this. The veal is veal brisket. It’s served tender and moist, with some of it blackened if you are lucky. It is good, but it is not nearly as flavorful as the beef brisket, which is probably why you never see it at barbecue joints. And, maybe the cost, too. The tastier and more traditional beef brisket is what Kozy Kitchen has gained its reputation and continued patronage. It’s moist and very tasty. Even better is when you ask for the “in and out” pieces or an ”in and out” sandwich. This means both inside and outside cuts of the brisket and you will be rewarded with several bits of excellent charred brisket that provides an enjoyable textural contrast with the tender inner meat, and even more flavor. The beef links, done in the distinctive East Texas-style, are good. The moist meats are even better with a few squirts of the hot sauce made on-site that sits on the counter and tables. Sandwiches are available with all of the meats for under five bucks. Sides are cheap, too. With the exception of Goode Co. Barbecue, Kozy Kitchen serves the best sides at a local barbecue place in town. There are only two, though, potato salad, which is heavy on the mayonnaise, and the slightly sweet baked beans. Both are uncomplicated, but both provide excellent accompaniments to any of the tasty, slow-cooked meats. Plates are hearty and offer a choice of one or two meats plus both the sides for $8.00. For the very large appetites, the three meat plate is $10.00. There is also a large baked potato stuffed with either chopped beef or chopped pork for $5.00.
The Kozy Kitchen is a bare-bones operation. The fairly good-sized dining room appears to be a bit empty much of the time. Part of this has to do with the fact that the dining area could accommodate several more tables and chairs. It is scruffy, but that is part of the attraction, especially since this place has been around since the start of the Cold War. Takeout is popular at the Kozy Kitchen. For sharing with the family at home, the meats and sides are available by the pound and quart, respectively. Only about six blocks south of I-10 on Lockwood, the Kozy Kitchen is quickly accessible from downtown during lunchtime.
One of the places in it is Kozy Kitchen which was at 1202 Lockwood, about a quarter mile south of I-10. It had one especially distinctive feature. Here is what I wrote about it in the second edition of Houston Dining on the Cheap that was published in 2004:
Since Lockwood Barbecue that was located directly across the street burned down a while ago, Kozy Kitchen is the only old-line barbecue restaurant left in the Fifth Ward. The Kozy Kitchen has been serving the neighborhood and visitors since 1946. This place is much more than a slice of history, as it could not continue to survive if it didn’t serve some very good food.
The Kozy Kitchen serves the basic African-American East Texas barbecue with at least one twist. In addition to the beef brisket, beef links (sausage), ribs and sides of potato salad and baked beans, there is barbecued veal. The Kozy Kitchen is certainly the only place in Houston that you will find this. The veal is veal brisket. It’s served tender and moist, with some of it blackened if you are lucky. It is good, but it is not nearly as flavorful as the beef brisket, which is probably why you never see it at barbecue joints. And, maybe the cost, too. The tastier and more traditional beef brisket is what Kozy Kitchen has gained its reputation and continued patronage. It’s moist and very tasty. Even better is when you ask for the “in and out” pieces or an ”in and out” sandwich. This means both inside and outside cuts of the brisket and you will be rewarded with several bits of excellent charred brisket that provides an enjoyable textural contrast with the tender inner meat, and even more flavor. The beef links, done in the distinctive East Texas-style, are good. The moist meats are even better with a few squirts of the hot sauce made on-site that sits on the counter and tables. Sandwiches are available with all of the meats for under five bucks. Sides are cheap, too. With the exception of Goode Co. Barbecue, Kozy Kitchen serves the best sides at a local barbecue place in town. There are only two, though, potato salad, which is heavy on the mayonnaise, and the slightly sweet baked beans. Both are uncomplicated, but both provide excellent accompaniments to any of the tasty, slow-cooked meats. Plates are hearty and offer a choice of one or two meats plus both the sides for $8.00. For the very large appetites, the three meat plate is $10.00. There is also a large baked potato stuffed with either chopped beef or chopped pork for $5.00.
The Kozy Kitchen is a bare-bones operation. The fairly good-sized dining room appears to be a bit empty much of the time. Part of this has to do with the fact that the dining area could accommodate several more tables and chairs. It is scruffy, but that is part of the attraction, especially since this place has been around since the start of the Cold War. Takeout is popular at the Kozy Kitchen. For sharing with the family at home, the meats and sides are available by the pound and quart, respectively. Only about six blocks south of I-10 on Lockwood, the Kozy Kitchen is quickly accessible from downtown during lunchtime.
