MIKE RICCETTI
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  • The best of Houston dining
    • Best Values
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    • Chinese
    • Cocktails
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    • Hamburgers
    • The Heights
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    • Indian / Pakistani
    • Mexican
    • Middle Eastern
    • Pizzerias
    • Sandwiches
    • Splurge-Worthy
    • Steakhouses
    • Sushi
    • Tacos
    • Tex-Mex
    • To Take Visitors
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    • The top 10 new restaurants of 2021
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  • The martini project
  • Italian restaurant history
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    • Booze basics
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  • Wine
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MIKE RICCETTI

Mostly food and drink...

...and mostly set in Houston

Pieropan at Palinuro, quite a find

8/27/2023

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I arrived uncharacteristically fifteen minutes early for dinner yesterday with my family at Palinuro, an Italian restaurant my brother and sister-in-law like near their house in Cinco Ranch, and so had ample time to peruse the short, simple wine list. Looking for a glass then I thought a bottle of white wine to start, as it was hot outside and we were six adults, I did a double-take when I saw Pieropan La Rocca for just $65 in the two-page booklet that was filled with mostly uninteresting choices. This Soave is a terrific wine and consistently one of Italy’s most acclaimed whites.
 
Made with entirely with Garganega grown in a single vineyard with clay and limestone soils, fermented in wood and aged for around fifteen months in 500-liter tonneaux, La Rocca offers a different, more deeply flavored expression of Soave. These are serious wines.
 
Though not indicated on the list, it turned out to be the 2021 vintage, which James Suckling gave 95 points. It was delicious. A bit of fruit on the nose and a taste that was easy and savory and very long-lasting, with a mouth-filling body. The wine worked well before dinner and throughout, especially with my very enjoyable, sturdy house-made ravioli filled with lobster and served in a light tomato, cream and crab sauce. We went through three bottles of La Rocca by the end of the meal.
 
Certainly a surprise to find it on Palinuro’s list – I keep my eye out for Pieropan having visited its dramatic new winery last summer – what was also unexpected was its price. You can find La Rocca at Total Wine for $38 now, which is almost ten dollars cheaper than elsewhere. Using the rule of thumb of a 200% to 300% markup over retail, most restaurants would price this from between $90 to $150, and it would certainly be fair.
 
I’ll wager that you won’t find a wine as good at any Houston restaurant as Pieropan La Rocca at Palinuro.
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    Mike Riccetti is a longtime Houston-based food writer and former editor for Zagat, and not incidentally the author of three editions of Houston Dining on the Cheap.

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