I had lunch again recently, another very satisfying one, at Maderas, the vibrant, fairly stylish Mexican restaurant that opened late last year in a strip center on lowest Westheimer. The dish I ordered that day, Enchiladas Rojas, were gorgeous, not a word that’s usually used for a plate of enchiladas and accompaniments. Zigzagging stripes of white crema fresca artistically and attractively punctuated the deep garnet-colored sauce, mildly spicy from the puree featuring guajillo chiles, that covered much of the plate over and surrounding the trio of plump stuffed thin corn tortillas also topped browned bits of queso fresco that highlighted the plate. Bits of red and green from the tomatoes of pico de gallo and lettuce leaves and greens inserted in the middle of the enchilada row provided a fresh-looking contrast at one edge of the plate and separate servings of Spanish rice and charro beans in a couple of metal bowls completed the order.
Using many more words than I ever have describing the look of an order of enchiladas – it was about the most arresting presentation that I had seen in a while, and easily the most visually appealing plate of enchiladas I’ve ever seen. OK, maybe that’s not too much, but it was something.
Most importantly, I really enjoyed the dish, which arrived quickly after ordering Very nice, shredded chicken provided the filling and that and the house-made corn tortillas were well-complemented by the sauce and some of the spice from the adjacent pico de gallo. The two sides were tasty, too: moist, perfectly cooked Spanish rice and the soupy charro beans with garlic, onion, bacon and chorizo, not long-cooked like at many places, but nearly as delicious. The only misstep was that the big lettuce leaves under the pico de gallo were unnecessary, both taste-wide and visually> Easy to avoid, though.
Its philosophy, “Fresh Modern Mexican Fare”, corrected from the misspelling on its site, is accurate. The food and service are not quite as refined as at Hugo Ortega’s Mexican outposts nor nearby Cuchara and Cucharita, but the plating and flavors have been nearly spot-on in each of my several visits from enchiladas, to tacos, egg dishes during brunch time and cocktails. The place – an L-shaped space that includes a patio, necessarily underused for a while this summer – might be easily overlooked even with the small banner, “Now Open” atop many months after opening. But if you enjoy Mexican food, you might want to give this a try.
Maderas
120 Westheimer (just west of Bagby), 77006, (713) 485-4441
maderascantina.com
Using many more words than I ever have describing the look of an order of enchiladas – it was about the most arresting presentation that I had seen in a while, and easily the most visually appealing plate of enchiladas I’ve ever seen. OK, maybe that’s not too much, but it was something.
Most importantly, I really enjoyed the dish, which arrived quickly after ordering Very nice, shredded chicken provided the filling and that and the house-made corn tortillas were well-complemented by the sauce and some of the spice from the adjacent pico de gallo. The two sides were tasty, too: moist, perfectly cooked Spanish rice and the soupy charro beans with garlic, onion, bacon and chorizo, not long-cooked like at many places, but nearly as delicious. The only misstep was that the big lettuce leaves under the pico de gallo were unnecessary, both taste-wide and visually> Easy to avoid, though.
Its philosophy, “Fresh Modern Mexican Fare”, corrected from the misspelling on its site, is accurate. The food and service are not quite as refined as at Hugo Ortega’s Mexican outposts nor nearby Cuchara and Cucharita, but the plating and flavors have been nearly spot-on in each of my several visits from enchiladas, to tacos, egg dishes during brunch time and cocktails. The place – an L-shaped space that includes a patio, necessarily underused for a while this summer – might be easily overlooked even with the small banner, “Now Open” atop many months after opening. But if you enjoy Mexican food, you might want to give this a try.
Maderas
120 Westheimer (just west of Bagby), 77006, (713) 485-4441
maderascantina.com
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