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    • Downtown Dining
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    • French Fries
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    • Galleria Area Dining
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MIKE RICCETTI

Mostly food and drink...

...and mostly set in Houston

Karbach Zee German Pils is another lager done very well by the brewery

2/1/2017

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​Lager beers, which are generally cleaner and crisper tasting than ales, take much longer and more difficult to brew.  Much more so, which is evident in the output of most smaller breweries, which often stick to the top-fermenting ales, with an occasional one-off with a lager that usually finishes with an odd, waxy aftertaste.  Karbach is an exception, and has been so since inception, brewing the laudable Sympathy for the Lager right off the bat. (And that beer has gotten even better since then).  Their new seasonal, Zee German Pils, is another winner.
 
This beer tastes like a good German pils, specifically a Munich-style pilsner, as a pils beer is made by each of the several Munich breweries.  Clean, and slightly bitter on the palate with mild German hops and long, very pleasant finish, this an easily likeable beer.  It’s a little lighter than the Sympathy for the Lager, and tastes a little less hoppy, even though both are listed as having 40 IBUs.  The Munich style pils is known for its “a big, malty middle” compared to other pilsners, according to late beer guru Michael Jackson, and the style is distinct from the better-known, more delicate and nuanced (and generally better) pilsners from Bohemia.  But, it’s less hefty than the most popular of the Munich beers, helles.  Interestingly, though labeled as a pils, the very good seasonal Summer Pils from Saint Arnold tastes more like helles than a pils.
 
With the quality of Karbach’s lagers – and their beers, overall, it should not be a surprise that their brewer Eric Warner is very experienced, with about a quarter-century in the field.  He even attended the Technical University of Munich at Weihenstephan that is renowned for its brewing program.
 
If you enjoy flavorful lagers, you should find some cans or a bar with it on draft, which might be tough, as it seems to be selling out quickly.  Likely available through March.
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    Mike Riccetti is a longtime Houston-based food writer and former editor for Zagat, and not incidentally the author of three editions of Houston Dining on the Cheap.

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