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    • Indian / Pakistani
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    • Middle Eastern
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    • Sandwiches
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MIKE RICCETTI

Mostly food and drink...

...and mostly set in Houston

The muffaletta, the second great Italian-American cold sandwich

1/7/2017

1 Comment

 
I just read an article about local versions of the muffaletta, which did not really do justice to the history of the sandwich.  The muffaletta is the second great Italian-American cold sandwich, in addition to the sub, after all.  Cold, well, room temperature.

Created in New Orleans, the muffaletta still largely a local and somewhat regional treat, and it might be the most enjoyable significant preparation in the Crescent City’s culinary legacy from the Sicilian immigrants.  It was created at the Central Grocery in New Orleans’ French Quarter sometime after it opened in 1906 by Salvatore Lupo.  Still around and located near the French Market and the wharves, it was a popular stop for the immigrant Sicilian dock workers and truck farmers to make their lunch.  His customers would purchase the meats, cheese, olive salad, which is traditional in much of Sicily, and bread.  They ate these separately, in the Italian style.  Without much in the way of space to eat in the small store, Lupo, seemingly taking a cue from the American habit, introduced these typically purchased group of items combined as a sandwich. 

That bread was the distinctive, dense circular loaf called muffaletta originally from Piana degli Albanesi, a largely ethnic Albanian community fifteen miles from Palermo, which became popular in the Sicilian capital, too.  The muffaletta bread had been baked in New Orleans for at least a decade at that time.  Customers quickly took to the creation, which was named after the bread.  Since the loaf is fairly large, about 10-inches in diameter, a normal order is a half a muffaletta.  When purchased from the Central Grocery where it is spelled muffuletta, it is a sandwich that improves after a few hours when the oil and vinegar from olive and vegetable mixture can penetrate and soften the thick bread.  The versions in Houston typically use softer bread and often served warm that are meant to be eaten on the spot and can also be very enjoyable, if something just a little different.

Central Grocery
923 Decatur, New Orleans, Louisiana 70116
(504) 523-1620
centralgrocery.com

A full muffaletta (or muffuletta) from the Central Grocery in New Orleans. These are really tasty and travel well.  I make sure to pick up one (or more) each time I am in New Orleans, as I did yesterday.  And, it tasted better today, too.
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1 Comment
John F. Sweeney
2/2/2017 08:39:46 am

Mike -
Thanks for this history on muffuletta. I had assumed the olive salad/spread was called muffuletta, as that is how I find it marketed here in Boston. One would put muffuletta olive spread on a sandwich of salami, cheese, etc to make a muffuletta sandwich.
John

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    Mike Riccetti is a longtime Houston-based food writer and former editor for Zagat, and not incidentally the author of three editions of Houston Dining on the Cheap.

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