MIKE RICCETTI
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  • The best of Houston dining
    • Best Values
    • Breakfast
    • Chinese
    • Cocktails
    • Fajitas
    • Hamburgers
    • The Heights
    • Italian
    • Indian / Pakistani
    • Mexican
    • Middle Eastern
    • Pizzerias
    • Sandwiches
    • Splurge-Worthy
    • Steakhouses
    • Sushi
    • Tacos
    • Tex-Mex
    • To Take Visitors
  • The margherita pizza project
  • The martini project
  • Musings on Houston Dining
    • The top 10 new restaurants of 2022
    • The top 10 new restaurants of 2021
    • The top 10 new restaurants of 2019
    • The top 10 new restaurants of 2018
    • The dozen best Inner Loop values
    • Dining recommendations for visitors to Houston
  • Italian restaurant history
  • Italian & Italian-American
  • Entertaining tips
    • Booze basics
    • Styles of Cheeses
    • Handling Those Disruptive Guests
  • Wine
  • Beer
  • Cocktails and Spirits
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MIKE RICCETTI

Mostly food and drink...

...and mostly set in Houston

Home Slice wines are quite surprising, in a good way

5/7/2023

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I enjoyed my first visit to Home Slice, the intentionally kitschy, Austin-bred, New York-style pizza joint that opened a few months ago in Midtown amid a cluster of bars and restaurants in the former space of Monica Pope’s t’afia and Sparrow. It was busy Saturday evening at the restaurant, and tough to find even a stool near the cashier. But the freshly baked pizza was well worth the slight hassle, and service was friendly and efficient and the vibe was fun. There was also a short of list of enticing wines, which pleasantly surprised me, to say the least. All Italian, too.
 
I like wine with pizza, even if wine is not a classic pairing with New York-style pizza. You think a cold beer or a sugary soda water. You don’t think Italian wine. I like it, though, as Italian wines generally go well with food, even if the provenance is actually the city of New York. Here is its list:
 
Whites:
  • Luchi Pinot Grigio – $8 per glass / $28 for a bottle
  • Calasole Vermentino – $10 / $36
  • Botromagno Gravina Bianco – $11.50 / $42
  • Giuliana Prosecco – $12.50 / $46
  • Saracco Moscato d’Asti (375mL) – $11.50 / $24
 
Reds :
  • Pala Silenzi Rosso – $8 / $28 – A Carignano, Monica blend from Sardinia, and value performer
  • Nevio Montepulciano d’Abruzzo – $10 / $36
  • Coppo L’Avvocata Barbera d’Asti – $11.50 / $42
  • Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico – $12.50 / $46
  • Allegrini Valpolicella Classico – $13.50 / $48
 
Lambrusco and Rosé:
  • Cleto Chiarli Brut de Noir Rosé – $12 / $44
  • Vigneto Cialdini Lambrusco – $12 / $44
  • Ca’Maiol Chiaretto Rosé – $13 / $47
 
Wanting to give Lambrusco another chance with pizza, I went with the Cleto Chiarli. Not a success for me, but it’s certainly a good wine. My buddy’s Nevio Montepulciano d’Abruzzo was a much better choice with pizza. And I was especially happy to see the Coppo L’Avvocata, as Coppo was my favorite producer among the many I sampled in the Asti area on a trip sponsored by the Barbera d’Asti consortium a few years ago. The Moscato d’Asti consortium was another sponsor of that junket, so I’m more aware of those wines. The balanced Saracco Moscato d’Asti on the menu can be very enjoyable, too, but much more so with a dessert on the menu or just by itself.
 
The quality, food-friendly Italian wines at Home Slice are good to see. Cannisters of oregano joining the ones with red pepper flakes and Parmesan were, too, reminding me of my time in the northeast. Never had a good Italian wine with a New York-style pizza up there, though.
 
Home Slice Pizza
3701 Travis (between Holman and Alabama), (832) 810-7437
homeslicepizza.com/location/houston-midtown/

A little more than a slice from Home Slice on a subsequent visit
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    Mike Riccetti is a longtime Houston-based food writer and former editor for Zagat, and not incidentally the author of three editions of Houston Dining on the Cheap.

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