MIKE RICCETTI
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    • Mexican
    • Middle Eastern
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MIKE RICCETTI

Mostly food and drink...

...and mostly set in Houston

Even the bar bites at Kuu are an enticement

5/19/2017

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You might not think to venture to a very attractively appointed, modern Japanese restaurant for cubes of fried beef served in its bar, but this bar menu-only option is really very good: the petite pieces are moist and quite flavorful, though in non-steak manner, and are surprisingly light-tasting for what appears to be just small pieces of beef.
 
As beautiful as much of the presentation is at Kuu, this just dish looks as it sounds it might; there is only so pretty a fried piece of beef can look, especially something that is meant to be eaten with a small plastic skewer.  It is just one of the many tempting delights you can find at Kuu.  And, this delicious preparation on the bar menu is an affordably and easy way to ease into the restaurant where you can certainly spend money, especially when some of the delectable, and sometimes obscure, sea creatures flown in from Japan are in store. 
 
Addison Lee, a veteran of the famed Nobu chain before decamping to several well-regarded stints at Houston sushi restaurants, along with his team can create a wide range of refined Japanese-inspired dishes.  Those skills were on display at a seven-course media dinner the other night that included Peruvian-style crudo, nigiri sushi featuring less-frequently-seen fish, butter-poached lobster claws, small pieces of Chilean seabass wrapped in bacon, a playful brioche donut for dessert, and – for me the highlight – succulent slices of rare A5 Wagyu ribeye served with several types of mushrooms cut thinly and a bit of coconut milk.
 
Though if you don’t want to indulge in something like this, there is always the fried beef in the bar and other top-notch small plates, which, when paired with one of their very good Asian-themed cocktails, can make for an enjoyable visit in itself.
 
Kuu
947 Gessner (on the feeder of I-10 in from of Memorial Hermann), 77024, (713) 461-1688
kuurestaurant.com
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    Mike Riccetti is a longtime Houston-based food writer and former editor for Zagat, and not incidentally the author of three editions of Houston Dining on the Cheap.

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