The dozen best dining values inside the loop
Though dining in Houston is more expensive than ever, even during the hopeful tail end of the pandemic, there a still some very good dining values. When I compiled this list five years ago, I had ten restaurants; now I felt compelled to make it a dozen. The best dining values do not mean the cheapest joints, but are those that provide the best food for its price. Sometimes cheap is just cheap. Leading the way for best dining values are banh mi and Mexican spots, like before. Here are the dozen best:
Aladdin – Picking up a tray and gazing across the partition into an expanse of enticing, mostly vegetarian preparations – roughly 30 items most lunchtimes well beyond the two types of creamy hummus and baba ganoush – is just a preface to an enjoyable and very affordable meal, as the dishes often taste even better than they look. A well-cooked meat like chicken shawarma, lamb gyro or one of the day’s stews, comes with two sides on filling platter for just $13.99 and usually a dollar cheaper during lunch. Not only the best value Middle Eastern restaurant, Aladdin is one of the best in Houston. 912 Westheimer (at Montrose), 77006, (713) 942-2321
Baguette & Tea – This tiny spot in a small strip center across from the West Alabama Ice House is worth enduring the usually terrible parking – a block or so walk might be in order – for some of the best renditions of banh mi in the city. There are seven different filling options for these geared toward inner Loopers led by the Spice BBQ Pork (thit nuong) and the Grilled Lemongrass Beef, of course. Sandwiches and Asian teas and other drinks in a variety of renditions are the main draws here, but there is also pho, vermicelli bowls, rice plates with the less-seen-these-days broken rice, and fried rice, with only one item on the menu over $7. 2007 W. Alabama (at McDuffie), 77098, (832) 516-8871
The Cuban Station – This low-volume counter-service – or window-service, actually – operation with a handful of tables located within the convenience store section of a Chevron gas station on Harrisburg a couple of miles east of downtown provides an excellent value led by the iconic Cuban sandwich at the top of the menu and which the owner is quick to recommend. It is delicious, probably the best version of it in the city, and also quite substantial, just over a foot long, only $7.49, amazingly cheap for the heft and quality. There are a number of other inexpensively priced sandwiches, Cuban-influenced and otherwise, hamburgers, including one with a one-pound patty for a relative song, and batidos, fruit shakes. Nothing is over $8 here. The necessary short wait is well worth it. Lunch and early dinner. 5001 Harrisburg (between Lockwood and Alt 90), 77011, (832) 272-9680
Giacomo’s – This comfortable and eminently enjoyable River Oaks spot is a casual Italian restaurant done right, or an appealing neighborhood restaurant of any stripe done right. The well-executed fare is vibrant, light on its feet, and properly evoking Italy, often with dishes inspired from chef-proprietor Lynette Hawkins days growing up in Rome and Tuscany. Nothing is over $20 and there are plenty of items that are meant to share. And, its list of nearly all-Italian wines – interesting, very well-selected and easily affordable – is still likely the best value wine list with any breadth in the city. 3215 Westheimer (at Bammel Lane), 77098, (713) 522-1934
Istanbul Grill – A reason to brave the traffic and parking travails in the Village with its interesting, well-prepared Turkish food in a pleasant, informal setting, often lively atmosphere, and noticeably friendly and eager service. Many of their traditional Anatolian items are baked in a brick oven that is evident in the somewhat open kitchen, including the distinctive Turkish pizzas that can provide a filling meal for $11-$15. The kabob platters are a great value here, easily worth the $15 tariff for the beef and lamb doner kabob and $16 for the lash shish kabob. The portions are generous and served with a large amount of moist rice and grilled tomatoes and bell peppers. Fresh and warm house-made thin pide bread nicely complements every table. 5613 Morningside (just north of University), 77005, (713) 526-2800
La Guadalupana – Though not much to look at, and really not much at all in terms of size, this is nonetheless an excellent neighborhood place for a pleasing Mexican meal in the morning or afternoon, or to grab some attractive and scrumptious pastries, Mexican and otherwise, and coffee. The dumpy little dining room has become increasingly more crowded, and less dumpy, in recent years as more have discovered the considerable charms of the inexpensive breakfast and lunch spot. For just $9.99, you can get lighter-than-typical enchiladas verdes or poblano enchiladas – with a proprietor from Puebla, the mole poblano are worth ordering – or, for about the same price, the terrific stewed pork slathered in a verdant spicy salsa, asado de puerco. The breakfast tacos are not what they once were, but the other, dine-in-type morning preparations are worth a stop. 2100 Dunlavy (between Fairview and West Gray) 77019, (713) 522-2301
Laredo Taqueria – The lines running out the door of the original location on Washington of this air conditioned taco stand from about 7:30AM to 1:30PM and often beyond, are a testament to its popularity which derives in large part because of healthy-sized tacos on fresh flour tortillas that are just $3 with a range of fillings prefaced by a smear of refried beans. Three is enough for most, and four for a gluttonous meal. Never mind the occasional piece of cartilage or gristle, as these are never enough to ruin a toco. The locations on the near north side operated by other family members might be more consistent – or just less crowded – especially the one on Patton, but this location is far more convenient for most. 915 Snover (on Washington east of Shepherd), 77007 and three others north of downtown
Master Taco – Parked at Richmond and Woodhead since the spring of 2020, this noticeably friendly taco truck serves up terrific small tacos on flavorful house-made corn or flour tortillas Monday through Friday for lunch and early dinner, where, for good reason, you will usually find at least someone waiting near the intersection for their food. Those taquitos are what to order here, $2 on double corn tortillas, $2.50 for flour, though a little more for lengua and tripa – and the tender and flavorful lengua might be worth it. Beef, pastor, chicken, chicharron en salsa verde, chorizo with nopales, and carnitas round out the fillings, all worth ordering. Sopes, gorditas, quesadillas, chicharones, and the daily plates are also worth a try. 1802 Richmond (at Woodhead), (832) 654-0285
Pepper Twins – A recent lunch special for just $9.99 featuring the namesake chicken dish showed what this mini-chain does at its best: a preparation rooted in Sichuan with typically spicy and often numbing flavors, recognizably high-quality proteins, fresh vegetables, evident skill in the kitchen, and a delicious result that can be an outstanding value. The meats are much better and much more flavorful than at most local restaurants in this price range, which is easy to notice. The chicken comes from Springer Mountain, no hormone and no antibiotics, and tastier thighs are used. The beef is Certified Angus Beef. The pork is from the Berkshire breed. Currently with five locations scattered around the Houston area, there are two inside the Loop, and these might be the best of the lot. It’s more fun to eat with others here to be able enjoy several of the many enticing preparations and there are a few of the missteps on the menu, but these spots rarely fail to satisfy. This is why there are often more than a few patrons from China dining here (or picking up now). 1915 W. Gray (west of Dunlavy), 77019, (346) 204-5644 and 3915 Kirby (at the Southwest Freeway), 77098, (346) 444-6493
Roostar – Houston’s best banh mi purveyor just opened a third location, in the East End on Navigation, its first inside the Loop. Slicker than most other similar restaurants, this is banh mi 2.0 featuring excellent baguettes from Slow Dough that are a little different than the local banh mi norm, better meats including ribeye and pork cooked sous vide, and a result that’s always very satisfying. A bit more expensive than what you’ll usually find elsewhere, but the banh mi prices top out at $8.29. Eggrolls, curry-laden fries and a few other items can complement a sandwich order. 2929 Navigation (between Jensen and Sampson), 77003, (713) 636-9710
Thien An – The familiar, fairly lengthy Houston-area Vietnamese menu including spring and fried egg rolls, banh mi, rice plates, vermicelli bowls, and pho is provided here. It’s just done noticeably better than most other places, and not just budget options. The banh mi are one longtime highlight, especially for the local favorite, the char-grilled pork (all the way to $3.99 now), since the restaurant is more generous than most with the pork, which is nicely cooked, tender and richly flavorful, nestled along with the expected fresh, texture-providing accompaniments in a local-standard short Vietnamese-style baguette that is properly fresh, crusty and airy. The no-nonsense setting provides an appropriate place for a tasty and wallet-friendly meal. 2611 San Jacinto (just south of McGowen), 77004, (713) 522-7007
Uberrito – What began as Mission Burritos a couple of decades ago is down to just one location inside the Loop, but their design-it-yourself burritos on giant 13” tortillas featuring a choice among now about ten proteins or vegetables as a centerpiece are also much tastier than the similar competitors as are the “Ten Tasty Tacos” are quite tasty, too. The creamy serrano ranch, especially, or fiery green salsa applied during construction seems to help with most burritos and tacos, but the results rarely disappoint, regardless. The burritos are still large, though maybe not as protein-packed as the in past, which is probably a good thing for most of us. Still pretty cheap, too, starting at under $8, and even cheaper on Mondays when the chicken and veggie burritos are just $5. 1609 Durham (just south of I-10), 77007, (713) 426-6634
Published August 4, 2021
Aladdin – Picking up a tray and gazing across the partition into an expanse of enticing, mostly vegetarian preparations – roughly 30 items most lunchtimes well beyond the two types of creamy hummus and baba ganoush – is just a preface to an enjoyable and very affordable meal, as the dishes often taste even better than they look. A well-cooked meat like chicken shawarma, lamb gyro or one of the day’s stews, comes with two sides on filling platter for just $13.99 and usually a dollar cheaper during lunch. Not only the best value Middle Eastern restaurant, Aladdin is one of the best in Houston. 912 Westheimer (at Montrose), 77006, (713) 942-2321
Baguette & Tea – This tiny spot in a small strip center across from the West Alabama Ice House is worth enduring the usually terrible parking – a block or so walk might be in order – for some of the best renditions of banh mi in the city. There are seven different filling options for these geared toward inner Loopers led by the Spice BBQ Pork (thit nuong) and the Grilled Lemongrass Beef, of course. Sandwiches and Asian teas and other drinks in a variety of renditions are the main draws here, but there is also pho, vermicelli bowls, rice plates with the less-seen-these-days broken rice, and fried rice, with only one item on the menu over $7. 2007 W. Alabama (at McDuffie), 77098, (832) 516-8871
The Cuban Station – This low-volume counter-service – or window-service, actually – operation with a handful of tables located within the convenience store section of a Chevron gas station on Harrisburg a couple of miles east of downtown provides an excellent value led by the iconic Cuban sandwich at the top of the menu and which the owner is quick to recommend. It is delicious, probably the best version of it in the city, and also quite substantial, just over a foot long, only $7.49, amazingly cheap for the heft and quality. There are a number of other inexpensively priced sandwiches, Cuban-influenced and otherwise, hamburgers, including one with a one-pound patty for a relative song, and batidos, fruit shakes. Nothing is over $8 here. The necessary short wait is well worth it. Lunch and early dinner. 5001 Harrisburg (between Lockwood and Alt 90), 77011, (832) 272-9680
Giacomo’s – This comfortable and eminently enjoyable River Oaks spot is a casual Italian restaurant done right, or an appealing neighborhood restaurant of any stripe done right. The well-executed fare is vibrant, light on its feet, and properly evoking Italy, often with dishes inspired from chef-proprietor Lynette Hawkins days growing up in Rome and Tuscany. Nothing is over $20 and there are plenty of items that are meant to share. And, its list of nearly all-Italian wines – interesting, very well-selected and easily affordable – is still likely the best value wine list with any breadth in the city. 3215 Westheimer (at Bammel Lane), 77098, (713) 522-1934
Istanbul Grill – A reason to brave the traffic and parking travails in the Village with its interesting, well-prepared Turkish food in a pleasant, informal setting, often lively atmosphere, and noticeably friendly and eager service. Many of their traditional Anatolian items are baked in a brick oven that is evident in the somewhat open kitchen, including the distinctive Turkish pizzas that can provide a filling meal for $11-$15. The kabob platters are a great value here, easily worth the $15 tariff for the beef and lamb doner kabob and $16 for the lash shish kabob. The portions are generous and served with a large amount of moist rice and grilled tomatoes and bell peppers. Fresh and warm house-made thin pide bread nicely complements every table. 5613 Morningside (just north of University), 77005, (713) 526-2800
La Guadalupana – Though not much to look at, and really not much at all in terms of size, this is nonetheless an excellent neighborhood place for a pleasing Mexican meal in the morning or afternoon, or to grab some attractive and scrumptious pastries, Mexican and otherwise, and coffee. The dumpy little dining room has become increasingly more crowded, and less dumpy, in recent years as more have discovered the considerable charms of the inexpensive breakfast and lunch spot. For just $9.99, you can get lighter-than-typical enchiladas verdes or poblano enchiladas – with a proprietor from Puebla, the mole poblano are worth ordering – or, for about the same price, the terrific stewed pork slathered in a verdant spicy salsa, asado de puerco. The breakfast tacos are not what they once were, but the other, dine-in-type morning preparations are worth a stop. 2100 Dunlavy (between Fairview and West Gray) 77019, (713) 522-2301
Laredo Taqueria – The lines running out the door of the original location on Washington of this air conditioned taco stand from about 7:30AM to 1:30PM and often beyond, are a testament to its popularity which derives in large part because of healthy-sized tacos on fresh flour tortillas that are just $3 with a range of fillings prefaced by a smear of refried beans. Three is enough for most, and four for a gluttonous meal. Never mind the occasional piece of cartilage or gristle, as these are never enough to ruin a toco. The locations on the near north side operated by other family members might be more consistent – or just less crowded – especially the one on Patton, but this location is far more convenient for most. 915 Snover (on Washington east of Shepherd), 77007 and three others north of downtown
Master Taco – Parked at Richmond and Woodhead since the spring of 2020, this noticeably friendly taco truck serves up terrific small tacos on flavorful house-made corn or flour tortillas Monday through Friday for lunch and early dinner, where, for good reason, you will usually find at least someone waiting near the intersection for their food. Those taquitos are what to order here, $2 on double corn tortillas, $2.50 for flour, though a little more for lengua and tripa – and the tender and flavorful lengua might be worth it. Beef, pastor, chicken, chicharron en salsa verde, chorizo with nopales, and carnitas round out the fillings, all worth ordering. Sopes, gorditas, quesadillas, chicharones, and the daily plates are also worth a try. 1802 Richmond (at Woodhead), (832) 654-0285
Pepper Twins – A recent lunch special for just $9.99 featuring the namesake chicken dish showed what this mini-chain does at its best: a preparation rooted in Sichuan with typically spicy and often numbing flavors, recognizably high-quality proteins, fresh vegetables, evident skill in the kitchen, and a delicious result that can be an outstanding value. The meats are much better and much more flavorful than at most local restaurants in this price range, which is easy to notice. The chicken comes from Springer Mountain, no hormone and no antibiotics, and tastier thighs are used. The beef is Certified Angus Beef. The pork is from the Berkshire breed. Currently with five locations scattered around the Houston area, there are two inside the Loop, and these might be the best of the lot. It’s more fun to eat with others here to be able enjoy several of the many enticing preparations and there are a few of the missteps on the menu, but these spots rarely fail to satisfy. This is why there are often more than a few patrons from China dining here (or picking up now). 1915 W. Gray (west of Dunlavy), 77019, (346) 204-5644 and 3915 Kirby (at the Southwest Freeway), 77098, (346) 444-6493
Roostar – Houston’s best banh mi purveyor just opened a third location, in the East End on Navigation, its first inside the Loop. Slicker than most other similar restaurants, this is banh mi 2.0 featuring excellent baguettes from Slow Dough that are a little different than the local banh mi norm, better meats including ribeye and pork cooked sous vide, and a result that’s always very satisfying. A bit more expensive than what you’ll usually find elsewhere, but the banh mi prices top out at $8.29. Eggrolls, curry-laden fries and a few other items can complement a sandwich order. 2929 Navigation (between Jensen and Sampson), 77003, (713) 636-9710
Thien An – The familiar, fairly lengthy Houston-area Vietnamese menu including spring and fried egg rolls, banh mi, rice plates, vermicelli bowls, and pho is provided here. It’s just done noticeably better than most other places, and not just budget options. The banh mi are one longtime highlight, especially for the local favorite, the char-grilled pork (all the way to $3.99 now), since the restaurant is more generous than most with the pork, which is nicely cooked, tender and richly flavorful, nestled along with the expected fresh, texture-providing accompaniments in a local-standard short Vietnamese-style baguette that is properly fresh, crusty and airy. The no-nonsense setting provides an appropriate place for a tasty and wallet-friendly meal. 2611 San Jacinto (just south of McGowen), 77004, (713) 522-7007
Uberrito – What began as Mission Burritos a couple of decades ago is down to just one location inside the Loop, but their design-it-yourself burritos on giant 13” tortillas featuring a choice among now about ten proteins or vegetables as a centerpiece are also much tastier than the similar competitors as are the “Ten Tasty Tacos” are quite tasty, too. The creamy serrano ranch, especially, or fiery green salsa applied during construction seems to help with most burritos and tacos, but the results rarely disappoint, regardless. The burritos are still large, though maybe not as protein-packed as the in past, which is probably a good thing for most of us. Still pretty cheap, too, starting at under $8, and even cheaper on Mondays when the chicken and veggie burritos are just $5. 1609 Durham (just south of I-10), 77007, (713) 426-6634
Published August 4, 2021
