The best restaurants in Midtown
In the shadow of downtown, Midtown is more of a destination for its bars and clubs geared toward a younger set, but there are a few restaurants worthy of a drive, also, if not nearly the number found in neighboring Montrose. And there are still some inexpensive, homey Vietnamese restaurants left in a section of the city that that had a heavy concentration of those for over a quarter of century until about a decade ago. The city’s best wine bar, 13 Celsius, also resides in Midtown, which will attract most of the serious diners.
Listed alphabetically.
Posted on February 1, 2023.
The Best
Breakfast Klub – American – On the weekends, and seemingly most days during the week, lines form well outside the entrance; some evidence that this has become a local icon since opening in 2001. Deserving of its national attention, The Breakfast Klub serves excellent and interesting, fun and unpretentious food – Green Eggs & Ham and Katfish & Grits – for breakfast and lunch in an informal setting with a certain amount of cool. Though stylish, the staff are noticeably very friendly, and the restaurant always seems to have a warm vibe to it. Though not soul food in the traditional sense, the offerings have a noticeable African-American feel, and are divided neatly among breakfast plates, omelets, breakfast sandwiches, salads, and lunch sandwiches and larger format lunch specials, most with a fair amount of fat and a lot of flavor.
Brennan’s – Creole – This sibling of the famed Commander’s Palace in New Orleans has been an fine-dining fixture in Midtown since 1967 and its locally attuned Creole cooking seems to be better than in any time since Danny Trace departed as executive chef in 2017. The emphasis is on the bounty of the Gulf cooked in butter, and turtle soup and any fish preparation usually makes for winning meal. A bountiful wine list, famous desserts and 25-cent martinis during weekdays lunches are some other draws.
Damian’s – Italian-American – The cooking here might be described as an upscale Gulf Coast version of the country’s beloved Southern Italian-American fare. Flavors and portions are generous. In dining rooms made cozy by low-ceilings and lights, you can enjoy specialties like filet mignon grilled and finished with the piquant herbaceous Sicilian ammoghiu sauce, plump veal chops, Shrimp Damian, and Fra Diavolo Linguine, a medley of seafood including lobster and lump crabmeat in a piquant marinara sauce. It might not excite as it did many years ago, but can be a satisfying stop for a familiar cuisine.
Elro – Pizza / American – This, “a neighborhood pizzeria and crudo bar located in a bungalow house at the confluence of the Montrose and Midtown neighborhoods,” might seem like an odd thing, but unpretentious Elro makes splendid sense. This is largely because its headed Terrance Gallivan, who was one of the principals at the acclaimed Pass & Provisions once nearby – in the space now housing Bludorn – that turned out some good pizzas among its many adept preparations. The pizzas here are different than what I remember from Provisions, but superb. It begins with the crust, which are puffy, with a slightly raised crown at its edges and a bottom that is nicely charred; light and flavorful throughout, with a welcome fresh taste that is delicious to the last bite, In a big city with a deficit of quality pizzerias, the terrific pizzas are a start and a draw for many, but this, a smart, comfy place will appeal to frequent diners even when not in the mood for pizza. The cooling crudos are mostly seafood including East Coast oysters on the half-shell and four appealing and unique combinations: tuna with pistachio and some ‘nduja spice; smoked kampachi with pumpkin seeds and a Japanese flavors; snapper with pickled mangos, olives and chile peppers; and the Italian mint nepitella-cured salmon with apples and hazelnut; plus a take on steak tartare, a dish that has become more commonly seen here again. There’s also a couple terrific sandwiches, fun cocktails sporting the names of Springsteen songs, and a well-chosen, mostly Italian list of wines.
The Lymbar – Pan Latin – In in the Ion technology hub, this quickly became a busy lunchtime stop for those elsewhere in the building with its mostly pan-Latin offerings that are joined by Levantine-inspired grilled items and flavors. From David Cordua, whose father was responsible for the former ground-breaking local favorites Churrascos and Americas, that significant influence is found in the Central American-style chimichurri sauce in a few preparations along with the churrasco and tres leches and a welcome sense of whimsy. There is a list of specialty cocktails to aid that and a small selections of wines and beers. The setting is upscale and loungey with some sofas for dining and a kitchen bar and another bar for cocktails. The dark lighting, a prominent tree and a few large hanging plants might give the impression of gloomy forest here, but it's unique at least.
Oporto – Portuguese – An attractive outpost of a cuisine that’s underserved locally from veteran restaurateurs help make this an enticing addition to Midtown as it nears Montrose on Gray. There are plenty of small plates in the Portuguese fashion like grilled sardines, croquettes of bacalhau, and steamed mussels and also those emphasizing meats and vegetables, some from the once-colonial possessions in India and Africa; a few large preparations, too. The full bar can more than aptly complement the numerous types of bar bites and the nicely chosen well list highlights Portugal and includes a tempting array of madeiras and ports by the glass.
Thien An – Vietnamese – The familiar, fairly lengthy old school Houston-area Vietnamese menu including spring and fried egg rolls, banh mi, rice plates, vermicelli bowls, and pho is provided here. It’s just done noticeably better than most other similar places, and not just budget options. The banh mi are just one longtime highlight, especially for the local favorite, the char-grilled pork, since the restaurant is more generous than most with the pork, which is nicely cooked, tender and richly flavorful, nestled along with the expected fresh, texture-providing accompaniments in a local-standard short Vietnamese-style baguette that is properly fresh, crusty and airy. The no-nonsense setting – often bustling with downtown office workers, Vietnamese-American cops and the occasional Catholic priest – provides an appropriate place for a tasty and wallet-friendly meal. Only opened until 6:00 every day but Saturday.
Thirteen – American – From former Rocket star James Harden – not exactly a favorite of most Houston fans these days – who opened this just across the Pierce Elevated from downtown right as he was whining his way to a trade to seemingly-unbeatable-at-the-time Nets, engendering a lot of initial hostility and scads of poor online reviews. The restaurant, with a kitchen turning out boldly flavorful and jubilantly caloric dishes that resonated with many local diners, soon overcame the sourness of Harden’s departure and has been a popular for weekend brunch and occasional celebrity spotting.
Wanna Bao – Chinese – Proclaiming itself on its signage as “Hearty Chinese Bistro / Dumpling House.” It is. And a good one at that, and in a hip, industrial-sparse bistro-like setting at the edge of Midtown is well beyond what would be typical of a similar place along Bellaire Boulevard, serving both dishes from Shanghai and the madly popular spicy Szechuan region, Wanna Bao seemingly succeeds with both – as with both ends of its signage, the dumplings for certain.
Weights + Measures – American – This can be a solid stop for lunch, brunch, dinner and even a bake shop featuring the goods from the estimable Slough Dough, this multi-hued Midtowner appeals in several ways. There are doughy pizzas, duck confit tortellini and an aged bone-in pork chop among the well-executed evening offerings that pare well with the attractive, modern and usually energetic space. It might be better than ever as Richard Knight of Feast and Hunky Dory acclaim and one of the area’s top chefs is now manning the kitchen.
Winnie’s – American – On Main Street, fittingly set amid a cluster of other eclectic small venues, the menu here leads with cocktails, a draw for many patrons before 5:00 during the week with its nicely crafted libations for just $7, but there is really well-done food here, too. Graham Lahorde, who won plaudits when heading kitchen at Bernandine’s a few years ago, offers fun sandwiches, salads, snacks and a nice little oyster program, many items with a Louisiana accent.
A lusty presentation at Brennan's
Listed alphabetically.
Posted on February 1, 2023.
The Best
Breakfast Klub – American – On the weekends, and seemingly most days during the week, lines form well outside the entrance; some evidence that this has become a local icon since opening in 2001. Deserving of its national attention, The Breakfast Klub serves excellent and interesting, fun and unpretentious food – Green Eggs & Ham and Katfish & Grits – for breakfast and lunch in an informal setting with a certain amount of cool. Though stylish, the staff are noticeably very friendly, and the restaurant always seems to have a warm vibe to it. Though not soul food in the traditional sense, the offerings have a noticeable African-American feel, and are divided neatly among breakfast plates, omelets, breakfast sandwiches, salads, and lunch sandwiches and larger format lunch specials, most with a fair amount of fat and a lot of flavor.
Brennan’s – Creole – This sibling of the famed Commander’s Palace in New Orleans has been an fine-dining fixture in Midtown since 1967 and its locally attuned Creole cooking seems to be better than in any time since Danny Trace departed as executive chef in 2017. The emphasis is on the bounty of the Gulf cooked in butter, and turtle soup and any fish preparation usually makes for winning meal. A bountiful wine list, famous desserts and 25-cent martinis during weekdays lunches are some other draws.
Damian’s – Italian-American – The cooking here might be described as an upscale Gulf Coast version of the country’s beloved Southern Italian-American fare. Flavors and portions are generous. In dining rooms made cozy by low-ceilings and lights, you can enjoy specialties like filet mignon grilled and finished with the piquant herbaceous Sicilian ammoghiu sauce, plump veal chops, Shrimp Damian, and Fra Diavolo Linguine, a medley of seafood including lobster and lump crabmeat in a piquant marinara sauce. It might not excite as it did many years ago, but can be a satisfying stop for a familiar cuisine.
Elro – Pizza / American – This, “a neighborhood pizzeria and crudo bar located in a bungalow house at the confluence of the Montrose and Midtown neighborhoods,” might seem like an odd thing, but unpretentious Elro makes splendid sense. This is largely because its headed Terrance Gallivan, who was one of the principals at the acclaimed Pass & Provisions once nearby – in the space now housing Bludorn – that turned out some good pizzas among its many adept preparations. The pizzas here are different than what I remember from Provisions, but superb. It begins with the crust, which are puffy, with a slightly raised crown at its edges and a bottom that is nicely charred; light and flavorful throughout, with a welcome fresh taste that is delicious to the last bite, In a big city with a deficit of quality pizzerias, the terrific pizzas are a start and a draw for many, but this, a smart, comfy place will appeal to frequent diners even when not in the mood for pizza. The cooling crudos are mostly seafood including East Coast oysters on the half-shell and four appealing and unique combinations: tuna with pistachio and some ‘nduja spice; smoked kampachi with pumpkin seeds and a Japanese flavors; snapper with pickled mangos, olives and chile peppers; and the Italian mint nepitella-cured salmon with apples and hazelnut; plus a take on steak tartare, a dish that has become more commonly seen here again. There’s also a couple terrific sandwiches, fun cocktails sporting the names of Springsteen songs, and a well-chosen, mostly Italian list of wines.
The Lymbar – Pan Latin – In in the Ion technology hub, this quickly became a busy lunchtime stop for those elsewhere in the building with its mostly pan-Latin offerings that are joined by Levantine-inspired grilled items and flavors. From David Cordua, whose father was responsible for the former ground-breaking local favorites Churrascos and Americas, that significant influence is found in the Central American-style chimichurri sauce in a few preparations along with the churrasco and tres leches and a welcome sense of whimsy. There is a list of specialty cocktails to aid that and a small selections of wines and beers. The setting is upscale and loungey with some sofas for dining and a kitchen bar and another bar for cocktails. The dark lighting, a prominent tree and a few large hanging plants might give the impression of gloomy forest here, but it's unique at least.
Oporto – Portuguese – An attractive outpost of a cuisine that’s underserved locally from veteran restaurateurs help make this an enticing addition to Midtown as it nears Montrose on Gray. There are plenty of small plates in the Portuguese fashion like grilled sardines, croquettes of bacalhau, and steamed mussels and also those emphasizing meats and vegetables, some from the once-colonial possessions in India and Africa; a few large preparations, too. The full bar can more than aptly complement the numerous types of bar bites and the nicely chosen well list highlights Portugal and includes a tempting array of madeiras and ports by the glass.
Thien An – Vietnamese – The familiar, fairly lengthy old school Houston-area Vietnamese menu including spring and fried egg rolls, banh mi, rice plates, vermicelli bowls, and pho is provided here. It’s just done noticeably better than most other similar places, and not just budget options. The banh mi are just one longtime highlight, especially for the local favorite, the char-grilled pork, since the restaurant is more generous than most with the pork, which is nicely cooked, tender and richly flavorful, nestled along with the expected fresh, texture-providing accompaniments in a local-standard short Vietnamese-style baguette that is properly fresh, crusty and airy. The no-nonsense setting – often bustling with downtown office workers, Vietnamese-American cops and the occasional Catholic priest – provides an appropriate place for a tasty and wallet-friendly meal. Only opened until 6:00 every day but Saturday.
Thirteen – American – From former Rocket star James Harden – not exactly a favorite of most Houston fans these days – who opened this just across the Pierce Elevated from downtown right as he was whining his way to a trade to seemingly-unbeatable-at-the-time Nets, engendering a lot of initial hostility and scads of poor online reviews. The restaurant, with a kitchen turning out boldly flavorful and jubilantly caloric dishes that resonated with many local diners, soon overcame the sourness of Harden’s departure and has been a popular for weekend brunch and occasional celebrity spotting.
Wanna Bao – Chinese – Proclaiming itself on its signage as “Hearty Chinese Bistro / Dumpling House.” It is. And a good one at that, and in a hip, industrial-sparse bistro-like setting at the edge of Midtown is well beyond what would be typical of a similar place along Bellaire Boulevard, serving both dishes from Shanghai and the madly popular spicy Szechuan region, Wanna Bao seemingly succeeds with both – as with both ends of its signage, the dumplings for certain.
Weights + Measures – American – This can be a solid stop for lunch, brunch, dinner and even a bake shop featuring the goods from the estimable Slough Dough, this multi-hued Midtowner appeals in several ways. There are doughy pizzas, duck confit tortellini and an aged bone-in pork chop among the well-executed evening offerings that pare well with the attractive, modern and usually energetic space. It might be better than ever as Richard Knight of Feast and Hunky Dory acclaim and one of the area’s top chefs is now manning the kitchen.
Winnie’s – American – On Main Street, fittingly set amid a cluster of other eclectic small venues, the menu here leads with cocktails, a draw for many patrons before 5:00 during the week with its nicely crafted libations for just $7, but there is really well-done food here, too. Graham Lahorde, who won plaudits when heading kitchen at Bernandine’s a few years ago, offers fun sandwiches, salads, snacks and a nice little oyster program, many items with a Louisiana accent.
A lusty presentation at Brennan's
