Hospoda on the Upper East Side
For an establishment that has gained attention for its beer, it was odd to find that Hospoda – which means “beer house” in Czech – did not have any bar seating. As primarily a restaurant, and a diminutive fine-dining one at that, there is simply no room. Located in the Bohemian National Hall on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, Hospoda serves refined, modern Czech cuisine. The presentation is stylish. Technique is evident. And, defying tradition, the portions are tiny. Preparations include smoked beef tongue, roasted squab, and ham with aspic and horseradish foam.
The only beer served is impeccably fresh, delicate draft Pilsner Urquell. Uniquely, it is served four ways: nearly entirely foam; “four-finger foam”; poured normally; and with no head at all. Sampled in succession, there were four distinct sensations, all immensely enjoyable. The all-foam version was milky and slightly sweet. The significantly foamy version was noticeably refreshing. The regular pour was delicious, and the neat version allowed more of the beautiful Saaz hops to shine.
Hospoda opened with an acclaimed draft-master from one of its sibling properties in Prague. When I visited the bartender was from less-Bohemian settlement of Lake Charles, Louisiana, where they must know something about pouring beers, too.
Hospoda
321 East 73rd Street
New York City, New York 10021
(212) 861-1038
hospodanyc.com
Draft tasting of the four pours (sweet, slice, creme, neat) is $19, served in 0.3 liter mugs
Hospada has since closed, but has re-opened with the same owner and same chef as Bohemian Spirit that is seemingly quite enticing, with likely the same terrific quality beer and now available in other flavors than Pilsner Urquell. The New York Times writer enjoyed it, as did my brother who has consumed plenty of PU over the years, including in Pilzen when the fermenting casks were still open-topped.
The only beer served is impeccably fresh, delicate draft Pilsner Urquell. Uniquely, it is served four ways: nearly entirely foam; “four-finger foam”; poured normally; and with no head at all. Sampled in succession, there were four distinct sensations, all immensely enjoyable. The all-foam version was milky and slightly sweet. The significantly foamy version was noticeably refreshing. The regular pour was delicious, and the neat version allowed more of the beautiful Saaz hops to shine.
Hospoda opened with an acclaimed draft-master from one of its sibling properties in Prague. When I visited the bartender was from less-Bohemian settlement of Lake Charles, Louisiana, where they must know something about pouring beers, too.
Hospoda
321 East 73rd Street
New York City, New York 10021
(212) 861-1038
hospodanyc.com
Draft tasting of the four pours (sweet, slice, creme, neat) is $19, served in 0.3 liter mugs
Hospada has since closed, but has re-opened with the same owner and same chef as Bohemian Spirit that is seemingly quite enticing, with likely the same terrific quality beer and now available in other flavors than Pilsner Urquell. The New York Times writer enjoyed it, as did my brother who has consumed plenty of PU over the years, including in Pilzen when the fermenting casks were still open-topped.
