What is likely the best pizzeria in Houston is opening very soon in the Heights. I went to a soft-opening dinner the other day at the attractive Angie’s Pizza on 11th Street a few blocks east of Shepherd to sample some of the menu. It was fantastic throughout. Proprietor and pizzaiolo Angelo Emiliani won acclaim at pizza pop-ups and Café Louie that became Louie’s Italian American in the East End. Acclaim but not financial success, and those restaurants shuttered. Emiliani returned to work with Chris Bianco, the country’s most acclaimed pizza maker, as the culinary director the Pizzeria Bianco in Los Angeles, which carries a Bib Gourmand designation from Michelin. Emiliani knows pizza.
At the table, waiting for pasta and pastas, I ordered their seasonal Negroni, the White Negroni. With the pale-colored Bitter Bianco substituting for the Campari, a hint of cantaloupe melon juice and a bit of sweet Tokaji wine, served straight up, this was a much different take on the classic. Much less bitter, a touch sweet, and with a beguiling taste, it was delicious, drinking dangerously quickly.
The pasta, the agnolotti del plin, quickly arrived. This is the version of ravioli popular in the Langhe and Monferrato areas of Piedmont. Angie’s fills theirs with shreds of braised Texas wagyu and these sit in a good amount of jus of that beef and topped with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. The soft pasta pockets nicely held their shapes stuffed with the juicy, rich meat and had a really nice flavor. This was fresh pasta done very well. This agnolotti del plin was different than the many ones I have had in Piedmont in years past – it was not the deep yellow from the overload egg yolks in the pasta – but I really enjoyed it. Definitely worth an order, though there is a good chance that you’ll need some more food even with this $28 tag.
Following quickly on the heels of the pasta were the items of most anticipation, the pizzas. These certainly did not disappoint. Done in the neo-Neapolitan style that Chris Bianco popularized, these are made with the soft ‘00’ flour and quickly cooked in a traditional wood-burning oven. The large oven here, a Neapolitan style from Marra Forni, is impressive. Emiliani told me afterwards that the pizzas he is making – and he was tending the oven yesterday – are the same ones that Bianco’s places make, except he is offering a different and broader range of toppings. The crusts, the true test of a pizza, were spot-on, light but firm enough for the toppings and nicely cooked. Wonderful. A pizzeria cannot hide with the minimal Margherita, the pizza at the heart of Naples-style pizza. Angie’s was terrific, bolstered by the very tasty, charred crust, and atop with raw preserved tomatoes, a good amount of quality, fresh mozzarella and then the basil leaves scattered after cooking. Balanced like a margherita should be, letting the excellent tomato, mozzarella, basil and bread in proper measures to work their magic together. The busier Piccante pizza was at least as delectable. Topped with the tomatoes, mozzarella, pepperoni-like Spanish chorizo with some spice, some fennel and garlic, and also with honey. Honey works well with spice. It did here. The two pizzas disappeared in virtually no time.
As enjoyable as the savory foods were, maybe surprisingly so, I felt I had to try a dessert from Emiliani’s sister, Lucianna, who is an acclaimed pastry chef. The unusual Blueberry & Cream Tiramisu with jasmine tea, lychee cream, and almond cake substituting for ladyfingers was terrific. Rich, complex, not so sweet, it was one of the best desserts I have had in a while. The artisanal sundae featuring a coconut custard my friend ordered was just as enjoyable. Some people might want to visit Angie’s just for one of its handful of sweets.
Also, the short list of wines by the glass is well-chosen, ranging widely but all chosen with food in mind. On an Etna kick after a recent visit there, the Fessina Etna Rosso was a little surprising to see, and perfect with the pizzas. Wine is served unpretentiously in stocky glasses and maybe not overly generously. I didn’t look the full list, but it should have plenty of temptations based on what is by the glass. And the interior that seats just under a hundred is diner-like in a very nice and contemporary way, with a long bar and the massive post oak-stoked oven in a corner behind it. There is also a dark and alluring bar seating under twenty, up the stairs outside operating separately that is another attraction.
Angie’s is much more than a pizza joint. Not only will it be probably the best pizzeria in Houston, it will also one of the very best new restaurants to open here this year. Initially slated for opening yesterday, I was told it should be very soon.
Angie’s Pizza
1002 W 11th St. (a few blocks east of Shepherd), 77008
www.angiespizzapies.com
At the table, waiting for pasta and pastas, I ordered their seasonal Negroni, the White Negroni. With the pale-colored Bitter Bianco substituting for the Campari, a hint of cantaloupe melon juice and a bit of sweet Tokaji wine, served straight up, this was a much different take on the classic. Much less bitter, a touch sweet, and with a beguiling taste, it was delicious, drinking dangerously quickly.
The pasta, the agnolotti del plin, quickly arrived. This is the version of ravioli popular in the Langhe and Monferrato areas of Piedmont. Angie’s fills theirs with shreds of braised Texas wagyu and these sit in a good amount of jus of that beef and topped with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. The soft pasta pockets nicely held their shapes stuffed with the juicy, rich meat and had a really nice flavor. This was fresh pasta done very well. This agnolotti del plin was different than the many ones I have had in Piedmont in years past – it was not the deep yellow from the overload egg yolks in the pasta – but I really enjoyed it. Definitely worth an order, though there is a good chance that you’ll need some more food even with this $28 tag.
Following quickly on the heels of the pasta were the items of most anticipation, the pizzas. These certainly did not disappoint. Done in the neo-Neapolitan style that Chris Bianco popularized, these are made with the soft ‘00’ flour and quickly cooked in a traditional wood-burning oven. The large oven here, a Neapolitan style from Marra Forni, is impressive. Emiliani told me afterwards that the pizzas he is making – and he was tending the oven yesterday – are the same ones that Bianco’s places make, except he is offering a different and broader range of toppings. The crusts, the true test of a pizza, were spot-on, light but firm enough for the toppings and nicely cooked. Wonderful. A pizzeria cannot hide with the minimal Margherita, the pizza at the heart of Naples-style pizza. Angie’s was terrific, bolstered by the very tasty, charred crust, and atop with raw preserved tomatoes, a good amount of quality, fresh mozzarella and then the basil leaves scattered after cooking. Balanced like a margherita should be, letting the excellent tomato, mozzarella, basil and bread in proper measures to work their magic together. The busier Piccante pizza was at least as delectable. Topped with the tomatoes, mozzarella, pepperoni-like Spanish chorizo with some spice, some fennel and garlic, and also with honey. Honey works well with spice. It did here. The two pizzas disappeared in virtually no time.
As enjoyable as the savory foods were, maybe surprisingly so, I felt I had to try a dessert from Emiliani’s sister, Lucianna, who is an acclaimed pastry chef. The unusual Blueberry & Cream Tiramisu with jasmine tea, lychee cream, and almond cake substituting for ladyfingers was terrific. Rich, complex, not so sweet, it was one of the best desserts I have had in a while. The artisanal sundae featuring a coconut custard my friend ordered was just as enjoyable. Some people might want to visit Angie’s just for one of its handful of sweets.
Also, the short list of wines by the glass is well-chosen, ranging widely but all chosen with food in mind. On an Etna kick after a recent visit there, the Fessina Etna Rosso was a little surprising to see, and perfect with the pizzas. Wine is served unpretentiously in stocky glasses and maybe not overly generously. I didn’t look the full list, but it should have plenty of temptations based on what is by the glass. And the interior that seats just under a hundred is diner-like in a very nice and contemporary way, with a long bar and the massive post oak-stoked oven in a corner behind it. There is also a dark and alluring bar seating under twenty, up the stairs outside operating separately that is another attraction.
Angie’s is much more than a pizza joint. Not only will it be probably the best pizzeria in Houston, it will also one of the very best new restaurants to open here this year. Initially slated for opening yesterday, I was told it should be very soon.
Angie’s Pizza
1002 W 11th St. (a few blocks east of Shepherd), 77008
www.angiespizzapies.com
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