MIKE RICCETTI
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MIKE RICCETTI

Mostly food and drink...

...and mostly set in Houston

Don’t forget that Bordeaux comes in white, too

9/10/2026

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Though I had recently came across this piece of Bordeaux history, it was still somewhat surprising to hear from the representative of a Bordeaux winery seated next to me at an event a couple of weeks ago at Rosie Cannonball that until a few decades ago, white grapes consisted about 70 percent of the vines planted in Bordeaux. Given the considerable renown of its famous red labels, many wine drinkers will be surprised to learn that Bordeaux makes white wine at all. That includes many who drink Sancerre or Sauvignon Blanc almost to exclusion. Bordeaux’s dry white wines are made largely with Sauvignon Blanc.
 
These white wines from Bordeaux can be wise options at the retail shop or on the wine list, especially as Sancerre is hardly a value anymore. White Bordeaux is usually a blend featuring primarily Sauvignon Blanc for citrus and minerality and Semillon for a little sweetness, richness and some body, the percentage of the mix can be an insight into its relative dryness. Less if more of the latter.
 
Bordeaux’s whites come in two general styles, both dry and with nice acidity. One is light, lively and generally fruity with citrus flavors light lime, lemon, grapefruit and maybe some honey and honeysuckle. These are the most widely found and easier on the wallet. The other style is structured, rich and generous on the palate, often with flavors of fig, apple, and ginger. Fermented and aged in small oak barrels, some of these cane be special treats, like the Château Haut-Brion Blanc that is regarded as one of the world's great white wines, and release prices around $900 today. In fact, one of its wines was the most memorable, the best, I had at a sprawling Bordeaux tasting some years ago that included a number of top chateaux.
 
Compared to the incredibly popular Sancerres, white Bordeaux is less herbaceous, expresses less minerality and is usually rounder, less overtly acidic. Though a Sauvignon Blanc drinker is unlikely to confuse the two wines, white Bordeauxs can be enjoyable for those who enjoy the grape.
 
I often think of white Bordeaux to be had with seafood, especially Gulf seafood. This is a product pairing boozy meals in New Orleans at Galatoire’s and Commanders Palace, especially, with trout amadine or pecan-crusted black drum. Wine is necessary for the fish, the meal, and white Bordeaux almost always provides a nice complement and is nicely affordable. Given the French heritage of New Orleans that extends to many of its wine lists, white Bordeaux is seemingly always there. The day before the Bordeaux trade event, very unusually, I had glass of wine with lunch. Coincidentally, it was a white Bordeaux, which went very well with the shrimp etouffee at Eugene’s.
 
White Bordeaux does great duty to start an evening or a meal, working very well as an aperitif. These can be very easy to drink. Consuming as an aperitif was the first recommendation from the winemakers or winery representatives I talked to for their wines. I especially enjoyed Chateau Marjosse Blanc 2025 that supple and juicy with hints of acacia, interestingly made with 15 percent Sauvignon Gris, and the Clos Floridene Blanc 2022, with notable aromas of lemon zest and welcome lingering finish aided by time on the lees. About $18 and $35 retail, respectively. Two expressions worth the tariffs.

Some of the white Bordeauxs at the Total Wine on Studemont

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    Mike Riccetti is a longtime Houston-based food writer and former editor for Zagat, and not incidentally the author of three editions of Houston Dining on the Cheap.

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