Though beef carpaccio is just raw meat accompanied with a simple dressing that includes bottled Worcestershire sauce, it is regarded a chic dish. The thinness of it certainly helps. And greatly aiding its stylish, fashionable image was the opening in late 1985 in the Sherry-Netherland Hotel off Central Park of the Harry Cipriani restaurant. This was somewhat of a replica, menu included, of the legendary Harry’s Bar in Venice. Encouraged and then staked by wealthy Lord Charles Forte – originally a poor boy from a small town southeast of Rome – Harry Cipriani in New York quickly became a trendy celebrity hangout. Splashy guests, big checks, struggles with co-owners, openings and closings, and indifferent reviews, ensued in the next twenty-plus years of the Cipriani clan operating in Manhattan, but the restaurant was another example that an upscale Italian can be as trendy, extravagant – not to mention snooty – as any French place.
Carpaccio in its original beef form began to appear on menus elsewhere in America in earnest in the 1980s following the publicity of the restaurant and its signature dish transplanted to the media capital of New York. Its continued popularity is also due to its lightness and relatively mild flavor. It works well to start a meal for most, satisfying without being filling. Plus, beef carpaccio is not very difficult at all to assemble and serve.
Beef carpaccio at one of the Cipriani restaurants
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