The biggest Michelin misses and missteps

Michelin is most focused on false positives, avoiding undeserving inclusions – though there always some and a handful locals in this initial guide for Houston – and it’s obvious from the recommendations for other cities that the list scratches the surface, at best.  That is even much more so in the very first guide for a place when the inspector(s) for the city can only visit so many restaurants.
 
But Michelin starts slowly.  I heard from the ceremony on Monday that Michelin only starts an area with single stars at most.  Actually, I don’t believe that there are any two-star spots here, but good to know.  And likely confirmation that it is going slowly in all things.
 
Bao Ong had an interesting interview in the Houston Chronicle yesterday with “anonymous Chief Inspector of the Michelin Guide North America.”  There was a laughably odd response that, “The Michelin Guide is unique because it evaluates only the cuisine itself. But it can also mention service quality and decor, and describe the experience you can get at a certain restaurant.”  Maybe this is more true now with a few noodle shops, taco stands and now barbecue joints being recommended, but certainly décor and service matter, much more so when stars are awarded.  My friend in Mexico City thought that taco stand star was definitely a joke, even in terms of the food compared to many similar spots.
 
Anyway, I am very happy Michelin is here.  It’s a start, and there will be many more recommended places in the future, as in New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, and Washington, DC.
 
Star-worthy omissions:

• Katami
• Little Oyster’s Bar
• Navy Blue
• Uchi

 
Recommended, and most of these are Bib Gourmand according to its criteria, examples from other cities, and the ones that were cited for Houston as such:

• Amalfi
• Auden
• Backstreet Café
• Bari
• Brennan’s
• Caracol
• Da Marco
• Elro
• Eunice
• Goode Co. Seafood
• Goode Co. Kitchen & Cantina – C’mon Candente over this?
• Hugo’s
• Lucille’s
• Kata Robata
• Kiran’s
• Ostia
• Pacha Nikkei
• Pondicheri
• Riel
• Soto
• Squable
• Tiny Champions
• Tony’s
• Xochi

 
Inclusions I would not have made:

• Rosemeyer BBQ – I was with a couple of other wine and food writers during the live-stream of the event and none of us had even heard of the place.  Maybe it is great, but there are a number of other barbecue places that are full-service spots that are certainly deserving that were not included.
• Candente – I have dined here almost ten times and usually quite enjoy it, but I don't believe it is nearly as deserving as Goode Co. Kitchen & Cantina and El Tiempo, each probably hurt in consideration for having multiple locations.
• Killen’s – Having dined heard several times and not too far from me, it has not been on my list to visit for a while now.  Maybe it has gotten better recently.  I have loved Killen’s BBQ and enjoyed Killen’s STQ.

 
Also, I don’t doubt that Corkscrew should have been included on the list, but certainly not with a star, especially with a number of other area barbecue joints are just as good, or better, and in nicer digs.

At Pacha Nikkei last year