MIKE RICCETTI
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  • The best of Houston dining
    • Guinness pours
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  • The margherita pizza project
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  • Musings on Houston Dining
    • The top 10 new restaurants of 2019
    • The top 10 new restaurants of 2018
    • The top 10 new restaurants of 2017
    • The top 10 new restaurants of 2016
    • The 10 best Inner Loop values
    • Dining recommendations for visitors to Houston
  • Italian restaurant history
  • Italian & Italian-American
  • Entertaining tips
    • Booze basics
    • Styles of Cheeses
    • Handling Those Disruptive Guests
  • Wine
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MIKE RICCETTI

Mostly food and drink...

...and mostly set in Houston

A pasta dish that’s great for that leftover crawfish

3/19/2017

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If you have not finished all the crawfish at your boil, or a friend’s for that matter, spending a few minutes gathering crawfish tails can lead to a terrific pasta dish the next day or two.  There is more than etouffee and stock that you can use the boiled and neglected crawfish.  A bright, simple and chucky marinara and the goodness of garlic, onions and peppers gives the crawfish a nice complement and pasta.  Don’t be put off by the number of ingredients or steps, this is actually quite easy.  It is an adaption of dish at Ciro’s, the longstanding Italian-American restaurant on I-10 in Spring Branch that's about to move into new digs at the new Hotel Za Za there.
 
Simply grab some boiled crawfish rip of the heads and legs and stick them in a plastic bag to take home and refrigerate.  You’ll have to remove the tail meat before preparing this dish, but you’ll be part of the way there.
 
Serves – 2 hearty portions

Crawfish sauce:
White Onion, diced – 1 medium
Bell Pepper, seeded and diced – 1
Garlic, finely chopped – 2 cloves
Crawfish tails – About 30
Salt – To taste
Black Pepper, freshly ground – To taste
 
Marinara sauce:
 
Canned peeled and diced tomatoes – 28 ounces
Garlic, chopped – 1 clove
Red pepper flakes – Pinch
Olive oil – 3 tablespoons
Salt – ¼ tablespoon
Black Pepper, freshly ground – Pinch
Fresh basil, chopped – 2 tablespoons
 
For the pasta:
 
Dried pasta like penne, farfalle or linguine – ½ pound
Salt – plenty
 
Cooking Steps:

  1. Remove the crawfish meat from the refrigerated tails.
  2. Prepare the marinara sauce – don’t use a garbage jarred pasta sauce – as this is easy and can be done while the pasta water heats and the crawfish sauce created.  Heat the olive oil over medium-low heat.  Add the garlic and cook until golden, but not brown.  Add the red pepper flakes and cook for about a minute.  Add the tomatoes then salt and pepper.  Cook for about 30 minutes.  Add the fresh boil soon before serving.
  3. Heat the pasta water.
  4. Begin the crawfish sauce by heating the olive oil over medium-low heat.  When warmed add the onion and cook until softened.  Add the bell pepper and cooked for about 5 minutes.  Add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes.
  5. Add plenty of salt to the boiling water.  Slightly undercook the pasta according to the package directions.
  6. Add the crawfish tails and cook for about 3 minutes.  As these are already cooked, you are essentially re-heating them and do not want to overcook them.
  7. Add several scoops of the finished marinara sauce to the crawfish sauce and simmer for about 3 minutes.
  8. Add the cooked pasta and heat for 1 minute.
  9. Add salt and pepper to taste.  You likely need the former.


Crawfish from one of my boils a few years ago.
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Well-suited for the Mardi Season: A cooling, Cajun Martini

2/18/2017

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A few years ago I helped teach a Leisure Learning class based on The Guide to Ridiculously Easy Entertaining included recipe for a chilled, refreshingly potent, and easy-to-concoct libation that can be useful for entertaining, especially on a small scale.  You can even make this for yourself, though it might an indication of a problem rather than an incredible thirst. I can't judge.

The inspiration for this is a similar drink that is served in oversized Martini glasses at Paul Prudhomme’s K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen restaurant in the French Quarter in New Orleans.  Representative of south Louisiana, it features strangely named ingredients, it's piquant, and alcoholic, too.  This is also simple to make, can be inexpensive, and works well for get-togethers at home, or if you have a very big thirst.

Cajun Martini

Makes – More than a quart
 
Ingredients:
 
Dry Gin – 750 ml bottle, or Vodka – 750 ml bottle
Dry Vermouth – 2 tablespoons
Serrano Peppers, seeds removed and sliced - 4
Pickled Tomatoes – Optional; for garnish
Pickled Chayote (or Mirlitons in Louisiana) – Optional; for garnish

Mixing Steps:

  1. In the nearly full bottle of gin or vodka pour in the vermouth and the sliced peppers.  Re-seal the bottle.
  2. Store at least overnight in the refrigerator.

To Serve:

Pour into Martini glasses to serve straight up, or into lowball glasses over ice, and garnish with the pickled tomatoes or chayote, as you like.
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Penne alla Vodka...a Blast from the past that's easy to make at home

10/20/2016

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As much as I cook pasta at home, at times, I get in a rut and forgetful about some easy ones that don't require too much effort or even shopping.  Here is one that was once an Italian restaurant workhouse that I got reminded of via the silver screen, penne alla vodka.

Watching the very enjoyable 2007 film 
Zodiac for the first time, I caught a significant anachronism.  The character played by Chloë Sevigny orders “penne in a vodka sauce” at a dinner date in 1970 in San Francisco (seemingly at the Original Joe’s, meant to be in the Tenderloin).  That dish was likely not created until 1979. 
 
Patricia Wells in her Trattoria: Healthy, Simple, Robust Fare Inspired By the Small Family Restaurants of Italy published in 1993 – which has many terrific and relatively straightforward recipes, by the way – relates that Alla Vecchia Bettola, a trattoria in Florence that opened in 1979, created penne in vodka sauce featuring tomato and cream seemingly soon after opening.  This dish began to appear on menus in America in the 1980s.  Lidia Bastianich asserts otherwise.  She writes inLidia’s Italian-American, “I found myself making this innovative dish, which always charmed our customers, quite a bit in the early 1970s.”  I have not been able to find a menu prior to the 1980s that served pasta with a vodka sauce, so I don’t put any stock in Bastianich’s claim.
 
Coming from Florence is rather odd, especially for a restaurant like Alla Vecchia Bettola that currently touts “vecchio sapore toscano,” and is reputably popular with locals in its Oltrarno neighborhood. This preparation is hardly typically Tuscan, or very old.  A dish with both commercial pasta and tomatoes is unusual coming north of Rome.  Vodka is not Italian at all.  A Russian staple, its use might belie Communist sympathies, long fashionable among a large subset of northern gastronomes.  Creamy and tomato-y, it could have been created to appeal to American tourists who crowd Florence each year.
 
The Barefoot Contessa, Ina Garten, has even filmed an episode on her Food Network show making a version of penne in vodka sauce inspired by the eponymous one at the Alla Vecchia Bettola restaurant.  Here is a simpler version that still tastes very good.
 
Penne in Vodka Sauce
 
butter
onion, diced
garlic –  3 cloves, minced
red pepper flakes – 1 teaspoon
oregano, dried – ½ teaspoon
peeled tomatoes – 1 28-ounce can
vodka – 1 cup
heavy cream – 1 cup
penne – 1 pound
salt
black pepper
Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated
 
Cooking steps:

  1. Melt the butter in a large pan over medium heat, add the onions and cook for about 5 minutes.
  2. Add the garlic and cook for another 2 minutes.
  3. Add the tomatoes – crushing them in the pan – red pepper flakes, dried oregano, vodka and bring to a boil.  Reduce the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes.
  4. Cook the pasta in plenty of salted water.
  5. Place the tomato mixture in a blender and puree until the sauce is smooth.
  6. Add the cream and simmer for about 7 minutes.
  7. Add the drained pasta, toss well, add black pepper, and cook for another minute.
  8. Serve with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
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    Author

    Mike Riccetti is a longtime Houston-based food writer and former editor for Zagat, and not incidentally the author of three editions of Houston Dining on the Cheap.

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