With a new white wine on the menu, 13 Celsius now has undoubtedly the best-valued pair of house wines in the city. Last year, it began serving the Patina Due Gelsi Barbera d’Alba from the 2021 vintage. I’ve long been a fan of Barberas, and this is an easy one to enjoy. With some berry and cherry notes on the nose, the first sips are smooth, dry, with less immediate acidity that Barbera was once largely known for. It has a nice body, rich and with some tannins from the wood-aging but those are not prominent. It is easy wine to drink without food; the 15% alcohol is pleasantly obscured. Made by Guidobono, which makes several wines including a Barolo in the Langhe and Roero in Piedmont, exclusively for 13 Celsius under the Patina label and found nowhere else. This will readily appeal to most fans of Italian reds and it has also resonated with a big range of red wine drinkers at 13 Celsius.
Last month, it began serving Patina Blanc Petit Chablis 2022 that is made for the bar by the respected Domaine des Malandes, which also produces Premier and Grand Cru wines. This Chardonnay from northern Burgundy has notes of grapefruit and green apple and a quickly evident liveliness, though the acidity is maybe a little less than expected from a Chablis and a touch more roundness on the palate. This is a very easy wine to like, with a nice balance among its fruit, acidity and minerality. There certainly cannot be a better house white wine in town today. These are truly house wines, too. You’ll notice that the Barbera features a photo of the distressed tin tile ceiling at the bar that might not readily be noticed after the second glass. The Petit Chablis has an image of the wall of the courtyard. Both are $13, of course, for a full pour, and $7.50 for 3-ounce half pour.
13 Celsius
3000 Caroline (just north of Elgin), 77004, (713) 529-8466
13celsius.com
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